Dakari FOTK Build - Jimmiroquai's Kit - Tips, tricks and general questions...

[Dakari[TK]]

HI Gang:

 

So, like many before me I'm in the process of building my first TK.  I chose the FOTK kit offered by Jimmiroquai, which as most of us know is made of flexible fiberglass.  I'm not going to do a traditional build thread here; there are plenty of those here at FISD and all of which are helpful.  Instead I'm planning to focus on some of the components of the build that I have found challenging, some cheats that I have used in working with this kit, and some upgrades that I am applying to the armor.  I've got plenty of work behind me, plenty more ahead, and plenty of challenges ahead of me.

 

 The most important aspect of this build to keep in mind is this:

 

You can do it!

 

 There is plenty of help available here at FISD and at your local Garrison level.  Read, save photos for reference, and ask questions on threads.  I haven't found anyone yet that is unwilling to offer guidance...Troopers helping Troopers!

 

My armor components are as follows and are all in-hand:

 

Armor - Jimmiroquai

Gaskets - Jimmiroquai

Soft Pouches - Jimmiroquai

Helmet - Anovos Standard

Undercut and Neck Gasket - StormtrooperUndersuit.com

Boots and Gloves - Imperial Boots

SE44C Officer's Pistol - MO3D Designs

F11D Blaster - Hesston 3D Solutions

 

Some of the topics I plan on hitting are:

Tools

Trimming the biceps and thighs

Lens removal and upgrade, Anovos Standard

Magnetic socket build for shin closures (Thanks TK-4205!)

 

Hopefully much more with magnetics!

 

As time permits I'll be adding the above topics to the thread.  Tonight I'm working on uploading pics to Photobucket and learning how to edit...a learning process much like the build!

 

That's enough hot air out of me tonight.  Next time they'll be pics!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking forward to the pics and progress

[JAFO[TK]]

Looking forward to this thread Kev.

[Dakari[TK]]

Ok, so I mentioned that I would share some of the different tools that I have found to be useful in building my kit.  Since I'm building a Jimmiroquai it's made of flexible fiberglass.  I'm no Dremel master, so I was looking for something else to cut the material with.  I found that using Aviation Snips worked awesome in this material, allowing me to make nice, curved cuts in this material without throwing up dust. Trimming the biceps and Thighs was a breeze...

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK%20Tools/IMG_3454_zpsr3aobhji.jpg

 

Other tools that I have found to be helpful in my build have been a 1 1/4" hole saw, a 1/4" to 3/4" step drill bit, 7/32" round file (used for chainsaw sharpening), a flat file, a precision file set, emery boards - for cleaning up the seams and details, a snap installation tool and snaps/buttons, and a Weller Porta-sol Butane soldering kit, for making holes in nylon strapping.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FullSizeRender%203_zps7vecey2z.jpg

 

Adhesives I'm using include E6000, Bob Smith Insta Flex CA, Insta Set, and Loctite Marine 300psi and Plastic 3200psi 2 part epoxies.

 

Fillers include Bondo of course and Apoxie Scult, a 2 part molding epoxy that is awesome to work with.

 

This is stuff that is in addition to the typical sandpapers, utility or X-acto knives and of course the obligatory Dremel.

 

Kinda basic post, but I'm still learning to post to and from Photobucket... 

[Fedaykin[TK]]

For making holes in nylon straps, i tend to use a lighter and a needle Not highly professional, but highly affordable and gets the job done.

[Dakari[TK]]

For making holes in nylon straps, i tend to use a lighter and a needle Not highly professional, but highly affordable and gets the job done.

I can see how that would work just fine.  I just happened to have the Butane Soldering tool kicking around, 

[Dakari[TK]]

One of the most interesting finds while searching the boards has been the use of magnetic closures. TK 4205 has a thread up here about building magnetic sockets for use as closures on the shins, and has also shown them used on the Ab's.  I felt this was something I wanted to try.  As you know, I have an aversion to the Dremel, and Wyatt's post has him using one to create round sockets in which a magnet is mounted.  I came up with a way which eliminated the Dremel, and has worked well on my shins.

 

Tools - Cordless Drill, 1 1/4" Holesaw, 1/4" - 3/4" Step Drill Bit

 

Materials - 1/16" and 1/8" ABS, .70" diameter N52 magnets, CA Glue

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3427_zpsdnnrtyk8.jpg

 

The first thing that I did was to cut out 1 1/4" circles of 1/16" ABS for the sockets.  This thickness is used to keep the magnets from coming in direct contact from each other.  I put the ABS on a 2X6 and cut them out using the holesaw, removing the cut-out slug each time.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/9742559f-9e22-4c78-93c0-9964d2ff8298_zps5nx0waws.jpg

 

Then I used a utility knife to clean up the edges and set them aside.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3438_zpstjg0ayly.jpg

 

I then place the 1/8" ABS on the same board and cut 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through the ABS.  This also leaves a pilot hole in the ABS and another in the 2X6 which you use later on.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3431_zpsa2sxdy57.jpg

 

Next, I took the Step drill bit and bored out the pilot hole, taking it to the step drill's maximum diameter of 3/4" (Terrible pic...Sorry!)

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3432_zps3bhbmlrd.jpg

 

I return the ABS to the 2X6, and put the holesaw back on the drill.  Center the 3/4" hole over the pilot hole found in the 2X6 and insert the point in the hole, lining up the holesaw with the partially made cut.  Finish the cut with the holesaw.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3434_zpsjhpeqhmr.jpg

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3437_zps61o6intx.jpg

 

Pop out the socket and clean it up with a utility knife.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3438_zpstjg0ayly.jpg

 

I next took the base and the socket and used CA glue to join them.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3442_zpsiviif7gi.jpg

 

...And took the magnet and affixed it inside the socket using CA as well.  I may use 2 part epoxy on my next socket build as it tends to have a heavier body than CA.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/c7da716e-0d00-4072-be10-ab1e442a7867_zpsbqpzgy8m.jpg

 

Completed sockets

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3426_zpsbpp1ofem.jpg

 

I used the same step drill to make 3/4" locating holes in my shins.  My plain magnets are affixed to the side WITHOUT the holes, and are glued in place.  The sockets are placed OVER the holes in the shins, with the socket base covering the hole, preventing the magnets from coming in contact violently, causing them to break...and they will!

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o714/Dakari99/FOTK/IMG_3424_zpsrvmfzkxq.jpg

 

I'm looking at other area of my armor where this attachment method may come in handy, possibly the chest plate to yoke.

 

In any event, I hope this may have helped some of you with making the magnetic sockets, and again, my thanks to Wyatt, TK 4205, for sharing this method and allowing me to show another way to make his sockets.

[sylverbard[TK]]

Your chest only connects to the back at the sides. Might work but will need to be raised a bit its a hollow meeting place.