TK-Tom[501st] Posted July 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Why second thoughts on painting the helmet? I really don't see much downside to it. K, Mark Sinclair had some good points over on the FB page. I was already to go, but anyways, I just wasn't feeling at ease about it for some reason. After thinking about it alot, I figured I can still do it later, so I think it will be better for me to finish my "Tweak" list, get official approval, troop a couple times, and see how things pan out. I also have to get my fans and electronics rigged yet too. I always tend to bite off more than I can chew, then I get overwhelmed. Just gotta get my list written down and take it one item at a time. I am also going to have to do a better job of storing the armor. I put it neatly into my bin (I thought), and when I brought it out to work on various parts, one of my thighs rear cover strip came a little loose, a corner of the knee ammo belt was bent a little, and had some other quick things I had to patch up. And I did not even troop yet~! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) So here is my TD canister...the screws ARE painted black. Like I said, not sure why they did not look that way in the photos. Must be because the photos are so huge when they post here, that they are grainy. Edited August 1, 2016 by TK-Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 So the position of the biceps will not allow me to have bicep clips, so this is how I had to rig them to keep them in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Debating on changing the bra clips system on the shins for velcro. The gap seems just a little excessive to me, but not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Great job Tom. The TD screws are to be pan head and slotted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Great job Tom. The TD screws are to be pan head and slotted I have not been able to find those anywhere. Is it required for EIB? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Once I cleanup the painting that I did, is this ok for the extended frown? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 I have not been able to find those anywhere. Is it required for EIB? No they are not required for EIB, only Centurion L3. In my build tutorial I suggested since neither the ear screws or the TD screws are correct for L3 people should replace them. The ear screws are remarkably close to accurate and will work for the TD, which leaves you only needing to buy ear screws which should be "V" head and slotted. There are a couple sellers here on the FISD if you're interested. Once I cleanup the painting that I did, is this ok for the extended frown? The frown extension looks great, just be sure to clean up around the teeth. Keep up the great work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy320 Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Looking good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 I have not been able to find those anywhere. Is it required for EIB?Tom, check my build thread for discussion on this. As Tony said, not required, so you can wait if you want, but it's very easy since you literally just steal the helmet ear screws (which are perfect for the TD) and use them for the TD, then buy $1 worth of electrical box screws from any hardware store (photo of an actual package from Home Depot is in my thread) to replace the helmet screws you removed. And of course paint them (black for TD and white for helmet). As long as you can unscrew a screw, there's truly nothing complicated about this particular swap. Nice, easy accuracy mod... my favorite! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) Kman, its an easy fix for sure, but I installed those big phillips head screws (with the pointed ends on them) into the TD brackets already. Which now means, that the holes in the TD are much bigger than the screws from the ears are. Which means they will not fit in there securely now. And even if I did not mess that up ahead of time, the ear screws do not have self tapping, pointed ends on them. How would I get them into the TD? Would I have to drill holes? I jumped the gun on the TD assembly and blew it. Did not read UKSWrath's post on it before I did it. Ughh!~ Edited August 1, 2016 by TK-Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Kman, its an easy fix for sure, but I installed those big phillips head screws (with the pointed ends on them) into the TD brackets already. Which now means, that the holes in the TD are much bigger than the screws from the ears are. Which means they will not fit in there securely now. And even if I did not mess that up ahead of time, the ear screws do not have self tapping, pointed ends on them. How would I get them into the TD? Would I have to drill holes? I jumped the gun on the TD assembly and blew it. Did not read UKSWrath's post on it before I did it. Ughh!~ Hey Tom, I'm assuming the TD end caps are glued, E6000 or CA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) The end caps are NOT glued. The fit was so tight that I just popped them on. Took some muscle to do so. But the plate is CA glued to the grey canister. Edited August 1, 2016 by TK-Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 The end caps are NOT glued. The fit was so tight that I just popped them on. Took some muscle to do so. But the plate is CA glued to the grey canister. Easy enough. Remove the caps and Philips head clip screws, install the ear screws, maybe some flat washers on the inside of the tube if necessary, add a dab of E6000 on the threads to keep the nuts from loosening over time, paint and you're set. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) ^^ Exactly. Also, you might find lock nuts that are the right size at a hardware store, and just use those inside to thread the new screws into. The heads will not slip through the aluminum straps, so no issues there. I switched from the Anovos screws to the helmet ear screws, too. No issues using the holes that the Anovos screws made. Edited August 1, 2016 by kman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 So glad I have some awesome advisors. I am not very mechanically inclined, so thx for the advice! I will give it a go, hopefully I can get those end caps off without damage. They went on pretty hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Fingernails, and go slow. They should come off. A second pair of hands may come in handy, to hold the tube while you "claw" them off. It's good that they don't come off easily, for the most part. They'll go on easier the second time. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Mission accomplished. Also, my length should be good (7.5" with end caps on) mine is under 7.5" with them off, so with them on, it should be hovering right about 7.5" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 The march towards total screen accuracy continues... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 The top thread of my holster has come un-done. It is still in the proper location, but will CA or E6000 glue work to keep it from working its way out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 This happened when I started working the holster with my hands to break it in, so it will fit my HFX E-11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Tie it in a knot, if you can't, glue it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-Tom[501st] Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) Tie it in a knot, if you can't, glue it. CA or E6000 preferred/better? Too short to tie in knot. Edited August 2, 2016 by TK-Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 CA or E6000 preferred/better? Too short to tie in knot. Good question, it's leather and nylon. I personally would try E6000. Don't trim the nylon back, apply E6000 to the leather, lay the nylon stitching into the glue then cover with painters tape. Don't cover the area completely with tape as air is needed to cure the glue. Worth a shot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) I concur, give E6000 a shot first. If that doesn't work I might consider leather glue, actually. Any shoe repair place ought to have plenty, and if you have a reasonable one they'll probably glue it for a buck or two. Edited August 2, 2016 by kman 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.