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RS Props build by Mr V


Mr V

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From building my FX kit i learnt the following points;

1) Refer to forum.

2) Measure twice cut once

3) Dont use a strong glue that will melt your ABS.

4) Refer to forum.

 

I always start a project by making up some reference sheets i can easily carry around. Sheet 3 will be my helmet sheet (TBC).

36247157940_07e9576ab7_z.jpg

 

36474217682_028282d7b0_z.jpg

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I will not be showing every edge i trim and not sure where to start so have started with some of the smaller pieces.

 

I love my wonky RS kit. I knew what to expect and it is more important to me to have something based on an original suit than a sanitized version (but i do like those also, just had to make a choice).

In terms of strapping i will be using snaps for durability. I am not convinced that brackets are a good long term trooping option.

 

Ab buttons were pretty straight forward. Gave the corners a bit of a sand mainly because everything else on the kit has rounded corners or edges.

36643166025_cf5659f175_z.jpg

 

From there i am contemplating the shoulder bells.  I think these measurements are correct.  But i will not be cutting these until the torso is complete as i want minimal black showing between the shoulder and chest.

36643165765_db0c5089fa_z.jpg

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Good news. Thermal detonator today. BOOM.

36522736971_ccb3423bbc_z.jpg

 

 

Straight forward jobs today. Cover strips attached to the biceps and made up some snaps. I have used marine snaps as they are very good quality.

 

36287030730_f01b614679_z.jpg

 

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Thanks. They do look good. Its the main reason why i have to move on from my FX kit.

 

Shouting out for help here. So do i cut where the blue arrow is (Ab section) or do i cut the Kidney section (red arrow). Cutting in thees places i lose my return edges....Or do i go with number 3 as most of this area is covered by the belt.

 

The good news is i dont need shims on the sides so pretty happy about that.

 

35875776504_34a2d7d945_z.jpg

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Scoring and snapping the ABS sheets for the cover strips. Iv got to say RS have provided plenty of extra ABS for the kit.

I tried experimenting with gluing the cover strips first and the back strips as well. No difference really. I think if i did them both at the same time quality would suffer. ie glue everywhere.

The larger image shows the asymetrical nature of the hand sculpted world of ANH. Love it.

 

36719985136_f85cac848f_z.jpg

36764893906_f627e01be0_z.jpg

Edited by Mr V
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On 21/08/2017 at 9:49 PM, Mr V said:

Thanks. They do look good. Its the main reason why i have to move on from my FX kit.

 

Shouting out for help here. So do i cut where the blue arrow is (Ab section) or do i cut the Kidney section (red arrow). Cutting in thees places i lose my return edges....Or do i go with number 3 as most of this area is covered by the belt.

 

The good news is i dont need shims on the sides so pretty happy about that.

 

35875776504_34a2d7d945_z.jpg

 

On 26/08/2017 at 5:47 AM, themaninthesuitcase said:

I'd start by trimming the excess on the ab plate and the positioning should be far more obvious.

 

What he said ^^

 

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On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 7:49 AM, Mr V said:

Thanks. They do look good. Its the main reason why i have to move on from my FX kit.

 

Shouting out for help here. So do i cut where the blue arrow is (Ab section) or do i cut the Kidney section (red arrow). Cutting in thees places i lose my return edges....Or do i go with number 3 as most of this area is covered by the belt.

 

The good news is i dont need shims on the sides so pretty happy about that.

 

35875776504_34a2d7d945_z.jpg

I'd go with photo 1. You need to trim off that floppy part of the top of the ab anyways. I had the same dilemma regarding the notch, ultimately because I'm short I had to remake the notch anyways. But the CRL isn't exactly clear on where the notch is suppose to be. Ideally it aligns like you have it in photo 2 but not all the TKs had this. if you look at the reference photos of the RS suit, the notch is in a different position on the left side compared to the right so there appears to be some flexibility on this point. Ultimately it's all covered by the belt so you're not gonna see it anyways. 

 

If you're taller, or approximately in that 5'-10" sweet spot you may not have to trim anything. I'd align the pieces like in photo 1 and put the but piece in there as well to see how it falls relative to the other pieces. Ideally it fits in perfectly with it swooping underneath to meet up with the cod.

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Started the shins. Not even a close match but i can see why. RS has used the same mold for the left and right sections for each calf (I think). The bra hook holes can clearly be seen at the rear. The top fronts were glued to match. everything else can be trimmed to fit the boots.  If its like my FX kit hopefully once the bra hooks are attached they will pull together and line up at the top.

 

I will certainly need to do some trimming at the bottoms once i fit them with boots on.  

36996289675_8170b15888_z.jpgShins front

 

36160415264_30ba4505d4_z.jpgShins back

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On 8/28/2017 at 0:10 PM, Mr V said:

Quick design sketch for the belt construction. I also scaled up the original RS belt on my ipad and matched it as best as i could with some canvas. The weave seems pretty close.

 

36029412134_c7e82570c0_z.jpgTK belt construction

 

 

 

 

A lot of people build their belt flat like this but there's a better way in my opinion. The belt is best built curved. Set the center rivet and put the belt on your body over the ab and kidney plates.  Then mark the location of the outer holes. Remember covering your schoolbooks?  If you covered them while flat, they wouldn't close. Building the belt flat is the number one reason people blow out rivets or crack the plastic on the belt packs. 

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7 hours ago, Addertime said:

 

 

A lot of people build their belt flat like this but there's a better way in my opinion. The belt is best built curved. Set the center rivet and put the belt on your body over the ab and kidney plates.  Then mark the location of the outer holes. Remember covering your schoolbooks?  If you covered them while flat, they wouldn't close. Building the belt flat is the number one reason people blow out rivets or crack the plastic on the belt packs. 

Good idea. I might even try to add a washer to increase the surface area against the ABS.

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Time to tackle the thighs. Plenty of excess to trim. Using my long ruler i started with a base line on the edge of the raised area. Then measured 10mm from this to give the cut line. (20mm cover strip for the thigh fronts).

37180033105_a7b6bc8c7c_z.jpgTK thighs

 

Double checked the cover strip would be nice and even down the front. The top and bottom edges are not exactly matching so you have to find a happy medium. 

36343282654_3678ca6da9_z.jpgTK thighs

 

On a side note: Ordered my extra magnets from China 1 month ago-still not arrived! and i have almost finished. erhh!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

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