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CableGuy's DoopyDoos (feat. T-Jay kit) ANH E-11 WIP


CableGuy

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### UPDATE 03/02/2018 - for any new readers, (spoiler alert), this blaster is now complete. There is a link to my ‘highlights’ video below;

 

 

Happy reading:)

 

———————————

 

 

 

 

Hi all,

 

Excitedly received news today that my DoopyDoos E-11 kit has been dispatched. Ordered on July 28th so under a month. The team kept me up to date and advised that the moulds they had were past their best - as such, these new moulds will hopefully lead to a crisp and detailed moulding.

 

I've had T-Jay's completion kit for a couple of weeks now and look forward to starting my build.

 

6cebf8d7d6d3225f73c27ceeaeccd3cd.jpg

 

I've seen some outstanding builds posted on here but will be going a little more straight forward for my first build. I still want to create a lovely looking blaster but not sure mine will be quite as fancy as some. :-)

 

Might not be starting straight away as I am in the middle of my armour build (below): 

 

 

Can't wait to start. 

 

All the best,

Dan :-)

 

Edited by CableGuy
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Hi Dan, glad to see you started a build thread :duim: Hoping you will receive your resin kit soon to keep us entertained here


Funny you should mention that. Look what arrived today. :-)

2a0d7030530e8625e9cd8a5f82321bc4.jpg

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Can't wait to start. :-)


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Hehe. Yeah, bank holiday weekend here in the U.K. 3-day weekend!! (Well, 4 for me as I had today as holiday).

I might get some time to start. I spent most of the day on my armour. Lots of sanding and fitting the strapping.

 

I'll go over a few more builds, (namely yours, CTID's, Chris aka themaninthesuitcase and the reference PDF that you produced) before going to far.

The moulds looks sharp though. Not that I much experience to base that on. ;-)

 

 

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Damn it's more than 3 months that I wait this kit, many many emails with no answers, nexy step I ask paypal refund, but I need a blaster!!!!!


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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

 

As my armour is very close to completion, I cleared (believe me, its better than it was) a work space ready for my blaster build. I've prepared a whole compliment of Dremel accessories, files, brand new set of drill bits, etc. and my completion kit from Tino.

 

61ffb7484ffd90d0e8a71bfdb2fd8440.jpg

 

b706c30c53c41d1ce13729766087f3a9.jpg

 

 

Respirator and safety googles at the ready also.

 

Can't wait to start!!! :-)

 

 

 

 

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Evening all,

I'm pleased to say that I've started on my E-11 build. Fire up the Dremel!!

 

I'm roughly following the order of the E-11 reference PDF, so started with the "lock/free" screw.

 

485838af4948a1eddb9a6dee34b2dbe6.jpg

 

6c375173b1ea55d52d8e5b57400779a1.jpg

 

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Then moved on to drilling the extra holes on the underside.

 

c35deb2526d9c1e67d613d3d64e7d576.jpg

 

05d63bef612a3fed5af5e59f557c5e70.jpg

 

da34318d39eb5875f5c5a86c73b30aab.jpg

 

a461a00bfc8c3d945170f4aa0efc8dfb.jpg

 

And just for fun...

 

1ea17e5afdac267f0da73541b10d0a8b.jpg

 

 

Learning lots about how tools and resin react. Learning curve and all that.

 

 

On a different note, the end cap has a very shiny face, perhaps where it came out of a mould. I'll put pics below - any tips on how to tidy it up, please?

 

8c24aef0ecd246f01e6b5342ead4aae0.jpg

 

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That's exccess resin, mine came pre-sanded.  Ideally youd offer it to something like a bent sander to remove that exccess but care with a dremel will do the same job.  I don't have a great photo handy but you want to get rid of just the excess.

 

When they molded it it looks like they just stuck that surface to a board to pour the mold so you can see the line where the mold stops, and the part starts.

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4 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

Here's how my end cap came in the mail - no modifications. I hope my use of shadow accentuates the curves on the piece for you.

77f707b7b7e46b86e3d09fddf65fd472.jpg

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Have fun and hope this helps some emoji6.png

 

I'll certainly be keeping an eye on your build, Jesse. :-)

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Hiya. A bit more work this eve.

Tidied up the holes on the underside using a 9/10mm (approx) Dremel sander. Still some final tidying to do, including the different shaped one where the folding stock would mount.

22a73aed619ff3964e8c8b9c492c4bf3.jpg


Also removed the fake bolts from the folding stock and replaced with carriage bolts (not solidly fitted yet).

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As I don't have a precise measure for circular objects, I decided to use an adjustable spanner, measure the outside of the object, then measure the spanner gap.

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Cheers,
Dan :-)


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Hi all,

 

Managed to squeeze in an hour last night. Carried on with the grip by removing the fake screw underneath and replacing with a real one. A little annoying I don't have a pillar drill - the hole for the thread to settle into isn't perfectly straight/perpendicular, but I think I've just about got away with it. :-)

 

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Also started removing the excess resin from the end cap.

 

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Hi all,

I've been working on the trigger mod today. I'm struggling though.

It seems that the trigger guard is in the way when the trigger sits at a resting position. This means that the trigger cannot move back and forth.

 

a40cac4954cc902fdb99795ad857cf94.jpg

 

Spring not left this long - cut to about 8-10mm

ae7283c2b8aa94540701e04ad095dd96.jpg

 

This is how the trigger hangs.

ff0db83a4666c02ec7b2058fb1770c15.jpg

 

This shows the maximum "pull" of the trigger.

96e6d12ee9621eae04aba1669347be87.jpg

 

This raises two questions. 1: how far should the trigger travel?

2: how do I stop the trigger from springing back too far? I.e., how do I set a maximum return?

 

 

In other news, did some more work on the stock today.

 

8e7d7878bd4bbd0eef932701ef061c5b.jpg

 

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(Made a slight mistake with the hole nearest to the rest at the muzzle end)

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48ae9820d293fdd2cd6d0b94ab8ef5c7.jpg

 

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Cheers.

Dan :-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cheers guys. Appreciate your comments.
I'm trying my hardest to keep my patience, however the big kid in me just wants to put it together and make 'pew pew' sounds. ;-)


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Hey Dan, great progress so far. Yes, hollowing the folding stock is a time consuming thing but you did it good and that little mistake can be fixed with the "green stuff" or something similar.

Now onto your trigger problem:

13 hours ago, CableGuy said:

96e6d12ee9621eae04aba1669347be87.jpg

 

13 hours ago, CableGuy said:

(...)   It seems that the trigger guard is in the way when the trigger sits at a resting position. This means that the trigger cannot move back and forth.   (...)

 

(...)   This raises two questions. 1: how far should the trigger travel?

2: how do I stop the trigger from springing back too far? I.e., how do I set a maximum return?   (...)

This is a typical issue on a DoopyDoo's blaster build, because the trigger guard is thicker than the original ones (resin is fragile) and it also is placed slightly closer to the trigger. If you study reference pictures you will notice the upper mounting point is mislocated. You can build you own trigger guard from aluminum to correct this.

 

To question 1: The "maximum pull of the trigger" on your above photo looks okay, but you can go deeper to win more room for trigger movement.

To question 2: The upper end of your trigger (next to that nail) will "push" against the resin in your grip piece. You can add a tiny plastic piece there to stop it earlier.

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Hi Tino,
Excellent advice, thank you. I see what you mean about the size of the DD trigger guard.

2a98379437ed90df5815804822cfeb28.jpg

As you suggested, I think I'll try making a replacement out of aluminium.

Re the max trigger movement, I'll sort the trigger guard first, then look at fitting a stopper. :-)

Thanks again. :-)


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