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TKC WIP for SL13770


DTCorvus

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Here we go with my WIP thread for my TKC. Followed are the pictures I have so far from working on my bucket. 

 

This first setup the taping off for laying down the blue stripe and showing the anchors on the ear caps.

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The next two are showing the completion of three layers of 3 different shades of blue; Royal, Brilliant and Spa. Some of the fine worn areas were achieved by using liquid latex as a masking agent. Also if you stand back and mist the paint in spurts you can get the speckled effect. I also brushed on a  some Transparent Oriental Blue and Blue Metallic for highlights.

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Weathering!!!!

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Here are the two squirrel fans I have installed on the backside of my mic tip. I used 1" screws to attach them. 

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Testing out the white noise generator…I mean fans in my helmet. 

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Now I have to figure out how to stop the fans from vibrating my helmet. At the moment they are attached to a longer screw behind the mic tips. I'm wondering if I should glue down the other side to the helmet, will that do the trick?

 

After this I will be getting one of those "whisper 2000" sound amplifiers and mod'ing it to fit in my helmet. That way I can hear what is being said to me. I have seen a couple of different ones at Harbor Freight and they are pretty inexpensive.

Edited by DTCorvus
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Ooooh!  Ooooh!  Man, this is one costume that is hard to get right and you are off on a great first step.  Usually the weathering is too abrupt, but you are ROCKING IT!  

 

Do try to go Centurion on this - we have so few TKC Centurions and it would be great to replace me as the CRL model.  Mine was the best of the best at the time, but people can do so much better nowadays.

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On 7/9/2017 at 7:28 AM, Daetrin said:

Ooooh!  Ooooh!  Man, this is one costume that is hard to get right and you are off on a great first step.  Usually the weathering is too abrupt, but you are ROCKING IT!  

 

Do try to go Centurion on this - we have so few TKC Centurions and it would be great to replace me as the CRL model.  Mine was the best of the best at the time, but people can do so much better nowadays.

Thank you very much. I think Centurion may not be a possibility since I am using an Anovos TK kit and there are a few things that aren't that level on that kit. Maybe down the road.  

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You should be able to take it to the top! You're doing good so far! What do you think is stopping you? I'll be starting a TKC next week when I pick up my WTF kit. I'll keep an eye on your build.

Keep up the great work especially when our leader gives you props!

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2 hours ago, magni said:

You should be able to take it to the top! You're doing good so far! What do you think is stopping you? I'll be starting a TKC next week when I pick up my WTF kit. I'll keep an eye on your build.

Keep up the great work especially when our leader gives you props!

It's the O2 Scrubber/Thermal detonator and the gloves. The Anovos kit is ANH and my rubber gloves don't have the rubber/latex hand guards. I think that's really it. 

 

Thank you very much for the compliment and I hope to get this done by years end.

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That's easy. You can pick up a control panel from CFO or scratch build game style( my choice to do ) and you can get flexible hand guards from a few friendly vendors here. 

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16 minutes ago, magni said:

That's easy. You can pick up a control panel from CFO or scratch build game style( my choice to do ) and you can get flexible hand guards from a few friendly vendors here. 

Two things…CFO? And where are good images of the game control panel?

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CFO - Cast From Original info in this thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/?page=1

 

 

Edited by gmrhodes13
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys,

Just started the TKC myself. I'm trimming and slowly assembling the armor. Quite easy as I just finished my TK.

I won't be able to get the Centurion level on this one as some parts of the armor were already trimmed and are too short to be used with the overlapping method. On this point, I think the CRL is quite wrong but it is what it is. The armor is from a video game, there are no indication about how the armor was made or not. At the end, I hope to be able to reach level two for this one and honestly, I like the butt joints and cover strip method because it gives more core to the armor parts that are heavily solicited during trooping.

I'll try to put some pictures...

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎5‎/‎08‎/‎2017 at 9:56 PM, Dauph197 said:

Hi guys,

Just started the TKC myself. I'm trimming and slowly assembling the armor. Quite easy as I just finished my TK.

I won't be able to get the Centurion level on this one as some parts of the armor were already trimmed and are too short to be used with the overlapping method. On this point, I think the CRL is quite wrong but it is what it is. The armor is from a video game, there are no indication about how the armor was made or not. At the end, I hope to be able to reach level two for this one and honestly, I like the butt joints and cover strip method because it gives more core to the armor parts that are heavily solicited during trooping.

I'll try to put some pictures...

 

CRL's are often updated, new reference material comes to light, if you have proof/evidence of what you believe is wrong with the CRL then post it, I'm sure others would be happy to see ;)

 

Yes the armor is from a game and not made by hand but you are replicating how it looks on the screen, not how much easier it is to wear ;) 

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4 hours ago, DTCorvus said:

I found a Facebook page for a CFO and talked to a guy about getting his casting/formed RotJ TD control plate. I think it's the same guy I got the rubber trim from but not completely sure.

Good news, looking forward to the progress

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I got the white trim but was unable to get the 5-bouton plate. However, I did one myself… not the cleanest job in the world but will try to diminish the cut line with potty. 

So tomorrow I'm heading to the paint shop. I'm still waiting my trim so I won't be able to complete chest and back plates. It's moving in the good direction though...

IMG_9571.JPG

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There is certainly something I do not understand with posting pictures. How ridiculous it's look posting a small picture like that?!


I just use a third party, Imgur. That way they will be large enough for everyone to see.


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So I have figured out how to get the rubber/latex backhands for my gloves. Since I have not cut the backhands out of my kit I will just get some white flex seal and cast them using my uncut backhand forms. Then I'll glue them to the gloves. This allows me to have both.


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  • 1 month later...

I have done some more work to my helmet. Sorry it's only been helmet work, but you have to start somewhere. First thing is that I have rewired an assistive listening device to install in my helmet.
tXn6UFc.jpg
I extended the microphone by soldering in a wire of the earbuds that came with the device. Next I took an USB phone cable from one of my wife's old phones and wired it in so that it could run off of a portable USB power supply. I also intent to wire my fans the same way.
Once the wiring was complete, I checked the unit and it works perfectly. So I put the board back into its original casing and installed the mic.
NccFcf2.jpg

As you see I hid the mic in plain view. I took the ear cap off, cut out a circle just big enough for the mic, glued it in place and put the ear cap back. I then painted the exposed metal casing of the mic and the white area from where I cut the hole. You can't even tell it's there.

So after doing a bit of research of rank insignia's for a Stormtrooper commander in duty/dress uniform and I came across the helmet rank bars.
4xtOiBO.jpg
I painted the correct rank bars for being a commander. Originally the rank bar that was colored from Anovos is that of a Warrant Officer. WO in the military is the highest ranking non-commissioned officer there is in the military. Yet with this build being a commander I put the proper markings of a commander aka Lt Colonel.

Next thing is to update the mic tips by changing out the screens. Once that is done I can glue down the squirrel fans so that they stop vibrating my helmet.


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  • 2 weeks later...

On the road to TKC I guess I will be taking the FISD DXO suggestion of attempting to go Centurion. Here is the first step of Anovos conversions, hovi mic tip change.

 

ULbazCg.jpg

 

Top is the Anovos mic tips and the bottom is the converted tips. I used a screen from a $.98 sink drain strainer from Walmart and the tutorial that’s here on the forum. http:// https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36456-anovos-hovi-mic-tip-mod/

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

The newest item I have tackled is the buttons on the ab section of the armor.

TDroMBK.jpg

As you see in the picture I have the Original from Anovos kit next to the 3/8” wood dowls cut down and scrap Sintra to make the 5 button for the TKC.

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Next is the side by side comparison of the Anovos and the new 5 button plate. It is proportional to the original so it doesn’t look off.

Xk2Favy.jpg

Last but not least here it is primed and should be ready for paint here soon.


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  • 3 weeks later...

Newest work on the costume are my boots. Here are they taped off and this is the 3rd coat of paint. The reason the right boot has a little more tape is that I thought that I was going to have to use spray paint over the base acrylic.

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Here they are with the tape removed before attempting to scuff them up.

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WEATHERING!!!!
So instead of the normal acrylic black wash that I normally do, I have found that shoe polish and dye can also be used. I did take some sand paper and scuff up the toes before adding the shoe dye. As with black wash, I applied the polish/dye waited a few seconds and then wiped it off with a semi damp towel.

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Since the stripes are acrylic I have a clear coat that’s designed for acrylic paint, so hopefully it stays. Now as for the black wash that will stay no matter what. So this seems that I have another step mostly finished. I am currently working on making my own flexible hand plates for the rubber gloves. My first attempt was not very successful.
I wouldn’t call it a failure, because as the idea stealing Thomas Edison said “I didn’t fail, I just found a way not to do it.”

Till next time...




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  • 3 weeks later...

I have done some more work, this time making my own rubber backhands for my rubber gloves. Since I have the Anovos TK armor and it’s still in its uncut form, I figure why not use them as a mold.
ed3c6ba68bbae799b0a9eb7b3fc6ba25.jpg

So the first things I did was use about 8 oz of Flex Seal clear and add in some Acrylic paint. This is the artist paint and not the craft kind. From an early experiment I just use the White Flex Seal but it didn’t cure all the way through. It just made a skin and under that was still Flex Seal as a liquid. Now there is something in the paint that helps cure the Flex Seal completely so I do suggest that you mix about one tablespoon of acrylic paint to 8oz of Flex Seal.
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Make sure you put down a release agent before you pour in the mixture. Otherwise it may not release from the mold.
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As you see after letting the mixture set overnight it came out beautifully once removed from the backhand mold.
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Now I have two perfect rubber backhands that just need to be trimmed and attached to my gloves. Since these aren’t silicone regular glue should work. I have industrial strength contact cement, Super 90 as apposed to Super 77 that I might try and use to attach them to the rubber gloves. Firs I will need to trim them a bit to get the to the correct thickness.
Once they are on the gloves I will be able to black wash them to weather them up and then they will be done. Flex Seal is paintable so having the black wash stick is no problem.

So there is a simple way to make Centurion level back hands using your Anovos kit.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are the gloves that came with my Anovos TK kit.

DkTnPaC.jpg

I had to use them to do some work. I wasn’t worried about getting them dirty since when I used them I already had the plan of doing the TKC.

FkWEFE0.jpg

Placement is key and knowing where I need to clean is a must.

GzX3SYY.jpg

I made sure that the area where the backhands are going to be placed. The first glue I attempted to use was 3M Hi Strength 90 contact cement. You would figure that an industrial strength glue would work but it didn’t stick to the backhand.

ALwFyAP.jpg

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So the next glue to be attempted is the good old E6000. So 24 hrs later...I was peeling the E6000 off of the rubber glove. Again this glue didn’t stick to the backhand. I figured that is was rubber and not silicone that the standard glue used in prop and costume building would work. I even tried traditional CA glue (super glue) to no avail.

bOwFu80.jpg

PO3DE03.jpg

So after some research I found out that guy in the R/C world use a rubber infused CA glue for their car tires. I figured that it’s a glue that sticks to rubber why not give it a chance.

sbD7PAD.jpg

QIQ3lMR.jpg

UgYCT6a.jpg

NfRXxTT.jpg

I am glad to announce that all of these glues work for gluing these rubber backhands to the rubber gloves. So the cost to make these backhands yourself are;
• $12.99 Flex Seal Clear (16oz)
• $2-3 Acrylic paint
• $5.99 - 9.99 Rubber infused glue
With a little time and experimentation I was able to make Centurion Level gloves for my TK.

At first I thought that making Centurion was a flight of fancy but now it’s looking like a possibility. I want to thank the FISDL for putting it in my head to Centurion after seeing my posts about my helmet. This build is going to take some time but it’s going to be worth all the work and experimenting.


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Here are the gloves that came with my Anovos TK kit.

DkTnPaC.jpg

I had to use them to do some work. I wasn’t worried about getting them dirty since when I used them I already had the plan of doing the TKC.

FkWEFE0.jpg

Placement is key and knowing where I need to clean is a must.

GzX3SYY.jpg

I made sure that the area where the backhands are going to be placed. The first glue I attempted to use was 3M Hi Strength 90 contact cement. You would figure that an industrial strength glue would work but it didn’t stick to the backhand.

ALwFyAP.jpg

5v8btKt.jpg

Ma9fyEo.jpg

ue1Rxsg.jpg

So the next glue to be attempted is the good old E6000. So 24 hrs later...I was peeling the E6000 off of the rubber glove. Again this glue didn’t stick to the backhand. I figured that is was rubber and not silicone that the standard glue used in prop and costume building would work. I even tried traditional CA glue (super glue) to no avail.

bOwFu80.jpg

PO3DE03.jpg

So after some research I found out that guy in the R/C world use a rubber infused CA glue for their car tires. I figured that it’s a glue that sticks to rubber why not give it a chance.

sbD7PAD.jpg

QIQ3lMR.jpg

UgYCT6a.jpg

NfRXxTT.jpg

I am glad to announce that all of these glues work for gluing these rubber backhands to the rubber gloves. So the cost to make these backhands yourself are;
• $12.99 Flex Seal Clear (16oz)
• $2-3 Acrylic paint
• $5.99 - 9.99 Rubber infused glue
With a little time and experimentation I was able to make Centurion Level gloves for my TK.

At first I thought that making Centurion was a flight of fancy but now it’s looking like a possibility. I want to thank the FISDL for putting it in my head to Centurion after seeing my posts about my helmet. This build is going to take some time but it’s going to be worth all the work and experimenting.


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  • 6 months later...

Well it’s been a while but here is an update. I just added a switch for my fans this morning so that I can turn them on and off after plugging them in to the usb power source.
g2fp4eq.jpg
I also got in the proper abs belt piece and the proper control panel for the O2 canister/TD. I want to thank Sskunky of CFO for these parts and he was awesome and threw in a couple of extra pieces. He also was the one who I got the proper “U” shaped trim from him. Now this makes only one more piece I need to get to complete the TKC and that’s the belt. This will be a bit before I get it since I will be getting it from Imperial Issue and I need to know what my waist size is with the armor on. This will come sometime after the armor party.

Now on a sour note...my last posting was about how I used the Anovos gloves and built Centurion level backhands. Well I was trying them on the other day and when I was taking them off, the fingertip of the left hand sheared right off. Now I am have to go mount and get another pair. This time I’m looking into more chemical resistant gloves or even sandblast gloves. Does anyone have a suggestion on what I should get?
Now we are going to be having an armor party here soon and I should have a few more updates after that.


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