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Jayben Kenobi

Tips? Sanding and Repainting Anovos Kit

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Hello Squad. I need to sand and repaint my Anovos kit. I have never had to refinish finished armor so I'm somewhat hesistant. Any tips on what sandpaper to use, techniques, etc. ?

 

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Edited by Jayben Kenobi

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I have to ask, why would you need to sand and repaint?

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I have to ask, why would you need to sand and repaint?

Maybe it's a tfa kit.

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Then prime at least twice , sanding in between. Then paint at least twice following paint can instructions for multiple coats.

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Then prime at least twice , sanding in between. Then paint at least twice following paint can instructions for multiple coats.

Any specific kind of primer? Also what brand and color of finish paint do you suggest? (This is the TFA Anovos Kit)

 

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For the alpha kits we were told to use Rust-Oleum 2x white primer, and Rust-Oleum 2x glossy paint, to match the fiberglass helm closely. No clear coat was suggested but some did that too. Some used automotive paint designed to be tougher and flexible to prevent some damage. I didn't keep mine long, but I had it well protected in travel , and I could tell where the suit would begin to wear. I presume two or three coats of gloss white will be good for a while.

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For the alpha kits we were told to use Rust-Oleum 2x white primer, and Rust-Oleum 2x glossy paint, to match the fiberglass helm closely. No clear coat was suggested but some did that too. Some used automotive paint designed to be tougher and flexible to prevent some damage. I didn't keep mine long, but I had it well protected in travel , and I could tell where the suit would begin to wear. I presume two or three coats of gloss white will be good for a while.

Cool thanks for the input. I have read that some folks used Rust-Oleum and it messed up their kits pretty bad. Perhaps it was a freak thing though.

 

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Consumer spray paint has issues. Mixing brands is bad. Heat and humidity and not following the can guidelines for repeat coats ...Waiting too long then not waiting long enough...Always messes things up. If you have space, and a week, take the time. I know some had it painted at a shop...Great results, costly, but likely great results. Can always weather it lighly instead .

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Or you can spend 1k on a pro job and forget about it forever lol

 

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I also came around to "Perfect Match Automotive Paint" (Pure White). It can be found at Advanced AutoParts. It has a creamy look to it.

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Or you can spend 1k on a pro job and forget about it forever lol

 

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I'd never forget spending a months rent on a paint job....
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@Jayben Kenobi   How did the project go? I'm in the same situation now and doing my homework. Couple fellas in the Garrison did theirs with the Rustoleum 2x with good results. I plan to do the same, but always looking for pointers from those with real experience.

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Hello! Rust-Oleum worked great with mine. No issues at all for me.

[mention=29709]Jayben Kenobi[/mention]   How did the project go? I'm in the same situation now and doing my homework. Couple fellas in the Garrison did theirs with the Rustoleum 2x with good results. I plan to do the same, but always looking for pointers from those with real experience.


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14 hours ago, Jayben Kenobi said:

Hello! Rust-Oleum worked great with mine. No issues at all for me.

 


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How about the sanding? I'm being told 400  grit is the way to go. Did you wet and dry sand?? Any pointers on that... going to start that this weekend!

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I don't believe it had to wet sand mine. I did get something called a tack cloth that I used to get the dust off of my armor. They are pretty cheap and work very well to remove dust.

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Wet sanding is not the end all but is good for a few reasons,. It reduces dust in the air, lungs, eyes, etc. Increases sandpaper longevity, and highly important in my book it reduces the possibility of particles getting trapped under the primer and paint. Speaking of paint, if you elect to pro paint you'll definitely want every spec of dust removed from every crack prior to even priming.  Other than that good ole (non wet) sandpaper works just fine and 400 grit is highly recommended as it provides a good bonding surface with the primer and paint.  

Hope this helps

 

 

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Wet sanding is not the end all but is good for a few reasons,. It reduces dust in the air, lungs, eyes, etc. Increases sandpaper longevity, and highly important in my book it reduces the possibility of particles getting trapped under the primer and paint. Speaking of paint, if you elect to pro paint you'll definitely want every spec of dust removed from every crack prior to even priming.  Other than that good ole (non wet) sandpaper works just fine and 400 grit is highly recommended as it provides a good bonding surface with the primer and paint.  
Hope this helps
 
 

So wet sanding and 400 grit sand paper...
If I use Rustoleum 2X, what primer could I use ?
I was told about going to an Auto Zone and getting an adhesion promoter ...
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
TY.


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I used automotive acrylic paint but same principals would apply no matter which paint you use, try to use the same make of paints, using different types can cause reactions. Make sure you wet sand the entire armor before applying primer (primer filler) you do not need an adhesion promoter. 

 

Using water with a little dish washing liquid helps to keep the paper from clogging as quickly and also allows the paper to glide a little better, also try to sand in circles, less chance of scratching.

 

Once primer is applied and dry I like to scuff with 600 grit sandpaper dry, this will get rid of any little bits or imperfections that may have been stuck while applying the primer. 

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22 hours ago, TK 71627 said:


So wet sanding and 400 grit sand paper...
If I use Rustoleum 2X, what primer could I use ?
I was told about going to an Auto Zone and getting an adhesion promoter ...
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
TY.


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Wet sanding with 400 should work just as well for rattle can paint as it was for the professional paint job that was performed on my kit.

 

Rustoleum 2x is 2in 1 paint, the primer is built in.

 

Adhesion promoter is mainly used with professional painting but may work with rattle cans, contact an professional automotive paint supply for more information on that. 

 

I've seen people use additional primers or adhesion agents and some without. Results varied, none being better then the other. Primer is great for filling in minor scratches but may not be needed with the Rustoleum 2x.

 

Key point is to ensure the armor is dust and water free, painted in a controlled environment to prevent foreign material or wind from effecting the process (DIY paint booth), painted in temperatures recommended by the manufacturer and following the paint process set out by the mfg. 

 

Hope this helps

 

 

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Ty guys .... very important information... I will do and use such information accordingly !!!


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