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Wompet's ANH-Stunt ... Rebuild (AM)


Wompet
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This was originally going to be an Anovos kit, but ... well, Anovos. ;)

So a few weeks ago I bought TheLoneRanger's partially assembled kit

and now I'm working through what I need to do.

So, some pictures:

No Big Brown Box, but I got a Big Black Bin :D

NxbWByX.jpg

 

Starting with the helmet, I'll need to:

  • remove the black paint on the teeth and repaint them gray
  • paint the rank bars on the ears
  • try and fix the gaps on the bottom of the ear caps
  • get the correct screws for the ear caps
  • remove the stickers and hand-paint the tears, traps, and tube stripes (I'm aiming for Centurion)
  • replace the hovi-tips with Ukswrath's hovi-speakers
  • install the s-trim

hAqiTeB.jpg

mmivnCl.jpg

 

The kit:

LKognxp.jpg

 

I'll skip any more pictures for now, but the short list is I need to:

  • re-do the strapping (need to get some brackets possibly)
  • remove, repaint, and re-position the ab buttons
  • remove all the return edges from the shins, thighs, biceps, and forearms
  • repalce the female snaps on the posterior armor with male snaps
  • get a holster for the E-11
Edited by Wompet
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I´m not sure if this applies to the 2.0 kit (hoping it don`t) and perhaps you`re already aware but for Centurion the CRL states:

AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version.

AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version.

And some info on the Shins: The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net 

 

Best of luck on your build:salute:

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Good Start Gary. You might have to add "size arms, legs, and torso accordingly" to your laundry list of items to touch. You're on your way! Keep up the posts and pics! :duim:

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20 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Looking forward to the progress

Me too.

8 hours ago, 68Brick said:

Good Start Gary. You might have to add "size arms, legs, and torso accordingly" to your laundry list of items to touch. You're on your way! Keep up the posts and pics! :duim:

The sizing seems right, but we'll see.

14 hours ago, TheSwede said:

I´m not sure if this applies to the 2.0 kit (hoping it don`t) and perhaps you`re already aware but for Centurion the CRL states:

AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version.

AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version.

And some info on the Shins: The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net 

 

Best of luck on your build:salute:

Okay - need to take good pictures of the chest and back plates and share them, since I don't know if this is a 2.0 kit or not ...

 

The greaves look like their correctly assembled (left is left and right is right):

nKuioib.jpg

but I am wondering about the cover strips on the back - are they supposed to be that wide?

kxXrEdI.jpg

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7 hours ago, Wompet said:

The greaves look like their correctly assembled

They are:)

7 hours ago, Wompet said:

cover strips on the back

They normaly are 25mm (can vary) but they should stop at the ridge, not go all the way up.

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On 12/20/2017 at 12:35 AM, TheSwede said:

They are:)

They normaly are 25mm (can vary) but they should stop at the ridge, not go all the way up.

Okay, so that's at least one set of cover strips I'll need to redo.  Thanks.

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  • 1 month later...

Okay, haven't updated this in a while ...

I removed all of the return edges from the forearms (I thought - having looked at some other threads I may have to remove a little more.

I still need to:

  • work on the bucket (but now I have paints and templates from Trooperbay for the outside)
  • re-do the strapping (need to get some brackets possibly)
  • remove, repaint, and re-position the ab buttons
  • repalce the female snaps on the posterior armor with male snaps

So, for the last point - any suggestions on how to remove the female snaps?

yQ1bRCg.jpg

 

And, when I get out the Dremel for the forearms again - I need to even out the butt plate with the kidney plate, don't I?

MJ7zywv.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Just interruptions and delays.

I still need to:

  • finish re-doing the straps (I now have new snap-setting tools, so hopefully this will get done on my next days off)
  • remove, trim, repaint, and reposition the ab buttons (or possibly just repaint)
  • re-do the belt and order a holster
  • repaint the helmet

 

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  • 4 months later...

I haven't updated this in awhile (and I don't know if anyone can read this right now), but the only things left before starting a Pre-Approval thread are replacing the Ab buttons (a quick trim, paint, and glue) and a little work on the helmet (I'm playing 3-D Tetris with my head, the helmet pads, and the electronics).

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Hey Gary, a lot has happened since the last time I posted here. I see several problems with your armor. First off, the snaps on the butt plate are wrong, but that's not really an issue as soon as I tell you the other problem. Where you have those snaps set in, needs to come off. Take the entire return off the butt. you can see the edge the runs the entire part and that is where the cut line is. staying with the butt plate, yes that line from the kidney notch should line up with the butt plate.

 

For any other questions, please post more pics and we can get that TK approved!

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Well, I already evened out the kidney and butt plates, so that's done.

On 8/20/2018 at 8:31 AM, Commander Gree said:

First off, the snaps on the butt plate are wrong, but that's not really an issue as soon as I tell you the other problem. Where you have those snaps set in, needs to come off. Take the entire return off the butt. you can see the edge the runs the entire part and that is where the cut line is.

Yeah, the original owner did some ... interesting things with his build.  Weird snaps and return edges everywhere. :shok:

I drilled out and replaced the incorrect snaps with the correct ones, but now I see that I basically have to do the following:

Well, I can take care of trimming those when I do the ab buttons.

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13 hours ago, Wompet said:

Well, I already evened out the kidney and butt plates, so that's done.

Yeah, the original owner did some ... interesting things with his build.  Weird snaps and return edges everywhere. :shok:

I drilled out and replaced the incorrect snaps with the correct ones, but now I see that I basically have to do the following:

Well, I can take care of trimming those when I do the ab buttons.

Sounds good. Looking forward to watching you fix everything. Going to be some work but nothing too crazy

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  • 7 months later...

Wow, I haven't updated this in a while ...

So the good news is that I thought that I had everything ready for my Pre-Approval thread/submission pics on Saturday night.

Then the right shin kept popping open, the left end of the belt popped off, and ... well, you'll see below.

pjLgQdy.jpg

4hpWUa4.jpg

mhyv6jf.jpg

 

Almost there, stay on target ...

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Looks like the plastic belt section is pretty straight, adding some bend to this will help, a little heat and slight pressure at each of the box sections should do the trick. 

 

You may find you need a little heat on the shin too to help it stay in a closed position, just to take some strain of it's resting place, if it rests open it will always be a pain to keep closed. 

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074RLGM7F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

7y2aIkF.jpg

 

2 on each side top and bottom

 

0 issues

 

Except maybe a pinch when they close

 

Yes, it's ugly as hell in there, Trimmed to small ------Installed elastic ----- Shimmed --- Re-did magnets

Edited by James Whitley
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I originally thought about using velcro for the shins, but I decided on a method similar to James':

On 4/1/2019 at 7:07 AM, James Whitley said:

Except that I'm using these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magcraft-Rare-Earth-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-x-1-8-in-Block-Magnet-10-Pack-NSN0911/204691493

I had used a double pair of regular bar magnets as a temporary measure for the right shin upper closure.  There are now two pairs of rare earth magnets in each shin.

 

I'm currently working on shaping the belt and on fixing that crack ...

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5 hours ago, Wompet said:

I originally thought about using velcro for the shins, but I decided on a method similar to James':

Did you scuff up your magnets before gluing them?  found that this is the main reason they come unglued, followed by not using enough glue

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