Jump to content

Doopydoos Full Resin Kit WIP + Tino,Chris + more, Additional Parts


Dracotrooper

Recommended Posts

I was wrong about the scope rail hole. Just had a look at my blaster. I think I was able to insert a screw downward from the cocking handle track spacing. Also I did not have electronics like you have installed there so I also placed a screw at an angle upwards directly behind the spring for my trigger. Sorry not much help actually. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

I was wrong about the scope rail hole. Just had a look at my blaster. I think I was able to insert a screw downward from the cocking handle track spacing. Also I did not have electronics like you have installed there so I also placed a screw at an angle upwards directly behind the spring for my trigger. Sorry not much help actually. 

I figured you meant to say install happened via the charging handle track anyways, it's all good. This can allow for the screw head to sit flush against the inner tube, for pulling back of the bolt. Don't think I'll attempt to mimic a pull back bolt, but maybe! Glad the install of the 2nd screw worked for you. Thanks for following-up, cheers!

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello again folks, another update coming your way. Focus this time on the selector lever and assembling the BlastFX mode button with acorn nut and accompanying washer.

 

I first dremeled to shape the turn knob on the rotary switch. With a square file to follow-up, I'm able to get it pretty clean.

 

3fc5bb253f3c38fb8f619d6e97005859.jpg

 

I then progressed to shaping the underside of the selector lever as well. I would later pat down the edges of the circle with green stuff to make it extra snug. At a later stage, when I get to painting, I will finally glue this piece tight using CA glue.

 

edd876d17ed5bd2188afbaab552148bf.jpg

 

I then proceeded to carve out resin so to make way for installing the BlastFX mode switch. I figured I could follow along the bottom of the ridge (see picture) to keep my mod inconspicuous. I took out my trusty dremel bit (this is a must have attachment as there's teeth on the top as well to push resin away along with sweeping it from side to side) and was careful to stay under the concave part of that upper grip part, and it worked! On test fitting the mode switch, I decided to drill pretty deep into the circle and the channel ran pretty deep too, so not to have the final button protrude too much and to minimize the curving of electrical wiring - the ideal was to simply plop the electronics in with little resistance.

 

0eae6cc5b1b9176a17fb5b9efd5fdc1d.jpg

 

 

dbc5d5ccedd179bb08f893f3e8f00930.jpg

 

Lastly, I made the acorn washer have a wider inner circle to fit the acorn nut from underneath. Also drilled deeper into the underside of the acorn nut using a 1/8" drill bit  - it now sits much deeper overtop the BlastFX mode button. I decided to also dremel away some of the the BlastFX Mode button so the acorn button / washer will sit more recessed in the circle cavity. Will do that soon...

 

539b5a441e5fca9b16dce1284661519a.jpg

 

 

0ea8c0bf2d9995aafdc44751fd51fe91.jpg

 

 

7f36d634f253b2ad1d2bffb321ecb78e.jpg

 

Just test fitted for now ...  Have to recess the whole thing in cavity, thinking to use hot glue.

 

a2d1a4ebdb659de3c1dbcca1f6e9e46d.jpg

 

That's it for now fellow builders - until the next update, have a great day!!!

Edited by Dracotrooper
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is the perfect place for that little mode button. :jc_doublethumbup: Can't think of anywhere better.

Hot glue will surely do the job. Just make sure to install the knob deep enough to avoid inadvertently pushing it, while holding the blaster.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Coming on nicely. :-)

 

2 hours ago, T-Jay said:

That is the perfect place for that little mode button. :jc_doublethumbup: Can't think of anywhere better.

Hot glue will surely do the job. Just make sure to install the knob deep enough to avoid inadvertently pushing it, while holding the blaster.

 

Thanks a bunch fellas! It's been satisfying to make progress like this as I've been on the planning stage for quite some time.

 

I know right Tino! I gleaned this idea from another trooper here on FISD - his logic of switching between blaster bolt and stun with the flock of the thumb on the grip, such a great idea! Totally, will see to have the button recessed well enough ... end transmission "click"

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again, more progress today!

 

Dremeled away a cavity to hold the BlastFX rumble motor. I was careful not to make it too wide nor too narrow for the rumble motion to go about the space it needed.

 

 

00dfa7bd1ca011d395f7d97052852499.jpg

 

 

c5e79b6af0d942d0d2828991e9de02f2.jpg

 

 

I kept the cavity as close to the top of my hand as possible on the grip so i will feel it more when holding it. Testing it feels right. I again created a channel for the wires to run along.

 

 

2b20275d0c1dadb89e3413fb0c408ce7.jpg

 

 

4751d068d00b92f4afee93956141b808.jpg

 

 

Trigger lever still needs to be installed.

 

 

5eb0070edf1f101e6452f4cbd04925ac.jpg

 

 

Also, I'm getting ready to dremel the receiver. I have the hatch pattern sketched in, which is my area to dremel out. You'll see also I will dremel out a hole for the magazine housing too.

 

 

471c7d5795e53eee0df402af3bdb36f9.jpg

 

Thanks for taking ths time to read!

Edited by Dracotrooper
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just saw something in my posted pictures, can someone tell me if following my grip install plan as shown in the pictures will have my grip installed too close to the folding stock hinge part? I seem to recall a certain gap is needed...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's correct. There should be a small gap between the rear end of the grip and the hinge from the folding stock. About 2 or 3 mm should be fine.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today's 20 minute sprint is dremel out resin for housing the trigger lever....its in the right position horizontally. Need to still adjust vertically by keeping the trigger at maximum throw position. Armorture wire will be used to keep trigger lever component in place using CA glue. Will use a 1/16" drill bit to make the holes for the wires.

 

P.s. I think I'm good now for the grip position relative to the folding stock hinge.

083ab3d2e1899563452fda9939a8b255.jpg215c7e8ff3057743f5778c3c60d0e2ca.jpg

3322a321403cba5d21142b597b577a77.jpga220475e390124935ca18b58b984e599.jpg9a3ce76e94f1c5fb2a4a53e71f976ded.jpg52f262241ff15d1608f3afc2e97d84fc.jpgec6deaf01a4295f6fe87a75459b2c2fa.jpg42efb73433781e056223b9e0fe0fc16d.jpga0519a71735ee97ee6712f74f952dc72.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I gathered up the courage to carve into the receiver tube today. I carved out only enough to make the grip and magazine housing sit flush on the tube. This way, there's more surface area for glue.

 

In dremeling out the resin I would hit the inner black hard plastic. I felt it to be pretty malleable so not too bad to take away.

 

It was really encouraging to see the individual parts fitted together - resembling a blaster!!!

 

Still keeping to safety on the project: respirator, protective glasses, vacuum, and ear plugs. Wanna stay healthy by the end of it.

 

fb1b4a437bbc67ac60364152680bf364.jpg

 

bda52116c6630f8225c9cca59098130d.jpg

 

95f5d658932e456488406989c396c456.jpg

 

239b4e0145bfd4276449d6f9669d2747.jpg

 

d7340f5e3a84815fac05e3491a7cdbde.jpg

 

39880fe1e1e1afbbe9f119710e768406.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello everybody, more updates ...

 

I gathered up the courage to carve into the receiver tube today. I carved out only enough to make the grip and magazine housing sit flush on the tube. This way, there's more surface area for glue. In dremeling out the resin I would hit the inner black hard plastic. I felt it to be pretty malleable so not too bad to take away. It was really encouraging to see the individual parts fitted together - resembling a blaster!!! Still keeping to safety on the project: respirator, protective glasses, vacuum, and ear plugs. Wanna stay healthy by the end of it.

 

42880789881_b6ba54b44e_z.jpg

 

42880790841_d9f8c0d5e9_z.jpg

 

42832615292_b9e87c8357_z.jpg

 

42880792361_6314dffec2_z.jpg

 

42832613902_cf69252a4f_z.jpg

 

Now, I decided to undo some mods for my magazine housing - now have it hallowed through!

Though I originally decided to stop short of hollowing and install magnets to keep the magazine in place, decided to install my Lipo battery in the housing instead so simply removing the magazine would reveal the battery to access charging.

 

It took some undoing to get the magnets out but finally did it. For the magazine, still managed for keeping the magazine roller spring but cut the spring short and installed a platform inside the magazine to hold the base. Pretty happy to retain this mod.

 

Oh.....and one other CRAZY thing I managed to pull off - dremeled out the exposed bolt! I needed to do so to install the BlastFX mother board and also allow me to I stall the LED and speakers good. I tried my best to retain the bolt as I had already modified it ... I will see how much I need to redo with green stuff. Now, I mind as well redo the extractor and plunger.

 

Also did a test install of my trigger lever component- at a later stage, will have to add CA glue to secure the armature wire holding the component in place.

 

42880792041_3086fe6bed_z.jpg

 

41070835490_76c9b7ce82_z.jpg

 

42880790701_ed1a9bcd5d_z.jpg

 

42880791101_2009d6872d_z.jpg

 

42832615072_f24d09cd7d_z.jpg

 

42880791231_d72242b95a_z.jpg

 

42880793311_857db2cfe1_z.jpg

 

42832615912_440cdbb4f7_z.jpg

 

42880792561_26a6c88bfb_z.jpg

 

42880792191_e1bc802376_z.jpg

 

42880792641_56955bae53_z.jpg

 

42880790021_aa657202a9_z.jpg

 

41070835860_5e6f7b1743_z.jpg

 

42832615702_fd96bdaa81_z.jpg

 

42880791911_d24ae1ee10_z.jpg

 

42832614152_cd4dfcfcc8_z.jpg

 

42880790901_5db60e1c34_z.jpg

 

42832614372_67319b6c1d_z.jpg

 

42880791031_b03c8d93e0_z.jpg

 

42880791401_df8ddc6476_z.jpg

 

42880792831_1aa8b28656_z.jpg

 

28012103407_ef31ebe216_z.jpg

 

42880790031_9da90f9917_z.jpg

 

42880790491_7d2df80de6_z.jpg

 

42832614632_ed937ea31e_z.jpg

 

42880791231_d72242b95a_z.jpg

 

42880793151_d81d5a3903_z.jpg

 

42880789831_37a9c159a9_z.jpg

 

Thanks for taking the time; have a great day!

 

Edited by Dracotrooper
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rumble motor is going to be killer. Love that and wish my blaster had it. So many great photos of your work and lots of ideas for a future blaster build. Thanks Jesse for keeping this build epic. Inspiring work for many other troopers to follow. Insert other media

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rumble motor is going to be killer. Love that and wish my blaster had it. So many great photos of your work and lots of ideas for a future blaster build. Thanks Jesse for keeping this build epic. Inspiring work for many other troopers to follow. Insert other media
Hey Brian! Thanks for dropping by Totally... Paul's BlastFX is great for having that rumble motor feature.

It's been a long haul, but I am seeing glimmers of light at the end of the tunnel. As its recommended to focus on SMG ahead of prop master additions for painting - aiming for finishing assembling SMG components first ... This taking time as the electronics are interwoven to it. I know I'll get to this build goal...with the warmer weather here (wrinkle plus has temperature requirements to work good) and a handful of the right paints ready to go, want to push hard for completing the SMG part of the blaster.

And thanks also for cheering me on! Will keep to task for sure!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now I focus on some of the smaller component parts that get attached to the receiver tube.

 

 I reinforced the pieces, front and rear sight, flash guard and other guard with armature wire and also trying to figure out the install location of the end clip.

 

42880791691_0745d8bbda_z.jpg

 

42880793071_6e913124f0_z.jpg

 

42880790651_c88c973b4f_z.jpg

 

Can someone tell me the correct position for the end clip? I seem to recall there's a video showing how it works....can someone point me to it? In a nut shell, pressing down on the back end of the end clip will raise the 'T' portion to allow for the end cap to rotate for removal...is that correct in terms of functionality?

 

28070815167_c25f4f16ba_z.jpg

 

Also, I am curious, based on the malleable nature of armature wire; is there any concern that CA glue applied to it will 'eat into' the armorture wire and compromise it's integrity? Especially concerned as I have armature wire that keep the trigger lever component in the right place and orientation...if it were to be compromised, the trigger lever will not operate the electronics, a real bummer I want to curve any chance of happening.

 

42832614832_44d880d67e_z.jpg

 

Thanks for taking the time; have a great day!

Edited by Dracotrooper
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Again great progress, Jesse. :duim: I am really curious to see, what you will be doing with the inner bolt section...

40 minutes ago, Dracotrooper said:

(...)   I seem to recall there's a video showing how it works....can someone point me to it?   (...)

Guessing you meant this video from Aaron, or the one from myself.

 

I know I said this before Jesse, but this build is absolutely outstanding - from each and every aspect! Keep that up.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The end cap clip should only engage when the cap is pushed in. When the spring is pushing it back and into position the pin in the clip should NOT be engaged and will be clear.  How you have it looks about right but double check some reference.

 

If you have it engaged when the spring is pushing it away, like I do as I only realised after I'd painted it, when you push the cap in to turn it it will rub on the U section and remove the paint.  Also it's not how the real ones where.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Again great progress, Jesse. :duim: I am really curious to see, what you will be doing with the inner bolt section... Guessing you meant this video from Aaron, or the one from myself.

I know I said this before Jesse, but this build is absolutely outstanding - from each and every aspect! Keep that up.

 

Thanks Tino for the encouraging words! I will keep at it!  I am pretty elated about taking out the exposed bolt. Funny to see the resin and black plastic rectangle pieces just fall out. I now have an exposed bolt piece acting as a cover to the inner tube? We will see...:) Thanks for the video links!

 

11 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Tino beat me to it. https://youtu.be/CYVmP_k9rIw

 

Cheers Brian! ;)

 

11 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

The end cap clip should only engage when the cap is pushed in. When the spring is pushing it back and into position the pin in the clip should NOT be engaged and will be clear.  How you have it looks about right but double check some reference. If you have it engaged when the spring is pushing it away, like I do as I only realised after I'd painted it, when you push the cap in to turn it it will rub on the U section and remove the paint.  Also it's not how the real ones where.

 

Roger that Chris, excellent description on the do's and don'ts for the end cap clip. Thanks for sharing your experience; most helpful :duim:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello everybody,

 

I have a brief update. I believe now, in comparing the position of my clip with T-Jay and Aaron's (FISD) positions in their respective videos, that mines in the right spot.

 

28064404627_2bf2ca562b_z.jpg

 

I now have understanding on how the end cap clip works to engage the end cap for removal of it, I proceeded to figure out how to best install it. Since I had limited height when it came to depressing the end cap clip lever, I decided to add green stuff to the receiver tube to elevate the clip. So this way, when rotating the end cap, it would be clear of the lever head of the clip.

 

29060595928_bc7e3edcc3_z.jpg

 

I also noticed allot of excess resin in and around the end of the receiver tube. I cleaned some up then went to dremel out the three notches that hold the tabs found on the inside of the cap - this to secure the end cap in place I'm sure.

 

42884313702_a05a565491_z.jpg

 

42933730631_14c44a9881_z.jpg

 

Finally, I'm at a point where I try to fit all the BlastFX wiring inside the blaster. Task proved difficult. Will do better at wire management.

 

28064433497_af5443edb5_z.jpg

 

Thanks a bunch again for reading!

Edited by Dracotrooper
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi everybody,

 

I had a scenario last night that could have made me very discouraged but I've stayed on top! While taking away BlastFX from my doopydoos blaster having done a test fit, I accidently ripped one of the wires to my on/off switch! By this time, I've already soldered four wires to my selector switch ... so I was able to keep my cool. With careful attention to detail and keeping it cool, I did a decent solder job with heat shrink tubing to boot! Really happy how I was able to recover from this mishap. So glad I made my soldering station with all the supplies in tow and ready to go! I was back in the race before I knew it.

 

29085169228_43b42397c4_z.jpg

 

42238828164_33b801f581_z.jpg

 

In having flushed out the notches on the end cap part of things, I decided to continue with the detailing by creating the buttplate spring plate as seen from the folding stock handle. I used styrene plastic via score and snap method. Will use E-6000 to glue.

 

29085081748_10a21a27ab_z.jpg

 

42055706435_5b46e0bf76_z.jpg

 

cheers!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎6‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 3:29 AM, pwhitrow said:

Really impressed with the work you're doing here dude, great job.

 

18 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Lovin the added detail inside the folding stock window. Going that extra mile!

 

I'm trying my best Paul and Brian - thanks guys

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...