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Doopydoos Full Resin Kit WIP + Tino,Chris + more, Additional Parts


Dracotrooper

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Hello again E-11 Blaster Enthusiasts!

 

I've been on a hiatus this past little while focusing on family, career, and a trip overseas but this past weekend, allowed myself to re-enter my build mindset, especially so as Father's Day is coming up. We gotta give ourselves some allowances once and a while right?

 

Ok - so I got going with a fairly major component of the grip - the selector switch.

 

Doopydoos grip with rotary switch from T-Jay and selector lever. Will install wiring to switch to enable future electronics

 

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Tino rotary switch with terminals bent to help with installation into switch housing

 

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Bottom plastic ring from Tino rotary switch removed using lexan scissors

 

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Plastic ring from bottom of Tino rotary switch removed. Resulting surface smoothed with sandpaper

 

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Drum sanding bit and additional bit used to shape depth of hole for rotary switch install

 

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Drum dremel bit and spade bit used to create recess for rotary switch housing. Some hollow through to let wires come out the top

 

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Carving out channel for rotary switch lever

 

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Rotary switch positioned fully inside grip

 

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Super happy to see the rotary switch sitting inside the cavity I drilled out, although made abit too wide but nothing a little green stuff can't help fix. I also have some plastic from T-Jay's completion set I will use to close off the open cavity. Although initially apprehensive to begin the task of soldering wires to the rotary switch terminals, I have new found confidence with the task after experimenting with and purchasing the correct solder for the job. I found using lead-based solder works so much better than lead-free solder as it has a lower melting point; enabling me to get the job done accurately and proficiently. Good ventilation is essential in using lead-based ones though; I will have my garage door open. With build momentum on the rise, want to see the BlastFX rumble motor and mode switch installed as well; plans are to get going on these by months end :)

 

Well...thanks for reading, have a terrific day!

Edited by Dracotrooper
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Jesse, superb work on this blaster. great to see you back at it. Selector switch mod is awesome. Lots of fine work to fit it in there but it looks great and you will ba able to actually use it. Rumble motor will be epic too. I always wanted to try adding one. good luck.

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Jesse, superb work on this blaster. great to see you back at it. Selector switch mod is awesome. Lots of fine work to fit it in there but it looks great and you will ba able to actually use it. Rumble motor will be epic too. I always wanted to try adding one. good luck.
Hey great to hear from you Brian! Yeah, aiming for it to be as close to SMG as possible requires quite a bit of detail work. Thanks for the compliments

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Just a few days ago, I wondered when we would finally get another update from Jesse again. Here we go. :D Glad to see you found time to continue working on this beauty.

 

Yes, installing that rotary switch into the grip is not an easy task and you chose a much cleaner way than me. :duim:

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12 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Nice to have you back, Jesse. :-)

 

Great to be back Dan!:)

 

11 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Just a few days ago, I wondered when we would finally get another update from Jesse again. Here we go. :D Glad to see you found time to continue working on this beauty. Yes, installing that rotary switch into the grip is not an easy task and you chose a much cleaner way than me. :duim:

 

Thanks Tino! Will continue the tasks :) I've sketched out some more design considerations that I'm pretty pumped about - can't wait to share some progress, cheers!

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Quick update after my 60 minute sprint after dinner. Four wires successfully soldered to the rotary switch.

 

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Although originally left feeling short handed in using lead free solder; lead based solder did the trick and gave me a boost of confidence. It's lower melting point allowed me to solder with ease even at a 30 watt setting on my soldering iron. Tinning the soldering iron tip also helped allot. I was pretty frustrated with lead free because it took forever to melt the solder and with these small wires / components, experienced a huge headache. The light duty lead bases rosen core solder (60/40) at 0.8mm gauge was awesome. With wires only 1/32" thick, it was definitely the right solder choice for the job.

 

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Minor adjustments remaining include rotating the switch more and positioning the switch lever further up by 2mm to match SMG references. I also need to label the wires so they can be made sense of when accessing them from the receiver, post installation. Finally, green stuff will need to be added along with a plastic sheet to close off the cavity. Yeah yeah lever needs to be installed too; can't forget about that ;)

More to come; thanks for reading!

Edited by Dracotrooper
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Hello folks, made small strides today and need help.

First off, I sanded off the base of the selector switch to get rid of excess resin.

 

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Right now, I'm not clear how to attach the selector lever to the rotary switch.

 

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I was thinking of sanding down the turn knob on the rotary switch then drill a cavity to the bottom of the lever and attach that way. Use e-6000 to glue. And since there's a flat part to the knob, fill with green stuff? Is there another way?

Amy help is appreciated, Thanks!

Edited by Dracotrooper
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9 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

If it was me I'd drill out the hole in the selector and then either drill for a small grub screw or use a "squish" method to get a very snug fit on the post with out using glue.

 

7 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Had the same problem, Jesse. Below is how I did it. Full progress can be found in this chapter. Hope this helps. Keeping fingers crossed.

 

Thank you gentlemen! :) Great food for thought. Haven't decided exactly how I will go about this but because you guys didn't mention glue, will curb that idea as it's likely not necessary.

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Regarding the glue: that slot in my resin selector lever was a bit smaller than the white part of that rotary switch. I really had to press the lever onto the switch. Otherwise I would have used glue - why not?! Most likely, there won't be a situation, where you need to remove the lever again (after spray painting). :)

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Regarding the glue: that slot in my resin selector lever was a bit smaller than the white part of that rotary switch. I really had to press the lever onto the switch. Otherwise I would have used glue - why not?! Most likely, there won't be a situation, where you need to remove the lever again (after spray painting).
Much thanks for that tidbit of detail Tino about the glue, cheers

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Tonight, did a bit of a tidy up job amd some planning.

Rotary switch rotated to desired position. Now the middle setting of the rotary knob is alligned to 'R' setting.

Also noticed the switch is sitting low; will need to elevate the switch with a piece of plastic. Also, wires got labeled and tidied up as well.

To be continued....

 

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Edited by Dracotrooper
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Good day folks, some notable progress here. Wires outfitted with heat shrink tubing and MDF board installed to support base of rotary switch inside cavity - nice and snug now. Rotary switch knob is nicely oriented too.

Ah...that good old green stuff once again - closed cavity with it and shaped it following SMG references. Will need to drill out a hole and sand down slightly to get it just right.

Here's a trivial question - why is the 'R' for the selector switch mean 'single shot?' Very curious - what is the meaning behind choosing 'R' for this.

Selector lever remains; gonna leave that for next week! Cheers mates!

 

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Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
 

Edited by Dracotrooper
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18 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

Here's a trivial question - why is the 'R' for the selector switch mean 'single shot?' Very curious - what is the meaning behind choosing 'R' for this.

 

According to page 10 of the Sterling User Handbook, this is called the "single shot position". :huh: Tried hard but did not find the letter "R" in those three words. ;)

Another source said A=automatic, R=repeat, S=safe

Oh, and good build progress. :D

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According to page 10 of the Sterling User Handbook, this is called the "single shot position". :huh: Tried hard but did not find the letter "R" in those three words.
Another source said A=automatic, R=repeat, S=safe
Oh, and good build progress.
Nice find Tino! Looks like the 'R' refers to the method in which to use the SMG, like as in ...repeat single shots...and do so manually. This makes sense next to the 'A" for automatic shots.

Next up is selector lever, fingers crossed

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Wow that's very impressive work. Well done you.   Just a quick question . I'm from new Zealand.  I ordered the complete Doopydoos e11 kit without doing some research I have since discovered that some troopers were having issues a while ago with their orders not being sent and having a battle with being refunded . Did you have any issues . Sorry if it's been discussed before . 

 

Again brilliant build quality mate.

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Wow that's very impressive work. Well done you.   Just a quick question . I'm from new Zealand.  I ordered the complete Doopydoos e11 kit without doing some research I have since discovered that some troopers were having issues a while ago with their orders not being sent and having a battle with being refunded . Did you have any issues . Sorry if it's been discussed before . 
 
Again brilliant build quality mate.
Hi thebeasts101st, to answer your question straight out; I didn't experience any delay with doopydoos and also don't have any contact with them directly at all apart from making the order, even though my folding stock, had one of the 'wish bones' broken upon arrival but decided to repair it myself. So that's my experience, hope that helps. Thanks also for the two thumbs up!

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Hello again,

 

As I am figuring out the install of electronic components to the grip / trigger housing, I am brainstorming how to best stabilize the grip to the receiver tube. I will follow what's in the E-11 Reference to add pins / screws before gluing but I wonder if it is necessary to further stabilize using screws installed on the front and back end of the grip (see green arrows)

 

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I recall in T-Jay's 2014 build; a screw was used, sandwiching the trigger guard end and grip to the receiver tube...

 

Suggestions? Comments? Thanks for reading :)

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12 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

(...)   I wonder if it is necessary to further stabilize using screws installed on the front and back end of the grip (see green arrows)   (...)

If you plan to use screws in the positions with the green arrows, that should work great without anything else.

In that 2014-build, I simply had not thought of running a screw through the rear end of the grip for additional support.

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Much thanks for your words of insight Tino

 

As I have my trigger components and electronic wires poking out the top of my grip piece; will skip on the install of pins / screws as I have limited real estate but keep to glueing with e-6000 and using screws on either end. I will use screws that came with your completion set, the ones meant for stabilizing the handle of the folding stock.

 

This will be a more streamlined, practical approach for me Thanks again!

 

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Yes, the rear screw idea looks like a good option. For the rear fastener, I had fully remove my ejector port /bolt window so I had access to insert the screw from the top down, inner tube into the grip at an angle.or maybe i used the scope rail hole for that. Have to check how and exactly where I was able to do that.

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Yes, the rear screw idea looks like a good option. For the rear fastener, I had fully remove my ejector port /bolt window so I had access to insert the screw from the top down, inner tube into the grip at an angle.or maybe i used the scope rail hole for that. Have to check how and exactly where I was able to do that.
Cool Brian - good to know you figured that was a viable option as well. You've given me food for thought on how to execute...well see. Thanks!

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