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Stephen's RS ANH stunt build WIP (for small people)


Gwithian

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Glad you liked the pics mate, I'm following and learning from your thread too

 

It really was amazing to see what the guys at RS do, I should have taken more pics and asked more questions , but for once in my life I was dumb struck ...... sorry

 

I'm now wondering where on earth do I start.....I don't think I will sleep much tonight ..... which means my wife will be in a bad mood tomorrow ...... or I will end up in the spare room lol

 

 

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Well today I've been sorting , or , trying to sort the arms and legs into left and right, I think I have it but will he k before I start trimming and putting the stuff together. I need to order some E6000 glue and some magnets.... what size magnets do I need?

 

Anyway arms and legs now boxed up

 

ae89f09075875ba11548c7546fa27ad2.jpg

 

Put some duct tape inside the lid, around the frown mesh, and to cover the joints between the face and cap

 

f7f0ad94e6986df06175efdfd41a3dfb.jpg

 

Painted the inside with chalk board paint .... it needs another coat

 

3cb065828012b2c03bca8cca0c9cba33.jpg

 

And redid the hovi mic tips

 

7cfbc361dba8e60c699396782e9dc873.jpg

 

I used a AA battery to get the shape and it worked perfectly, the first attempt wasn't good enough but second and third goes have been placed into the mic tips

 

1a79343109f9f27c4309975d4461b5e6.jpg

 

Oh and the blaster is well.... fantastic , I'm really chuffed with it

 

e1b0503f8527bcd8dc929612bc58afa5.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Given the lid a second coat today and it's looking good.

 

T thought I would start with the thermal detonator . Cut the end caps out roughly, I guess they need sanding flat so there is no ridge ?

 

Also are these the correct screws in the TD? Do I just need to paint them black ?

 

Thanks

 

6bf732a237c33396d867d4595f083ae2.jpg

 

 

 

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I marked 20mm like Clive on UKG said with my compass , the line can just about be seen

 

f35c957057122886eb2d648066dd64fd.jpg

 

Then trimmed it with the scissors , I didn't trim to the line, I will sand them down later

 

a8fd00d096e61306dbaa4ba3d255933d.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Stephen,

 

Screws look good just paint them black. Your end caps are correct at 20mm. Take a look at the photo reference gallery http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/7-general-stormtrooper-reference/. The first category is the TD which shows the overall length which I believe is between 185-190mm. Also the RS Suit category has good photos of the TD with measurements. When I built mine I failed to align the clips so they were touching the end caps which is a good idea if you want EIB or Centurion. To do this I had to move them which was easy enough. I noticed your tube has printing on it. I believe this is allowed but if you're gonna have to move the clips like I had to, you could paint your whole tube prior to reinstall the clips. Not needed unless you want the printing gone....I think some have sanded off the print as well and the re-polished the tube.

 

I'm referencing your helmet work as I start mine.

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Sanded the TD end caps today and git them to 20mm each

 

e167090d46447c0b19d57468d6157829.jpg

 

Then I thought I would do the TD control panel

 

b63d160b6f11b82ace67f818fa063a8a.jpg

 

c75c7a79b299bc6a44f3252a9a24edcf.jpg

 

507e11b8da47816fbb5f1e9ca538394b.jpg

 

I may have it the wrong way up? But when you look from the top it's not square,

 

3e25dd948e2aa592288e687e6054855b.jpg

 

I thought I had best check before I trim any more?

 

Also the joint will look like this... is that ok?

 

446b390eacfa3b686933860ff068d07c.jpg

 

Thanks

 

 

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Sanded the TD end caps today and git them to 20mm each

 

e167090d46447c0b19d57468d6157829.jpg

 

Then I thought I would do the TD control panel

 

b63d160b6f11b82ace67f818fa063a8a.jpg

 

c75c7a79b299bc6a44f3252a9a24edcf.jpg

 

507e11b8da47816fbb5f1e9ca538394b.jpg

 

I may have it the wrong way up? But when you look from the top it's not square,

 

3e25dd948e2aa592288e687e6054855b.jpg

 

I thought I had best check before I trim any more?

 

Also the joint will look like this... is that ok?

 

446b390eacfa3b686933860ff068d07c.jpg

 

Thanks

 

 

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The rectangular button parts of the control panel will be on the bottom and the round button on top. Mine had the same bent corners and work in wonkiness to it as well. Just clamped it down best I could.

 

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Been busy today, the magnets arrived so I covered them in micro fibre cloths, got the idea from Cricket

 

8cb98fe28376583cfc303029710baa28.jpg

 

Whilst I'm waiting for the glue to arrive I thought I would start the ammo belt

 

Found this in crickets thread, it's really helpful

 

7f9b85fc5a58d1c75f3eaa74bc758563.jpg

 

Then started

 

b1aaeb71a211ff9c9fbec29fb5178818.jpg

 

Marked out the lines, did a rough cut with the lexon scissors

 

a42d29a5ae286770d2d069c7304f86dc.jpg

 

Clamped the piece down with Eric lamps and a long aluminium strip to act as a guide, did three scores with the x-acto knife and then split the cut

 

0bf8f8a83a8abcc2f4de64ab08a88569.jpg

 

Marked out the 45 degree ends and checked them against the belt

 

375532a96fc54976d9b8545144b72e9d.jpg

 

fecd8e9afb3a92fbb2d79081217b547b.jpg

 

Checked they were 45 degrees

 

f8d2e7b614e7d415dde47bc337dd8c7e.jpg

 

Then trimmed them with the scissors

 

I messed up one of my runs with the blade, it went a bit wrong, as can be seen below with the faint line, don't know how I can get rid of it

 

0184d352ac33ad98e4bf89602bc34752.jpg

 

Finished job

 

73b60a7f391929e4e48d05374461dfe7.jpg

 

859babc8079b7d645c72400bfdaaf175.jpg

 

Really chuffed with today's work

 

 

 

 

 

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Good job there, Stephen!  Those magnets are... dare I say it?  You've accomplished making magnets super adorable.  

 

33462270151_23ed86b865_m.jpg

And your belt looks perfect.  Nice work!

 

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Well today has been a learning experience and I am a true believer that we do learn something new every day. Today I realised I went a bit mad with the rivet gun on putting my lid together, note to self don't do it next time

 

Ok so today my glue arrived, but before I start I wanted to check if this looks ok

 

abf4e7876b69afea0d67b85cc5aa102e.jpg

 

The control panel is a tad wonky, is the small gap on the RHS near the aluminium bracket ok?

 

326c97b77b44182d7235fdfcf6302b46.jpg

 

I also started trimming the abdomen and kidney pieces, I have trimmed the return edge to 0.5", is that ok?

 

What size should the return edges be on the arms, legs and around the side of the armour, around the neck etc

 

57e960ec308d7cdefda6da9572e8cc34.jpg

 

a66c49db7a8bfa5892b91c2c10b87fa7.jpg

 

e333fcda19f9c23fd0f279a1207adc92.jpg

 

 

 

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The control panel is a tad wonky, is the small gap on the RHS near the aluminium bracket ok?

 

 

Hm.  If you're aiming for Centurion, you'll need to fix that.  You want the panel to touch the brackets.  Like this:

 

33206826476_8778e3aea8.jpg

 

I see that you've got the top lined up straight, but the bottom isn't.  I had some issues with this as well.  I would align the bottom to the brackets and gently even out the top edge.  It looks like there's a bit of flashing still on the top right corner that could be removed anyhow.

 

 

I also started trimming the abdomen and kidney pieces, I have trimmed the return edge to 0.5", is that ok?

 

What size should the return edges be on the arms, legs and around the side of the armour, around the neck etc

 

 

In general, the returns should be just wide enough to install your brackets.  You'll also have more flex in your ab/kidney pieces with a narrower return.  Mine are all about 3/8" (about 1cm) wide.  In my FISD research notes, I see that I wrote: "6-8mm on bottom chest, top of ab, bottom of back, top of kidney".

 

If you're using brackets, be sure to install some extra ABS under the returns for reinforcement.

 

No returns at the bottoms of the forearms.   Returns at the tops of the forearms are optional (I removed most of mine).  No returns on the bottom of the shins.  All other returns on limb parts are optional, but some will say to keep them minimal to add depth to the look of the armor.  No need for returns on the neck.  I cut away at the sides of my chest and back and rebuilt the returns on those areas because it looked better to me that way.  And I cut away all the returns on the butt plate, but built those back as well.  Just personal preference for me on that.  

 

 

Edited by Cricket
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Thanks Christine, I will re-trim the TD plate and square it up, I'm so glad I asked before I glued

 

Thanks also fir the return edge info and the tip re reinforcing the brackets. Did you use the RS brackets?

 

 

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Hi Stephen,<br>

I just received my RS kit in the mail last week and your 100% right they took so much care in packing the kit I was really impressed. I initially was going with another set of armour that I will get later when it's ready but after reading Cristines build I went with RS for my first ever build<br>

## Christine, your build thread has made it to Australia too, I think I have looked at it possibly 10 or so times.<br>

Diana's build thread is good too and would be worth looking up. <br>

I had the same issue with the TD, I just slightly sanded the control panel bottom edge to line it up with the clips. There are a few FISD pointers for this one. Plus I have watched ANH a few times in the past few days to look at them. The top edge with the 'O' has the same little bump as yours.<br>

Can you tell me, what are the left and right forearm pieces? My kit came with no labels or any identifiable marks, except that outside edges with 11 or 12 indents. Also did you see anything about the scoop on the inner forearm pieces. <br>

Matt

Edited by Mworm1974
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Hi Stephen,<br>

I just received my RS kit in the mail last week and your 100% right they took so much care in packing the kit I was really impressed. I initially was going with another set of armour that I will get later when it's ready but after reading Cristines build I went with RS for my first ever build<br>

## Christine, your build thread has made it to Australia too, I think I have looked at it possibly 10 or so times.<br>

Diana's build thread is good too and would be worth looking up. <br>

I had the same issue with the TD, I just slightly sanded the control panel bottom edge to line it up with the clips. There are a few FISD pointers for this one. Plus I have watched ANH a few times in the past few days to look at them. The top edge with the 'O' has the same little bump as yours.<br>

Can you tell me, what are the left and right forearm pieces? My kit came with no labels or any identifiable marks, except that outside edges with 11 or 12 indents. Also did you see anything about the scoop on the inner forearm pieces. <br>

Matt

The left arm has 11 indents, the right has 12. Good luck and go slow.

 

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Hi Matt, welcome to the FISD, like you I'm well chuffed I got the RS armour, and it was reading Christines thread that gave me the confidence to say "yeah, have a go at building it" and I'm glad I made that decision. Fragarock is spot on re the forearm pieces, the right one outer and inner is much wider than the left. Regarding the cut outs, Fragarock has covered this in his build thread, that too, like Christine's and Diana's is worth a look. <br><br>

Thanks for the tips on the TD

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Ok I've not done much the past few days, weather has been perfect so I've been mostly riding the bike .

 

Anyway I think the TD is looking better now , I've still not glued it, just in case

 

4d9e20feeee6ec969bba08968e2368e3.jpgb4010f8f6757f7c9ecd14bf50b697d7c.jpg

 

I've trimmed the chest return edges, are they ok?

 

e828b0378e78ed423b56bc27fa195482.jpg

 

2832cfa2697c602be0e4588168113d18.jpg

 

I think the cod needs more taking off?

 

25d29aeb48f9df63f36d7e922f390920.jpg

 

The butt piece has a grove line on the bottom of it, I've pencilled it in so you can see it, do I trim to that line?

 

47360e8a0a9baf8e0040116d6f80bad3.jpg

 

Not started the back piece, I haven't a clue how much to take off the sides as shown in the pic

 

8b1d11b7cf30cbff26875b7a3160daa8.jpg

 

I'm getting there but by bit .

 

Thanks for all the help

 

 

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Haha this is confusing on tapatalk, I thought I was replying as your armourer on the ukg forum lol

 

 

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Haha this is confusing on tapatalk, I thought I was replying as your armourer on the ukg forum lol

 

 

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Thanks Clive

 

 

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Well I've been looking at my TD today and I'm thinking something isn't quite right. I've looked the reference pics on FISD and also Christine's centurion application (I hope you don't mind me using some of your pics)

 

The pic is a reference pic from FISD, the next two from Christine

 

9d32c0712901e691717788f998d035c4.jpg

 

318ea8c2ae6314bf48d609d93f0f5e44.jpg

 

169289b0059bc6b2414d66cb4a3de75b.jpg

 

For some reason my control plate just doesn't look quite right, I mean it's as if the metal brackets need to go around the tube a bit more?

 

My TD, it's still not glued BTW

 

1cf94586cc12907aef9aa82a5a70d909.jpg

 

7c2254dae551145940f71749b69ef84d.jpg

 

0e962b0853fb905d12160cb68da7bdd6.jpg

 

a3e8bb6fa760cf89351fe71491fbef81.jpg

 

Now I'm thinking do I adjust the metal brackets so they bend around the tube a little more?

 

Another ref pic

 

75668ee12bb4b82fe4a9161e629fc035.jpg

 

And mine

 

c0592adebbd2c240d99fa36ce8984abe.jpg

 

On mine it looks like the bracket could be bent a little more around the tube up to the point it double backs on itself to make the clip...... what do you think?

 

Also I've been doing more trimming of the body pieces, sorry no pics, but I stool it together with duct tape and it seems to be fitting quite well for a small person. How do I work out how much I need to cut down the kidney and chest pieces? They seem to fit fine, but how do I know if the cod and butt pieces are too low?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

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