CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 No ignorance at all, Dan. All fine. The lens I am talking about is item #34 (reticle lens to install a crosshair into a hollowed scope) To get a clear reading of the engravings, they need to be magnified by the large lens in your scope. But this will only work, if the distance between crosshair and magnifying lens is correct. See red arrow in the second picture. Ah yes - ironic that I failed to read the part about ‘lenses’. Lol Thanks you. I’ve gone back through my kit and found the reticle lens. Based on what you’ve said, I’ll re-attach the lens housing that I cut apart. I’ll drill out the inside further to fit the larger housing in. Should be a relatively easy fix. Whilst I’ve got you, I’ve been trialing my end cap clip. The Doopy’s part is smaller than the aluminium channel. Would you suggest cutting down the channel to match?I’m also still not sure whether to use the Doopy’s trigger guard or keep working this aluminium one? Thanks in advance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 12 hours ago, CableGuy said: (...) The Doopy’s part is smaller than the aluminium channel. Would you suggest cutting down the channel to match? (...) (...) I’m also still not sure whether to use the Doopy’s trigger guard or keep working this aluminium one? (...) Yes. Due to rough cutting, the aluminum channels are always a little bit longer and do need some fine trimming. I would say, go for the aluminum trigger guard because it looks much more accurate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Yes. Due to rough cutting, the aluminum channels are always a little bit longer and do need some fine trimming. I would say, go for the aluminum trigger guard because it looks much more accurate. Perfect - cheers, Tino. I’ll cut another strip of aluminium and have another go at shaping the trigger guard with enough metal to screw it in place. The piece I have would currently have to be glued - not sure that that would take many knocks before it came off. Thanks again. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) To save you from building the trigger guard again, you can glue it in place and add green stuff on both ends. Once hardened, this will give additional support. That is how I did it and so far it worked well. Another reason: there are no visible screws in that place on the original Sterling. Edited October 9, 2017 by T-Jay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 To save you from building the trigger guard again, you can glue it in place and add green stuff on both ends. Once hardened, this will give additional support. That is how I did it and so far it worked well. Another reason: there are no visible screws in that place on the original Sterling. Fantastic. I’ll give that a go. Great way to disguise that front screw too, as you say. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Evening all,So, I went back to my aluminium trigger guard (thanks Tino) and started to reshape it. I then started to smooth the edges. I also reattached my lens housing, (superglue), hollowed a little more out of my scope and test fitted the lens. I’ll attach the reticle lens soon. Cheers. Dan :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Looking good, Dan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 On 10/8/2017 at 9:41 AM, T-Jay said: ...Loving your extra effort to make the T-tracks looking like additional parts. Haven't seen this before (at least I can't remember) and these days it gets harder and harder to show a modification, that hasn't been done before. An excellent detail... Yeah Tino, I agree - awesome seeing Dan trail blaze that mod with the t-tracks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Trigger guard is looking fantastic! And great seeing your scope coming together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Yeah Tino, I agree - awesome seeing Dan trail blaze that mod with the t-tracks You guys are too kind. In all honesty, I’m just taking inspiration from the many superb builds on here. Although I’m really pleased to hear that the t-tracks might be something a little bit different. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Evening everyone. So, I was thinking about my blaster and realised that I wasn’t going to be happy with the inner front end of the folding stock - specifically, the inner tube mod only running part way. Primarily because I knew it could be seen from the side. As I knew I wanted to keep a decent amount of resin for the front locking screw to attach, I decided to run the aluminium pipe the whole way - with a mod, of course. After lots of resin shaving, I achieved a suitable shape. I cut the aluminium tube in half, just big enough to cover the screw stump. Quite pleased with the result. With hindsight, I could have left a few more millimetres on either side to cover a little more ‘stump’. Aside from that, I replaced the fake screws on the Hengslter counter and the mag housing. Also added the tiny grub screw to the front sight block. Getting there. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 First-rate work on the grub screw installation for your carved-out sight block - It's making the piece pop with detail! As for the lower-front portion of the inner rod you cut away, what you can do to hide the 'stump' is to cut out two pieces of plastic to rectangular shape and put a heat gun to it, and making it flush to say the rod, to form it's shape. I would then use E-6000 to glue the plastic pieces to the aluminum inner rod. I am thinking the versatility of E-6000 will do the trick as Tino's glue provided is excellent for resin to resin contact I believe. If you want to retain the aluminum look, would rub-n-buff do well here? Not entirely sure. Never used the product. Anyways, hope this helps! My two cents Dan! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Cheers for the above, Jesse. :-)Right, a little extra done to the sight. Side notches added. Also, is my counter position looking okay (before I drill in). Thanks in advance. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Double posted. :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 6 hours ago, CableGuy said: Also, is my counter position looking okay (before I drill in). The position of the counter on the scope looks good to me, Dan. The only thing I would suggest, is to move both parts a bit closer towards the end cap. Not sure where it came from, but I always install the scopes with the rear foot aligned above the folding stock hinges. Does that make any sense?! However, it doesn't have to be like that. Maybe you want to check some photos in the Blaster Reference for this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 I couldn't help to look up the reference for you - Tino is spot on about alignment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Ah yes... I think my eagerness to get some bits together early on meant that I failed to check and just followed the pre-drilled pilot holes. Your scope rail is probably the same, Jesse, so you can learn from my mistakes. lol I've looked at some other builds and some are slightly different, for example with the end of the scope itself in line with the stock bolt, rather than the scope foot; however, the more accurate reference pictures go with Tino's positioning. No surprise there. ;-) I'll have another look when I get home. Any tips for filling a hole in metal? Still greenstuff? Thanks guys. I've booked a half day tomorrow so can hopefully make some solid progress. :-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 4 hours ago, CableGuy said: Ah yes... I think my eagerness to get some bits together early on meant that I failed to check and just followed the pre-drilled pilot holes. Your scope rail is probably the same, Jesse, so you can learn from my mistakes. lol I've looked at some other builds and some are slightly different, for example with the end of the scope itself in line with the stock bolt, rather than the scope foot; however, the more accurate reference pictures go with Tino's positioning. No surprise there. ;-) ... Yeah, the benefits of stretching out my build is to learn from others - another reason to stay connected! Yeah, I'm turning to the reference and to Tino for accuracy myself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Yeah, the benefits of stretching out my build is to learn from others - another reason to stay connected! Yeah, I'm turning to the reference and to Tino for accuracy myself. And, with you being US based, you’re probably at least 5 hours behind my mistakes!! Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 8 minutes ago, CableGuy said: And, with you being US based, you’re probably at least 5 hours behind my mistakes!! Lol lol, I guess it's built in that I have you to benefit from but, um, have you seen how much 'green stuff' I have on my build! - 'hands like a surgeon' (Brian) hands like a surgeon Dan, you got this! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 lol, I guess it's built in that I have you to benefit from but, um, have you seen how much 'green stuff' I have on my build! - 'hands like a surgeon' (Brian) hands like a surgeon Dan, you got this! Hehe. Cheers pal. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 Glad you decided to hack out the resin folding mech in the stock. Looks better as one whole part even though you don’t really see it , but you know it’s there! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 17 hours ago, CableGuy said: (...) I've looked at some other builds and some are slightly different, for example with the end of the scope itself in line with the stock bolt, rather than the scope foot; however, the more accurate reference pictures go with Tino's positioning. No surprise there. ;-) I'll have another look when I get home. Any tips for filling a hole in metal? Still greenstuff? (...) Like said before, it doesn't have to be like that. You can use the pre-drilled pilot holes or close them with your green stuff. It all comes down to your personal taste and preference. Half a day off??? Uuuh, we're expecting LOADS of progress here on FISD in such cases. - feeling the pressure rising already? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 Like said before, it doesn't have to be like that. You can use the pre-drilled pilot holes or close them with your green stuff. It all comes down to your personal taste and preference. Half a day off??? Uuuh, we're expecting LOADS of progress here on FISD in such cases. - feeling the pressure rising already? Hehe. Yeah, no pressure!! LolRegarding the scope etc, that’s such a simple fix I’d rather do it and be that little bit more screen accurate. I’m already wishing the morning away and planning a to-do list in my head, including;Finish end cap clipInner folding stock tube and fitting Finish power cylindersWork on flash guardsMake a start on internal boltCan’t wait. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted October 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 Hi guys, I embraced the pressure and got a few more bits done. As always, I thought I’d get more done than I did, but it’s okay. :-) Started by repositioning the scope. Simple job - just need to fill he holes. Next, moved on to the end cap and clip. Added the hole on the cap. Then started pivot testing to get a working end cap clip. Currently using an unfinished nail as the pivot. Fitted the end cap clip and tested. All works just like a genuine sterling. I then fabricated the hinge part for the folding stock. Just an old piece of wood, cut and sanded to size. As it’s not going to be functional, I used a dome headed nail to hold the tube to the hinge end. Packed it with electrical tape to keep it tight. And that’s all she wrote for today. I’m really pleased with how it went today, even if it doesn’t look like much of a change from before. I think I’ll remove the end cap clip as it could be fitted straighter. Again, that’s mostly be being fussy. No resistance yet as I’ve not installed a ‘spring’ (aka folded plastic part). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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