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W.T.F. ANH Stunt build WIP


MoSc0ut

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So I'm going to get this started now. I just placed my order so it'll be a few weeks until I get my BBB. Since I am pretty handy with the sewing machine I plan to sew my own belt and neck seal. Also I found and ordered this on AliExpress:

http://s.aliexpress.com/bE7nQfQb

Mandy Custom Second Skin Tight Suits Lycra Zentai Suit No Hood Black Mock Neck Spandex Unitard Mens Cosplay Full Body Bodysuitspost-21536-14570603189_thumb.jpg

I hope it'll work for the undersuit it was only $20 so I won't be out a ton of money if it's crap.
 

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Here's my material for the neck seal.

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along with the 2" black Velcro I have to still dig out.
 

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Fabric should work for your neck seal. You may find the spanex undersuit too thin, armor tends to rub through material in places.

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Here's the material for the belt. I plan to add some plastic to the inside to help it keep its shape. This is just a scrap, there's a whole sheet stored away left over from a Mando helmet I built for my son.

 

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Fabric should work for your neck seal. You may find the spanex undersuit too thin, armor tends to rub through material in places.

Thanks for the heads up. I have other all black tops and bottoms but they are not one piece and at least one set is a thermal material which I was weary of wearing unless it's cool out. I'm here in Cloud City Garrison country so it's possible it'll come in handy. Here's a little shot from Rose City ComicCon where I worked along side the awesome Star Wars Oregon folks. I'm hoping to be one soon!

 

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  • 1 month later...

It's here! My BBB showed up at last! 4 weeks to the day, Walt and Crew have this down to a science. 

 

*individual results may vary

 

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Jim

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Firsts things first. Inventory.

 

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I think it's all here......

 

The things not included with Walt's armor kits are Boots, undersuit, belt, holster and all the fasteners to hold it together. You'll need to find your split rivets, double cap rivets, brackets or straps, Velcro, webbing, snaps, and elastic elsewhere.

 

Here is who I used for the rivet set and will soon order my latex hand guards from too:

Rivets: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34902-centurion-level-rivet-sets-for-sale/

Hand Guards: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-latex-hand-guards-for-centurion-level-anh/

 

Link to "Supply List": http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/

 

Everything is included for the helmet, even "handpainted" ANH tube stripes, but sorry no trap or cheek decals. The screws that are included will get work for basic approval but you'll need to replace them if you're wanting to shoot for EIB or Centurion.  


Jim

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Now it's time to figure out what goes where. I had to spend some time doing research as the WTF kit is a bit of a mix of armor. From what I understand there is possibly Gino & CFO as well as some pieces he/his team has made as bucks have worn out. Nothing is labeled so this part took me a bit but I finally got it all labeled with some tape and put it back in the box for now.

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Jim

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Next I trimmed the forearms. I'm shooting for Centurion Approval, why not, right? I have acquired all the parts for that anyway as I don't want to have to redo anything when going for it. <fingers crossed>

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Made my first goof already, didn't leave any return edge on the back of the forearms. Luckily that will be an easy fix with a little help from the iron once I get to the assembly and fitting.

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Jim

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The bucket was calling to me. Time to put some work into that! Using TK 1636's and the Trooper Bay videos (along with UKswrath and Russell2D2's

awesome build threads!) I started trimming.

 

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*Fixed the formatting 5/22/16


Jim

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Now for the "fun" part. The ears. Luckily Walt supplies you with two sets! Hopefully I won't need the second one on this and I can put the second set on the pep helmet I am making for my son's Star Wars themed room.

 

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Rough trimming.
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Sanding/fitting

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Keep in mind this is just the test fitting some minor hand sanding and clean up to come and the screws will be counter sunk a bit more. I used the Dave M helmet on Star Wars helmets as a reference when fitting these as those are some pretty good shots of an original screen used ANH Stunt helmet.

 

fixed formatting 5/22/16

Jim

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Thoughts so far?? Don't think I'm going to need that second set! But I may need to move that right ear forward just a bit for a cleaner look with the trimming of the cap. However the Dave M helmet has this same thing going on but on the other side. I think I may keep it and refer to this as the "Jim M" helmet......as that is my name....after all.....

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(Yep, that's my dogs butt in the background!)

 

Jim

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Time for paint. I found a local supplier for Humbrol paints, totally by accident. I was heading there to pick up the Testors equivalent, because online the Humbrol prices were outrageous, and right next to the Testors rack was a HUGE rack of Humbrol paints, yay! Only $3.10 each and they had all the right colors! For those that are interested, PM me and I'll run down and buy some for you and ship it, just PayPal me the $.

 

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I found it easier to hold onto the individual pieces vs trying to maneuver an entire bucket while painting. I started with a lite pencil outline of the areas to be painted. On this cap/back the details are a little soft and I wanted to get it right. To make it a "stay within the lines" thing made it much easier.
I got the base colors down and most of the black edges and vocoder painted, but forgot to talk picture. I also painted all the screws and rivet heads while I had the paint out and dirty brushes.
I'll finish the edges, details and tube stripes tonight and post some more pictures.

I am loving this so far and I can't wait to get back from work and do more!

Jim

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Screws and rivets ready to go, outlines, & some prep with a pencil for the stripes......then Fear the Walking Dead came on and progress stopped! More tonight while the ladies are catching up on their shows.

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Jim

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Walt makes some fantastic armor so you'll be more than happy. Great work on those ears! Wish I got it done right on my first try.

Thanks! It was sand a bit, test, sand a bit, test......1 1/2 hours later.... I'm loving the fact that it isn't perfect or symmetrical. It really feels like I own a set of screen used armor. Now getting it to that point....
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Here is what I was up to until way too late last night.

 

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I really appreciate that Walt includes everything to assemble your ANH helmet including tube stripe decals. I however want the full experience and wanted to paint my own. So I placed the decals between two pieces of blue tape, mind you, it is still on the backing paper and held in place with some tiny strips of painters tape. I then made a dot either side of the stripe, removed the decal, and played connect the dots with my liner brush and some Humbrol French Blue (with a little curve action going on).

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I'd call that a result!

Jim

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Next I finished up my stripes on the cheeks and traps. Free hand of course.

 

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Almost forgot to add the ear pics.

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(I forgot to take pictures as I was going last night, so these were after I got it together today. Those pics below.)

Jim

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Next it was onto the lenses. I decided I wanted to be able to take them out easily if the they get scratched up. So here is what I did. I found these little guys at Lowe's, a big box hardware store kinda like Home Depot but less warehouse like, for those that don't have these near you. I think these cost$.14 each so much cheaper than the hockey helmet screws I almost bought.

 

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Then I made up some little "brackets" out of ABS scrap so the threaded end pokes up through it the thickness of the lens material. I made another bracket that I could slide the top of the lens under, by stacking 7 layers of my scrap ABS together and CA gluing them together. Glued them in their respective places. Then drilled holes in the tabs on the lenses and fitted and screwed them into place.

 

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Lenses done.
Edit: Made the lenses by making a template out of card stock then traced them onto the strip of lens material provided with Walt's kit. Managed to fit 4 so I have some backups.

 

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Jim

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The next part might get me into trouble.

As I mentioned before I have this pep bucket I am working on for my son's Star Wars themed room.

 

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As I am trying save $ on that I made a cast of the Hovi tips that Walt sent me. With some extra silicone casting material I had from my E-11 pipe build. (more to come on that!) Sorry Walt!

 

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I don't think I'll ever end up with a real set to cast and I will not be selling these, please don't ask. Here is how they turned out after paint and screen bits installed. (Walt's tip's on the right)

 

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Here they are installed.

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Jim

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And here is the "Jim M." Helmet all together.

 

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Bonus! My boots from Imperial Boots showed up today too!!

 

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Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

Worked on the arms last night. I had already trimmed up the forearms but had gotten a bit ambitious with the trimming and trimmed most of the return edge off the upper part of the forearm! (Oops) The molds from Walt's differ from other armor makers and what I have learned is I rough trim down to about 3/8", give or take then sand from there. First I use the larger of the two sanding drums from my Dremel then switch it out to the smaller for tighter inside turns.

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Here are a couple rough trimmed.


Jim

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After getting all the pieces sanded down to where I wanted them it was time to tackle those missing rerun edges. I don't have a hobby iron but I do have an old regular iron and an old cotton T Shirt!

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The 100% cotton T shirt is important here as anything synthetic can melt into your armor. I didn't make that mistake but I would suggest using a white shirt or even better white cotton sheet that has a higher thread count as some of the green from this shirt did transfer and also impression from the weave of the cotton. I figured out that if you move the plastic or iron in a small circular motion while doing this you don't get the impression from the fabric weave. (Duh!) A little light sanding with some 1500 grit got rid of both the color and impressions. Polish will brighten this up later. Here are the results:

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That's the arm bits ready to assemble.

 

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Jim

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Now it's thermal detonator time. I was originally going to go pick up 2" grey electrical conduit. It's less than $7 for ten feet. Then I got to thinking, what the heck am I going to do with 9', 2 1/2" of left over conduit. I'm already overflowing with left over _____ <- (insert random construction materials here) from a recent bathroom and downstairs ceiling remodel and repair, from a backed up shower drain, in my garage. So I used the supplied white 2" PVC pipe that came with my kit.

 

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So rather than trying to draw a line 3/4" all the way around I made a series of tick marks at 3/4" around the circumference and played connect the dot.with blue tape and trimmed.

 

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In prepping the white PVC tube I first cut it down to size then when attempting to test fit the ends they are a bit smaller than the ends of the PVC because here it's measured by inside diameter. So I tapered the ends with my sander and they slid over nice and snug. I didn't put them all the way on as I'd never get them off without damage. I then thinned out some Humbol Admiral Gray and gave it a coat.


Jim

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Onto the strapping. Yes the actual width should be 1 1/8" to be completely accurate but finding that width is not possible within a reasonable amount of time and at too much expense for me. I went with the commonly accepted, 1" that is readily available at the local True Value Hardware just down the street for $4 and change, Plus the extra will be my scope rail for the E-11 pipe build that went on hold when my BBB showed up. Using TKbondservant's tutorial along with the input and pics of and original TD later in the thread. I got to work.

 

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I cut the aluminum on my bench bandsaw to 8 1/2" (x2). Marked at 1/2" in and at the 2" mark centered. Using a scrap piece of wood from my remodel (mentioned above) so I didn't drill through my kitchen table, I used a 1/8" drill bit and drilled away. I also cleaned up the aluminum by going lengthwise with first 330 grit then 600 grit sand paper it looks much better when finished. I also rounded the corners and de-burred the edges.

 

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I centered the control panel and attached with CA glue. Panel dimensions are 4 1/2" wide, button side about 1/4" above the "button" and about 3/4" inch below the thing that looks like a Twix bar (I'm still learning what all these bits are referred to!) After lining up the strap with the holes just slightly off center from the panel edge, towards the pipe end. I marked and drilled the first hole. I attached the first bolt then bent the strap around the pipe until the second hole was touching the pipe. Holding it in place I drilled the second hole and attached the second bolt. That's when I remembered to take a picture. *Don't forget to drill a hole in between the two holes where the bolts attach to let air out when you put on the end caps!

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