First Build: ANOVOS ANH TK Build Thread

[Erice3339[TK]]

27 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

Some like the twinkee teeth look and others go with more of a sharp look.  Go with what you want to do.  Either is acceptable

 

1 hour ago, Commander Gree said:

Actually i believe it is. The teeth need to be cut as shown, and the gray paint cant go to the top, it should never leave the teeth

 

So, unless I am misunderstanding something (and I probably am), I’m still not sure whether I need to correct the rounded edges for Centurion or not.

 

I know about the common overspray issue that Gree has mentioned and have already corrected that. I’m working with toothpicks to gently scratch away any paint that invades the top, white part of the “mouth.” 

 

Here it is repainted after the filing (for now): 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for all of your feedback everyone! I really appreciate it. As was mentioned by another user, I couldn’t find anything in the CRL’s about the curved teeth edges. 

[Erice3339[TK]]

 

 

 

While I’m online, here are some more pictures of limb assemblies I have made and am waiting to dry to do the opposite side. If you see any incorrect alignments, confiurations, cuts, etc., please let me know!

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

8 minutes ago, Erice3339 said:

As was mentioned by another user, I couldn’t find anything in the CRL’s about the curved teeth edges

The paint will be more of the issue than shape.  It's up to you how you like it.  I went with the twinkee teeth as that's what I liked.

[Erice3339[TK]]

2 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

The paint will be more of the issue than shape.  It's up to you how you like it.  I went with the twinkee teeth as that's what I liked.

Understood, is there any paint that you see that I need to remove? Unlike correcting the teeth, doing so is pretty simple. 

[magni[TK]]

Agreed. To me there's to much flash on the Anovos bucket. IMHO

The choice is yours. I know the public gaze right to the helmet. I opted for the cleaner squared look. Cause, well it's cleaner.

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[magni[TK]]

The paint in the photos looks good know. They end nicely on top and bottom and don't leave frown area. Good scraping.

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[Erice3339[TK]]

I don’t blame you. I’ve been using that file set you recommended. It’s a good buy. Slow but steady progress.

 

I agree with you on your preference. If only I had known better before I started painting... would have filed the edges down then. 

 

Thanks, like I said, using toothpicks. Glad to hear I might be doing something right there. 

[Commander Gree[501st]]

39 minutes ago, Erice3339 said:

 

 

So, unless I am misunderstanding something (and I probably am), I’m still not sure whether I need to correct the rounded edges for Centurion or not.

 

I know about the common overspray issue that Gree has mentioned and have already corrected that. I’m working with toothpicks to gently scratch away any paint that invades the top, white part of the “mouth.” 

 

Here it is repainted after the filing (for now): 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for all of your feedback everyone! I really appreciate it. As was mentioned by another user, I couldn’t find anything in the CRL’s about the curved teeth edges. 

Its not going to be specifically in the CRL. but i will tell you the paint between the teeth needs to be removed (you may have done that already and not posted pics) and i believe the Teeth need more squared corners, Again might not be in the CRL, but can be requested by the DOs. You build it the way that you like, then submit the photos, and see where it goes. honestly the things im talking about can be fixed now, or if they pass then you good, or if they request to be fixed at submission, its the same amount of work. There are more important things that would take so much more work later on, but this isnt one of them (overlap to butt joint contruction being one of them). I honestly wouldnt stress too much about it, just get your kit completely built to the CRL (Blue) and then submit photos. one step at a time and we will get you there, promise we wont let you fail.

[Erice3339[TK]]

35 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

There are more important things that would take so much more work later on, but this isnt one of them (overlap to butt joint contruction being one of them). I honestly wouldnt stress too much about it, just get your kit completely built to the CRL (Blue) and then submit photos. one step at a time and we will get you there, promise we wont let you fail.

Thanks for the encouragement; I’ll get right on removing the paint between the teeth. I have to wait for parts to dry for 24 hours anyways. 

 

As you pointed out, I’ve already faced some of the bigger issues, especially plastic wanting to overlap. 

 

Paint removal, fortunately, is not all that difficult for me to do. 

Edited August 5, 2018 by Erice3339

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hiya,

Armour is coming on nicely. :-)

Personally, I’d be tempted to remove any paint from between the teeth (or refine the shape as mentioned previously). It’s looking a little paint-heavy at the moment.

Below is where I’d remove the paint.



Best wishes
Dan

[Erice3339[TK]]

On 8/6/2018 at 3:07 AM, CableGuy said:

Hiya,

Armour is coming on nicely. :-)

Personally, I’d be tempted to remove any paint from between the teeth (or refine the shape as mentioned previously). It’s looking a little paint-heavy at the moment.

Below is where I’d remove the paint.



Best wishes
Dan

Hey Dan,

 

Appreciate the suggestion. I’ve since removed most of the paint. Let me know what you think:

 

 

 

 

 

[Erice3339[TK]]

Also, relative to other users here, I’ve not been using my build thread as much. Apologies for not keeping you guys up-to-date and posting regularly.

 

Fortunately, using Tony’s build thread, I’ve not had many pressing issues. In fact, if anyone is willing to offer some advice, the only two I’ve encountered (thus far) are as follows: 

 

1) I did my best to align the belt exactly as seen in the Uswrath build thread; however, as pictured below, my belt is positioned slightly (?) too far to the right. In short, will this be an issue in achieving Centurion? 

 

 

 

 

 

2) Now, this mistake is maybe more noticeable and equally more embarrasing to admit. It was a very stupid mistake. A portion of my ab plate was splashed with 100% acetone while I was cleaning paintbrushes nearby. What’s worse is that it came directly from the bottle (i.e. it wasn’t a small amount).

 

I’ve done my best to sand down the damage and paint over it with Humbrol gloss white paint. Fortunately for me, most of the damage is hidden by the belt. Let me know if anything else can be done:

 

Edited August 9, 2018 by Erice3339

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hey Dan,
 
Appreciate the suggestion. I’ve since removed most of the paint. Let me know what you think:
 

 

 

 
 

Great job - that looks much neater.

[Novak Dimon[TK]]

Hi Dan,

great work with the frown. Looking great now! 

 

About your Acetone accident: if the main part of the damage is hidden by the belt it is not that bad. 

Did you try to polish the area to make it shine again? 

Might look better than painting. 

 

Cheers

Christian

[Commander Gree[501st]]

10 hours ago, Erice3339 said:

Hey Dan,

 

Appreciate the suggestion. I’ve since removed most of the paint. Let me know what you think:

 

 

 

 

 

 

9 hours ago, Erice3339 said:

Also, relative to other users here, I’ve not been using my build thread as much. Apologies for not keeping you guys up-to-date and posting regularly.

 

Fortunately, using Tony’s build thread, I’ve not had many pressing issues. In fact, if anyone is willing to offer some advice, the only two I’ve encountered (thus far) are as follows: 

 

1) I did my best to align the belt exactly as seen in the Uswrath build thread; however, as pictured below, my belt is positioned slightly (?) too far to the right. In short, will this be an issue in achieving Centurion? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Couple of things, some questions.

 

First, great job on the frown, now if I may add, paint the tips of the hovi mics white. this is to show "weathering" and is screen accurate.

 

next is your ab section. it looks twisted. if you notice on your cod piece there is a ridge that runs from the bottom to under the belt, and then appears again on the top side of your ab button plate. that doesn't line up. did you separate you cod from your abs, or is it just warped??

[TheSwede[TK]]

17 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

next is your ab section. it looks twisted. if you notice on your cod piece there is a ridge that runs from the bottom to under the belt, and then appears again on the top side of your ab button plate. that doesn't line up. did you separate you cod from your abs, or is it just warped??

Nor shouldn`t they, it`s a feature of the original armor 

10 hours ago, Erice3339 said:

In short, will this be an issue in achieving Centurion?

I can`t see that it would be an issue so my advise would be to leave it for now, just be sure to have those drop boxes aligned with the end of the plastic part of the belt as that is a Centurion requirement

[Commander Gree[501st]]

2 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Nor shouldn`t they, it`s a feature of the original armor 

I

 

Huh. mine doesn't do that. In fact this is the first set of armor I have seen (or noticed at least) with that. I need to go back and look at others lol. thanks for the heads up.

[TheSwede[TK]]

3 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

Huh. mine doesn't do that. In fact this is the first set of armor I have seen (or noticed at least) with that. I need to go back and look at others lol. thanks for the heads up.

Yeah it`s screen accurate so ANOVOS has it and RS and TM as far as I know for sure but i know that some makers has made them line up.

[Commander Gree[501st]]

3 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Yeah it`s screen accurate so ANOVOS has it and RS and TM as far as I know for sure but i know that some makers has made them line up.

yeah, I just looked at some build threads and they are all over the place. I guess esthetically they look great lined up, but when a project is rushed as in the films, it makes sense. 

[Erice3339[TK]]

3 hours ago, Commander Gree said:

now if I may add, paint the tips of the hovi mics white. this is to show "weathering" and is screen accurate.

Thanks, didn’t catch that. I’ll do it later today.

 

3 hours ago, Commander Gree said:

next is your ab section. it looks twisted

Yes, that threw me for a loop too. I agree that it looks better aligned, but, as Daniel pointed out, it’s accurate.

 

2 hours ago, TheSwede said:

just be sure to have those drop boxes aligned with the end of the plastic part of the belt

They seem to line up when I put the belt on. The nuisance is that, because my belt is a little too far to the armor’s left, it seems like the boxes do not fall where it’d be accurate.

 

It’s close, just not exact. I probably won’t shift the belt by installing more snaps unless absolutely necessary for Centurion; I did not see anything in the CRL’s about it. I will post pictures later once my strapping system on the ab piece finishes drying. 

[TheSwede[TK]]

1 hour ago, Erice3339 said:

They seem to line up when I put the belt on. The nuisance is that, because my belt is a little too far to the armor’s left, it seems like the boxes do not fall where it’d be accurate.

As long as they are aligned with the ends then it’s accurate, your plastic belt is not that far to the left that it should be a problem 

Edited August 9, 2018 by TheSwede

[Erice3339[TK]]

Good to know; thank you again

[Erice3339[TK]]

7 hours ago, Novak Dimon said:

Hi Dan,

great work with the frown. Looking great now! 

 

About your Acetone accident: if the main part of the damage is hidden by the belt it is not that bad. 

Did you try to polish the area to make it shine again? 

Might look better than painting. 

 

Cheers

Christian

Thanks for the reply Christian; sorry I did not reply sooner (hadn't seen it). 

 

I would definitely like to polish, but I simply do not know what kind of polish to use for ABS plastic. I've been looking into it. Do you reckon that I would have to remove the paint if I were to polish or could I leave what I have on and still polish? Also, if you have any brand suggestions or home remedies, I'd really appreciate it. 

Edited August 9, 2018 by Erice3339

[wook1138[TK]]

11 minutes ago, Erice3339 said:

Thanks for the reply Christian; sorry I did not reply sooner (hadn't seen it). 

 

I would definitely like to polish, but I simply do not know what kind of polish to use for ABS plastic. I've been looking into it. Do you reckon that I would have to remove the paint if I were to polish or could I leave what I have on and still polish? Also, if you have any brand suggestions or home remedies, I'd really appreciate it. 

Hi Eric, for polishing I use a product called Novus plastic polish.  There are 3 levels (1, 2, and 3).  Level 1 is just a cleaner, but level 2 and 3 will remove scratches (2 for very fine scratches and 3 for slightly coarser scratches).  Depending on the surface (how rough it is), you may have to wet-sand it down with wet/dry sandpaper or polishing clothes (usually found at hardware stores in the automotive section).  I didn't go back to see your previous posts, but you should be able to just polish or sand over the paint if need be.  Hope this helps. 

[Novak Dimon[TK]]

If you start polishing the ABS, the paint will come off naturally. 

 

You can use Novus 123 polish. It is well known here for great results. 

You get three bottles with polishing Fluid to go from rough to   mirror like shine. 

 

Oh, I didn’t type quick enough. 

Edited August 9, 2018 by Novak Dimon