omooney Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Excited to be putting together my first TK! So far I have the pieces cut out (score and snap) and the detenator tube assembled. I'll aslo be working on a Pheonix Props e-11 pipe build Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty33[TK] Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Looking good trooper! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xanthis02 Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 This is not a nitpick if you want the correct screws on your Thermal Detonator they are 6mm slotted pan head screws any hard wear store should have them enjoy your build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dak[TK] Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 slow and steady as you go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omooney Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 This is not a nitpick if you want the correct screws on your Thermal Detonator they are 6mm slotted pan head screws any hard wear store should have them enjoy your build Thanks for the tip! I will replace them! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omooney Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 slow and steady as you goconsidering I'm using E6000 for assembly, slow and steady is the only speed I can go. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Another tip.....the correct screws for your thermal detonator are available on your helmet. Although you will need to paint them black, you can swap out the ear screws for the proper 4-40 brass tapered head machine screws. Also, your gap between the belt clip and the end caps are a bit enthusiastic. They should be right up against the caps. The ear screw is on the left and the replacement is on the right That pic doesn't show it too well but trust me the ones on your helmet are the correct ones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Nice work on the trimming Aaron. Everything looks nice and clean. Ready for the next phase of assembly for sure. Steve beat me to the TD clip comment I was going to make. I have to say that it is exciting and infectious to see so many energized new builds happening at once! Makes me long to get back into the garage and get some strapping assembled on my own project. LoL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omooney Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Another tip.....the correct screws for your thermal detonator are available on your helmet. Although you will need to paint them black, you can swap out the ear screws for the proper 4-40 brass tapered head machine screws. Also, your gap between the belt clip and the end caps are a bit enthusiastic. They should be right up against the caps. P1060237.JPGThe ear screw is on the left and the replacement is on the right That pic doesn't show it too well but trust me the ones on your helmet are the correct ones Awesome! Thanks so much for the help! I'll make sure to move those clips outward when I do the screw swap Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omooney Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Glued my first seam! things are progressing! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omooney Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 I have a question on the Biceps before moving forward with those. After sizing them the offset is pretty significant. My personal preference would be for a closer alignment than this. so my thought was to split the difference between the top and bottom and use a t-shirt covered clothes iron to fold a new return edge, tapering it onto the existing ones. or should I just align the bottom edge and take it off the top? or is there another solution? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty33[TK] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 I would align the bottom, trim the top, the top will be covered by your shoulder bells. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omooney Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 I would align the bottom, trim the top, the top will be covered by your shoulder bells.ok thanks, will do Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xanthis02 Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 If you follow this thread his advice is great and lots of reference pics http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omooney Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 If you follow this thread his advice is great and lots of reference pics http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ Thanks! I've been following since day one you're right its an awesome thread Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omooney Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 (edited) making some progress! since the E6000 takes so long to set up these 50/$1 packs of clothes pins are the only way I have enough clamps to keep things moving along. really psyched to see these pieces starting to come together! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Edited February 7, 2016 by omooney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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