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HOWTO: ***UPDATED FIRST POST*** Make Black Series R1 TK bucket more accurate

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****UPDATE! 10/3/2017****

Note: This Update is the full tutorial on the major things that need to be done so that it can truly become an approvable R1TK Bucket.

 

 

 

 

Alright to start off, the bucket is sculpted really well and once held up to a screen grab, is nearly identical. However, obviously Hasbro took some liberties/changed some things around that will be modded/or will have to be left alone. One of the most noticeable things is that the cheeks of the faceplate are a little wider, thus resulting in the rest of the sides of the helmet being wider. However, this can't be helped much without taking extensive measures.

 

 

 

So let's get started.

 

List of materials needed for the following mods:

 

Bondo Filler.

Vacuum Line from the Auto Store.

E6000.

Loctite Superglue: Gel, and Liquid versions.

Weather Stripping for windows and such from Ace Hardware.

Door Heavy Rubber Weahter Stripping from Ace Hardware. Will be rolled up and short.

Your choice of polishing compound.

Dremel Tool with assorted bits.

Sanding paper: Grits 120, 150, 220, 1000, 15000.

Styrene Plastic (For Sale Signs, Parking Signs, etc...)

Black Caulk/

Rustoleum Ultra 2x White Gloss, Rustoleum 2x Blue spray paints.

Patience...

 

Highly Reccomended items:

Respirator (for breathing when using Bondo)

Pocket Knife (for prying)

Latex Gloves (for superglue contact on your finger)

 

 

*****Black Series R1TK Helmet modifications*****

 

IMPORTANT NOTE: For the first 2 steps I don't have pics, but they're pretty self explanatory.   

 

 

1. Gutting of the interior plastic wall.

 

Gut out the interior plastic wall in the back half of the helmet. This restricts head room (or is unwearable for us big headed folk), and gives you a headache (and plus, looks bad from the bottom). This one is pretty self explanatory, however, certain things should be mentioned. Sidenote: I highly recommend taking this entire section out to cut it before putting the helmet together, because once it's in the helmet, it's not that easy to cut, and the helmet is a little difficult to get separated (the skull cap has a hard time separating from the faceplate). 

 

2. Trim removal.

 

The next step was taking out the neck hole trim on the back half of the helmet. It just didn't line up with the neck hole trim in the front, so toss that. 

Luckily, this isn't molded into the plastic like the front neck hole section is, so it's easy to do.

 

3. Filling in the speaker and battery compartment.

 

The best way (and the way I reccomend) would be to use Bondo or Milliput. Being the experimental person I am, I did it the hard (and unnecessarily elaborate) way. Take your Plumbers Epoxy Putty, and push it hard into the speaker. Then take a flat, flexible object (heck maybe you could even use cardstock), and scrape the excess off. Leave all the rest of the putty in the holes. Let it sit. While you're waiting for that, go ahead and put e6000 over the battery compartment seam. Let it cure overnight (it won't matter in this case if it dries for 24 hours). Once both are dry, give them a sanding. I'd use the 220 for this part.

 

Next you're going to take your Loctite Liquid Superglue, and put it all along the seams of the battery compartment, and the speaker holes. As soon as you do this, put your finger on the superglue and smear it into a smooth surface over the holes and seams. This process will take multiple attempts to get smooth, but between each attempt sand it with 150 sandpaper and 220. 

 

It should look like this.

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WAIT ON PAINT! 

 

4. Bonding.

 

Time to bond the 2 bottom parts of the helmet together (DO NOT bond the skull cap yet, there's a few more things to do first). I used Loctite Superglue (I'd highly reccomend using the gel version for this), and placed it in between the halves at the ears, and the skull cap. With each part applied, press it hard so that the gaps and seams are as close to each other as possible. 

 

5. Vocoder, brow, and neck trim.

 

Now it's time to replicate one of the most noticeable features on this TK helmet: The vocoder tubes. Begin by prying the layer of rubber off of the vocoder section. I pried it off with a sharp pocket knife. Treat the knife as if it was a crowbar: Once it's under the surface, rock it back and forth, gradually pushing the knife in further underneath. Now this rubber is a pain in the butt to separate, so it'll tear off in sections, and your knife will carve notches into the plastic when your knife slips. Just be very careful. However, with patience you will be greatly rewarded. Be sure to check your health condition at this point, because your vocoder will look as hideous as in the picture below, and you could have a heart attack. 

 No automatic alt text available.

 

6. While we're tearing off the rubber, go ahead and tear the molded rubber off of the brow area, and the neck hole part of the front. This'll be necessary for continuing the vocoder. In the below image, I had already sanded the remaining rubber off, so it looks almost perfect. However, it will look just as hideous as the vocoder above...

 

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... And so will the brow...

 

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At this point the helmet will look anything but like a TK. Don't worry, because this is natural. But it is very rewarding in the end, trust me. 

 

7. Sanding time.

Go ahead and sand all of the surfaces where the rubber was. Use low grit 120 and work up to 220.

 

 

8. More work on the Vocoder.

 

In order to create that gap on the bottom between the 3 middle tubes and the 2 tubes on the edges, grab your Dremel tool with the cutting bit and chop off the bottom section of the plastic vocoder. It should look like this.

 

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Please ignore the crappy mic tips, those were my attempts to put real mesh in the Black Series mic tips, which failed. I opted instead for mic tips from Ukswrath, and he graciously painted the inside of them in black (which is accurate to R1). Thanks Tony!

In this picture you'll see where the rubber trim was for the neck hole at the jawline, and how far forward it was. For accuracy reasons, we'll be moving it back a little bit. 

 

9. Vocoder touch up.

 

Take a piece of Styrene Plastic and cut it into a small tab. This tab will go on the chopped off section of the vocoder, to close off the very visible cutout. Use Loctite Superglue or e6000 to glue it in place. After this I'd reccomend sanding the sides down until flush, and if the piece has a few gaps, fill in with a little bondo and sand again. 

Image may contain: one or more people and indoor

 

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10. Vocoder tubes.

 

Originally I went to the Auto store and bought a vacuum line hose, but it turned out too shiny, stiff, and formed kinks at the sharp angles. I went into my garage and found an older one, that was more dull and flexible, thus resulting in little to no kinks and the proper matt look of the screen used bucket.

 

Drill out the holes the tubes will go in. Put each one of these holes at the top and bottom of the vocoder ridges. NOT ABOVE OR BELOW. Directly on the ends.

In the above picture you can see how I put it in. THIS IS ONLY FOR A TEST FIT! DO NOT GLUE THE TUBES IN PLACE! I wrapped it in and out of the holes, to see how it'll go. Once you have a feel for it, take out the tubes.

 

11. Neck hole.

 

In the below picture you'll find that where the rubber was originally for the neck hole on the inside, it was molded into a recessed section along the jawline. This'll be perfect for where we'll put the extensions.

 

Image may contain: indoor

 

Take some styrene plastic scraps, and glue it to the interior of the helmet's neck hole. Do this all along the inside, have half of the pieces stick out. Make sure they are wide pieces too. Sometimes you'll need to glue another piece on top of some to make it stronger. Use superglue for this.

 

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12. Drill holes in neck hole extensions for vocoder tubes.

 

In the above picture you can see how the vocoder tubes go into the extension. Drill 3 holes in there for the tubes, all directly next to each other. Now because styrene is weak, your holes will have such thin seperations that they may break. Don't worry, this won't matter because nobody will see it.

 

13. Brow.

 

At this stage the helmet is unrecognizable...

 

This is natural... 

 

Going back to the brow, you can go ahead and superglue the skull cap to the helmet. Make sure it's tight. If there's a gap between the faceplate and the front of the skull cap, take styrene scrap pieces and insert it in with superglue. 

 

Next you're going to apply bondo all along the faceplate and skull cap seam. In the picture below don't pay attention to the rubber strip underneath the brow, that was from a previous attempt to recreate the low brow.

 

No automatic alt text available.

 

Once it's dry, give it a sanding with 220, and fill in any imperfections. Sand again until perfectly smooth.

 

Then you're once again going to pull out your superglue liquid and smear it all over the bondo and beyond the edges. This'll create a hard surface the paint can cling to. For some reason the spray paint we'll use has a bad reaction to bondo, causing it to be seen through the paint. The glue once hardened creates a plastic like surface and the paint won't react.

 

14. Assymetry to the right eye.

 

In the screen used Rogue One helmets, a subtle yet key feature leftover from the OT helmet is visible: the bump on the wearer's right eye. Look closely at the left eye from your view.

 

Image result for images of rogue one stormtrooper helmet display

 

You can see how the left eye in the below picture protrudes forward, unlike the BS next to it, where it just swoops inward.

 

Image result for images of rogue one stormtrooper helmet display

 

Here you can just build it up with bondo. Make sure it protrudes forward, and raises subtlely. 

 

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It should look like this.

 

Image may contain: outdoor

 

15. Hollow out the tube stripes.

 

I don't have pics for this, but drill out holes in each tube strip. Then, cut out the stripes with the dremel, using an etching bit. After this, file the stripes smooth with various files.

 

16. Jawline seams.

 

Take your dremel tool and cutting bit and create the jaw seams. Drag the dremel along the corner of the jaw at an angle, to create the desired look. Make sure it's not cut all the way through, we still want plastic to hold it together.

 

17. Time for paint.

 

PAINT THE HELMET! Mask off the grey sections carefully, and paint the entire helmet with Rustoleum 2X Ultra Coat Gloss white paint. Make sure they're even coats, and make sure they're not too thick. 

 

18. Reweave the vocoder.

 

Like the title says, reweave the vocoder through the holes. Once this is done, cut each of the extra tubing on the inside, leaving the vocoder tubes on the outside. Then e6000 them in place from the inside, so they'll stay there forever.

 

19. Neck hole rubber trim.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

Grab your weather stripping and cut off the thick plastic like part of it, along with the rubber edge holding it. You want it to have only 1 side with a curl, like so. --->

 

Wrap the curled end around the edges of the styrene extensions, and glue the top onto them. I would advice gluing the curled part as well.

 

It should look like this.

 

No automatic alt text available.

 

20: Blue backing for tube stripes.

 

I haven't gotten to this step yet, but paint some blue styrene plastic a nice blue color. Put this underneath the hollowed out tube stripes and glue it with e6000. Be very light, you dont want any of the glue visible in the exterior of the tube stripes, nor the e6000 actually melting the thin styrene. Believe me, I've run into this problem from going heavy on it. However, now matter how much you use, some melting will occur. This is normal. Just make sure you glue in areas that won't be seen I'd recommend doing it at the top and bottom of the blue strip.

 

21: Rubber brow replication.

 

Grab your thick door weatherstripping and cut 2 pieces: 1 wide, and 1 real thin. Grab the ral thin part and glue it at the bottom of the bondoed section of the skull cap. At this point you can be creative on how you achieve the angry look of some of the screen used costumes. I too some more rubber and applied it in the middle, THEN put the thin part on. This pushed it downward.

 

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After this take the wide part and glue it along the bottom of the front of the skull cap, and in front of the thin rubber piece. What this and the thin part does is, once put together, it creates an undercut that is lower than the original BS one was.

After gluing those in place, go over the underside with Black Caulk, that way no seam is visible. This helps a hoot.

 No automatic alt text available.

 

It'll look like the brow in this early attempt of mine (it wasn't low enough).

 

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The below picture is the final look I went for.

 

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21: Polishing.

 

Wetsand with 1000 - 15000 sandpaper, anywhere it's white. Then grab your polishing compound and apply it in small sections all over the white parts of the helmet, one section at a time. Then with a rough towel, rub it really hard into the surface. Wait a few seconds, then grab a smooth cloth and polish away. Put a lot of elbow grease into it! The more pressure, the more reflection.

 

22: FINISHED!!!

 

And there you have it! My Black Series mod. I'm still finishing mine, so the below pictures will not be complete. But I hope this helps! 

 

Image may contain: indoor

 

Image may contain: indoor

 

Image may contain: indoor

Edited by Parquette
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Thanks gmrhodes13.

I haven't done any mods lately (mainly because I havent made any trips to the hardware store), but my next move is to get some wire screen material to screen doors, and insert some behind the mouth. In movie close ups you can see a grill in between the teeth of the helmet, and on the black series is a black piece they put behind it. I'm going to take that out, and put the wire in, then screw the black piece back in.

 

Hopefully it should work fine! After that, I think it'll be on to putting padding in, then maybe, just maybe, get around to filling in those infernal cracks.

 

Btw, pro-tip: Make sure after screwing in the helmet frame after putting the lenses in that it is not warped in any areas, due to improperly being screwed in. There was a mini gap at the ear section with the brow, and I found it that some extremely small pegs were not inserted into their appropriate slots at the ears, so I reseperated it and pulled it back towards that peg slot.

 

Also, make sure your holes in your home made lens are big enough to be put over the screw slots, because it will make a big difference as to how your helmet frame sits. It caused a gap in between the skull cap and brow on mine, until I found out my center hole in my lens wasn't big enough and pushed in.

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Updated title to reflect the article. Please keep the pix/mod's coming.

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I've started to mod mine kinda as you have and been going round noting the (many) tiny details that there are to be addressed - one of them being the annoying gloss black outlines on the cheek and side grey panels - on the screen used there are no outlines - rather in fact it's shadow where they are actual inserts into the helmet and there's grit and muck in the little gaps.

 

15536608_10154709668539526_1484933964_o_

 

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also for real sticklers the tube stripes are actually cut right through the helmet and the blue is a plastic insert INSIDE the tube stripe/helmet ;) (you'll have to trust me on that one but it is kinda visible here where there's micron thin shadow between the white of the bucket and the insert)

 

28089834910_019dda3a55_o_zpsq9bkdpo7.jpg

 

here's how my inside looks after cutting the massive lump out of the back and removing the voice changer...

 

IMG_20161214_103653_resized_20161214_103

Edited by strangelysaucy

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Yup! All of that on the tube stripes is on my mind already! The tube stripes present a problem for me, mainly because without cutting areas of the ear inserts inside the faceplate it won't be possible.My main plan was to cut them out, put a blue painted strip of plastic in there, and depending on how snug the fit is, may not even need to glue it in, seeing as how in a recent interview they said it was an actual vent.<br><br>
In regards to the grey cheek panels, I would say it could pass a basic approval when a CRL comes out. I wouldn't fret too much about it, seeing as how you don't notice a difference until you really get up close to it.

Edited by Par_

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Sorry I haven't posted anything on the Black Series mods lately.

Added grill to the mouth, as seen on the screen used R1 helmet. Got some cheap screen wire from Ace Hardware in their screen section. They have little screen repair kits in small packets. I bought the black one because on the screen used helmer it isn't too visible, but I may go back just to highlight them a bit more (possibly repaint with aluminum spray paint or stee...l wool).

In the BS there is already a black piece behind the teeth screwed in. In order to keep it in place I unseeded it, stuck the grill sections over the pegs so that they poke through, then re-skrewed the black piece over it. Make sure it's tight so that it keeps the grill from moving around too much. I will advise putting something along the edges of the loose wire sticking out on the inside, cause this stuff does fray and even touch you when you slide the helmet on. Maybe glue the ends into place on the actual helmet itself.

15541196_382824935389664_614080130843263
 

 

15493724_382825265389631_933226281002241

 

Also, based off of this reference image provided above, the blue doesn't look like it's plastic at all. In an article recently they talked about how they designed the stripes to be vents, but the blue looked real close up to the underside of the white plastic, thus restricting the amount of air circulation passing through (unless on the side facing us where we can't see the stripes there is a gap that isn't visible from the front or sides). It looks very much like it's thin blue tape of sorts. Does anyone else see the diagonal little lines in the blue? It looks like pieces of tape overlapping each other. If anything, it might allow for easier air circulation to get in. For now I need to figure out how I am going to even cut out those stripes before planning any further down the road.

 

 

Plugged up the speaker on the Black Series, along with the battery compartment seam. There are better ways to plug them up, but here is what I did.

For the battery compartment I used e6000 glue to seal the seam, with a littke plumbers epoxy putty for the indentation at the bottom. Then, with more epoxy putty (this stuff is reccomended by Adam Savage and Cosplay Chris on youtube. I know his stuff is more cheap, but even Adam Savage on Tested reccomended this stuff), I plugged it into the speaker best I could, then with a bondo knife (tan flat scoop things by bondo), I scraped off the excess. It took away a few spots inside the speaker, but it's not bad. Sanded a little bit to make it flush, and I have 1 more thing to do to both the putty and the e6000: superglue.

What's that? Superglue won't do it? Well I've found that the loctite gel superglue makes an excellent filler, if there isnt too much to fill and you have enough of the glue. I'll put it on the holes and cracks in the putty, smear with my finger, and repeat the process until there are no holes. Now I need to do this to the e6000 area because e6000 is more latex like than hard, so if you sand it it'll fray at the edges. I'll go over the general edges/area with the superglue to ensure it is generically hard and doesn't fray.

Then sanding!

I will warn those who wish to use the putty tgat, it stinks. Even after drying after 20 minutes, it stinks. Smells like a bad stew really. And if you breath in enough of it you could get a headache.

15492363_383073328698158_779592110957584
 

15400325_383073582031466_669263023315941

Edited by Par_
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Keep it coming - looking to mod my BS now that I have the Jedha pack sorted.

 

Really interested to see what you are looking at regarding replacing the rubber seal / trim for the bottom edge - but waiting patiently so don't let me derail your build :-)

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Par_,

 

I think that whilst the R1 TK helmet had the mesh under the grill, I am sure that the attached reference shows that it was not 'backed' i.e. there is just the mesh in place. You can see the light or white of the helmet inside showing through.

 

28089834910_019dda3a55_o_zps0r56qqkq.jpg

 

The fantastic hi res image is available here:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8604/28089834910_019dda3a55_o.jpg

 

I also believe that the image shows that there is a black tramline running around the cheek and brow rhomboid. But, there is no doubt that these also have a greater 3D 'pop' than is present on the BS helmet.

 

Hope that this is helpful.

 

ireachy

Edited by ireachy

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Par_,

 

I think that whilst the R1 TK helmet had the mesh under the grill, I am sure that the attached reference shows that it was not 'backed' i.e. there is just the mesh in place. You can see the light or white of the helmet inside showing through.

 

28089834910_019dda3a55_o_zps0r56qqkq.jpg

 

The fantastic hi res image is available here:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8604/28089834910_019dda3a55_o.jpg

 

I also believe that the image shows that there is a black tramline running around the cheek and brow rhomboid. But, there is no doubt that these also have a greater 3D 'pop' than is present on the BS helmet.

 

Hope that this is helpful.

 

ireachy

 

Thanks for pointing that out! I opted to go with backing it with the original piece so that I had something to keep it in place, and not be see through (though because it's black I'm not sure how much you could see in). Just personal preference, though a person can do otherwise :)

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Next step: Filling in the speaker and battery compartment lid in the rear of the Black Series Rogue One helmet. I filled in the speaker with plumber epoxy putty, but I scraped off all the excess after pushing it in as much as I can. It will leave putty in the cracks, but there will be holes in the putty from scraping off the excess. Then I put e600 over the battery compartment lid, because it was difficult to get the putty into the cracks (unless you took out the lid, stuffed the putty on all the edges, then placed back in and removed the excess, which I didn't think of until after doing the e6000). After letting it dry most of the way (impatience) I put loctite superglue over it, because e6000 is more latex like and if you sand it it's edges slightly start to peel.

I tapped and smoothed the superglue on so it doesn't make drips and globs. I did this about 4-5 times to ensure everything was pretty smooth, sanding in between each time. It's pretty smooth now, but you need to sand. Also be prepared to have a coated finger of superglue. Lol I've used this stuff so much I'm used to getting superglue on my fingers.

Also I updated the brow: I put electrical tape on it to give it a better look on the underside instead of that plastidip job I did (accidentally ruined it when I tried to fix a problem). But because the tape us only do wide, I still have its edge showing at the top. Because of this for some reason it doesn't want to stick do well. It's not super bad at first glance but once you look into it you'll see it. I would put superglue underneath but that hazes and could ruin it. Oh well...

 

I'll post more steps soon :duim:  I also updated the interior with some spare padding I had laying around. It feels better, but still needs a little more.

15589624_385596905112467_228312501561780

 

15589893_385596965112461_343799051409743

 

Here's how the brow looks with the electrical tape. A big improvement, aside from the lack of stickiness at the edges, no matter how much I push it down. But the stuff works well for the effect, just may need to overlap the end with another piece. Note: it's best to dismantle the helmet's skull cap and faceplate so that you can have more freedom to put the tape on the brow, be it 2 separate strips or 1.

 

15621910_385656758439815_394899597800468

15578383_385597448445746_532969542773996

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Black series helmet update: I changed the brow to have electrical tape versus plastidip, because I only plastidiped the brow's underside instead of the entire thing, so the edges fray. Then after failing to get plastidip out of the can I untaped the helmet and some plastidip already on came off with it in an area or 2. So electrical tape works, and hopefully once a CRL is up and functioning, it could pass basic.

I also updated the interior with padding and a home made elastic... chin strap. It actually keeps the helmet on my head when I look down pretty well :) It was majorly inspired by the chin straps that the Shoretroopers have inside the helmet to keep it on the wearer, so I assumed that the Stormtrooper helmets have it as well.

 

Thoughts on brow welcome :) hopefully I'm not kidding myself with the tape (I have it slightly tucked into the skullcap so it stays down. This stuff's edges don't want to stick very well). Aside from a few wrinkles at the very ends of the brow where I tucked it into the helmet, it hopefully will pass. Here's to hoping!

 

15589853_386273421711482_615729105445923

 

15541621_386273785044779_704267808773752

 

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Here's the interior of my helmet, with 2 different kinds of padding.

 

15621637_386274191711405_744585548250463

 

15672688_386274391711385_199230581546198

Edited by Par_

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Went and saw Rogue One again for the 2nd time (first was at premiere night). Had to take a pic with the poster and helmet!

 

15697294_387125591626265_910088405261422

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Here's a mock up of my Rogue One Black Series so far with all my mods. Today I did a rough cut at the tie stripes, and once cleaned up with a file or something, I'll put some blue tape underneath. Why blue tape? You see overlap lines in the blue portion of the tube stripes, which makes it look like tape. They did say it was designed as an actual functioning vent for easier breathing, so it'd make a little sense.

Mainly I cut the indentations out with a rotary tool using a blade, and a bit to fix the edges. Be very careful when doing this cause you can mess up by accidentally trailing off and making cut lines along the surface.

 

Also how I put on the electrical tape is by separating the helmet sections, and I put 2 pieces of tape on the brow. One for the underside and middle front of brow, and the other for entire front of brow and top. You want to make sure no bubbles or separation is occurring, this will effect the overall life and look of the tape. Maybe putting superglue under the tape's edges so that it stays down? I'm thinking of doing that with mine because for some odd reason the edges refuse to stick to the top.... but with the tape make sure no noticeable tape overlap or seams are present.

15726879_387963084875849_503146913009267

 

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15697459_387963801542444_873180673883853

 

15665846_387963994875758_233670382470938

 

I'll get to documenting the neck hole trim later, but I will say that drilling out the tube stripes is a pain in the neck to try and get perfect with a rotary tool. I'll need to get a file of sorts or something that can fix the edges and make it more cleaned up.

 

Also, Merry Christmas everyone!

Edited by Par_
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Greetings,
My wife got me the 'Star Wars' The Black Series STORMTROOPER helmet at Black Friday this year for Christmas. After reading some reviews, I found more Negative reviews than Positive ones; mainly because Hasbro boasted about the Voice Changer they fell short on that promise.
 
Is it possible to 'tinker' with the helmet to Fix the Voice Changer? If so, who knows or how can it be done?

PS: I realize this comment could be a thread on its own; however, this OP's thread is about tinkering with the helmet I felt my comment would be appropriate here.
Edited by Vaphil
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No need to worry Vaphil, a completely appropriate question :)

 

It is very possible, with even some Youtube tutorials which were made on the topic. I personally haven't messed with the voice changer to make it sound better, and opted to gut the electronics out. I am planning on using a wireless microphone/speaker system I heard other 501st members using at my first troop (not 501st yet, but they let me :D ). Mainly to save money and time, one could go with the modifications route of the already existing speaker, but it definately wouldn't be the loudest speaker in the world. If one was at a crowd for instance at say an NHL game, it would be hard to talk over the crowd to another person without having to shout with your normal voice.

 

Hope this helps man! Good luck with your mods to your helmet! Merry Christmas btw!

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Par_, great work so far!! Can i ask, did you paint the entire bucket after filling the speaker slots and battery compartment? or was it easy to just paint match the back? 

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Thank you sir! Yeah painted it after filling in the area in the back :)<br>

I just painted the rear half of the helmet (not including top cap) with Rustoleum 2x Ultra Cover White gloss. While it isn't the best match, it's what I bought the other day so I'm using it ;)

Edited by Par_
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Black Series R1 mod. Next step, neck hole rubber edging. I was asked about how I'll be doing this, so here's what I bought and did. Then I'll also show you how the tube stripe vents are coming.

So I went to Ace Hardware and bought a pack of weather stripping. They come as one looped weather strip, and to be quite honest I don't know the official pricing, because the tag said around $30.00, but the cashier said it was in the computer as around $19.00, so I don't know which to ...believe. I'm more inclined to believe the computer, ha!

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Anyhow, it has a soft flexible part, and the other half is a really hard, almost wind shield wiper in looks, rubber. Cut that entirely off. You can see it in this image.

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Now you have only the soft part. I noticed that the overall shape is like a L with a hook at the top, which you can see in the above picture. I cut off the _ part of the L (interferes with final product), and used the hook as a place to slot over the neck hole of the helmet. After slotting on, I would trim it down to size, but I'd advise having it overlap with the front half of the helmet's trim, so that it looks much smoother. I'd also reccomend using a rotary tool to cut open any restricting areas in the ears of the helmet that keep the trim from sliding right over the neck hole.

 

Then its time to actually put it on for good. But before doing that I reccomend supergluing the neck hole edge before putting the rubber trim on.

Now you have a new trim! It's much more lined up than the old trim which didn't look any good. Hopefully this helps!

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Also regarding the tube stripes, to cut them out I'm using a rotary tool with a few bits (including saw bit), and some files to clean them up. I used the saw bit for the rotary tool first, then other bits to clean it up. But the files really do the cleaning. I'm not finished, but wanted to show how it's coming. Teaser for next update :D

 

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Next step in the Black Series mod: Adding jaw seam.

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In the actual screen used piece, people have pointed out a seam directly at the area where the cheeks and the jaw meet.

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Now on the Black Series this is 1 molded piece, so I had to make an artificial seam.

 

The most accurate way to do this would be to completely seperate the jaw from the rest of the helmet and reattach through adding shims in the underside, but because that'd be a struggle, the best solution is to cut an groove all along the area where the seam should be. So using a rotary tool with a saw bit, make a cut into the corner, but not a deep cut, just an indent that's a little deep. Cut it too deep, then you make an actual cut, which in this case we don't want. Make sure to bring it in and out to do make a groove easier. But be steady with it, cause if you rush it you risk going off course and making unwanted cuts. After you've made the groove, sand both at the edges and inside it to get rid of any rough sections. Take extra care to sand out and remove any ABS plastic shards that didn't come off easily.

 

Now comes the fun part. Making it highlighted to look like a seam. This method is a common way of weathering prop replicas. You'll need 3 things; Black Acrylic paint, a brush, and a spray bottle filled with water.

Spray down the jaw's groove with water, and then immediately in a light quantity apply the acrylic paint with the brush. As soon as you do this you'll need to wipe it down, leaving behind only what is left in the groove. This'll make the indent darker and more black, giving the idea that it's got a shadow in the seam.

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For any areas that are too dark, you can rub it down with soapy water and sand paper. I'd suggest a super fine grit, so no lines are easily visible.

This thing is coming along and looking a whole lot more like a proper R1 TK Helmet. More to come :D

 

Next update: Repainting the rear half with possibly a better paint... we'll see how it goes... :smiley-sw013: 

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Par_,

 

good to see the neck trim trick. I have looked at using some OT S-shaped trim but it looks a tad too bulky, so will have a play with your weather excluder idea. Also have some excess trim from X-wing helmet so that may be a go-er too.

 

The cheek tubes are looking great. That is the part that I am likely going to leave to last as it scares the heck out of me - too much opportunity for a catastrophic slip with the Dremel!!!

 

Good spot on recreating the nose / jaw separation line. Something that I will now look to do on mine.

 

I may post some WiP pics of my lid here, but don't want to clutter your build thread.

 

Best,

ireachy

Edited by ireachy
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Thank you Ian! Yes I have to say the cheek tubes are scary to do, I've messed up on a few areas. Howeer, nothing a little Loctite Superglue gel won't fill (obviously may need some white touch up paint though xD )

 

Look forward to seeing your mods! The X-wing trim may work too, anything that works helps :D I will recommend for the jaw seamline that it's more of an angular cut, and not at the side all that much. I did this on mine, and it makes it look like a gap. If you went more towards the top of the actual jaw itself it would look better.

Edited by Par_

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