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Anovos TK Stunt build... Also building my Bucket


CraigH

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So, starting a thread for my TK build. I have a ton of questions, and hope I will find my answers here! Questions and some pics coming soon! Glad I'm here! Here are some pics so far....

Kit unboxed and ready to build...

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Both arms mostly finished...

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Glued...

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Screws painted black...

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First thing I have finished... I think...

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Let's work on the bucket for a bit...

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Progress...

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Edited by CraigH
Adding pics
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Always great to see a new build, Craig!  Just take your time, ask as many questions as you need and keep the photos coming.  One suggestion is to ditch the canvas belt that comes with the Anovos kit (they are really  flimsy) and upgrade to something a lot thicker that is reinforced.  I recommend getting one of Rob's (Tkittell), which are custom made to order for your size and super heavy duty:  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/

If you are aiming for higher screen accuracy, you should consider the EI and Centurion levels, which are much easier to do during your build rather than after.  Here is a bit more info. on those:  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

I have a few quick tutorials located under my signature below that may help as well.

 

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Craig, I think the PDF of instructions I sent you (written by @ukswrath) includes the details for EIB and Centurion builds.  the only thing really holding the Anovos kit back from the upper levels is the belt and the two extra screws holding the holster in place.  As Joe suggested, an upgrade to a Kittel belt will pretty much solve both problems while adding the problem of removing the plastic parts from the Anovos belt.   I've been dragging my feet on putting my new belt into service, once you are ready perhaps we schedule a day and do them together. 

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3 hours ago, ShadyP said:

Craig, I think the PDF of instructions I sent you (written by @ukswrath) includes the details for EIB and Centurion builds.  the only thing really holding the Anovos kit back from the upper levels is the belt and the two extra screws holding the holster in place.  As Joe suggested, an upgrade to a Kittel belt will pretty much solve both problems while adding the problem of removing the plastic parts from the Anovos belt.   I've been dragging my feet on putting my new belt into service, once you are ready perhaps we schedule a day and do them together. 

Cool.. I think I'm going to order one. I stopped by Andrew's house today with my kit and he thinks I'm on point so far..  also, also gave me some great pointers. But yeah when I get the belt in hand... I would be down! 

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So do I paint the screws on the ears? If so, what color white model paint is best?LYiyQkK.jpg

I'm guessing this gap is exceptable 

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And this..

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My buddy Adin helping with a test fit.. 

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Will be cleaning g this up...

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Yes the screws are painted, I used a standard white paint.

 

Ear gaps are acceptable, as seen in a lot of screen images.

 

 

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Looking sharp, Craig!  You can trim that back as seen below in red.  I would (carefully) use a Dremel tool with the sanding drum attachment, but take off a bit at a time until you are comfortable with the shape.

You should also consider changing out the bottom ear screws (in blue) to the flat head style used in the top part, especially if you are aiming for the higher levels.  If you are missing these, let me know via PM and I will mail you a few no charge.

 

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As mentioned by the fine gentleman above me, I will just be repeating what they said.. so.. ^what they said lol. 

 

But you are looking like you made some great progress. keep it up!

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Did some more painting ( I know the black is rounded on the edges but I'm a first timer and they came out square. I guess I'll fix that down the road. But anyway getting really close on the bucket. Out of state for my littles cheer competition this weekend but I think its time to put the bucket down and work on the legs when I get back... Here are some pics of my bucket. Getting Close!!

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And this is where I will stop and work on the legs next week...

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 Looking great Craig, if I may add, the ear rank bar outer pinstripe should be rounded on the corners. Squared is not a deal breaker but since you're repainting might as well make it look as correct as possible.

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On 4/29/2018 at 9:47 PM, ukswrath said:

 Looking great Craig, if I may add, the ear rank bar outer pinstripe should be rounded on the corners. Squared is not a deal breaker but since you're repainting might as well make it look as correct as possible.

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Yeah I mentioned that in the thread... I may touch it up with white or something to get them rounded.

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Question of the day... I'm a bigger dude, but I have always been thick around the shoulders and neck.... I'm not to this point yet, but letting the shoulder straps free float may not be an option.. I may have to glue to get the front and back to stay in place as they will be so far apart... If I glue will it still be 501 approvable?

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6 hours ago, CraigH said:

If I glue will it still be 501 approvable?

Yes it is and up to Expert Infantry (CRL below) if you choose to go for Centurion they need to float in the back so I say wait before you glue it, you might not need to. The chest and back is connected using an elastic or fabric (canvas is popular) strap and by using the latter in combination with the Centurion required white elastic it should hold those bridges in place :)

 

Shoulder Straps
  • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
  • The rear tab of the shoulder strap is optional and may or may not be present.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • No visible rivets are allowed.
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • These shall free float in back.
  • These shall be glued in front.
  • The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.
  • Chest Armor
    • Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.

     

    OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
    OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
    • Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

     

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13 hours ago, CraigH said:

Question of the day... I'm a bigger dude, but I have always been thick around the shoulders and neck.... I'm not to this point yet, but letting the shoulder straps free float may not be an option.. I may have to glue to get the front and back to stay in place as they will be so far apart... If I glue will it still be 501 approvable?

An important note regarding this, the front shoulder straps are permanently attached, if you do the same to the rear (I'm assuming you're talking about permanently attaching them to the back plate) in all likelihood you won't be able to get your head between the armor shoulder straps. As Daniel mentioned the centurion elastic should hold them in place.   

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7 minutes ago, CraigH said:

I'm a newbie... Must have got the wrong page!!

Happens all the time, no worries. Keep up the good work, you;re doing great

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Back at it again this week... Last cheer comp of the season this weekend but have a little time to work on shins and thighs... Glued a strip to the inside of the shins for more support.... Got the front of my right thigh glued, and my buddy Adin takes another test drive of my bucket!

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Right Thigh glued...

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Adin at it again...

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