ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Yes thank you. Now it's time to find some old DSL space saving filters and get to work. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xSCDx Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Yes thank you. Now it's time to find some old DSL space saving filters and get to work. Thanks againCool. I'd be interested to know if you solve it mate. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKSnake[TK] Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Sorry I haven't had time to put up a wiring diagram. Been busy this weekend doing contract work, and I have to fly out on a business trip tomorrow. I'll see what I can do while I'm on the road :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Sorry I haven't had time to put up a wiring diagram. Been busy this weekend doing contract work, and I have to fly out on a business trip tomorrow. I'll see what I can do while I'm on the road :-) No worries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKSnake[TK] Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) Sorry it took so long to get back to this topic as it slipped my mind, as I had replied during a business trip and got caught up in, well, business. Anyhow, I've updated my original post on my blog to include the circuit diagrams: EDIT: For my EU friends and others who just want to piece something form components, as far as circuit diagrams go, a full DSL filter will look something like this (click to enlarge): The basic DSL filters I'm sourcing, which work fine, looks something like this (although it's hard to tell the exact component values as they're not well labeled on my components): Just exchange Line for your power supply input, and Phone as the output to the hearing assist system. In general, the Phone side should always point towards the audio device that needs the clean power and noise reduction/ elimination. Edited May 11, 2017 by TKSnake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 Looking back at your bucket photos where did you hide the filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKSnake[TK] Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 The filter hides on the side of the bracket that faces into the helmet, connected to a wire that goes to the Velleman that sits on the side of the bracket facing my head, to make easy gain adjustments while trooping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jpjn45 Posted February 28, 2018 Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 On 3/2/2017 at 6:50 AM, Chapaaz said: I use an anker powercore 10000 with my vellerman audio assist and it works perfectly until I turn my fans on. I have them all wired up on the same harness. If the audio assist is the only thing on it works great. Soon as I turn a fan on feedback and humming galore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Can you send me what I need to build your set up. I need to have better hearing from my bucket , anovos first order Stormtrooper standard helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jpjn45 Posted February 28, 2018 Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 How can or where can you get the kit fully completed and ready to install in my Stormtrooper helmet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted February 28, 2018 Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 Here - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32487-fs-ukswraths-stormtrooper-hearing-assist-system/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacMons Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Simpler solution, at least for me. What I found was insufficient ground pads on the microphones and R16. This only factors when you move the mics off of the board. Which is exactly what we want in a helmeted costume. So, on the trace side, scrape off some of the green protective layer on the ground plane near the negative posts of each mic and at both ends of R16. Bridge the pins to the scraped off area. If already assembled, just use a bit of wire. But if building a new kit, just strip enough wire to reach and solder the wire to both the original pad and to the scraped clean area. For R16, just bend the leads over to reach the cleaned area and solder to both pad and scraped area before you trim the leads. This gives sufficient ground to eliminate the humming you are hearing. That's all it is, a bad trace design by Velleman that works if you assemble the kit as designed, but not for us helmeted users. I have messaged them about this, but never got a reply. Looking at recent kits, they haven't changed it. But, it's a simple fix. To test this without any soldering, attach a piece of wire to each mic case, holding tight with your fingers. The hum should vanish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CallMeMrTibbles[501st] Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 Simpler solution, at least for me. What I found was insufficient ground pads on the microphones and R16. This only factors when you move the mics off of the board. Which is exactly what we want in a helmeted costume. So, on the trace side, scrape off some of the green protective layer on the ground plane near the negative posts of each mic and at both ends of R16. Bridge the pins to the scraped off area. If already assembled, just use a bit of wire. But if building a new kit, just strip enough wire to reach and solder the wire to both the original pad and to the scraped clean area. For R16, just bend the leads over to reach the cleaned area and solder to both pad and scraped area before you trim the leads. This gives sufficient ground to eliminate the humming you are hearing. That's all it is, a bad trace design by Velleman that works if you assemble the kit as designed, but not for us helmeted users. I have messaged them about this, but never got a reply. Looking at recent kits, they haven't changed it. But, it's a simple fix. To test this without any soldering, attach a piece of wire to each mic case, holding tight with your fingers. The hum should vanish. Are you able to post a pic showing what you've described? Pictures > million words, etc.Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CallMeMrTibbles[501st] Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 (edited) Wandering off thread, but still mk136 related... Just replaced the 3x1.5V batteries with a 9V pp3 and a dc/dc convertor. Here's the convertor I've used https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08PNV2GXT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_N962KEEDXJ9FZYH558TY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Circled in red is the 9v pp3. Used CA / superglue to make a loop of elastic, and glued some Velcro to it to secure inside the lid (really easy to swap out the battery, just slide out of the elastic). Soldered a small switch to the battery connector. MK136 has a power switch but the dc/dc convertor doesn't and might slowly drain power. In green is the dc to dc convertor. The input and output range is pretty wide, and adjustable. Before fitting to the helmet wire up the 9V battery connector to the input then adjust the pot so that you measure 4.5V at the output. I wrapped it loosely in black electrical tape so it didn't scratch my head or short on anything. Takes up very little space, and has a nice blue power indicator LED. In blue is the MK136. Standard stuff. I leave it turned on there now, and control power with the switch at the battery. I fitted a knob to the volume, which makes it much easier to adjust while wearing the helmet and rubber gloves. Edited August 1, 2021 by CallMeMrTibbles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly11[Admin] Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 A $1.50 voltage regulator chip will do the same job, take up no space as you can mount it on the Vellerman board. that's how I did mine and it is still faultless to this very day some 5 years later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CallMeMrTibbles[501st] Posted August 2, 2021 Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 But does it have a fancy blue led?? If only I'd asked first! Thanks Andrew 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcase_ltfad Posted February 1, 2022 Report Share Posted February 1, 2022 I'm trying to use a 5v power bank (seen in the first picture) but i keep getting loads of interferance. My first thought is to bring the 5v down to 3.6 like the 3 AAs it comes with, but I'm I'm quite clueless how to do that. Would appreciate any help. But the one reason I don't think the voltage is the problem because, I can can use a 4.8v pack and it works fine. (Seen in the second picture) is the voltage even the issue? Or is there something else at play? https://i.imgur.com/lYwcMyN.jpg https://i.imgur.com/C3W6lA2.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CallMeMrTibbles[501st] Posted February 2, 2022 Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 19 hours ago, Hardcase_ltfad said: I'm trying to use a 5v power bank (seen in the first picture) but i keep getting loads of interferance. My first thought is to bring the 5v down to 3.6 like the 3 AAs it comes with, but I'm I'm quite clueless how to do that. Would appreciate any help. But the one reason I don't think the voltage is the problem because, I can can use a 4.8v pack and it works fine. (Seen in the second picture) is the voltage even the issue? Or is there something else at play? https://i.imgur.com/lYwcMyN.jpg https://i.imgur.com/C3W6lA2.jpg Tony (ukswrath) has said with his kits (which are very similar) that usb power banks are going to cause problems like this. I think he said it was because of internally circuitry (I'll try and find the link to his post) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CallMeMrTibbles[501st] Posted February 2, 2022 Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 Here's the link where Tony first mentions 'noisy power' from usb power banks. It then goes on to talk about filter circuits, and I believe Tony ended up fitting a version of the filter to his product. You may be able to reproduce the filter from info in the linked thread, or contact Tony for help. Although it's nice to have everything powered from the same battery I'm happy having a power bank for my fans and a 9v battery powering my velleman (via a small dc voltage convertor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted February 2, 2022 Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 Sorry for the late. On the 5v systems I installed a filler to help reduce pwm noise caused by most battery chargers and cooling fans that may be added to the same power bank.. The filter reduced or eliminated the noise depending on the battery manufacturer. There were a couple battery manufacturers I could sell or recommend to customers that would eliminate the noiseeven further however, with manufacturers constantly changing their designs or quit making batteries all together I grew tired of chasing the rabbit, so I stopped offering the 5v version. A hard decision though necessary. That said, though the filter helps to reduce the noise you need a specific battery to eliminate it completely. These batteries have a feature and are designed to be powered on and remain on regardless there's a device plugged into it or not. Most batteries are not like this, most shut off after 30-60 seconds of not charging or if the device being powered falls under a 30mAh draw. The SHA draws 15mAh. If you have further questions please let me know. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcase_ltfad Posted February 2, 2022 Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 (edited) Thank you both so much for your responses! I figured this might just be a dead post, but I really appreciate your help! I definitely know now what you mean about noisy power now lol. I rewired everything to run off my 4.8v green pack. And while it all "worked" I was getting a ton of feedback if I switched the fans on. But your absolutely right with the two batteries, I think that's probably really the best way to go. I got my fan on the power bank, and I bought a separate battery for the velleman, after testing the system. It only 3.7v 500 mah so I guess we'll see how long it lasts, during a troop. Lol P.S. 3.7v should be plenty right? The kit came with 3 AA so I figured it'd be fine. Somehow I got it all to fit in my helmet, I have the velleman piped out in to some headphones, and also piggybacked my radio comes into the same speakers. And let me tell you.. coolest part is hearing your mates over a com channel, instantly makes you think you're really in star wars Then I got my fan and voice amp mic, plus a ppt button for the radio in there. As you can see, this one is going in my Mando helmet Again I really appreciate yours guys help! Very awesome of you! Edited February 3, 2022 by Hardcase_ltfad 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted February 5, 2022 Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 Anytime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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