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No sew snaps pulling through elastic straps - Help!


Falciform13

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I'm over halfway through my build and just ran into a huge stumbling block.  I chose to use the no sew snaps from Tandy.  I'm now finding out that since they're so strong, they're pulling through the elastic straps (shoulder bells/shoulder straps) when trying to unsnap them.  Did everyone else choose to use the sew on?  Or did I do something wrong.  I've even doubled up the elastic.  I'd hate to rip the whole thing apart and start over.  If I have to, I'm glad I used E6000.

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I've used snaps the all you do is double over the elastic and burn a hole with a cheap solder iron. Then set the snaps with a striker and a mini anvil. Works

 

 

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I'm using the Tandy line 24 snaps

 

5b07d210e7837d56a3676c4116e011a6.jpg

 

Here's a pic of the shoulder bell strap. You can see the hole and the snap next to it. The snap bend as I tried unsnapping it.

 

5ee8a628ff80ae00d1c2543e8f22ac1a.jpg

 

Here's the white shoulder strap

 

8af191b961bb5335c981c8df7758b78d.jpg

 

 

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In most applications I use sew on, for the ones I don't I make the attachments are double thick. On the bell strap fold over the end then install the snap. The shoulder strap, if using elastic should be double thick also.

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For another trooper's shoulder strap we reinforced it with a small square of abs through which the snap also went. Also used some stronger elastic too.

 

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I've doubled the elastic for every snap.  I didn't use a soldering iron.  I wonder if that could be the problem?  The ends didn't fuse?  I thought of a square of abs too.  My thought would be female snap, abs, two layers of elastic, then the post.  Does that sound about right?

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I don't get it. From your photos it looks as though you haven't put the snaps on yet? How do you mean they are pulling through? Does the elastic pull away from the snap and leave it behind?

 

I can't see how that's possible. I've used snaps on 3 different builds in all sorts of ways with different material and they clamp so hard there's no way the material(s) would be able to pull away around the snap?

 

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Your holes in the elastic look too big. I use the smallest punch on my punch tool and all the ends of the elastic are folded over.

 

If the problem persists, you can glue small tabs of webbing where the snaps are going, but make sure the holes are much smaller than you are currently making them.

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I highly recommend hitting Lowe's or a hobby shop and picking up a cheap "woodburning kit" like this:  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Weller-Electric-15-Piece-Wood-Burning-Kit/3402984 to make the holes with.  

It makes and seals the edges of the holes in one step, and prevents fraying/weakening of the edges.  If you decide to use one of these, be SURE to be in a well ventilated area, as the smell is just awful.

Not only did I double-up on the elastic, I added CA (super) glue to the inside of each rivet.  I have had no problems, even after dozens and dozens of troops.  

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I second the idea that the holes look too big (And also using a heat source to melt the edges). I made mine just small enough to force the snap stem through, then pounded the hell out of it to close it tight. Since the elastic stretches, if the hole is too big, it stretches over the snap and it pops out. The only problem I ever had was my right side shoulder that popped out mid troop. Doubling up the elastic or sewing webbing on will re-enforce the snap plate. Also, don't pull on the elastic to pop the snap off, try to dig your fingernail or thumb into the snap to disconnect it.

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Between (1) punching smaller holes, (2) heat-sealing the holes, and (3) reinforcing the area where the snap goes, there are a lot of excellent ideas here. Any of those (or all three) should fix your problem. I personally use an old soldering iron to make my holes and in some cases I reinforce the area where the holes will be punched with either a double-fold of elastic or soft-side Velcro.

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Thanks everyone.  I did make the holes just big enough to fit the post through.  The pictures are a little misleading, the holes look bigger because I took them after the elastic stretched over the snap.  My bad, I didn't heat the hole as I didn't think fraying would be an issue under the snap.  I like the webbing idea because I don't really like the way the abs looks.

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Soldering irons are great if you have one, and it's not like they're expensive, but I went even cheaper. Heat up a nail on the stove to red hot (hold it with pliers, obviously!) and it goes through elastic and webbing like butter. No new tools needed. :) (I like new tools, especially if they're cheap, but then you also have to store them forever...)

20160430220520-24a5381c-me.jpg


For snaps that were going to get a high amount of use and stress, I would fold over the end of the elastic (as is standard), but I ALSO cut a little square of webbing and folded the elastic over it, just to give some more beefiness to the connection.  I didn't take many photos of this, except this one on the shoulder elastics, but I did it on all the black strapping as well.  Note that I sewed the fold over, but you can also just put some E6000 in like you're making a sandwich and it will hold it all together nicely, as well.  Once the glue is set, punch holes and set the snaps as usual.

 

20160622023211-089e3aa2-me.jpg

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You'll 100% want to use a soldering iron or some other thing to cauterize the hole to prevent stretching/tearing.  All the ones I didn't do this for I quickly had to redo the strapping on as they slipped off the Tandy Line 24 snaps.

 

if you use KMan's heating way above, be very very careful!  Burns not only hurt like no tomorrow, but they're very bad for your skin and take long to heal!  Get heat resistant gloves!

 

For the elastic you'll also want to double it over.  

Edited by Alay
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Here's what it looks like. I'm not sure if you can tell but I but a 1" piece of black nylon webbing. I decided not to double up the elastic but I do have a piece of webbing on top and bottom. Basically it's a triple layer. I just need to test it now.

 

 

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