Dracotrooper Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Great recovery on that muzzle Tom! You are a brave one! Ah, testimony though that green stuff can come to the rescue! ps. I noticed from a few posts back that you may have installed your ejection port guard where the flash guard is supposed to be. The ejection port guard is bigger than the flash guard in size. I checked the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference, and I think it may very well be the case. Sorry to mention if that was intentional, but I thought I'd point that out to you in case it wasn't, cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Great recovery on that muzzle Tom! You are a brave one! Ah, testimony though that green stuff can come to the rescue! ps. I noticed from a few posts back that you may have installed your ejection port guard where the flash guard is supposed to be. The ejection port guard is bigger than the flash guard in size. I checked the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference, and I think it may very well be the case. Sorry to mention if that was intentional, but I thought I'd point that out to you in case it wasn't, cheers! Thanks Jesse! I'm glad it paid off, could have gone very very wrong hahaAs for the flash/ejection guard... certainly wasn't intentional! I thought they looked pretty much the same size on first inspection, but one piece seemed to be a better fit around the ejection port than it did at the nozzle, so I placed them based on that. It was only when I installed the front sight that I thought the sight and flashguard looked awfully close together. I can see in the reference picture you sent too that there is a small gap there too.Question is whether it's worth the move. There'd be more space between the sight, but the ejection.port guard wouldn't have the nice fit... What do you think? I suppose I could try and reshape the other guard...Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 2 hours ago, BaneLives85 said: (...) one piece seemed to be a better fit around the ejection port than it did at the nozzle, so I placed them based on that. It was only when I installed the front sight that I thought the sight and flashguard looked awfully close together. I can see in the reference picture you sent too that there is a small gap there too. (...) These two pieces are not that accurate in this blaster kit. On a real Sterling both of them have the exact same shape, are a lot thinner and installed in a different angle. I guess DoopyDoo's have modified theirs for stability or trooping purpose. The good thing is, you get a bigger surface for glueing. Regarding the gap to the front sight cage: Looks like this got reduced by enhancing the ends with green stuff. As the same has been done on your ejector port guard, I would suggest to just leave it as it is now. Not worth risking to damage or break them - unless you want every part of your build to be as accurate as possible. But then there are still the wrong thickness and angles. I wouldn't mind... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 These two pieces are not that accurate in this blaster kit. On a real Sterling both of them have the exact same shape, are a lot thinner and installed in a different angle. I guess DoopyDoo's have modified theirs for stability or trooping purpose. The good thing is, you get a bigger surface for glueing. Regarding the gap to the front sight cage: Looks like this got reduced by enhancing the ends with green stuff. As the same has been done on your ejector port guard, I would suggest to just leave it as it is now. Not worth risking to damage or break them - unless you want every part of your build to be as accurate as possible. But then there are still the wrong thickness and angles. I wouldn't mind... Thabks for the input Tino. I must say, I'm very tempted to leave it being so close to completion.To be fair, most of my Doopies kit was in pretty good shape on arrival I thought, and it was really just the two guards that needed fixing as the ends were broken off. There's always the next blaster though! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 7 hours ago, BaneLives85 said: Thanks Jesse! I'm glad it paid off, could have gone very very wrong haha As for the flash/ejection guard... certainly wasn't intentional! I thought they looked pretty much the same size on first inspection, but one piece seemed to be a better fit around the ejection port than it did at the nozzle, so I placed them based on that. It was only when I installed the front sight that I thought the sight and flashguard looked awfully close together. I can see in the reference picture you sent too that there is a small gap there too. Question is whether it's worth the move. There'd be more space between the sight, but the ejection.port guard wouldn't have the nice fit... What do you think? I suppose I could try and reshape the other guard... Glad you have Tino to shed light on the guards. It will still make for an excellent blaster, I have no doubt Keep up the fine work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted December 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Painting underway! Most of the smaller pieces are already done, counter, scope, rail, etc. and now just starting on the main pieceGot a pic below of the paints and other sprays I'm using. The far right is Brushed nickel, far left is bronzeSent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted December 18, 2017 Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 A brand like 'PlastiKote' sure sounds like the right paint - good on ya! When I get to painting my exposed bolt, I will also go for the metallic nickel look. Looking forward to your next update with anticipation!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Hope you've all had a good christmas!Small update here, been a busy period so not much progress.Have been getting the spray painting underway. Primer went on without a hitch, the brushed nickel seemed to be a different consistency though. This might be something to do with how the metallic paint is made, I'm not sure, but I ended up with a fair bit of 'wrinkling' in places (first pic). The only way to fix this was to rub it down with sandpaper and respray :/I don't have a lot of experience with spray paint, but it seems with that the primer and matt black can be sprayed in a thicker coat (before you get drips/tears) than the metallic ones (before wrinkling)Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Hi Tom,Merry Christmas :-)The Humbrol Metallic Silver that I used went on really well, if you’re looking for an alternative. Also, not sure what your final plans are but, I believe the grip for the sterling was plastic, so don’t worry too much about Metallic Silver on that part. A good gloss black will look the part. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Hi Tom,Merry Christmas :-)The Humbrol Metallic Silver that I used went on really well, if you’re looking for an alternative. Also, not sure what your final plans are but, I believe the grip for the sterling was plastic, so don’t worry too much about Metallic Silver on that part. A good gloss black will look the part. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Merry Christmas to you too Dan! Yeh I've got a clear gloss to go on the grip, and a clear matt for the rest. I was actually wondering about the bolt though (silver parts), whether to use a clear gloss or matt on those? Or maybe neither?I've actually done all the black now too but don't have a pic yet. Just need to weather it a little and get the clear layers on. The replacement aluminium I've ordered doesn't seem to want to arrive, might have to look elsewhere. The bracket is the only bit I need to do before putting all the bits on and we're done!!Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Hi Tom,Merry Christmas :-)The Humbrol Metallic Silver that I used went on really well, if you’re looking for an alternative. Also, not sure what your final plans are but, I believe the grip for the sterling was plastic, so don’t worry too much about Metallic Silver on that part. A good gloss black will look the part. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Clear coats - I’ve not seen those done before. Won’t the grip still be Silver if you put a clear coat on? :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Clear coats - I’ve not seen those done before. Won’t the grip still be Silver if you put a clear coat on? :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I've used the silver as an undercoat, and then sprayed black over the top on all parts (masking off only the bits that will stay silver) so the grip is actually black now. I can then sand through a bit of the black to expose the silver underneath...I hope I've been doing this right! You've got my worried now haha. I'll go grab a couple of pics... 2 secs...Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Ah, gotcha. Your last pics were still Silver - didn’t realise you’ve painted bits black. If you can, avoid sanding the main grip to show Silver. As it was made from black plastic, even if it got damaged, it would still show black. To my knowledge, there was no silver underneath. Same goes for the t-tracks on the front of the weapon. They were plastic strips stuck over the barrel holes. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Here we are! The last pic of the exposed bolt is actually silver under the masking tape, just haven't taken it off yet. Will probably leave the tape on until I decide weather that part is gonna be gloss or matt. The clear gloss on the grip should give it a nice shineSent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Ah, gotcha. Your last pics were still Silver - didn’t realise you’ve painted bits black. If you can, avoid sanding the main grip to show Silver. As it was made from black plastic, even if it got damaged, it would still show black. To my knowledge, there was no silver underneath. Same goes for the t-tracks on the front of the weapon. They were plastic strips stuck over the barrel holes. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Ahh ok, I didn't realise that! Will leave that black then, Cheers! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Looking good Tom! - nice seeing your blaster with black on, getting there! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted January 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Replacement aluminium finally arrived! Now to cut it down to size for the bracket For the bending part... last time I cut about half way through and it snapped :/ will aim to cut about a third through this time and hopefully it will be alright. Would heating it before bending help at all?Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 As far as I know heating does not help when bending. But to be honest, except from my first scope rail, all others I built simply got bent on my tabletop without any cut in the underside. That always worked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted January 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 As far as I know heating does not help when bending. But to be honest, except from my first scope rail, all others I built simply got bent on my tabletop without any cut in the underside. That always worked. Ok, maybe I can give that a try. Did you still get a nice 90 degree angle with the table top?I've got enough to allow for a few screwups now which is good hahaSent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 4 minutes ago, BaneLives85 said: (...) Did you still get a nice 90 degree angle with the table top? (...) Yes, the 90 degrees are no problem - no matter what technique you are using. The only thing to bear in mind is that you might get a softer bend at your tabletop. If you are aiming for a "sharp" bend, better use a vice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted January 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Yes, the 90 degrees are no problem - no matter what technique you are using. The only thing to bear in mind is that you might get a softer bend at your tabletop. If you are aiming for a "sharp" bend, better use a vice. Awesome, thanks Tino! Wish me luck lolSent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Thought I'd mention: cutting 1/3rd before bending helped my shaping process when I worked on my trigger guard, soft bend as Tino put it. For a 90 degree bend, Tino's advice is the way to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted January 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 Bracket done! I actually went for a combination of the 1/3 cut (probably less actually) and a clamp with a flat edge and some pliers to bend it, bending it veeery slowly haha. Got a couple of coats of paint on the bracket yesterday, now it's time to go for the clear coats! Woop! The end is nigh!Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwakermad[TK] Posted January 11, 2018 Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 Great work on this blaster Tom, it has given me the urge to start back on mine, well tomorrow maybe. One question, where did you get the folding stock from? keep up the good work I am watching how you get on to give me some tips. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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