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ANH Stunt El Puerto de Santa Maria,Cadiz


Jotajota

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Hello, my name is John and I'm here to build an ANH stunt Stormtrooper. I´ll post here my evolution on the building of this armor. I've also posted on the Spanish garrison forums this same post, but I think I can get better help over here. Everything you guys help me with will be translated and put in Spanish to help the armor builders over here on the Spanish garrison forum.
I'm pretty patient and somewhat handy with manual work, but I'm very new to armor building.
Any type of recommendation or critic is welcomed.
with this ill be posting alot of pictures and problems I come up with this build.
The armor is from a corsair kids premium kit (Juanma you´re awesome) its a 2mm HIPS. Which for me around this area is the most complete and he is always are your disposal via whatsapp.
I am 1.83m (6´0) tall and weight 90kg (198lb) normal body shape. A little tummy but its all fine :).

 

So the big brown box came and Here are some photos for all to see.I want to always go for the highest grade for each part to at least make an Expert Infantryman armor set
 

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Sorry for the chaos, I'm not used to making these kinds of posts or just posts in general. I can use the tapatalks program to upload pictures easy.

Quick list of materials I have or waiting by mail.....

-Dremel(o equivalent)-It´s ordered,thats why Im waiting to start cutting.Should have it by next week(hopefully)
-Painter´s tape-Using this to hold armor together and mark the lines to where to cut.
-Gloves against cuts- I tend to cut myself alot.
-Metal rulers-Better then plastic rulers in all it´s ways
-Clamps of all sizes- to clamp down stuff while cutting,etc...
-Sandpaper-With diferent types of grains
-Cutters-To cut plastic
-Iron entelado digital- To Iron the armour on the sides to give it its thickness(next week come in..maybe)
-Lexan scissors-You find out that 2mm with a cutter is a pain and this is better.(next week if lucky)

-Pencils- To make makings
-Safety Googles-To protect your eyes while cutting with a dremal.

81002016PNGORG(4).png771be7ed1d199a54d6f597a4aca08089.jpgXceedScissors-2.jpgplancha-entelado-digital-220v.jpg

Of course I´ll be posting here everything I get of use something new.

Thank you!!

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Well let´s start on what looks like a simple piece.

1781993b5fb46f23b6ec3eab1abc9702.jpg

Reference pic

Thermal Detonator

For 501st approval:

(A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt.

Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.

The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end.

The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.

The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.293b5d4b38ffecb8de616c3922f49fed.jpg

 

Following the reference pics posted around here

The caps on the sides can be from 18-20mm.I´m going to cut them at 20mm.

As you can see I´ve marked them(pencil) to cut at the line easier later with the dremel cutting disks(waiting).

The faceplate has to be 11,5cm but mine is marked at 12,5cm.I´ll be cutting on both sides to get a nice match later.

The tube has to be from 50mm-68mm,

The total measurement is 190.5mm

Remember the faceplate has to have the circle on the top right side just like on my picture.

The aluminum clips has to be 25mm wide and around 250mm long

 

Well this is what I found,an aluminum pipe at 60mm which is perfect for my caps 19cm long.

I also found a par of aluminum thin plates.

c03ebfd5578055843fcddbc794c56f57.jpg

Well I have a few problems

-The plates are alittle wider then 25mm which with the dremel,I´ll cut down in width and make them 25mm.

Hopefully with cutting disks I can solve this problem.

-The White side,How to remove it

Its kinda like a paint but don´t know how to peel it off.

Edited by Jotajota
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Gloves

For 501st approval:

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

For level two certification (if applicable):Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

019000411100787_1__440x440.jpg

 

Local hardware store has these gloves and since they have to be rubber for EI.Thats covered.

 

Hand Plates

For 501st approval:

Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.

For level two certification (if applicable):

 

TK_anh_stunt_handplates.jpeg

These hand guards have them with masking tape to mark the lines on where to cut just waiting for the dremel...

4a1ce585c31e727d65b312ec2061e9d3.jpg

Edited by Jotajota
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Well its from corsair kids and they are listed as recasters here so im guessing its a recast.Don't know the difference and I really dont care.the seller responds pretty fast and always help out with anything about the armor.So I'm happy here.

anyways see you in the spanish garrison!!

 

Enviado desde mi Aquaris E5 mediante Tapatalk

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It's nothing like an RS. It's cast from a TE derived kit like CAP but with almost all the arm and leg parts doubled up.

Don't understand the term CAP and the part "all the arm and leg parts doubled up" thanks!

 

Enviado desde mi Aquaris E5 mediante Tapatalk

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Don't understand the term CAP and the part "all the arm and leg parts doubled up" thanks!

CAP is the name of the armour maker who recast TE.

 

Doubled up parts means the same parts are used for left and right, so instead of having four unique parts to make up the shins for instance, you have two. Same goes for the arms and shoulder bells, they are the same parts 'doubled up'. That's common for the type of kit you have.

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CAP is the name of the armour maker who recast TE.

 

Doubled up parts means the same parts are used for left and right, so instead of having four unique parts to make up the shins for instance, you have two. Same goes for the arms and shoulder bells, they are the same parts 'doubled up'. That's common for the type of kit you have.

Thanks for taking time to answer.I want to learn all I can.even thou I read read I still know nothing yet.

 

Cheers,john

 

Enviado desde mi Aquaris E5 mediante Tapatalk

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