mitcheg1[501st] Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) Since the release of TFA, I've been bothered by the fact that the kill stripes on my bucket are at more of a right angle, while the TFA bucket's are more oblique. So I decided to make the following modification. I designed and 3D printed a simple block with the kill stripes, then created a mold and cast them in Smooth-Cast 305 Edited March 8, 2016 by mitcheg1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitcheg1[501st] Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) Once I had the parts molded, I used my belt sander to clean-up the sides, including top and bottom. I aligned the kill stripe blocks with the helmet and traced the outline so I knew what would need to be removed. My favorite tool for this kind of work is my dremel with an end mill style bit. Using the dremel, I remove the majority of the material, but don't cut all the way to the line. I use my files to get a clean edge and continuously check to see if the block will fit into the new space. FYI, it should be a very snug fit, so I don't file away too much! Note: I did go back to the belt sander several time to get the fit I wanted without removing too much of the helmet. Edited March 8, 2016 by mitcheg1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitcheg1[501st] Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Once the block fits snuggly, I make sure it aligns with the original curves. This means the back end should be fairly level with the helmet, the front side will sit high and the block should be tilted to be parallell with the original surface that the stripes were in. Once I was happy with the alignment, I use CA glue with kicker to secure the block from the inside of the helmet. Once the glue has cured, it's time to use the mouse sander to restore the shape of the helmet. My sander did the majority of the work, but I did have to switch to hand sanding with 100 grit and a popsicle stick to get a smooth transition. There will be small gaps between the block and the bucket, but there shouldn't be a step. Finally, I use glazing putty (3M acryl-white glazing putty is my favorite) to fill the gaps and sand to smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitcheg1[501st] Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 I will post a finished pic once I've painted my bucket. I've been asked about making the blocks available and am willing to do so. PM me if you're interested. I'm looking at $7.50 shipped in the US, which pretty much covers the shipping cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr1203 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) Great update, Mitch! Loving the extra push for accuracy Edited March 8, 2016 by jr1203 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewoot65 Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Wish I had your talent! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitcheg1[501st] Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Finished my painting (still have some clean-up to do). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ask382 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 hmmm, looking at your "mik tip" and the one I bought from Dday, it seems that my helmet is either to small, or your "mic tip" is smaler then Ddays... mine doesn't fitt as "roomy" as yours, it's rather snug... hmmmm out of curiosety, what are the dimensions of your helmet?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitcheg1[501st] Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 I don't have dimensions for my helmet. If you look at this pic of the FN from Celebration, Which I based my sculpt on, you can see that it shouldn't be a snug fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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