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CN1142 ANOVOS Build


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          Hey guys, I've been wanting to post pics of my build, but my camera didn't work. Now that it's fixed I can post my progress. I ordered my kit on 4/28/15 and received it Jan. 25. I was so excited to get it that I messed up my signature for the package. I had it sitting around a couple days but then began trimming it. I used the snap and score method and also used some regular big scissors. I just finished trimming today. It's all trimmed rough I'm gonna have to use a dremel to fix some parts. I've already strapped together the chest and back. I'm planning on using almost all the strapping. I'm gonna have to change out the shoulder straps for white ones and the belt, but not right now. I'm also going to make latex hand plates and try to make them as accurate as possible. I'm going to try to make it close to Centurion Standards. I'm gonna dremel it and put together the rivets and snaps on the torso tomorrow. Sorry for the crappy pics.

 

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Hi, sorry for taking to long to respond. As of right now I've used the strapping in the shoulders, chest and whole back. It's pretty strong as of right now, but hopefully it'll hold up for trooping. I'm going to change out the shoulder straps to white elastic because they're more movie accurate. 

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Yesterday I sanded down the armor with a dremel. I also assembled the TD. Already installed all the snaps on the ab plate. Had my dad help me with the 2 snaps for the belt. Also installed the rivet and snaps for the cod and butt piece. Also, are elastics good enough to be installed with the split rivets on the kidney. 

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Edited by CN1142
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Alright Mutter. :)

Do you know if this is the  right gray for the ab buttons?

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yup!

See this for a complete reference: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/23-helmet-ab-button-paint-reference-guide/

 

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are elastics good enough to be installed with the split rivets on the kidney. 

 

 

I would recommend using elastic instead of webbing. It allows for a greater degree of movement. After a few times of wearing, you will be making further adjustments and updates, so don't think you need to get it the first time.

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Eleastic stretches and can tear itself out of pins and rivets unless it's backed up on something. There shouldn't be lot of movement but just don't make the elastic connection too snug.

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Get a mason jar or old baby food jar, put some fine shavings or small pieces of your abs trimmings in it and add some acetone. Let it sit for a few hours or overnight and then mix with a craft stick. Put some painters tape on one side of the hole and then brush the paste on as smoothly as you can (this saves time sanding). Let it dry overnight and smooth and polish. 

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Get a mason jar or old baby food jar, put some fine shavings or small pieces of your abs trimmings in it and add some acetone. Let it sit for a few hours or overnight and then mix with a craft stick. Put some painters tape on one side of the hole and then brush the paste on as smoothly as you can (this saves time sanding). Let it dry overnight and smooth and polish.

Make sure you remove the plastic protection film first.
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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Hey guys, its been a couple of months since i've posted, and its mostly due to being busy with school. I finally made a bit more progress, I filled in the wrongly drilled holes, repainted the arms and done a bit of the arms so far. I wanna try to finish it before the month ends too. Heres some pics:

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Also a couple questions:

1. Is the frown paint job acceptable for Centurion?

2. Also my armor has some mysterious scratches from being in the box, and you can see some in the pic with the holes that were filled in.

Thanks  

Edited by CN1142
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Quick observatoion, you might want to smooth off the edges of your cuts a bit more.  The shins and the shoulder bell you show are both things that flex a bit in use and any roughness will eventually lead to a crack.

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