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Anovos Helmet Rebuild


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Ok, we all know the things we like and dislike about the new Anovos helmets. I know they were going for replicating a specific helmet they saw in the archives but I still like my ears to have as little gap as possible. This is going to be a challenge because of how much they already removed.  I am also particular about hand painted details so I need to do some transfer stripping. This helmet is paper thin. The ears are, too! Clearly NOT the same thickness of plastic used on the body armor.

First the disassembly:post-12041-0-53518100-1454556103_thumb.jpg   The first thing I noticed was that the ear screws were the kind we are all looking to use on the thermal detonators. They are flat bottom, pan head slotted screws.post-12041-0-52228900-1454556187_thumb.jpg  Because Anovos provided wedge head phillips screw for the TD, I will replace those with the helmet screws and replace the helmet screws with the correct angled screws.post-12041-0-70974700-1454556260_thumb.jpg  After removing the hovis, I am going to swap out the fine mesh screen with the better stuff on the right. post-12041-0-24340400-1454556354_thumb.jpgNice hovi tips, though. Well done. No markings on the side, but well done. Anyway, I am also going to swap out the brow trim. Their brow trim was too loose and cut to mimic that trooper whos brow trim ended within the trapezoid. I like going to the ends. Just my preference. I will use the UK -US52 trim seen on the right.post-12041-0-74912300-1454556514_thumb.jpg It is almost identical but just a tad less shiny and tighter fitting to grab the brow. 

With the helmet apart, I can start stripping the transfers. I only found two things that took them off: alcohol and goof off. The goof off required a little elbow grease, but worked much quicker.post-12041-0-18483700-1454556625_thumb.jpg With the helmet clean, I can start trimming. First I opened up the eyes a bit.  Then started work on cleaning up the tooth openings and making the recessed ones on the right side (as you are looking at the face) a little larger. post-12041-0-93262400-1454556823_thumb.jpg While I had the face exposed, it was a good time to polish it. Note the reflections of the twin bulb worklight.post-12041-0-61570700-1454556925_thumb.jpg and after polishing:post-12041-0-11948000-1454556957_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-90902700-1454556961_thumb.jpg   At this time, I also constructed the lens mounts from the hockey helmet screws.post-12041-0-61298600-1454557058_thumb.jpg After building a stack of scrap ABS around each and some trimming I glued them in place. post-12041-0-73353800-1454557083_thumb.jpg I used the provided lens material to make individual lenses.post-12041-0-08527100-1454557097_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-37448400-1454557180_thumb.jpg I removed the lenses and set them aside. 

I needed to lower the main cap on the face slightly so the ear position would move down as well. I cut my new piece of brow trim and tried several positions on the helmet before settling on one I was happy with.post-12041-0-20339500-1454557291_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-59227400-1454557298_thumb.jpg I am happy with this placement. post-12041-0-53627700-1454557344_thumb.jpgI removed the temporary screws and riveted down the cap at the ears and around the cheek. post-12041-0-80415300-1454557458_thumb.jpg I got to work on the delicate job of re-trimming the ears out. The round portion was already thin so I had to really watch how much I took out. I was not entirely happy with the right ear, but it was a lot better than it was.post-12041-0-01909500-1454557504_thumb.jpg The left one came out a bit better. post-12041-0-57817500-1454557509_thumb.jpg Painting is next!!!

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Taking the bull by the horns! Love how you got to work on this so fast and with excellent results.  The reflective quality after polishing looks amazing. Thanks for showing how to make the helmet look even better with those mods.

Not sure I will be as brave when I get my helmet in hand.

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Thanks, guys! The polishing was just good strong elbow grease. I don't think I would have the confidence to use a rotary buffer of any kind. The plastic on this helmet is very thin and too much power can build heat that might warp or even melt the plastic.

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I too, noticed the helmet seemed just paper thin. Is there a good way to thicken it, so it's a bit more damage resistant?

I was thinking of spraying the inside with a flexible rubber coating (like FlexiDip), or something similar, and then painting it black...dumb idea?

 

This is my first TK, and I'm trying to mod it enough to withstand long walks in the park, and moonlight soirees on the beach.

Edited by DrDataCenter
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Great job looks much much better!  

 

I see that they heavily modified the frown shape extremities to simplify removal of face plate off molds, that area should be square no at angle blending into side tubes. 

 

 

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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As for strengthening the overall helmet itself, I have relied on Plasti-dip with cheesecloth embedded into it then another layer on top. Because this helmet is so thin, I might go with three layers just to give it more strength. Here is an example what two coats looks like.post-12041-0-66368600-1454619456_thumb.jpg

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Could you clarify how you  widened the "teeth openings"? I've been hearing from several that I should do this, but I'm a bit hesitant to start.

Also, where do you find the correct angled screws and the hockey helmet screws if you don't have a hockey helmet?  :lol:

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The screws for the lens mounts I was able to get at a hockey shop. They have bunches of them in their repair shops. If they don't, they can order them. As for the teeth,mi just opened up the bottom portion of the tooth openings. The teeth are still recessed just opened up a bit farther on the bottom.

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