Jump to content
SolidScrafty

CRL for Force Unleashed Stormtrooper

Recommended Posts

Description: Stormtrooper: The Force Unleashed
Prefix: TK
Detachment: 
First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment 
Context: The Force Unleashed

 

Helmet

  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are grey.
  • Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
  • The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
  • Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar.
  • Frown is painted grey and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
  • Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
  • Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
  • Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • Helmet and details/paint is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references.

Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. 

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
  • Ear bars have four bumps only, not three.
  • Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
  • Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.

 

 

Neck Seal

  • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. 

 

Undersuit

  • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. 

 

 

Shoulder Straps

  • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back.
  • Shoulder straps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). 

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • No visible rivets are allowed.
  • Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).

 

 

Shoulder Armor

  • One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.
  • Shoulder bells are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Shoulder bells are rounded at the corners.
  • No shoulder bell straps across the biceps.

 

 

Upper Arm Armor

  • Biceps are fully closed.
  • Biceps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • No shoulder bell straps across the biceps.

 

 

Forearm Armor

  • Forearms are fully closed.
  • Forearms are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

 

 

Gloves

  • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Gloves shall be rubber or rubber like chemical gloves in black.

 

 

Hand Plates

  • Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
  • Hand plates are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): 

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves.

 

 

Chest Armor

  • Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. 
  • Chest armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Fabric or elastic strip connecting chest to back shall be either black or not present.
  • AM chest plate is replaced with a more screen accurate version.

 

 

Back Armor

  • Back plate contains a "O II" design.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. 
  • The back plate is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.
  • AM back plate is replaced with a more screen accurate version.

 

 

Abdomen Armor

  • Ab plate buttons shall be all black.
  • Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. 
  • Ab plate is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate.
  • The left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons (fifth button must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate).
  • All buttons on the ab plate are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons. 
  • There are 2 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter which are lined up with the ones on the kidney. The top rivet is 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white (measurements are approximate).

 

 

Kidney & Posterior Armor

  • A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.
  • The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. 
  • Kidney/Posterior Armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • The edges of the hip area are rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB posterior armor).


OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The kidney and posterior shall both be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners).
  • There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab.
  • There are 2 rivets on either side of the kidney, these are lined up with the ones on the ab, the top rivet is roughly 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white.

 

 

Belt

  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white.
  • The drop boxes are white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt.
  • The belt may be longer than standard ANH/ROTJ with square buttons positioned close to the end of the belt. 
  • The belt material is lightly aged (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
  • Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Leather and vinyl are not accurate.
  • There are two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.
  • The center square button is not accurate.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.
  • Drop boxes are closed in the back.
  • The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets form a rectangular pattern) and are painted white.

 

Thermal Detonator

  • (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt.
  • Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.
  • The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end.
  • The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.
  • The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).
  • The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. 
  • The thermal detonator is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The thermal detonator control panel has correct ROTJ details, or the "game style" version.
  • The ANH/ESB style is not allowed.

 

 

 

Thigh Armor

  • Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
  • The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
  • Thighs are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references and is not rounded off like ANH.
  • The thigh ammo is glued and has no rivets.

 

 

Lower Leg Armor

  • Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
  • The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg.

- Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on whitearmor.net

  • Greaves are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The sniper knee plate is glued and has no rivets.

 

 

Boots

  • Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
  • Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle.
  • Flat sole with a short heel.
  • No buckles or laces.
  • Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
  • Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
  • Boots are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • There is no seam present on the front of the boot.

 

Optional Accessories

 

E-11 Blaster (ESB)

  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. 

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Folding stock is placed in the closed position.
  • No ammo counter shall be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.
  • The M-19 scope is preferred.
  • No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
  • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
  • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.

This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

 

 

 

E-11 Blaster (ROTJ)

  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. 

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Folding stock is placed in the closed position.
  • No ammo counter shall be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Correct style scope.
  • No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
  • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel shall be covered).
  • If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, you shall grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all).
  • Correct greeblies on the left rear area shall be present (door catch and two "hammers").

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Folding stock shall be in the extended position.
  • Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

 

 

 

Lightsaber (The Force Unleashed)

  • The hilt is Graflex style or has the characteristics of the Graflex, (reference Luke Skywalker's lightsaber from ANH and ESB).
  • If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow.

Note: Double blades, small Yoda style lightsaber, or inexpensive non-FX Hasbro Lightsaber toys are not allowed. 

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The hilt shall be made to reference Starkiller's lightsaber (as seen in The Force Unleashed).
  • If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow.

 

Edited by SolidScrafty

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, it's been discussed.  To get the CRL though, someone has to be willing to do the costume and submit it to the LMOs.  Basically it's an unpainted TKC/ICN.

 

You could be the first, Mike :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Other things that I noticed:

- The sniper knee is pointed at the top, instead of flat

- The calf armor is pointed the the top of the front, instead of flat

- It doesn't look as though the legs use cover strips. They either look overlapped or just joined together.

- The boots look like they either have two seems (one on inside and one on outside) or just one on the outside instead of centered like on normal TK boots.

- The butt plate doesn't go all the way down and connect with the cod piece

- The ammo pack on the thigh is not connected to the bottom ridge

- The thermal detonator is smooth

- There is no raised oval-ish shape to the left of the center ab plate

- There is only one drop box on the belt, it is perpendicular to the front, and it have some slack instead of being tight like a normal TK

- The helmet is one piece (besides the ears)

-The ears do not flare or get bigger at the bottom

- The five buttons on the ab are higher then usual

- The II in the OII on the back plate are not raised like a normal TK, rather they are two seperate blocks oj their own

- The lenses look flat and not bubbled

- Finally, there aren't any thumb indents on the biceps

 

(Also, it is hard to tell, but because of the shadows on the forearm piece, I believe that the wrist has return edge and the shoulders do not have return edge, unlike on a standard TK)

Edited by PhilBobTheFish

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First post edited. I copied and pasted the text from the TK Commander, and removed all references to the blue markings. Another change I made was to make weathering a basic requirement for approval. I strongly believe that if one is to build this costume, it should be made to be recognizable as the trooper from the game. That will help this costume to stand out from the other basic white TKs. 

I also decided not to include the holster as an optional accessory... because this trooper doesn't have one! And neither do the other TFU troopers, for that matter. I would suggest those CRLs be edited to remove the holster. That shouldn't stop people from adding one in later for trooping purposes - I just don't believe they should be present on the costume during the application process.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used these references for my build.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18339-high-resolution-kashyyyk-stormtrooper-images-35-images/

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18651-proposed-requirements-for-the-phase-stormtrooper/

 

gu3ETEV.jpg

 

The weathering and paint chips are in the same spots on every variant of TFU armor, so I used whatever reference I found which had the highest resolution - in this case it was the prologue Kashyyyk TK. The only difference between the KTK and the regular TFU TK is the helmet.

 

I also want to make sure we don't call it the "Phase III Stormtrooper".... that's an unofficial name coined by one of the forum members here. Lol 

Edited by SolidScrafty

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The question on my mind is how heavily we should weight the models vs game play. It would be my preference to use as much game play as possible.

 

I downloaded this youtube video and tool some screen shots in final cut. Hopefully I got the right video game :icon_eek:

 

 

Ear paint evident. 

Screen Shot 2019-05-14 at 6.34.19 AM.png

 

Flat thermal det panel for upper level?

Also evidence of slight weathering and scuff marks.

Screen Shot 2019-05-14 at 6.35.17 AM.png

 

More ear paint.

Screen Shot 2019-05-14 at 6.35.33 AM.png

 

 

Square thigh pack. 

Screen Shot 2019-05-14 at 6.35.54 AM.png

 

Scuffing/weathering.

Screen Shot 2019-05-14 at 6.35.59 AM.png

 

I'm open to this costume being heavily weathered but I'm not sure it looks as grimy in the game.

 

Does anyone have a clue about the provenance of the model views? I really don't know how that stuff works. 

 

-Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, that's the right game. The models are directly extracted from the game's files. The amount of weathering on the models is what was intended to be in game... although it's sometimes hard to see in game play because of the lighting and environment. 

 

I booted up my Xbox and took these pictures of my TV screen. On Felucia, in certain lighting, it's easier to see that this costume is actually pretty dirty. 

 

Y98HhP5.jpg

 

2YRbqDx.jpg

 

AIrB3QN.jpg

 

H4Ro8Qe.jpg

 

tiO9IQ0.jpg

 

EqOXUxS.jpg

 

Darth Aloha is right about the black stripe on the ear. Since it's seen in game, it ought to be seen on the real life costume. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went ahead and added the ear stripes on our helmet.

 

AmxUKw9.png

 

Taking the rest of the CRL photos now! Everything should be ready to go at some point tomorrow after we get home in the evening. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, SolidScrafty said:

Yeah, that's the right game. The models are directly extracted from the game's files. The amount of weathering on the models is what was intended to be in game... although it's sometimes hard to see in game play because of the lighting and environment. 

 

I booted up my Xbox and took these pictures of my TV screen. On Felucia, in certain lighting, it's easier to see that this costume is actually pretty dirty. 

 

 

Darth Aloha is right about the black stripe on the ear. Since it's seen in game, it ought to be seen on the real life costume. 

Thanks Mike. That's really helpful. I'm sort of a dummy when it comes to video games. It looks like you're right on track weathering wise.

 

Please make sure your photos are as high resolution as possible for each view of the parts. 

 

-Eric

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also keep in mind that there's often texture compression in the game.  What might be visible on an XBox vs a PC at "maximum" graphics could be very different.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

CRL and application photos have been taken. Submitting to the LMO team now. I will be linking this thread along with the others I used for reference. :)

Also, I don't remember if I mentioned this before, but this costume isn't for me. My partner, Holley, will be wearing and trooping this costume. 

Edited by SolidScrafty
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CRL and application photos have been taken. Submitting to the LMO team now. I will be linking this thread along with the others I used for reference. 


Mike,

I suggest posting the CRL photos here for LMO and detachment review. It’d be a lot easier than email for both parties to see them at once.

-Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Darth Aloha said:

 


Mike,

I suggest posting the CRL photos here for LMO and detachment review. It’d be a lot easier than email for both parties to see them at once.

-Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Can do. I haven't sent anything yet - the stuff is still uploading to my imgur.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Helmet:

 

HiuPaMp.jpg

friic2X.jpg

hIWqzkg.jpg

SMc9q8y.jpg

 

Neckseal, Undersuit, Gloves

(borrow from ANH Stunt TK)

 

Shoulder straps:

 

Str9jSx.jpg

 

Shoulder armor:

 

YxoSoO3.jpg

r3ZRlmR.jpg

 

Upper arm armor:

 

goRSi2V.jpg

0z3JcUP.jpg

 

Forearm armor:

 

AsAzjj9.jpg

NSEjdCS.jpg

 

Hand plates:

 

hkN5uM7.jpg

 

Chest armor:

 

DWQpAbp.jpg

XTZ3Nwg.jpg

 

Back armor:

 

hVifprR.jpg

 

Abdomen armor:

 

w5MGAqU.jpg

D0aV1C9.jpg

 

Kidney & posterior armor:

 

0LQ9vV9.jpg

 

Belt:

 

LDtBrZp.jpg

 

Thermal detonator:

 

mRjw2yU.jpg

 

Thigh armor:

 

pKjijlQ.jpg

liXa4l8.jpg

etbg9F7.jpg

 

Lower leg armor:

 

4FLpDGP.jpg

UIgs2qA.jpg

 

Boots:

 

3cuUXMf.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Front:

 

zZGno7k.jpg

 

Right side:

 

jnt4uu0.jpg

 

Right side, arm raised:

 

M8JzZ3I.jpg

 

Left side:

 

jtiML9f.jpg

 

Left side, arm raised:

 

AvxYHDn.jpg

 

Back:

 

7Y1kcO7.jpg

 

Action shots:

 

l1AcVmK.jpg

Paikylc.jpg

 

Helmet off:

 

DXOVIjD.jpg

 

Profile:

 

ZC5qkWn.jpg

 

Misc. detail photos:

 

3msCntU.jpg

F30XeBn.jpg

5Q8ny4H.jpg

 

Hopefully I didn't forget anything!

Edited by SolidScrafty
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike. The photos look good enough to me even if some bits are out focus here and there.  

 

The cover strip on the one thigh goes over the ridge. I'm ok with it but I'll leave that, and a no/no go on rest of the photos, up to Sarah and team. 

 

Below is a wee test. I was a little worried that they'd be too dark but after a little bit of fiddling they're easy enough to brighten up. Someone with better photoshop skills will be able to deal with the red color bleed through hue onto the white parts. 

 

I suggest  this costume be called The Force Unleashed Stormtrooper in the CRL. 

 

Once FISD is happy and the CRL is green we'll tell your (our) GML to approve you. 

 

-Eric

 

AsAzjj9 (1).jpg

 

hIWqzkg.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites




 
Once FISD is happy and the CRL is green we'll tell your (our) GML to approve you. 
 
-Eric
 
[url


Sounds good! If we need to trim down and reattach the cover strip, we can.
If this costume is good for approval, make sure the GMLs give it to Holley Barker and not me, as she is the one wearing the kit. I'll PM you with her email address and 501NEG screen name.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, SolidScrafty said:


 

 


Sounds good! If we need to trim down and reattach the cover strip, we can.
If this costume is good for approval, make sure the GMLs give it to Holley Barker and not me, as she is the one wearing the kit. I'll PM you with her email address and 501NEG screen name.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

 

Right. Duh me. I'll go make myself another cup of coffee ASAP. When the CRL is complete and green she'll need to fill out the application for membership so she's in the database. Then the LMOses will work with the GMLses to get her approved. 

 

The trimming of cover strips is totally up to FISD. 

 

Another note: The CRL text in the first post probably needs mention of the squared of thigh pack if FISD wants to make that a L1 requirement.

 

-Eric

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If FISD doesn't want to Mike to make any changes to the costume.... here is a link to dropbox with the modified photos for photoshopping. The photos plus a zip have been uploaded.

 

-Eric

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Holley and I got back from our first professional photoshoot with the new costume. All we have (for now) are the low-res JPEGs, but we'll get the hi-res versions later on for whichever photos we pick out. Photo credit goes to Avalon Photo: https://www.instagram.com/avalonphotonh/

 

A few highlights from the shoot:

EdJ35Uw.jpg

 

1wLTAK3.jpg

 

Tw3kmKD.jpg

 

Inh9dOh.jpg

 

oqp1x9c.jpg

 

wB6J5jw.jpg

 

WbKk643.jpg

 

re5gzrY.jpg

 

CQY6hky.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/19/2019 at 2:09 AM, SolidScrafty said:

Sounds good! If we need to trim down and reattach the cover strip, we can.
If this costume is good for approval, make sure the GMLs give it to Holley Barker and not me, as she is the one wearing the kit. I'll PM you with her email address and 501NEG screen name.
 

 

 

Hey Mike, working through the CRL chanegs/draft and trimming down the pics!  Do you have a reference photo showing the thigh on that side?  I looked in the video and couldn't see a clear enough shot to see if the cover strip is visible at all and if so where it ends.  

 

I'd rather we not blindly mimic the ANH one here.  Any chance you have a reference shot that can determine if it needs to be shortened down?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seems kind of repetitive to mention weathering in every section - can you just say all armor pieces, belt, and boots are scuffed/dirty etc?

 

Also this photo pretty clearly shows Hero-style 4 rivets on the belt. Maybe a higher level approval item?

 

H4Ro8Qe.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, shashachu said:

Seems kind of repetitive to mention weathering in every section - can you just say all armor pieces, belt, and boots are scuffed/dirty etc?

  

 

 

It is a little goofy but it is consistent with the weathering wording in the requirements for the TKC and INC.

 

-Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Alay said:

 

Hey Mike, working through the CRL chanegs/draft and trimming down the pics!  Do you have a reference photo showing the thigh on that side?  I looked in the video and couldn't see a clear enough shot to see if the cover strip is visible at all and if so where it ends.  

 

I'd rather we not blindly mimic the ANH one here.  Any chance you have a reference shot that can determine if it needs to be shortened down?

Yes, it does look like we need to adjust our cover strip. Here's the best shot of the bottom of that thigh that I could find. It's dang near impossible to look at that detail in game because you can't tilt the camera at the right angle to view it. 

5-1.png

 

We'll get you a new shot of that armor piece and of Holley wearing the kit with the adjustment made sometime within the next day or two. :duim:

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...