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Mupfel

Mupfel’s E11 Blaster Build (with Doopydoo’s Resin Kit + T-Jays Completion Kit + 3D Print Additions + Arduino Electronics)

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46 minutes ago, Mupfel said:

Thaniks man, yes, filling all the gaps and holes with green stuff is a very long and boring work! But you are right, at the end the look will be great.

... The power indicator bar will be put in the counter bar. ...

That's right, there's enough space there and it will look cool.

 

1 hour ago, Mupfel said:

... Today i was able to finish the scope and the electrics. Now, the LED is bright enough to be seen from a different angle than just the front.

Glad you have the LED the way you like it now ;)

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Omg, I just stumbled on this thread- SO flippin’ cool!!!! How many hours have you put into making this? Insane!

Can I have one???? Lol


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Now, when adding more and more parts, i am getting more and more excited :-) :-)

 

Don't want to know when i am at the painting stage :-)

 

Well, i stopped counting the hours that i have spent on the wholoe blaster, meanwhile. As on most on the builds here in the FISD, a lot of time is spent.

Thanks for your appreciation!

 

Thanks for the hint with the scope position as well, this is corrected now. Added some green stuff into the wrong holes and "basta" :-):

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After correcting the position of the scope, i read many other builds and the blaster reference again, to check and see, how and where the counter has its position.

Hope everything is right :-):

 

REBSZKd.jpg?1

 

Thanks for reading and commenting!

 

 

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The scope came out great. Love this build. Sorry I have not been commenting lately. Hope to catch up on this build in detail on my train ride tomorrow morning. Keep up the great work. 

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Positions of scope and counter are looking good, Marko. :duim:

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Thanks for your comments!

 

 

Today i started working on the blaster not with the Dremel, i thought about on how i can built the pieces together without adhesive. The goal is, if something of the elecronic breaks, that i can easily access it. So, i started with the magazine well…

It should contain the 2000mAh LiPo Accu, two magnets for the magazine and the main power switch for the electronics.

After drilling the main hole for the battery, the next step was  rasping down the level a bit, that a piece of wood can fit in, which holds the magnets and the switch.

 

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To have the possibility to reach the accu every time, the wodden piece is mounted with four screws.

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The magazine well itself is mounted with a screw as well.

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By the way, just got my new magazine from Imperial Warfighters from the UK. I need to put a lot of effort into it that it is usable. Can somebody of you guys please tell me on how the magazine need to look like on this side?

 

M9IvfVt.jpg?1

Edited by Mupfel

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3 hours ago, Mupfel said:

 

... Can somebody of you guys please tell me on how the magazine need to look like on this side?

 

M9IvfVt.jpg?1

 

This magazine you have is quite accurate and only needs some sanding to clean out some rough parts and to make some edges 90 degrees.  From the photo, in the middle part where you have the edges, make it 90 degrees where those two lines meet. It is this 90 degree edge that will sit against the edge of the magazine housing part. That wave like pattern on the inside is accurate - marvelous detail here.

 

See below for a picture to give you an idea about where to shorten it. You can use the yellow line as a guide. The dotted orange line shows where the edges of the magazine housing needs to be fairly close to.

 

28100157319_f848e24d40_z.jpg

 

Hopes this helps!

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On 10/17/2018 at 7:51 PM, Mupfel said:

tKarKlH.jpg?1

THIS is a crazy cool idea, Marko. Very nice.  :jc_doublethumbup:  May I just kindly suggest to use countersunk screws for this?! The power of the magnets is limited and you will need to bring them as close as you can. Otherwise you risk losing your magazine. If you do not have such screws, you could also drill 4 holes into the bottom corners of your magazine to make room for the current screw heads. No matter which way you go, just try to eliminate that air gap between the magnets in the magazine and the ones in the housing. :duim:

Edited by T-Jay
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@Dracotrooper, this helped a lot, thanks a bunch!

 

@T-Jay, i had the same thoughts as you. The problem here is, the wodden piece is very thin, so if i would use the screws you are recommending, it probably would break.

It already started to show cracks :-(...

I removed some material as you mentioned for the screws.

For the switch i need to do the same.

Probably i need to make this out of metal...

 

Got some progress again today, pictures to come in the eventide...

 

 

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Today i got back to the dovetail... it is no0w sitting so tight that no glue is needed... this also fits into my plan, that, once the blaster is finished, i should be able to remove all pieces without destroying anything, when i need to repair the electronics.

Unfortunately, i sew too deep at the dovetail, but meanwhile this can be repaired easily with green stuff :-).

 

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Thanks again to Dracotrooper, he helped me a lot with his posted picture!


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I decided to rearrange the magnets for the magazine, as the switch, which will be mounted soon, would not fit in with the old solution. Now it sits in between and works great.


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When the magazine was clipped in, i recognized how far the progress of the blaster is, meanwhile :-) :-)

 

24uVQqE.jpg?1

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Next step was cutting off the nozzle to get access to the inside of the barrel. I need to place the led stripe in there, but i am still thinking about how i can mount the led stripe in there.

 

Any thoughts of you guys?

 

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frvcWYO.jpg

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Heres one idea - perhaps use a clear acrylic tubing to house the LED strip? If so, the tubing cannot be larger than 2cm OD. Because it is clear, the lights can be clearly seen.

To increase the light effects inside the barrel when invoking the electronics, will apply a half inch outer diameter with 3 / 8 inch inner diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) over top the LED light. Frost it with 150 grit sandpaper.

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Thanks for your thought, i thought about this as well already, but i am afraid of a rattling noise inside the tube, from the led strip...




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Thanks for your thought, i thought about this as well already, but i am afraid of a rattling noise inside the tube, from the led strip...


Maybe celephane, thin clear plastic sheets krinkeled up inside the tube would hold the LED strip in place to keep it from hitting the tube? Now I'm out of ideas .... interested to see how you will go about this, wish you the best!

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After  7 hours, yes, i checked the time, of labeling, soldering and measuring, i am now able to do this forum update.

 

Thanks again to Darcotrooper, he provided the idea of a cristal tube for the barrel, to hold the led stripe. I spent some time in the hardware store and found something similar to the tube – a clear garden hose :-). This one is 2 cm in total (diameter).

Because of the screws and the parts that extend into the barrel, the hose gets squeezed in, so that I do not have to mount the hose or the led stripe. This solution is protecting the electronics from water as well :-).

 

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To program and load the battery of the blaster, a mini USB slot is needed. I decided to add the slot at the back of the blaster. I think it is a good place for it. Just check yourself…

 

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The speaker is placed in the end cap clip… because of the amplifier in the electronics, it is still loud enough that you can hear it from a distance.

 

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As a small overview about how many cabling and soldering needed to be done, you can check the following picture...

 

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Thanks for reading and commenting!

 

 

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Wonderful to see to you progressing. Glad to see you have a solution that works for you regarding the LED strip - nice that you will have it waterproof ... especially helpful when you get signed up to deploy in the rain or snow!

That rear charging port at the rear is genius - as for the speaker on the end cap, careful not the wear loose the speaker wires between charging....and if your speaker ever loses its wires, be ever so cautious if you attempt a repair or you may create a short circuit like I did, I killed my BlastFX that way when glue created a short circuit. Better replace speaker with fresh wires and solder wires if it ever comes to this.

Keep up the great work! Following with interest

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Thanks for the nice words man! This really helps me to get over the thing that just happened :-(.

I was soldering the power level leds when the soldering point from the leds decided to fall off. Obviously the soldering iron was hold too long against it.
The whole soldering needs to be done again and I need to order a new one.
For sure it is not as bad as what happened with the electronics from Dracotrooper, but still very annoying.

The upcoming week I need to ask my father in law to help me with the plate from the magazine housing. The one I created broke, as too many wholes needed to be cut in (screws, switch and magnets).
The next plate will be made out of Aluminium :-)




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That's sad news but glad you are getting help with other parts of the blaster to keep things moving along.

You'll be back on that component in no time, keep things steady, you'll get to the finish line.

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Guys,

 

a long period of silence from my end, unfortunately, but some things cannot wait and have more priority. I hope you guys had some nice holidays!?

Nevertheless i now had some time to spend some time on my E11 again.

 

The last step, I was stuck was the small wooden plate which holds the magnets for the magazine.

Now, i created a piece of aluminum which will not bend, although it has to hold the two magnets, the electrical switch and the four screws.

AbJRXzg.jpg

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During the time of absence i did some investigation on the German and US customs... i finally was able to import an original folding stock from the US which will be attached as soon as possible.

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Furthermore, the warfighter magazine got some corrections...

3yLUCOb.jpg

 

Thanks in advance for reading and commenting !

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This looks SO complicated. Good for you to have the mental capacity to do this type of build. Nice work!


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Having a terrific holiday, thanks. Great build progress...nice custom work, very neat.

Real working folding stock, nice! Think there's been nearly 1/2 dozen TKs that have installed it on resin, very doable.

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Great to have you back, Marko. Seems like the current holidays allow some troopers to spend time on the work bench again (including me :D).

Congrats on getting that original folding stock, though having spent so much work to hollow out the resin version. But hey, you can keep that for your next build... ;)

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Thanks, It looks like, yes :-) :-)...

 

 

Believe me, there will be no additional build ;-)...

 

Having enough work with maintaining the TK parts ;-)...

 

 

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10 hours ago, Mupfel said:

Thanks, It looks like, yes :-) :-)...

 

 

Believe me, there will be no additional build ;-)...

 

Having enough work with maintaining the TK parts ;-)...

 

 

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What a pity there will not be another build, you are so talented at it!

Can't wait to see what your E11 will look like when finished.

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