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Sha Sha's WTF ANH Stunt Build [Complete]


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Helmet Interior

I knew that I wanted to Plasti-Dip the helmet interior, and before assembling the helmet I went back and forth a few times about whether I should plasti-dip before or after assembly. I eventually decided on doing it after because I didn't want to have to drill holes through the plasti-dip for assembly, but I didn't really know how I'd disassemble the helmet after drilling all the holes in order to plasti-dip it. Retrospectively, I could have temporarily held the helmet together with screws instead of rivets for easier disassembly, but I just didn't think of it at the time.


In order to plasti-dip the assembled helmet, I added blue tape to the interior of the teeth as well as the eyes, then taped a plastic bag around the entire exterior of the helmet. I sprayed about 3-4 coats of plasti-dip, leaving around 30 minutes between coats. It worked very well, and there was very little bleeding of the plasti-dip. What little there was was easily scraped off with a fingernail.


The WTF kits come with a long sheet of green plastic for the lenses. Originally I was planning on just holding it in place with the ear screws (maybe with a bit cut out for the bridge of my nose), but the piece I had was just a bit too short, so I had to scrap that plan. I recalled seeing other people's builds that held the lenses in with screws, so I modeled my solution after those. I first drew a template out of cardboard, and transferred that to the green plastic. Each lens would be roughly the size of the eye, but with 3 tabs for the screws. I decided to use Chicago screws embedded in milliput. I drilled the holes into the green plastic, installed the Chicago screws, then put blobs of milliput around each of the 3 Chicago screw bases. I'd let it harden a bit, then press it into place. Very carefully, I'd unscrew the Chicago screws and remove them and the lens, leaving just the milliput and base in place to dry.








For the frown mesh, I simply used a roll of cheap screen material I found at the hardware store, and held it in place with electrical tape. The whole roll only cost $5.




I decided to make my own fan set using simple components found on Amazon. (Fans, wires, crimp connectors, switchUSB charger) I'm terrible at soldering, so I used crimps with heat shrinking to connect the wires.




I used this diagram that I found on FISD for reference. Unfortunately, I can't recall which thread I found it in; if I find it again I will edit this post and properly give credit.




I installed a length of 1/2" split electrical conduit tubing and held it in with velcro in order to hide the wires. The USB power stick sits near the right hovi tip, also held in with velcro. The power switch is just sort of floating in space, but it seems to work out fine. The fans themselves are also held in with Velcro. I took the advice of many other builds I'd seen and pointed them up towards the lenses.




I got a set of tactical helmet pads from Amazon and found that my helmet would bobble around like crazy when them installed. After consulting with some folks on Facebook, I followed their advice and removed the top pad, and everything fits more snugly. My helmet still bobbles a bit if I tilt my head quickly from side to side, so I might eventually investigate other solutions, but this seems good enough for now.




Here is the completed interior:


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18 hours ago, Sean said:

Great thread. Your skill with a heat gun is top notch.  I know I was terrified the first time I used one on my build. Your armour looks fantastic.

Thank you! I know that most people recommend a hot water bath over the heat gun, but 1) I takes forever to boil water and 2) I didn't have any pots big enough for the bigger armor pieces. It was a bit of a risk to use the heat gun, but if you go slowly and remove the heat just as the plastic starts to lose its spring, it works really well.

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10 hours ago, jethroskull said:

I like that lens mounting option!

Thanks! I've seen other folks use t-nuts glued into place, which is another option. The milliput felt a bit more forgiving to me, though, and I happened to have some on hand for my Doopydoo's E-11 build.

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Armor Bin

The advantage of 1) using snaps for armor strapping and 2) being small is that I'm able to fit my entire kit in a 25-gallon Husky bin. (Shout out to the guy at the Home Depot who had to go up on the motorized platform to get my bin down from the top of the shelf!)


I knew that I would have to line the bin with something to protect the armor from banging around inside. Luckily, I remembered that someone had given my son a Star Wars quilt when he was born, so I "borrowed" it, and used velcro to attach it.




The shoulder bells, gloves, neck seal, undersuit, iComm/amp/mic all fit in the helmet:




The left forearm is in the left bicep is in the left shin is in the left thigh:




The blaster is in the right shin which is in the right thigh:




I unsnap the chest/ab and back/kidney, and place the lower torso inside the upper torso. Both thighs go inside of that. The boots, TD, and right forearm/bicep are along the front of the bin:




 The helmet to the right, and holster and belt along the left and right edge. Here is everything packed in the bin:




When I actually troop, the helmet as well as the blaster are in pillow cases. Everything closes easily with no pressure on the armor, and I keep patches/coins/trading cards between the liner and the edge of the bin.




Edited by shashachu
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501st Submission and EIB Submission

Finally I was ready for submission! It took a couple rounds (mostly minor strapping/dressing changes, as well as cleaning my armor) but I was approved into the Golden Gate Garrison on October 7. TK-19233 reporting for duty!














Since I built with Centurion/EIB in mind, I submitted by EIB application shortly after and was approved as well:



They gave me a few suggestions for Centurion, but to be honest the biggest barrier is getting the rubber handguards to stay stuck to the rubber gloves long enough to take a set of submission photos! Since I don't plan to use the rubber gloves for trooping, I don't want to attach the handguards permanently. I tried velcro but the adhesive didn't seem to want to stick to the rubber gloves, so I'll have to explore other options.


So far I've gone on two troops: a holiday lights parade and a surprise end-of-chemo party for a 13-year-old battling brain cancer. They were both everything that I had hoped to get out of the experience, and I plan to do many more troops next year. Thanks to everyone on FISD who came before me for sharing all of their armor building knowledge; I hope this thread helps out a few people in the same way. Onward to 2018!



Edited by shashachu
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
On 9/16/2017 at 6:51 PM, shashachu said:


For the ammo pack, I again basically failed to document the process. I did the trimming, including using a can as a template for the curved lower corners. I drilled the holes for the split rivets, installed them, was proud of myself, then took one look and realized I'd trimmed the ammo pack way too long, and there were huge gaps between the ammo pack and the side of the thigh. Fortunate I was able to salvage it because there was just enough length that I could simply re-trim it to the correct length while still using the same holes in the thigh. Just another reason not to rush through a build.







For calf closures, this was another decision I agonized about a bit. I knew that the elastic plus bra hooks was screen accurate, but I was uneasy about drilling holes into the calf. Velcro was simple, but I'd heard that some folks had issues with it popping open, and I didn't like that it didn't have any 'give'. Ultimately I decided to go with Velcro for simplicity, and due to the fact that it was non destructive, so I could switch to the bra hooks later if I wanted. I ended up buying some low profile industrial white Velcro and I'll.jusy have to see how it holds up. If I do have problems with it popping open, I'll try adding an inner cover strip and adding Velcro to that.



How did you get your measurements for cutting out the ammo pack, with WTF it is just a strip with no markings. 

Also, how has the low profile velcro been holding up?



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10 hours ago, LTM said:

How did you get your measurements for cutting out the ammo pack, with WTF it is just a strip with no markings. 

Also, how has the low profile velcro been holding up?



For height, I trimmed it similarly to the belt - a couple mm above and below boxes. For length, I essentially eyeballed it by holding and bending the ammo pack against the thigh. (Heat bending it first might help.) Since the length depends on the circumference of the bottom of your thigh piece, even if I did have measurements, yours would be almost guaranteed to be different. Just be sure that it's pretty tight against the thigh and it should be ok. 


As for the Velcro, still holding up great, but it's only been 3 months and 3 troops. I wouldn't be surprised if I eventually had to replace it, but I don't foresee that happening anytime soon.


Hope this helps!

Edited by shashachu
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  • 5 months later...
1 hour ago, repentance3232 said:

Sha Sha how many clamps should I purchase for my WTF ANH HERO???

I would go with at least 5 or more.  You can get them pretty cheap online:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-inch-Heavy-Duty-Plastic-Spring-Clamps-Tips-DIY-Small-Tool-Clip-Jaw-Opening-P1/263439219641?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=562461783249&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

You will also need Neodymium (rare earth) magnets.  I recommend getting no less than a dozen of this or a very similar size, but NOT ones that are ant thinner, as they can (and will) break/shatter easily. https://www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Super-Strong-Neodymium-Rare-earth-Magnet-Disc-for-sale-3-4-dia-x-1-10-thick-/281060567699?hash=item417083ea93

There is a link under my signature below to my tutorial which may help with the magnets.

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  • 6 months later...

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