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Extra Small FO Stormtrooper


Jonnyboy0121

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Hi all,

 

First time poster here - I'm currently working on a extra small version of Stormtrooper armor. At 5'2 and 120 lbs I have enough trouble finding well fitting clothing as it is. So, I've decided to 3d print my own customly sized suit. I started from various files I was able to download on the RPF forums, which I believe were originally ripped from a Star Wars app. 

 

post-28437-0-74647100-1466363019_thumb.jpg

 

I scaled them down to fit over a 3d scanned version of myself, made them high poly and 3D printable and printed out so far the chest, back and shoulder bell armor. 

 

NJNZ660.jpgZ1isLbU.jpgI0pTyTW.jpgJ2iAsem.jpg

 

I'm wondering if anyone has input in regards to the fit of what I have printed. A 501st coworker of my thought it looked proportionally small on me but unfortunately doesn't have access to his armor for reference at the moment. What do you think? I have about a 1 to 1.5 inch of space inbetween the armor and my body. 

 

Also, I see that the common way of approaching the yoke is to combine the part that extends over the front of your body with the back piece with glue and bondo. I heard there are issues with that area of the yoke cracking and was wondering if anyone has attempted slush casting the back plate as 1 piece? Would that even be possible? 

 

Another question I have is molding itself. As I have it currently I printed the plates as flat pieces. I did this so the pieces would print quicker and use less material. But I'm wondering if what I should have done was model a lip on the edges of plates, so at least the edges would have a thickness to them when casting. My thinking is it'd make controlling the thickness of my slush casts easier as well. What do you think?

 

post-28437-0-32893300-1466363837_thumb.jpgpost-28437-0-32787500-1466363781_thumb.jpg

 

My next steps I believe are resizing and reprinting. After that I plan on moving on to the helmet.  Thanks in advance for your advice!

 

Edit: added larger photos

Edited by Jonnyboy0121
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​where on the rpf did you find the files?? :)

 

 

 

 

Thanks so much everyone, I'll keep you posted on progress.

 

I found the .OBJ file here:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=242693&highlight=fisherk2

 

I believe Fisherk2 used that ripped game model and went ahead to make a pepakura version of it. He was kind enough to share it as well:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=244012&highlight=fisherk2

 

I cross-referenced the geometry and it appears like the topology is the same as the ripped game model on all the pieces except the helmet. So I'm not sure where to give credit for that.

 

The files aren't quite ready to be 3d printed and require a bit of rework just fyi. 

 

Hope that helps!

Edited by Jonnyboy0121
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I simply would use the Same parts manufacture in shape and connection as the originals.  The shoulders and yoke appear to be separate parts to allow the shoulders to move.

 

Molding the armor is a 3 stage process.  First you build and paint your armor part 3d print and sand to make the surface correct.

Then after you have finished detailing the mold master you have to cover the 3d print in a mold material from the outside.

A hard shell is applied after that.  Remove the original mold master from your prepared mold.  Fill mold with Resin for the surface. then when cured add a layer inside with

resin and fibre mix.  After the part has come out of the mold, paint the inside and the outside.  Wetsand and wax.

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Thanx :)

I'm using ​fishreks base as well,  it was turned into a 3d printable file by DeafJamb on here :)

 

althoug it is not as smo​oth as Yours, how did you do that ??

 

 I'm using a different h​elmet thoug, one I belive is more acurate :)

 

here is a link to it if ​you want to have a go :)https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ak29GeVhzgtpnv8iiEmikdLnuAyy0w

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Thanks for sharing this, ask382.

 

I had a chance to look at the helmet file and it actually appears to be very similar to the in one in fisherk's pepakura file link and is the one I'm currently editing to make printable. I think what I did was open the .PDO file in pepakura viewer and then export the .OBJ of that out. Here's kind of where I'm sitting at right now with modeling touch ups:

 

post-28437-0-77486600-1466430523_thumb.png

 

I've been using a technique to smooth the model in 3ds Max called turbosmooth. It still needs a lot of work and I've only gotten the chest, helmet, back and shoulders bells about mostly done. I'm considering revisiting the models to either make them thicker or add that lip on the edges for easier casting... but we'll see. I may just go ahead and cast a small piece to see how it turns out or if I need to adjust my plan. 

 

 

Thanks for the tips TK bondservnt. I've been researching how to make molds and cast copies and what you suggested is part of my plan. I'm actually following a guy on youtube - Mynock's Den that has some great tips and tutorials. I plan on trying out his method to see if it'll work for me too:

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrOtBpRxS9TBn2Nmv_QEYuA/videos

 

Some of the finer details of molding and casting are beyond me at this early point but that is probably just a lack of experience. I assume once I try my first mold I'll learn a lot from it and be able to make more informed decisions on how I should print the armor.

Edited by Jonnyboy0121
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thanx for the thip :)

 

need to find a copy of 3d s max then :)

 

I'we done the extracting the pep files bit :) but I'we used meshmixer to smoth, and well, it's not that good :) lol :)

I just figgured, it wil need smothing out post print, when glued together :)

 

Btw, you should have a look at the CRL reference info :)

I know the arms needs changing a little, the center part whit the Box it's all smooth in the files, but needs to be different, you wil know when you se the Picture :)

 but i think the rest of the files are prettty solide :)

 

 

http://databank.501st.com/databank/TK_-_First_Order


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