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TK-80407 Centurion Punch List - Assistance/Feedback Appreciated


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Hello Fellow Troopers and FISD Experts,

 

I recently completed EIB requirements for my RS Props Armor and am working toward my final goal of Centurion.  I wanted to create this thread to solicit advice from the many whom have gone down this road in the past.  I appreciate, in advance, the feedback to help me achieve the ultimate goal of Centurion status!!!

 

First off let's start with the punch list, starting with the more simple mods first:

  • Touch up paint on helmet for ears. 
  • Remove ID info from the TD tube (duh)
  • Correct Drop Box Alignment
  • Sniper knee return edge thick. Especially on the left side the knee plate should run parallel with the armor.
  • Tuck the posterior plate
  • Ab snap (right side) out of place.  Snap should be closer to the seam edge.
  • Ab to Kidney gap.  Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. 

 

I'm going to be posting each mod in the threads below, in hopes of receiving valuable feedback prior to Centurion submission.  Again, thanks the the help!   :jc_doublethumbup:

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Started off with the simple mods first...I'll combine these together as I think they are self explanatory  ;)

 

  • Touch up paint on helmet for ears. 
  • Remove ID info from the TD tube (duh)
  • Correct Drop Box Alignment

 

Ears Touch-up

 

Before

 

FullSizeRender_zpsfojj604z.jpg

 

After

 

IMG_0771_zpsovkkpc3i.jpg

 

Remove PVC manufacturer info from TD tube.  As much as I wanted this to be the Empire's TK TD branding, it needed to be gone LOL....hence the Duh!

 

Before

 

7795a6ae-f230-4b11-9e3f-fc8d2a797935_zps

 

After

 

a0e489d3-7bc4-41a5-90a3-4309a66ae0b6_zps

 

Drop Box Location - Here I affixed the backside of the DBox straps to the underside of the belt with glue.

 

Before

 

5266f171-6e93-4ba4-8a5a-d0d75fc57c8a_zps

 

After

 

IMG_0769_zps021qkfuf.jpg

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Moving out of the simple changes to the more difficult.  Some Dremel work involved here.  Getting the lines right are key.

 

Before (with advice from Tony)

 

IMG_0692_zpss6mfgyxl-crop.jpg

 

After (Dremel Diamond Wheel and Sanding)

 

73e953cf-713c-434f-891e-438ae427a2a6_zps

 

78647b32-1311-4f62-924d-36719e5e15a9_zps

 

Getting the ABS Goo ready for the next step of moving my Ab snap.  I'll stop here for some feedback.

 

IMG_0768_zpsoishjmik.jpg

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Looking great with those changes, Scott!  For the ab snap, I recommend drilling it out first using cobalt or titanium tip drill bits.  Start small and work your way up until it loosens enough to remove.  As for the ABS paste, know that it can be messy.  This is the way I suggest doing it:

 

Preparation:

 

1.  Using 2 layers of blue painter's tape, cover the hole in from the back side about half an inch all the way around.  Press down tight.

2.  Using blue painter's tape mask off the front side of the hole*, leaving about a 1/8 inch gap on the sides.  Press down tight.

 

Application:

 

1.  After mixing up the ABS paste to a toothpaste like consistency, apply just enough to fill the hole, with a small "dome" on top.  

2.  Allow it to dry thoroughly (12-24 hours).  Do not remove the tape.

3.  Using progressively smaller grit sandpaper, carefully sand it down until it is smooth and level with the surface.

4.  Remove tape.  You can use Novus (or similar) scratch remover/polish after that.

 

* I suggest masking off the front of the hole about 2 inches on the sides.  This way, when you sand, it will not scratch your armor.

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Thank you Joe.  Very clear process.  The ABS is curing at the moment.  I will post progress pictures later on.  As far as moving the snap over, is this the correct measurements to do so?  Even with my return edge extended as far as it is?  

 

Guidance Pic

 

33060479300_0510cc0140_o_zpseytg1m8m.jpg

 

MY current position with Tony's guidance.

 

right%20b.jpg

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Good morning....a few updates on the ABS paste work.

 

I created the paste and initially found it to be too runny.  I let sit for a full day and the consistency became like toothpaste.  Using the process above, I filled the hole.  Pics below:

 

Snap Hole Before Work Begins:

 

IMG_0773_zps62jv5quh.jpg

 

I sanded the area with 400 grit to allow the paste to adhere and covered the areas around the hole with painters tape.  I placed a temp piece of ABS on the back of the hole to support the paste whilst it dries.

 

IMG_0774_zpsaq0afy3p.jpg

 

After the ABS dried, i removed the painters tape and allowed to dry overnight.

 

IMG_0775_zpsmemfowyh.jpg

 

I'm sanding down today and will show some final pictures later on.  I was curious if anyone had a response to my previous post.  Do I put the new snap in the 12mm x 12mm position shown?

 

33060479300_0510cc0140_o_zpseytg1m8m.jpg

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Beuhler, Beuhler, anyone, anyone...LOL!

 

I followed up on some of Ukswrath's builds....since his build and seamlines look identical to mine, I went with the following guidance.

 

Thread:  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-20

 

4f. Ab Right side rivet assembly

 

In this section I'll install the Centurion required male snap found on the upper right hand side of the ab.

Note: The Centurion required snap does not need to be functional. 

 

From the top right corner measure 20mm vertical and 20mm horizontal from the outer most return edge

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i believe that the 20mm x 20mm is correct. I would have to get home from work tonight to measure mine to be sure. but i am positive i followed Tonys build advice on that one 

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Thanks nukem. I went with 20x20mm and it looks good. Compared to the centurion submittals. Appreciate confirmation though.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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