Mustard Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 AMAZEBALLS JOB! I'm following this now as I'm doing mine!Question: when painting the black boarders, are you freehanding that with a brush? You mentioned using various items as a 'stencil', but not sure if you used one of those Paint Pen things? Or if it was a brush, was it firmer brisels? I've had to re-do the borders several times, so figured it's time to ask what your secret was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikidymac[TK] Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Anybody tried the screws for holding the cover plates on for electrical outlets and switches? I will have to look as some this weekend. They appear to be the correct size, are tapered, have a flat slot and come with white heads from the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunpug[TK] Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Hey Steve! I thought I'd show you my finished helmet following your methods. It's an ESB, but the principles still apply! Thanks again for this thread! \m/ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Anybody tried the screws for holding the cover plates on for electrical outlets and switches? I will have to look as some this weekend. They appear to be the correct size, are tapered, have a flat slot and come with white heads from the factory. I just picked some up today in 1/2" and 1" lengths. The heads are 6.4mm dia. so I think this is pretty darn close since the 3.5mm unicorns are so hard to find,...this should work until the unicorns can be obtained. I will post pictures once I get them changed out. Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 I just picked some up today in 1/2" and 1" lengths. The heads are 6.4mm dia. so I think this is pretty darn close since the 3.5mm unicorns are so hard to find,...this should work until the unicorns can be obtained. I will post pictures once I get them changed out. Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk I have a source for M3.5 but only 30mm long. There's shorter ones on evilBay but I think they will be too short. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Hey Steve! I thought I'd show you my finished helmet following your methods. It's an ESB, but the principles still apply! Thanks again for this thread! \m/ Not sure if it's worthy of Centurion, I think you should bring it by the house for further inspection and possible confiscation if I see fit the need to review it for a few days Excellent work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunpug[TK] Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Not sure if it's worthy of Centurion, I think you should bring it by the house for further inspection and possible confiscation if I see fit the need to review it for a few days Excellent work Oh man, for a second I thought you were telling me I needed to start over. Please stop giving me heart attacks Tony! Lol \m/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeTK[TK] Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 This helmet looks fantastic! Sorry if I missed the answer to this somewhere, but... where did you get the gray foam you used on the interior? I have looked everywhere locally and all I can find is white foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Yes, they do look smaller on the Anovos helmet. They probably use the more common M3 screws instead of the correct sized M3.5 screws. So a question about the screws again, not to hijack this thread for too long Steve sorry. In the following image are three screws, the far left is M4, far right is M3, in the middle and in between the other sizes is a 6/32 brass. Correct me if I'm wrong but it appears to be equivalent to a M3.5m which just so happens to look similar the starwars.com buckets shown above in a previous post and shown below in my helmet. Going by what Paul mentioned earlier this can't be the correct size. Then something dawned on me, M3, M4 or (6)/32 represents the shank width mentioned above, not the head width that's in question. So I dug a little deeper and headed to my local hardware store and guess what I found, 3 of the same size bolts from what appeared to be from the same manufacturer. Though they were all had exact shank and thread pitched screws, the heads slightly deferred from one another, as much as 1-2mm. The million dollar question is who made the original screws and are they still being made by the same manufacturer, to the exact size specifications, every time. If they're not then anything within 1-2mm (screw head OD not shank size) of M3, M3.5 or 6/32 should be considered screen accurate. Any thought and/or should we move this to it's own thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABS80 Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 (edited) I use 6/32 on my helmets and they look the correct size when compared to the movie helmets, so you might be right that 3.5 is the shank and not the head size. Mark (AP) Edited March 13, 2016 by ABS80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Yes, the head is closer to 6mm in diameter Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 I use 6/32 on my helmets and they look the correct size when compared to the movie helmets, so you might be right that 3.5 is the shank and not the head size. Mark (AP) Exactly. The head size is up to the manufacturer and/or its process, it has nothing to do with the shank size. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Exactly. The head size is up to the manufacturer and/or its process, it has nothing to do with the shank size.There are DIN specifications that do specify the head sizes, washer thickness and so on. My M3.5 are DIN963. Which you can look at here: http://www.fullermetric.com/technical/information/din_specifications/specification_din963.aspx M3.5 head size should be 6.5mm if they are DIN compliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 There are DIN specifications that do specify the head sizes, washer thickness and so on. My M3.5 are DIN963. Which you can look at here: http://www.fullermetric.com/technical/information/din_specifications/specification_din963.aspx M3.5 head size should be 6.5mm if they are DIN compliant. Thanks, this helps as the 3.5mm d2 dim.=6.5mm The electrical plate factory painted screws have smaller heads, around 6.2mm and have a more oval head than a true countersink angle.(now what do I do with these?...into the drawer they go) The #6-32 brass slotted screws I picked up are dead on 6.5mm, and sit more flush...just have to paint them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 There are DIN specifications that do specify the head sizes, washer thickness and so on. My M3.5 are DIN963. Which you can look at here: http://www.fullermetric.com/technical/information/din_specifications/specification_din963.aspx M3.5 head size should be 6.5mm if they are DIN compliant. Very good info, thanks for providing this Chris. Assuming Fuller is the manufacturer of the OT TK brass screw, these specs will be very useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) I have a question for you experienced folks:What do you use to remove excess CA?I am following this while rebuilding my helmet and I was able to use the existing brow trim to reach across to fully cover both traps. Some trimming was required but no real stretching, so I just glued it back in place. The first time I used a few small dabs of E6000, but it didn't hold well to the rubber. So the next time I used gel super glue but later noticed a small spot where I didn't clean off the excess. I guess I can buff it out but I wondered if acetone , goof-off, or similar would do the trick without damaging the helmet finish.Thanks in advance for any tips at all!Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Edited March 15, 2016 by BDWC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) I have a question for you experienced folks: What do you use to remove excess CA? I am following this while rebuilding my helmet and I was able to use the existing brow trim to reach across to fully cover both traps. Some trimming was required but no real stretching, so I just glued it back in place. The first time I used a few small dabs of E6000, but it didn't hold well to the rubber. So the next time I used gel super glue but later noticed a small spot where I didn't clean off the excess. I guess I can buff it out but I wondered if acetone , goof-off, or similar would do the trick without damaging the helmet finish. Thanks in advance for any tips at all! Acetone dissolves ABS, so I'd skip that one. I've read goof-off helps, but haven't tried it. Generally just rubbing it with a cloth has worked for me, without needing any chemical assistance. Edited March 15, 2016 by kman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 (edited) Thanks kman I made the mistake of getting industrial strength goof-off and that melted the ABS as well. Luckily, I tried it on a scrap piece first! Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Edited March 16, 2016 by BDWC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 I did a test fit of the M3.5 screws I purchased last night and have now got the image. Testing the fit of the M3.5 screws by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr They look right to me and fit the pre-drilled holes nicely. The shafts are bigger than the supplied screws. I got mine here, they also do the matching brass nuts and washers, you want the metric course nuts (that confused me a bit and I had to google about a bit to work out if I wanted course or fine). Delivery was pretty fast but no idea if that's helpful to anyone out side the UK. http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/metric-brass-countersunk-slotted-head-machine-screws-m3-m4-m6/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Steve! Just wanted to say this helmet turned out GREAT! Will be definitely sharing to the new recruits of the Anovos Era! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonhaddock Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Ok so polishing...does the polish remove the paint? or can I just polish it as is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Ok so polishing...does the polish remove the paint? or can I just polish it as is? Nope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonhaddock Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Nope it doesn't remove the paint or nope i can't polish it as is? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Nope it doesn't remove the paint or nope i can't polish it as is? Sorry, It didn't remove the paint on mine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Nope it doesn't remove the paint or nope i can't polish it as is? I was wondering the exact same thing... Thanks for clarifying this, Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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