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Let's talk glue


RLH2515

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Ok everyone claims to have the best glue. And a lot of y'all use something different I see zap a gap, plastruct weld, E6000. Someone could go on and on with all the different glue types. I understand to use E6000 for fabric to abs. So this all said what is it y'all prefer for your cover strips and abs to abs glue.

 

 

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E6000.

 

I use it for everything besides gluing handplates to gloves. For that I use CA glue. I can't tell you how many times I had to take apart some armor pieces and reshape/other and reglue again.

 

I recommend E6000. :)

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Ditto.

 

If it's your first build, E6000 is forgiving. It allows you to pull pieces apart and redo if needed (albeit with some Force). CA glues set very fast and tend to spread where applied, leaving areas that need sanding and polish. My only gripe with E6 is the smell. It will disappear, but can take some time.

 

 

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I used CA glue (zap-a-gap) on the insides for reinforcement on the arms, but E6000 on the fronts and backs of leg pieces and arm pieces, then CA for inside rienforcement again. E6000 is tough to clean up on the outside IMO, but is great for sturdiness 

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Ok so "if" some e6000 gets to where I can see it on the out side. What do y'all use to clean it up ?

 

 

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You can use something like a wooden toothpick, going over it til it comes up. It behaves a lot like rubber cement in terms of cleanup. Just go easy so you don't mark up the surface.

 

 

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Edited by DK5IDE
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Ok so "if" some e6000 gets to where I can see it on the out side. What do y'all use to clean it up ?

 

 

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I just rubbed my fingers over the glue.

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E6000 for most parts. Some ABS glues for quick set parts that don't need a lot of alignment.<br><br>

I never use CA glues for armour. I find it doesn't have much give to it, but other builders seem to like it.

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E6000 is no where near caulk texture and hardness, especially in larger clumps and after the 24 hour cure time. If it comes out from under your cover strips it is super difficult to remove if you wait until it cures. Also, if you pull too much out it can basically undo what you've glued because its somewhat like rubber once it's dry

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So E6000 seems to win. I meant the "like caulk" thing meaning of it comes out rub your finger on it like you would if your caulking a tub or shower. But I get it use it sparingly so it don't come out the seems. Need to see some post on amour used. I'm sure someone has done that.

 

 

RLH2515

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E6000 is no where near caulk texture and hardness, especially in larger clumps and after the 24 hour cure time. If it comes out from under your cover strips it is super difficult to remove if you wait until it cures. Also, if you pull too much out it can basically undo what you've glued because its somewhat like rubber once it's dry

I use E6000 on nearly everything armor-related, and I often use enough to so that the entire surface is glued down. I've never had a problem cleaning up any excess that comes out from under the cover strips. I simply use something like a credit card or a flat-blade screwdriver to separate the excess at the cover strip, then roll and/or peel it off with my finger tip. Comes off clean with no residue.

 

I'm especially wary of using CA glue, especially the thin kind like Zap A Gap. It sets quickly, but that in and of itself can be a double-edged sword. Inn addition, if the CA glue runs and goes somewhere it isn't supposed to, you've instantly damaged the finish of your armor. Like I said above, if E6000 goes somewhere it shouldn't, you simply rub it off and it leaves behind no markings.

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  • 7 months later...

Waiting to get my armor until tax return.  Glad someone asked about glue because I was wondering what everyone uses as well.  Used CA glue for decades building r/c airplanes etc and even used some while building my R2 droid.  Have never used E6000 that I can recall but I'll pick up several tubes next time at the store.  Thanks guys.

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E6000 all the way.  E6000 forgives mistakes like they never happened.  CA glue mistakes mean serious prayers are required to avoid needing to buy new parts to replace the old, destroyed parts, or potentially hours of work to re-finish destroyed surfaces.

 

There's no issue cleaning up E6000 on the outside.  Use a cloth to rub, for extra friction.  (make it white so you don't stain your armor, rubbing colored cloth on white plastic)  Comes off just like rubber cement does, as long as you don't wait a week to clean it up.  (I find the next day is best, before it hardens completely)  Use more glue, not less.  It's relatively simple to clean up excess, but having to re-glue because you didn't use enough really sucks.

 

Best of all, 2 years down the road, you can STILL remove E6000, if you find you need to re-size something (or replace something, or sell your armor to someone sized a bit differently).  CA Glue, again, is done once it sets.

 

The ONLY downsides to E6000 are the vapors (use in a well-ventilated area) and the 24 hours cure time, which needs to be clamped (usually with spring clamps and rare earth magnets) for the duration.  So progress is slower.  But you can end up saving time, compared to if you would have made a single semi-serious error with CA glue.

 

As always, treat the surface before gluing.  (sand lightly and then clean with rubbing alcohol for the best bond)

Edited by kman
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  • 2 weeks later...

I swear E6000 solves all the problems in my life
Can't get my helmet trim to sit right? E6000
My purse clip fell off? E6000
Wooden door stop broke in two? E6000
Depression? Sniff E6000

Edited by Alay
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  • 3 weeks later...

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