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HELMET KIT HAS ARRIVED!


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I have not gone basic approval but if you go over the requirements for each level you could make any modifications that are necessary. When I started my build I was shooting for centurion I just have not done the final few steps that are needed. If you look at his information I think he is centurion qualified but the requirements sometimes change over time. Anyways it does layout a great guide to follow and it was a great help to me, the only problems I had was when I painted my helmet. I ended up having to get stencils from trooper bay in order to get it right. Everything else went well and that problem probably as much my fault as anything. There are other great threads out there, this is just the one the helped me the most with my build. <br><br>

No matter which you choose to follow take your time and I would suggest looking at multiple threads to see which will work best for you. I would also suggest talking to your local members as no thread can substitute for hands on help if you can get it. <br><br>

Good luck!

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Is it like centurion level approved? As he States it may not be to the '1976 standards'.

 

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Highly sure it's centurion approved, pretty sure you just need the correct materials 

 

(Screws, rivets, paints, lens) I believe you're allowed to have decals, aslong as it's ANH hand-painted style. (For that, you should try TK-4510)

 

*Edit* Yep, 

 

  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
  • Ear bars have four bumps only.
    • Not three.
  • Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details.
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
  • Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).

You should be good to go, if you follow those.

 

The rest is usually already detailed on the helmet, or self-explanatory.

 

I also recommend trying to replace the mic tips, with keith mic tips.

Edited by .:StormyTheBadAim:.
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One more thing, this works for ESB right? Last I checked ESB were ANH Stunt with a black frown?

 

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Nope, ESB has a special decal, much sharper, whilst ANH has hand painted details.

 

So, if you're going for ANH, you have to get hand painted style decals, or paint them yourselves.

 

If you going for ESB, you have to get ESB decals.

 

There's minor differences, but noticeable up close.

 

I personally like the look of ANH trooper.

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Nope, ESB has a special decal, much sharper, whilst ANH has hand painted details.

 

So, if you're going for ANH, you have to get hand painted style decals, or paint them yourselves.

 

If you going for ESB, you have to get ESB decals.

 

There's minor differences, but noticeable up close.

 

I personally like the look of ANH trooper.

Scott M does ESB then? Also is the hemet structure any different?

 

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The ear trim trace as you have it might be too aggressive and leave a gap, particularly just before the end of the the round part to the bottom of the ear. You might want to make your first trace more conservative there to create a thicker ear at first. You can always trim and sand thinner but can't add back on. The best ear trim will depend on how you've assembled the helmet and where exactly you want to position the ear on the helmet.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/

Edited by bpoodoo
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The ear trim trace as you have it might be too aggressive and leave a gap, particularly just before the end of the the round part to the bottom of the ear. You might want to make your first trace more conservative there to create a thicker ear at first. You can always trim and sand thinner but can't add back on. The best ear trim will depend on how you've assembled the helmet and where exactly you want to position the ear on the helmet.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/

Thanks will work on ear tomorrow

 

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Sooo yesterday I got my edges and eyes trimmed at my school's tech department and proceeded to sand and file at home.

Pre-Sanding/filing:

8fd70b054befc99f8767887af5d0854d.jpg13adb3ec07300312d75e56c23586c40a.jpg33e987e5760fa322a0534641959cdac6.jpg1fee80997601037cd546b0b0b3268dde.jpg18e3b69474a0f494ce6af0d0e9fffe79.jpg

Post-Sanding/filing:

1c8db5088ed7f19d558d377f59e631f5.jpgb59fd1152cd8755a34d4eb5e97ae9eb8.jpg6b1a6c91c657cb1f3f9ca2a3a7ebca55.jpg30437060419e5a87889fe1b588b5df6c.jpgabe31997a5c566a4d757d1034bbe4fac.jpge941b64ce4ab41e9c79ad9178e0ef89a.jpg5f78c9cb244a44829912a1ab64f3b17f.jpg

I'm personally very happy with end result, what do you guys think so far??

 

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Today I have dremelled the teeth out and have been sanding and filing again. I am aware that I have accidentally cut an extra bit on the right hand side of the helmet, but I do have a plan on how to fix it. Anyway:

Before;

3374902dfb624f155744224a143c6659.jpg

ad6691ae8c81ebfcd40d1fbb45840a23.jpg

After;

61b844dadc628e3b3b071554fcbe5735.jpg

As you can see, not too much but just a little fine tuning.

 

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I have one suggestion on the top piece of the bucket.  Under the traps instead of having it come to a point, try to round it a little just so that the plastic won't tear.  Someone recommended that to me when I was making my bucket and I have not had an issue with it.  Just be sure you do not go too high as you want the ear piece to cover those parts up. A rounded file should take care of it with just a few passes.

Edited by KO22
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I have one suggestion on the top piece of the bucket. Under the traps instead of having it come to a point, try to round it a little just so that the plastic won't tear. Someone recommended that to me when I was making my bucket and I have not had an issue with it. Just be sure you do not go too high as you want the ear piece to cover those parts up. A rounded file should take care of it with just a few passes.

Sorry, where do you mean? (A photo could be helpful) thanks!

 

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KO22 makes a good suggestion.  The point he's referring to is here.

 

---------

 

There's a lot of stress at this location after the ears and u-trim are installed.  Rounding off or squaring off where those two cut lines meet will reduce the chance of the plastic splitting there. Just cut out a small diameter semicircle or notch (2 mm or so) at the point where the cut lines meet.  Don't make it too big, since It's also where the bottom of the U-trim will be, and you don't want it to droop.

 

i.e. like this (I feel like I'm using a TRS-80)

 

-----

Edited by gmrhodes13
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On 5/14/2016 at 6:18 PM, bpoodoo said:

KO22 makes a good suggestion. The point he's referring to is here.

 

----------

 

There's a lot of stress at this location after the ears and u-trim are installed. Rounding off or squaring off where those two cut lines meet will reduce the chance of the plastic splitting there. Just cut out a small diameter semicircle or notch (2 mm or so) at the point where the cut lines meet. Don't make it too big, since It's also where the bottom of the U-trim will be, and you don't want it to droop.

 

i.e. like this (I feel like I'm using a TRS-80)

 

----------

|

\

\

\

\

 

or

 

----------

(

\

\

\

\

Oooooh!!! I see now! Thanks KO22 and bpoodoo

 

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Sooo after a while from the bucket (due to exams and revision) I've managed to trim the bucket just a little more. Especially where was suggested previously.

Before:

4b97216f8de25a1b2b14ccb23e9a12f5.jpg

d401ae109774da74b55aaa07256f9034.jpg

After:

172d95e2b874fc6cfa702a477abf1ead.jpg

d274a8327bb17c5a760176866976a639.jpg

Hopefully I've done alright. Let me know what you think!!

 

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