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ShadyP's FOTK built thread (Backstage Props - preorder FOTK)


ShadyP

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We can get caught up in building and tend to miss the odd photo or two, three, four.

 

Great news your replacement ab boxes have arrived. 

 

I did see BSP post an image of the backplate they are modifying the mold, interested to see the updates.

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This is what the forearm looks like. With the gloves, it’s not as bad. It does seem loose though.

8dbd9027335d2dac403b3b7e7279e082.jpg&key=859582af41276a5680070e5eb5238ec541f2e84b47ab43bd0321f98167bc0bccb7ba7fdbb8548dc133d4213562fc8089.jpg&key=4c1a69b6f6a1ddcef670f5b130e79720725b8169c63c92924e450b3da203abd474e7faec0e959bc4c64fcf3c34d022db.jpg&key=2f1dec63de1202c11a16dba76ea564a1a1971f8b73c713cc05785fecd6b384c6

 

I’m going to attach the holster before glueing the halves together. Making the riser’s base seamless and keeping that seam line would be tricky if I did it after glueing. Since I have a resin and metal holster from Dan, I got it out to confirm sizing.

65fef2ec44951ef2795834f07fbe37b7.jpg&key=eed79fe3e78532ffc61649ff7db0be988d165a693e3ff2cb951c51b2a37b5ea2

What do you know, it doesn’t fit and would require much more bondo to build up to matching this outline. Oh well, I’ll use the BSP supplied holster and sell Dan’s.

3edd9f68ed2acb0033665d86ef6972a9.jpg&key=a7f050dcafe6433eafc073def690c4bc614065ffee6fe8511a30086ff2f99d03

 

For comparison, here are the two next to each other.

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I’ve got the other thigh glued and curing on one side. Once this glue dries I’ll put it on to see if I need to shim the inside seam. As I mentioned, I want to attach the holster before glueing the other leg.

41656a0e370fb138c8e3e1eb094ef3f6.jpg&key=6c2149eb3794eee9d59ac20f2c33034692864d94d8abaacddf898d86a770f01a

 

Biceps and forearms are glued and just need the excess e6000 removed. Photos for the sake of photos.

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A few of the “no glue required” parts were sanded and made ready for use tonight as well. The outer chest, kneecaps, and butt are all ready to go.

 

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I'd have about the same room, a few pieces of foam will solve that. Also undersuit sleeve will fill some of the font when it bunches with gloves. 

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8 hours ago, JAFO said:

When you size then be sure to wear them on the correct arm emoji1305.png

 

 

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I knew you'd catch that.  My squad's Kylo was over helping sand parts last night and gave he a hard time about those pictures as well.   

We also debated the correct way to do the yoke return edge.  The options we were going back and forth on are using ABS scraps to make it or ordering some Foam.  I'm going with the foam.  I'll cut it to shape and coat the sides with an epoxy to harden it up for a bondo seam filling.   I'm ordering this stuff in the 6mm thickness.  It looks like the yoke varies in thickness so I'll strategically add and subtract to the sheets thickness as necessary.  Thankfully I have crafty friends to assist with this part.   On another bright side, I should have plenty left over to line the forearms and tighten them up a bit. 

 

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9 hours ago, ShadyP said:

I knew you'd catch that.  My squad's Kylo was over helping sand parts last night and gave he a hard time about those pictures as well.   

We also debated the correct way to do the yoke return edge.  The options we were going back and forth on are using ABS scraps to make it or ordering some Foam.  I'm going with the foam.  I'll cut it to shape and coat the sides with an epoxy to harden it up for a bondo seam filling.   I'm ordering this stuff in the 6mm thickness.  It looks like the yoke varies in thickness so I'll strategically add and subtract to the sheets thickness as necessary.  Thankfully I have crafty friends to assist with this part.   On another bright side, I should have plenty left over to line the forearms and tighten them up a bit. 

 

I didn't bother mentioning it, you have them paired correctly in the other image ;) 

 

I've added strips of ABS to overcut clone armor returns before, held up pretty well, just remember the yoke does take a lot of strain so the more strength you can give the better. 

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16 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I've added strips of ABS to overcut clone armor returns before, held up pretty well, just remember the yoke does take a lot of strain so the more strength you can give the better. 

that's why I've opted to use EVA Foam.  It'll arrive early next week and will likely drive me up the wall a few times while I get it cut to shape.  

My next mission is to attach the raised details to the thighs and shins.  Specifically the holster plate and the strange credit card swiping details.  My plan is to use some loctite to attach some white plastic screwed to them and then drill holes in the armor.  Add a washer/nut to the back and loctite those in place.   

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I got very little done this weekend aside from the drive to and from Portland Maine for a Make-A-Wish troop.

Before I glue these together to prep for bondo and the foam lining / return edge, is this correct? I can’t tell if I should glue the from/back flush with the detail side of the back crest or if I line up the trim lines and reinforce with a cover strip on the inside.

5bce0674678df96a8c6e4e014621533b.jpg


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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

well,  it's been about 2 years since I put this armor project down and focused on other aspects of life and the 501st.  After a squad mate sold his kit to another Vermonter I have some reinvigorated interest in finishing this project.

Looking back through my parts I remembered that I need to replace the yoke and TD as well as my shoulder bells and possibly back plate.   With two of us working on these kits again in VT I'm hoping to find a vendor to provide us both the parts at the same time.    Time to start messaging vendors I guess.  If anyone has suggestions as to who can ship parts fastest, I'd love to hear them. 

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Great to see you back at it, real life can get busy at times. Good luck with the search for replacement parts, most you will find don't hold stock so you may have to wait for a little while.

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We are somewhat heavily debating which direction to go for replacement parts.   I've been talking with Walt at WTF and @DocDan is chatting with Kevin and Imperial Surplus.  

Walt's opinion is that no yoke part will marry properly with the rest of the upper body armor from a different maker/mold.   He is suggesting that we acquire his outer chest, yoke, and back armor to ensure that everything fits together properly.  This makes sense to me.  I think. 


We are awaiting word back from Kevin @ Imperial Surplus as to whether his yoke piece will work on our BSP chest/back armor.  

Does anyone here have a thought or suggestion?  In reality, all of these kits are ABS plastic and could be trimmed/cut/glued to each other in any sort of way.  I'm hoping to simplify product as much as possible on this kit and extra bondo work doesn't sound too appealing. 

These are the pics Walt sent me of what he suggests we purchase.  
 

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At least purchasing a full yoke front/back and chest you should be able to get these over your original abdomen.

 

Unfortunately you will have to fill the seam between the yoke and backplate and the two cylinder detonator sections, no getting away with this as most kits are assembled this way.

 

I used JB weld which is sandable and a little stronger than using bondo/filler.

 

 There are a couple of Walt builds but as yet I don't think I have seen anyone tackle these pieces in assembly.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, the three of us working on these kits together decided to buy the yoke/chest/back armor from Walt. After talking with our New England GML’s the BSP detonator is going to be fine. We aren’t replacing those.

I also acquired a KB props yoke and back from a friend. I’m going to use this one to get the costume assembled while I wait for the WTF to arrive.

I’m planning to get the legs and arms finished today and have the Velcro for my gaskets situated and then time to move on to my ab boxes and belt.

I purchased a handful of nylon bolts and nuts that im using to attach all the various boxes on the armor. I’m using one of my needle files to cut the holes in the armor for the bolts and some 5 minute 2 part epoxy to hold the bolts to the boxes.

2 bolts for each left shin box
2, maybe 3 for the thigh holster.
1 each for ab boxes except the wide one gets 2.

Lastly, a couple photos of more limbs with glue settling. You can see the holes for bolts on the left shin.
3f649cf52687cb21ec38a63c10707336.jpg



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OK.  Next weird detail on this BSP kit - shin closures.  After discussions with @DocDan yesterday I realize that this "back over front" closure may be a problem.   Does it matter provided I get a good seal and we don't see the velcro peaking out?
1631214649_rightshin1.thumb.jpg.0b1fc6caeeda4f2ec614927a9f0366c3.jpg2089112427_rightshin2.thumb.jpg.ddd55c5459890693d0aa0253e6ad23c6.jpg1207723067_rightshin3.thumb.jpg.451495fcf0dcb6c1c50e2fd77869acf8.jpg

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Personally would trim that piece off and glue behind then they would butt together. If the step was inside it would have worked better.

 

2089981740_Screenshot_20211102-052729_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.0b8b96ae23c888b2ad958ecb5f11c579.jpg

 

 

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Personally would trim that piece off and glue behind then they would butt together. If the step was inside it would have worked better.


What i showed in those photos is the inside of the right shin. The outside looks fine.

35835f722bc13a2e44dd2d8aeaaf1d89.jpg


The CRL photo shows back to front overlap on the inside of the shin piece. Seems awkward.
e11ce8088a420fdf836e40735a9f059f.jpg


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