Dragon_a[TK] Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 17 hours ago, Morgul702 said: Do we know whats up with the weird hook on the bicep piece just under the shoulder bell. Its even on the Hot Toy TKs On that last pic it looks more like the "hook" is actually a slot cut into the bicep. Also is the the hole just below the right shoulder attachment point found on all RO troopers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 6 minutes ago, Dragon_a said: On that last pic it looks more like the "hook" is actually a slot cut into the bicep. Also is the the hole just below the right shoulder attachment point found on all RO troopers? It's to hold the bell down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragon_a[TK] Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 17 minutes ago, ukswrath said: It's to hold the bell down So there's something attached to the underside of the bell that hooks into that slot? If you look at the first pic you can also see a slot in the top of the bicep with some strapping coming out, over the top of the bicep and under the bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Just now, Dragon_a said: So there's something attached to the underside of the bell that hooks into that slot? If you look at the first pic you can also see a slot in the top of the bicep with some strapping coming out, over the top of the bicep and under the bell. Yes with the FOTK it was a clear spaghetti strap connected to the bell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlyFox740[TK] Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 On 10/8/2017 at 11:27 PM, ukswrath said: With a tactical light and shoulder strap. Never noticed that before On 10/8/2017 at 11:28 PM, Daetrin said: Thanks. We'll have to update the CRL when we add L2/L3. On 10/8/2017 at 11:36 PM, gmrhodes13 said: I updated my DLT-19 a while back from that image Yes the Rogue One DLT-19 Optional Accessory Should be updated to include the sling as well as the flashlight. It's there 100%, here's another image from the visual guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parquette[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Here's a good image Gmrmodes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parquette[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 1 hour ago, Dragon_a said: On that last pic it looks more like the "hook" is actually a slot cut into the bicep. Also is the the hole just below the right shoulder attachment point found on all RO troopers? Yes, the hole on the backarmor is on all troopers. Even the Hot Toys version has the hole featured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 2 hours ago, SlyFox740 said: L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Does Hasbro even make a R1 blaster? I haven't seen one. If not it doesn't need mentioning -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 version with wide front foot is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Small eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -Scope Rail is mounted approximately 3/4" above the top of the blaster. Doesn't need mentioning at any level -A flashlight shall be mounted to the right side of the blaster centered over the T-tracks. Flashlight is a real or a replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. -No ROTJ Greeblies allowed are on the blaster. Doesn't need mentioning L3 -Hasbro/Disney toy blasters are not allowed, not even conversions. Same as above -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function). Already a L2 requirement -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. L2 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope with wide front foot.Already a L2 requirement -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with small eagle logo. Already a L2 requirement -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. Already a L2 requirement -A correct flashlight shall be mounted to the right side of the blaster centered over the T-tracks. Flashlight is a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. Already a L2 requirement My 2 cents above in red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlyFox740[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) 34 minutes ago, ukswrath said: My 2 cents above in red Okay I updated the list to reflect the changes. Although some of the listings you mentioned are actually worded differently from level 2 to 3, namely the difference between "Is Preferred" and "Shall Be" but I have elaborated further on these points now. I've left the modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster because if someone can add a resin flashlight to a DoopyDo's for basic approval, then it's no different than someone adding a dollar store flashlight to a toy blaster for basic approval. But as you can see the requirements for Level 2 and Level 3 become more and more stringent. I don't think any level should require any actual real parts as many of the props on screen were resin or rubber cast, but there were also props made with real parts if someone wishes to go all the way and use real found parts. L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 version with wide front foot is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Small eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -A flashlight shall be mounted to the right side of the blaster centered over the T-tracks. Preferred flashlight is a real or a replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope with Wide front foot. Narrow front foot is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Medium or Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. -A correct flashlight shall be mounted to the right side of the blaster centered over the T-tracks. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. Edited October 12, 2017 by SlyFox740 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 9 minutes ago, SlyFox740 said: Okay I updated the list to reflect the changes. Although some of the listings you mentioned are actually worded differently from level 2 to 3, namely the difference between "Is Preferred" and "Shall Be" but I have elaborated further on these points now. I've left the modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster because if someone can add a resin flashlight to a DoopyDo's for basic approval, then it's no different than someone adding a dollar store flashlight to a toy blaster for basic approval. But as you can see the requirements for Level 2 and Level 3 become more and more stringent. I don't think any level should require any actual real parts as many of the props on screen were resin or rubber cast, but there were also props made with real parts if someone wishes to go all the way and use real found parts. L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 version with wide front foot is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Small eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -A flashlight shall be mounted to the right side of the blaster centered over the T-tracks. Preferred flashlight is a real or a replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. -No ROTJ Greeblies allowed are on the blaster. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope with Wide front foot. Narrow front foot is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Medium/Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. -A correct flashlight shall be mounted to the right side of the blaster centered over the T-tracks. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. Does the 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope come with a narrow front foot? If not, I'd say let's remove the option in the wordage. Anyone else have an opinion on the matter? Same with the Counter, does it even come with a large eagle logo if not remove "Small eagle logo is preferred" from L2 Remove "correct" from the L3 flash light sentence, it's redundant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlyFox740[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) No you're right it doesn't I was just trying to be thorough. 1943 has a wide front foot, 1942 has narrow front foot. L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centered over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Small eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Medium or Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. Edited October 12, 2017 by SlyFox740 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Nice work Henry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slave1pilot Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Sly fox nailed it I hope we made our rubber blaster good enough for him lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 2 minutes ago, slave1pilot said: Sly fox nailed it I hope we made our rubber blaster good enough for him lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Well I have one so I hope so also lol . Actually I think yours is pretty spot on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlyFox740[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) Thank you There are several variations of Hengstler Counters but the only version seen in Rogue One is the Small eagle logo. So It should be specific for Level 3 approval. Please don't hesitate to let me know if anyone has any other ideas to contribute. Edited October 12, 2017 by SlyFox740 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 3 minutes ago, SlyFox740 said: Thank you There are several variations Hengstler Counters but the only version seen in Rogue One is the Small eagle logo. So It should be specific for Level 3 approval. For the flashlight, The screen accurate flashlight is preferred for Level 2 approval but the correct flashlight is a requirement for Level 3. Does anyone else have any suggestions or objections? Well I'll tell you neither Andrew or myself will make any applicant pull out a ruler for the eagle . Large and small is obvious. So maybe mention "Eagle" is required. L2 forget mentioning the size. No objections on the flashlight wordage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slave1pilot Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Whew Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlyFox740[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centered over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlyFox740[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) 4 minutes ago, slave1pilot said: Whew Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk That's definitely Level 3 worthy Nathan!, it even has the correct plastic socket cover. You can clearly tell because of the mold injection points. I didn't bother mentioning the plastic socket cover in the CRL. They don't even come with a window for the eagle logo, it has to be modified to have the window cut out. This is all explained in my Blaster Reference Thread Edited October 12, 2017 by SlyFox740 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 10 minutes ago, slave1pilot said: Whew Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Of course, I looked before I posted lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlyFox740[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) 5 hours ago, Daetrin said: Hey Henry question back to you before I update the CRL. How many of these details do you think should be in L2/L3 vs. L1? for instance if I broke it down: L1 L2 L3 What do you think would make sense? Okay Paul I think we're getting close to being ready to update the E-11 optional accessory requirement listing, appropriate photographs will follow soon. L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centered over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. Edited October 12, 2017 by SlyFox740 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slave1pilot Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Sly fox nailed it I hope we made our rubber blaster good enough for him lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlyFox740[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 4 minutes ago, slave1pilot said: Sly fox nailed it I hope we made our rubber blaster good enough for him lol Oh you definitely did, I believe your Preatorian Blasters R1 E-11 should be Level 3 Approved right out of the box. That's why I want to use it for the CRL Photos if possible, it's basically the exact same thing most of the suit actors held in their hands during production. Only a few of the props meant for close ups were based on an actual airsoft gun. I am building an R1 E-11 blaster with all real parts, it will be VERY HEAVY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parquette[TK] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Daetrin, would it be possible we could make the beveled edges on tge coverstrips Lvl 2? The Deathtrooper CRL has flat edge coverstrips on the model and it's approvable. Plus making beveled edges is dificult and tedious to make perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daetrin[Admin] Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Henry - thanks for breaking this down and shepherding the changes. CRL is updated based on the latest iteration. https://origin-wiki.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_rogue_one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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