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ANOVOS TK (discussion forum)


ukswrath

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So much for Eric's policy about CRL changes:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31782-fisd-costume-reference-library-change-policy/

 

This ruling about the kidney notches should have been proposed to discussion to the whole detachment rather than judged arbitrary only by three or two people.

 

It was up for discussion in the detachment area. So what you're saying is every change to be made to the CRL should be up to the entire FISD?

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This forum and Tony's build in particular have been indispensable. The level of detail and commitment to screen accuracy is really great. I think for a new armor builder like me it would be helpful to understand the rationale for moving the notch when extending the kidney plate.

 

It seems that pretty much every detail for Centurion approval is rooted in the actual screen armor. Since there doesn't appear to be any shims on screen what is thinking for moving the notch? Maybe someone can post a link to the original debate/discussion that led to this rule. Not try to stir things up, just trying to wrap my head around the rationale since moving the notch doesn't seem logical to me s maybe I'm missing something.

 

Nevertheless this has been a fun project that has added a little escapism from our crazy world. Respect.

 

 

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From an accuracy standpoint and this is what the Centurion level is all about I just don't see how moving the notch forward with the shims makes any sense. If you look at the movie clips and lets assume the armor fits perfectly without shims then the notch is intended to line up with the butt plate and looks intentional.

 

Now if you are a larger gut trooper like me at 6'3 and 195 lbs I need shims to make the Anovos armor at centurion with no gap. So assuming I remove the Anovos molded notch and shim 1-1/2" on each side then recut the notch it is now 1-1/2" farther forward and doesn't line up with the butt plate and is now under my holster. How is this more screen accurate now that the notch is farther forward and out of place.

 

Keep in mind I am new to this and not trying to say anybody especially the DO and staff is wrong  I am just trying to understand the reasoning like many there new troopers seem to be. As a greenhorn with no experience it would seem that you would want the notch to match the butt plate with or without shims.

 

I think we need to keep in mind as Tony has said the CRL is a working evolution and can and does change.  With an open respectful discussion by all if it makes sense this too can change. Stay classy San Diego.

Edited by mikidymac
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Yes and even EIB

Thanks again

I am still learning so not near the point of bickering but just researching

 

I appreciate the clarifications so I can at least qualify to troop with my local garrison, but also to tailor my armor to what makes me happiest....at least that was kind of the point of buying and building the armor

My Reasons:

1. To join 501 to volunteer and make kids/fans happy

2. Once qualified per #1, to give back to the community thru 501 events

3. Have fun and enjoy my kit and character

 

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Ok, I decided to redo my pipe mannequin using 1" pipe instead. Way sturdier. Various joint angles help to pose it better. Went the tripod route for stability. This way I can just sit the pipes in the boots (temporary ones, TK Boots someday). Now to add the stuffing and black undersuit!

 

c776092b594dfcd6b873ad5c20468dbd.jpg

334bb551652d3ccdb6b7dfc4622740e4.jpg

a4ed8a6acb80b9c8ec6ce0b6bf4bd97f.jpg

 

 

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Ok, I decided to redo my pipe mannequin using 1" pipe instead. Way sturdier. Various joint angles help to pose it better. Went the tripod route for stability. This way I can just sit the pipes in the boots (temporary ones, TK Boots someday). Now to add the stuffing and black undersuit!

 

334bb551652d3ccdb6b7dfc4622740e4.jpg

 

"Stick figure" trooper actually looks pretty cool - I would be tempted to leave it like that with just the bucket, gloves and boots! :P

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Do the ear screws work at screen accurate TD clip screws?  I'm replacing the ear screws with V shaped, slotted screws that will be painted white...but thought I read somewhere that the old ear screws could be used on the TD clips.

 

If this is not the case, does anyone have a picture of what works at Home Depot?  I went into the hardware aisle last night...but didn't know where to begin looking for replacement TD clip screws....

 

Also...what have people been using to remove the overspray from the frown?  I heard mineral spirits work, but just wanted to be sure I don't do any unwanted damage to it.

Edited by E_Palpatine
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Id say they are too small and would possibly pull through. I used M4 pan head screws on my TD.

 

I used Humbrol thinners for the frown, tube stripes and traps/tears. Isopropyl alcohol on the vocoder and then more thinners to clean up.

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Now if you are a larger gut trooper like me at 6'3 and 195 lbs I need shims to make the Anovos armor at centurion with no gap. So assuming I remove the Anovos molded notch and shim 1-1/2" on each side then recut the notch it is now 1-1/2" farther forward and doesn't line up with the butt plate and is now under my holster. How is this more screen accurate now that the notch is farther forward and out of place.

 

 

Why couldn't you just shim the Ab plate instead of the Kidney armor?  I think I'll end up having to add about an inch or so on each side, but instead of messing with the Kidney Plate and the notches....if you just extend it from the Ab plate, then the butt plate still lines up and you don't have to re-cut any notches.  

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Why couldn't you just shim the Ab plate instead of the Kidney armor? I think I'll end up having to add about an inch or so on each side, but instead of messing with the Kidney Plate and the notches....if you just extend it from the Ab plate, then the butt plate still lines up and you don't have to re-cut any notches.

Is that allowed? Even for just EIB?

Because I like this idea!

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Do the ear screws work at screen accurate TD clip screws? I'm replacing the ear screws with V shaped, slotted screws that will be painted white...but thought I read somewhere that the old ear screws could be used on the TD clips.

 

If this is not the case, does anyone have a picture of what works at Home Depot? I went into the hardware aisle last night...but didn't know where to begin looking for replacement TD clip screws....

 

Also...what have people been using to remove the overspray from the frown? I heard mineral spirits work, but just wanted to be sure I don't do any unwanted damage to it.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Not screen accurate in size but they will work. They are slightly larger then screen accurate but are much better then the "V" screws they wanted you to use.

Edit: not only that but they are pan head slot screws. When in doubt take a look at the photo reference library.

Hope this helps

Cheers

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Goof off spray takes it off nicely

 

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BUT......do NOT use the industrial strength

 

It will melt the ABS !!!!

Trust me as this happened

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Is that allowed? Even for just EIB?

Because I like this idea!

Seriously, can I extend the ab plate instead ?

Or will my EIB be rejected for it?

 

Of course I am assuming it would not matter for basic acceptance

 

PLEASE can a DO or other please clarify this????

 

Thanks on advance for dealing with all the noob questions

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Hey Jim hold tight. A formal announcement on the subject is in the works and I think most will be pleased, until then everyone's patience is appreciated. 

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Hey Jim hold tight. A formal announcement on the subject is in the works and I think most will be pleased, until then everyone's patience is appreciated.

Thanks so much Tony

That's good news indeed as I am at a crossroads as I am sure are many others new like me.

 

Thank you again for all of your continued unselfish help you give to this group!

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I'm glad a ruling on this is being worked out....

 

Looking over the CRL, it just says that ideally there is no gap for Centurion.  There is no mention that only the kidney plate should be shimmed...just that there needs to be the 22 mm x 22 mm notch on both sides of the bottom.  From everything I've been reading...as long as the visible seam is as centered as possible, shims could be added to both sides. 

 

I'll be waiting to hear to hear the answer.

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I'm glad a ruling on this is being worked out....

 

Looking over the CRL, it just says that ideally there is no gap for Centurion. There is no mention that only the kidney plate should be shimmed...just that there needs to be the 22 mm x 22 mm notch on both sides of the bottom. From everything I've been reading...as long as the visible seam is as centered as possible, shims could be added to both sides.

 

I'll be waiting to hear to hear the answer.

It's just that in the past up to now, that it's been common practice to shim the kidney plate, and not the ab.. Personally, I don't see the difference... But it's up the powers that be to decide.
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Totally understandable.  I'm new to much of the armor building world, but I've been doing a lot of reading and viewing on the forums here, and elsewhere.  

 

I'm not 100% familiar with all of the practices, but figured I would chime in with my ideas when I see an opportunity.  Why make more work doing something that seems fairly simple when you don't have to?  I want to get this done and start trooping already!   :dancing-trooper:

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It's just that in the past up to now, that it's been common practice to shim the kidney plate, and not the ab.. Personally, I don't see the difference... But it's up the powers that be to decide.

Do things your way. If the 'powers that be' don't like it, tough. It's your armour, do as you please. I bet there are still FX wearers in your garrison blissfully trooping away. Have fun, be happy :)

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Do things your way. If the 'powers that be' don't like it, tough. It's your armour, do as you please. I bet there are still FX wearers in your garrison blissfully trooping away. Have fun, be happy :)

 

Paul has a very good point, enjoy yourself in your armor. No one is saying you HAVE to look this way or that. ;)

 

Though EIB &Centurion and their requirements are for those who want to shoot for the best your armor can be, it's not for everyone. If you don't agree with what is required to achieve those levels then that's ok. I've never been to a single troop where you and your peers stand around looking at each others armor, or inquiring "Is that Centurion level armor assembly?". Yes everyone wants to look their best but in all reality NO BODY CARES what level accuracy your armor is built to, especially the fans. All they care about is that you let them be apart of this Star Wars world, even for a brief second.

 

Go out, have fun, bring a smile to others  :D

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IMG_0849_zps2jkqirob.jpg

 

This is mine so far. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this. I've been trying to figure out how to post photos so this was also a test. Finally got a photo on here. 

I'm getting close to finishing this first time build. Waiting on the belt then start on helmet modifications.

How is it looking? I've still got some fitting adjustments but I'm getting close to completion.

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