WhiskeyScroggins ANH Stunt Build - Anovos

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

I can't believe I've been able to make it this far without posting and asking for help.  It is a great testament to the wealth of knowledge found on these boards.  The various build threads and a little searching can get you almost any answer you need.  Granted I'm not close to being finished but I've come a long way from just staring at my big brown box!  At this point everything is cut out and I've been in the trimming & fitting phase with my handy blue painters tape!  Forearms, biceps, and shoulders complete and fitted and set aside to be glued.  

 

My question comes as I get to the same stage with my thighs.  After initial trim I've taped them up and they fit.....barely, but they fit.  My problem comes if I trim the front butt return edge to 10mm on each piece as recommended then that is literally enough to where I'd have to shim the back to get them to fit.  I really don't want to do that as it is a) a lot of work to get it looking right, an I fully intend to lose a few pounds (don't we all) and then I can retrim down the road.  I guess my question is this.  If I don't want to trim and shim, the simple solution is to leave as is and apply the 20mm cover strips resulting in a little butt joint return edge showing on either side.  Is this acceptable (not perfect but acceptable for basic enrollment)?  The only other alternative I could come up with was to cut some wider coverstrips for now.  Neither will look just right, I think second option would be the best of two undesirable choices but I also don't have the right length additional material and so anything else I get won't match and may actually look more odd.  Thoughts?

Edited May 6, 2016 by WhiskeyScroggins

[Airborne Trooper[501st]]

Look at some Centurion Anovos approvals and even look at screenshots from ANH, plenty of armor out there with some ridge showing. Just use E6000  

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

Just shy of 4 years since my original post and I'm finally getting back to it....Picked up right where I left off, parts were all trimmed and the painters tape has been on the armor since my initial fitting 4 years ago!

 

Well last weekend I got back to it and have made good progress.

Good news is I've lost a few lb's so thighs were able to be trimmed down and now everything is fit, retrimmed, and cover strips have been glued...except for shins as my boots were in the basement and I was too lazy to go get them....so that will happen this weekend!  I also got the side and cod rivet on the abdomen/kidney and cod all drilled.

 

Cleaned up the Anovos bucket quite a bit, removing paint from frown and trimming up the eyes.

Got all of my elastic, nylon, snaps ordered.

Half finished replacing the Anovos belt with a Kittle one, just waiting to attach things~

Hoping to make another push this weekend!

 

 

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

I am stuck on something though and could use some help.  I started another thread but realize I should have posted my questions here, so here's a copy of it if anyone has any advice!

 

Two questions regarding the male snaps needed on the abdomen to connect the belt:

 

1) I don't have the popper snaps. I have either Line 20 silver snaps or Line 24 black snaps.  Which is better/acceptable if I ultimately want to go for level 3?

2) Following @Ukswrath bible, the measurement on either side of the abdomen aren't even...One is 1/2 inch up and the other side is 1 inch up...I just want to quadruple check that is accurate as it would seem logical then that the belt would not be level?  (I know a million people have followed the guide, but I'd rather ask a stupid question than drill a bad hole!)

 

I lied....3rd question....Is whatever the correct answer is for question 1 also acceptable for the "Han Snap" on the right side of the ab?

 

Thanks in advance!

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

8 hours ago, WhiskeyScroggins said:

 

 

Two questions regarding the male snaps needed on the abdomen to connect the belt:

 

1) I don't have the popper snaps. I have either Line 20 silver snaps or Line 24 black snaps.  Which is better/acceptable if I ultimately want to go for level 3?

2) Following @Ukswrath bible, the measurement on either side of the abdomen aren't even...One is 1/2 inch up and the other side is 1 inch up...I just want to quadruple check that is accurate as it would seem logical then that the belt would not be level?  (I know a million people have followed the guide, but I'd rather ask a stupid question than drill a bad hole!)

 

I lied....3rd question....Is whatever the correct answer is for question 1 also acceptable for the "Han Snap" on the right side of the ab?

Hi Matt!  By "abdomen to belt" connection do you mean the ones that hold the canvas belt to the ab plate?  If so, these are hidden, so you can use any size you want, but I would go with the larger line 24 type.  Interior strapping (connections that can't be seen) have no bearing on approval at any level.

 

 

As long as the belt sits evenly on both sides across the front you are good to go, but remember (especially since you are thinking about Centurion level () the top of the ABS belt "should sit at or just above the bottom of the ... ab button panels" as seen in the photos below.

 

   

 

For the "Han" snap and the ones that are on the lower tab of the posterior plate you should use the line 24 size (9/16 cap diameter) as opposed to the line 20 (7/16 cap diameter).  1/8 of an inch may not seem like a big difference, but it would be noticeable.  Remember that the bottom of the snap faces out on all 3.

 

             

 

The black line 24 size you have may get you to Basic approval (this would depend on your GML as snaps are not required for L1), but for Expert Infantry and above I would suggest picking up some of the nickel plated type.  You can pick up a set of 10 on Amazon for 6 bucks (link here).  Alternatively, you could sand them down a bit and hit them with some silver spray paint, but a can of that will run you just a bit less than buying the snaps and would not look quite as good

 

If you don't already have one, I would suggest getting in imgur photo sharing account.  It's fee, easy to use, and will allow you to post all the pics you want to (posting up images of any issues you may have will really help when you ask for advice)!  Keep the questions coming, and know that we are here to help! 

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

2 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Hi Matt!  By "abdomen to belt" connection do you mean the ones that hold the canvas belt to the ab plate?  If so, these are hidden, so you can use any size you want, but I would go with the larger line 24 type.  Interior strapping (connections that can't be seen) have no bearing on approval at any level.

 

 

As long as the belt sits evenly on both sides across the front you are good to go, but remember (especially since you are thinking about Centurion level () the top of the ABS belt "should sit at or just above the bottom of the ... ab button panels" as seen in the photos below.

 

   

 

For the "Han" snap and the ones that are on the lower tab of the posterior plate you should use the line 24 size (9/16 cap diameter) as opposed to the line 20 (7/16 cap diameter).  1/8 of an inch may not seem like a big difference, but it would be noticeable.  Remember that the bottom of the snap faces out on all 3.

 

             

 

The black line 24 size you have may get you to Basic approval (this would depend on your GML as snaps are not required for L1), but for Expert Infantry and above I would suggest picking up some of the nickel plated type.  You can pick up a set of 10 on Amazon for 6 bucks (link here).  Alternatively, you could sand them down a bit and hit them with some silver spray paint, but a can of that will run you just a bit less than buying the snaps and would not look quite as good

 

If you don't already have one, I would suggest getting in imgur photo sharing account.  It's fee, easy to use, and will allow you to post all the pics you want to (posting up images of any issues you may have will really help when you ask for advice)!  Keep the questions coming, and know that we are here to help! 

@justjoseph Thank You! That was the conclusion I was starting to get to having combed through a handful more Centurion approval threads, but appreciate the direct confirmation!  I should have enough of the nickel ones from the pieces Anovos sent in their kit to handle the cod/Han nickel colored ones.  I'll use all the black ones for my strapping, etc.  Thanks again for the reply and I'll definitely figure out the imgur piece this weekend as now that I'm "in the thick of it", most likely my questions will be much more specific and pics always help!

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

Ok, going to start posting some pictures as I complete/clean up each part.  Definitely looking for feedback as now is the time to make any corrections!

 

First up...biceps. Trimmed, fitted, glued, sanded.

Nothingtoo  special here to call out. Typical cover strips. In general, I am choosing to leave the return edge whenever possible as I prefer the look of the "thicker" armor.  My understanding is that this is fine (aside from the wrist on the forearm) for all levels of approval.  Please let me know if I'm incorrect! Obviously it will vary as some I've already trimmed back for custom and to reduce "bites".

 

 

 

 

 

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

Forearms - Trimmed, fit, glued, sanded

 

Again, leaving return edge on top portion, completely trimmed on wrist (centurion requirement).

 

 

 

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

Working on thermal detonator while I wait for some glue to dry.

 

Need some opinions here please!

I have two sets of clips.  The Anovos supplied ones, and some I picked up from @Evilboy her on the forum back in 2013!

 

As @ukswrath states in his build guide, the Anovos ones will pass but are a bit short. The other set is the correct length however I notice two things I've seen mentioned in several of the EIB and Centurion approval threads, 1) They edges are curved where the screen used are right angles (yes, Anovos has a very slight curve but is accepted), and 2) the holes aren't close enough to the end.  I thought about trimming them to solve both problems but that doesn't seem like it will work as it will not only shorten them, but also it wouldn't sit right due to the curve.  I believe I should just use the Anovos ones and unless someone convinces me otherwise that's the route I think I'll go?

 

Anovos on top

 

Anovos on right

 

Anovos on left

 

Anovos on left

[ukswrath[Staff]]

The corners where the clips meet the control panel need to be squared, the other end doesn't matter.

 

Your build is coming along nicely btw  

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

Thermal Detonator....Done

 

End caps fit together easy enough, and got the faceplate/control panel centered and glued....Final length right at 7.25 inches.

 

Used some metal snips to square off the corner as @ukswrath mentioned.

 

Next I needed to find the correct screws as the ones Anovos sends aren't accurate.  I had ready however that the ones Anovos uses to attach the ears on their helmet while wrong for the helmet are the right type for the thermal detonator! 

 

Right: Anovos Incorrect "V" shape philliips screws

Center: Anovos screws from TK Helmet - TD accurate pan head slotted screws

Left: Replacement TK helmet accurate angled screws

 

Painted the heads black:

 

Screwed the TD together. Done!

 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Perfect, nice work 

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

Bunch of steps in process but have a question I need opinions on.

For the Anovos kit abs button plate do I trim it to follow the curves/outline of the ab area or trim it down even farther and square it off and just "center" it on the ab.

 

Here's a pic of it currently trimmed and just sitting on the ab for reference.  Please let me know if I should glue it like this or suggest where I should trim further. Thanks!

 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

1 hour ago, WhiskeyScroggins said:

Bunch of steps in process but have a question I need opinions on.

For the Anovos kit abs button plate do I trim it to follow the curves/outline of the ab area or trim it down even farther and square it off and just "center" it on the ab.

 

Here's a pic of it currently trimmed and just sitting on the ab for reference.  Please let me know if I should glue it like this or suggest where I should trim further. Thanks!

 

This is what it should roughly look like when completed. It doesn't have to be perfect

 

[WhiskeyScroggins[501st]]

Spent some time on the Anovos helmet today, and think I got it to a place I'm happy with.

I knew I'd need to update the ear screws, remove some over spray, add in the outer teeth, and paint the inside of the hovi mic tips based on all the reading I'd done. I decided not to mess with the ear position as just too many things could go wrong and my understanding it this doesn't need to be done to meet Centurion.

 

Here's what I did and the final product:

 

First, updated the ear screws.  The ones on the left are the new ones, the ones on the right were what came in the helmet from Anovos (these were repurposed to the TD as mentioned earlier in the thread).

 

Painted them white and good to go:

 

Next up the eyes:

First I trimmed them back (forgot a before picture) to clean them up as Anovos had left a lot of extra in there!

 

Next I made templates of each eye using an index card and tracing from the outside.  I added about 1/4 inch around the trace line and cut the lens from the supplied Anovos one. Using the Sugru method as described by @justjoseph63 in his "how to" thread, I used white sugru to affix the lenses to the helmet.  The sugru seems really strong so I didn't complicate it by adding any screws, etc. as I've seen some others do as this seems like it will hold just fine.

 

 

Since I'd bought the combo black/white pack of Sugru, I used that to attach the frown as well.

 

Next I replaced the Anovos mic tips. I was going to just paint the inside, but I knew I was eventually going to get the speaker mic tips from @ukswrath so just went ahead and did that now.  Super simple.  Quick unscrew of the Anovos tips, widened the mounting hole with 1/4 drill bit, and popped the new ones right in.  5 min tops, and they look great.

 

 

Finally, cleaning up the teeth. This was the part I wasn't looking forward to.  I masked each tooth off with painters tape and used a Qtip and isopropyl alcohol and just rubbed gently until it was gone.  Had a couple areas to touch up and added the two outside edges to the frown (I actually like it better without them but I suppose accurate is accurate) and now I believe the helmet is complete!