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Kaar's Journey to the 501st (AP ANH TK Stunt)


Kaar121

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Plastic hand guards.

 

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The elastic strapping is different from what others have done but it feels really secure. I may add some foam on the inside for added comfort. The return edges tend to press into my wrist. It doesn't hurt, but after a four hour troop it may become annoying. 

Edited by Kaar121
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  • 5 weeks later...

Hey everyone. I know that I said I would be posting pictures of the trimmed pieces. I've hit a bit of a snag. I am going back over the pieces and doing some fine sanding by hand. Also after doing some rough fitting, I need to go back through and reduce some of the return edges so that the armor fits more closely to me.

 

In the mean time I have mostly completed the belt. The button covers need to be glued as do the drop boxes. I am deciding whether or not to make them sealed or able to open. I did not do a hot water treatment on the belt to give it a curve. The plastic is pretty flexible, so what I did was make the holes for the three snaps, affix the middle snap and tightened the fabric belt around the ab plate with the plastic part snapped onto the middle. Once the fabric belt was secured by clamps I formed the plastic part to the curve of the ab plate. I then stuck a pencil through the hole in the plastic and marked the spot onto the fabric belt. Now when the plastic belt is snapped onto the fabric belt it forms a perfect curve, as shown below.   

 

Completed belt

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I used Tandy Line 20 snaps. Here only the middle snap is secure.

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Don't forget to mark the orientation of the parts. The holes don't line up when it's upside down.

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Holster front. Attached with Tandy line 20 snaps.

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Backside of holster. I kinda like the snaps over Chicago screws or rivets. This way I can store the E-11 in the holster separate from the belt.

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Drop boxes. A loop of white elastic fastened by four small nuts and bolts.

tpitLMn.jpg

 

Okay, back to work.

Edited by Kaar121
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  • 1 month later...

Wow! Where did the last two months go?

 

Sorry there hasn't been any updates. I do have some work to show but Photobucket seems to be down right now.

 

The belt is finished. I only need to complete the one drop box so that I can store things in it. I am going to put a key holder in my right drop box as these are a popular item, especially room keys.

 

I have been working on the bucket. I need to finish shaping the ears, install the lenses and frown screen, paint, and apply the decals. I have pics to post, once Photobucket gets its act together.

 

I am starting work on the neck seal. Photos to follow when it's done.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Haven't been able to work on the armor so I did a little painting.

 

Here are the button plates. The stencils didn't work as planned so I will go over them by hand later.

 

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. . . and I added a little realism to the E-11. I don't know if this affects the approval but no one is really able to see it.

 

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Edited by Kaar121
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Finally . . . Here are the bucket pictures.

 

DSC_1514_zpszf7vxiwf.jpg

 

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I am most concerned about the openings on the frown. Can they be bigger? Are they fine as is?

Maybe sand a little more from the inside mate

 

Marc

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Neck seal is done. I hope. I made this by hand using Panda Trooper's guide. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8402-howto-create-a-neckseal/

 

I think this one came out pretty good. It is three inches in the front, four inches in the back. The seal follows along my jaw line and is snug, but comfortable. I would suggest adding 1/2 to 1 inch on the neck measurement. So you don't pass out from lack of blood to the brain. 

 

I found the material at JoAnn's. It is the same stuff used for the "Head Liner" in your car. It was about $14.00 US for a yard which is enough to make three neck seals. The fabric is cloth on one side and foam on the other. I went with a zipper instead of Velcro for security and comfort. 

 

Front view . . .

 

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Side view . . .

 

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Back view . . .

 

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Edited by Kaar121
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  • 1 month later...

Being sick sucks. That and it's cold outside, and there is a foot of snow on the ground. . . Still.

 

Well that's enough complaining. On to the build. I was able to join the Ab, Kidney and Posterior plates together, and glue on the button plates.

 

For the main strapping of the three plates I am using some leftover material I had from some homemade snowshoes.

I'm sorry I can't tell you what this stuff is called. I bought it almost eight years ago. But, it is a nylon mesh coated with a rubberized plastic.

This is the same stuff that conveyor belts are made of. Other Troopers have done this same thing but with different materials. I guess whatever

you can find is what you use.

 

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This is the left side strap that will hold the Ab and Kidney plates together. The right side has two snaps.

 

uJgv8pP.jpg

Edited by Kaar121
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So here are the Ab, Kidney and Posterior plates together. This is for basic approval. The rivets and additional snaps are not present. After I complete the armor, work out the kinks and lose some weight I will be reworking the armor to meet Centurion level. For the uh, "crotch strap" I used a piece of black elastic strap. I did this so that there would be some give. Also since it is impossible to snap the strap in place with the armor on, this allows me to leave the strap in place and step through the armor and pull it up.

 

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I'll post some pictures of the armor closed when I finish the chest and back pieces.

Edited by Kaar121
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So taking a page from some of our fellow troopers, I have decided to connect the ammo belt to the ab plate via two snaps. Since my armor doesn't rely on being held closed by the belt. This way the belt will be held in perfect placement and not shift as I move. The snaps are a little off level which causes the belt to tilt slightly. I kinda like the way it looks because it doesn't look perfect. It looks like it is separate from the armor. Also, my button plates.

 

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Here you can see the three snaps that hold the plastic ammo holder to the fabric belt. The two snaps (marked by red arrows) line up with the snaps on the ab plate.

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Here are the corresponding snaps on the ab plate.

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Here I placed tape and the inside to keep the snaps from snagging on the under suit and to minimize any wiggle. I will place something more permanent later.

ERLkKLE.jpg  

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  • 2 months later...
Neck seal is done. I hope. I made this by hand using Panda Trooper's guide. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8402-howto-create-a-neckseal/
 
I think this one came out pretty good. It is three inches in the front, four inches in the back. The seal follows along my jaw line and is snug, but comfortable. I would suggest adding 1/2 to 1 inch on the neck measurement. So you don't pass out from lack of blood to the brain. 
 
I found the material at JoAnn's. It is the same stuff used for the "Head Liner" in your car. It was about $14.00 US for a yard which is enough to make three neck seals. The fabric is cloth on one side and foam on the other. I went with a zipper instead of Velcro for security and comfort. 
 
Front view . . .
 
A4WeLMd.jpg
 
Side view . . .
 
arqGEOo.jpg
 
Back view . . .
 
ngk7lRk.jpg

What was the bottom material ???
Did u get it at JOANNES as well ???


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The bottom is made from scrap Lycra (Spandex) similar to the undersuit. Joann's should have either material.

Are you CENTURION bound ???

Say HI to Gary !!!


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Excellent work on the armor and Neck Seal James. You are well on your way! Maybe I missed it. But do you have a name for your Mini Stormtrooper ? :popcorn:

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He's Gary. From the t.v. show Robot Chicken.

 

It is a Bendai model I got just before I started this whole thing. I thought it would be funny to incorporate it into some of the photos.

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  • 5 weeks later...

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