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HOWTO: Shoretrooper Helmet Painting Tutorial. By Paul Prentice (tutorial on page 6)


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Before I weather the helmet I glue the snout and cheek greeblies in place using Loctite Super glue precision. The forehead is glued in place using E6000. Once everything is fixed in place it can be weathered as a whole to tie it all together.

 

I am using these 3 colours to weather and dirty the helmet. I use 3 colours to keep it simple yet effective.

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The acrylic paint is mixed ver thin. Basically I am replicating muddy water. I have an atomiser which is an old kitchen surface cleaner bottle that I use to spray on the paint mix.

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This part of the process is fun and you cant really go wrong. The paint is very thin so if you do too much you can remove the excess with a soft damp cloth. Keep layering the different colours, allow to dry a little and rub off with the cloth leaving the paint to build up in the cracks and crevices. I use a hair dryer to speed up the process.

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I also use my airbrush to blow paint into corners to get a dusty effect.

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A dry scouring pad can be used to lightly scratch the surface and rub back the weathering revealing the brighter colours underneath.

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Keep repeating these techniques until the required overall look is achieved. I also use a toothbrush to flick paint and wire wool to add further scratches. Be creative and try to replicate the wear and tear this helmet would receive in the real world. I use 70% rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth to remove the acrylic paint if i have overdone the weathering or if I want some areas cleaner than others.

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Edited by mr paul
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Because the recessed panel line is not accurate on the BSP helmet, and I was too late in fixing this problem before painting, I have chosen to lay a 2mm strip of black neoprene foam into this feature to bring it up flush with the surrounding surface. I am happy for now and if i feel the need to mod it in the future I will revisit it.

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Here are some pictures of the finished details up close. The lens is held in place with tape from the inside and black 2mm neoprene has been cut to shape for the lower eye lids. I have stuck this to the lens using 3m Spray Mount Repositionable Adhesive sprayed onto the neoprene. It is strong enough to hold the neoprene in place and allows you to position it correctly without getting glue over the lens. Also it can be removed if needed. The chinstrap can now be fixed back into the helmet along with the foam head support.

 

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Edited by mr paul
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Fantastic paint job on this helmet, it really looks like it's seen action, been dropped, kicked about and had things ricochet off it, yet still retain a unique "Real World" feel.

 

I think I need one of these just based on how good you have made it look.

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Here is the finished helmet. 

 

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A great piece from Back Stage Props and well worth getting either as a display piece or part of your full armour build. I will be using pretty much the same techniques when painting and weathering the armour. I hope this tutorial has been useful. Have fun painting your bucket and any questions you may have please feel free to ask. Thank you for looking and thanks again for your kind comments.

Edited by mr paul
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Wow  man....

what a great paint and wheatering job.

By the way you work I think you painted some models

before. ;)

Mayby 1:35 or something like that...

Yes I have experience with smaller scale modelling 1/16th, 1/6th 1/1 scale. 2d art as well. Techniques can transfer over to different scales. Some things work and some don't. I take whatever works and run with it. The process I used on the Shoretrooper helmet is relatively simple and I used paints and tools that are readily available. Hopefully the results are achievable for people with all levels of experience.

Edited by mr paul
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  • 2 weeks later...

This right here is a hidden gem amidst a treasure trove of information:

 

The lens is held in place with tape from the inside and black 2mm neoprene has been cut to shape for the lower eye lids. I have stuck this to the lens using 3m Spray Mount Repositionable Adhesive sprayed onto the neoprene. It is strong enough to hold the neoprene in place and allows you to position it correctly without getting glue over the lens. 

 

DSC_1750_zpsfoq7ryi0.jpg

 

 

 

I missed that in my first couple of read-throughs. Fantastic idea!

 

Also, did you hit the helmet with a final gloss or semi gloss coat, to hold in the acrylics?

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This right here is a hidden gem amidst a treasure trove of information:

 

 

I missed that in my first couple of read-throughs. Fantastic idea!

 

Also, did you hit the helmet with a final gloss or semi gloss coat, to hold in the acrylics?

Hi Bill, no final coat of varnish was needed but if you wish to add that to your own helmet it would not do any harm. Thank you for your comments ;)

Edited by mr paul
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I assume you ordered the AT-ACT (or Tank Trooper) helmet and NOT the Shoretrooper helmet. They are totally different

It would be great to see a post that shows them side by side somewhere, with the differences.

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Not sure how I missed this. Great comprehensive tutorial! Once I finally get my helmet printed I'll have to come back to these tutorials and follow them as best I can.

There is a helmet on thingiverse I am currently trying to print, but I have a davinci 1.0 so as of now its not going well.

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There is a helmet on thingiverse I am currently trying to print, but I have a davinci 1.0 so as of now its not going well.

That's Sean's one which is the one I have.  I have a printrbot play which is only 4x4x5" so between the 54 pieces I've cut it into and a roughly 60% sucess rate it's taking a while.

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Yea at $20+ a can I think I'll have it color matched and buy it in the quart size and use a spray gun.

Tony, in so-cal, the paint is obo $8-11/400ml can.

Also, Rustoleum 7771 sand is a damn close match. ;)

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