jacen66 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 I just took it off and slid it over a bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houndog5 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Great thread, thanks for all the advice... lots to accomplish still for me.. just finished my initial cut outs... Not too many hassles. No cracks or tears.A couple of small, wayward slices during scoring, but not bad enough to see. If anything, it was hard to see the score lines on some pieces. I did find the plastic to be extra thick in a few places and it required heavier snips to help cut some pieces. Only had 2 really thin places that my exacto knife slid all the way through without much effort... Both of those were on the kidney belt piece. Other than that, the plastic seems very durable and flexible. Even when scored it took some effort to break the scrap free. in addition to sandpaper, I will be purchasing a dremel and bits for the final clean-up and fitment. From everything I have read, it seems to be a good investment and a huge help if used correctly and patiently. Onward... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Hum, I don't know... Ditch that ugly EFX helmet? Please? Because that pink chair right next to you is more beautiful than it. That there is literally desk slapping funny. I made a co-worker jump. -Eric 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBoz Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 I've seen some people talking about replacing this with brow trim from trooperbay... Why? just curious In my case, I didn't like how short the brow trim on mine was. I plan on replacing it with a piece from Trooperbay that I can cut to length and angle to match the traps. Not necessary, but more aesthetically pleasing to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Slowly getting there! Love to keep working on it tonight but I feel like this and need to get to bed... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk High? Edit, pass the Cheetos 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEllis52421[TK] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Tired, but as the wind has died down, reducing the airflow in my office, this might be an apt description. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Target92[TK] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 So question, the kit only comes with silver split rivets, is that ok for the upper levels of approval for the crotch rivet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEllis52421[TK] Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Wow, from the top, the helmet is really wonky. Makes wearing it feel like it is twisted. Added some pads inside and tweaked the lens to avoid my nose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripper_L[Admin] Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 So question, the kit only comes with silver split rivets, is that ok for the upper levels of approval for the crotch rivet? I think it's ok. But correct me if I'm wrong - shouldn't the rivets be painted in white anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBoz Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 I think it's ok. But correct me if I'm wrong - shouldn't the rivets be painted in white anyway? All except for the crotch rivet. That one stays unpainted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whostaylor[TK] Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Wow, from the top, the helmet is really wonky. Makes wearing it feel like it is twisted. Added some pads inside and tweaked the lens to avoid my nose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk My helmet is just as wonky. Just tried putting my pad inserts in it... I couldn't get it to fit right. Plus.. I feel like I'd be more comfortable with the hardhat style anyway. Can anyone point me in the right direction?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEllis52421[TK] Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Obviously not TKBoots. Guess y will do for now but perhaps I trimmed the calves too small? Seemed to have the required 1/2". TKBoots are taller I think. Can't really slide the calves down any further. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEllis52421[TK] Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Obviously not TKBoots. Guess y will do for now but perhaps I trimmed the calves too small? Seemed to have the required 1/2". TKBoots are taller I think. Can't really slide the calves down any further. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thinking I build the top of the boots up with white duct tape so they slide up under the shins for now. Have a work skit in a meeting on the 18th, so they just need to work for that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gromitsdad[TK] Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Tony asked me to post about using padding as an alternative with this helmet so here you go! For those of you that don't prefer the hard hat liner helmet mount option, something a lot of us do is to mount helmet pads inside. They're great because they velcro on so it's very easy to put on, try it, adjust, repeat, etc. I immediately removed the liner on this new one and put these in and the helmet sits really nicely without being loose or tight. Here is an example. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCLM8Q?keywords=military%20helmet%20pads&qid=1453903328&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2 I actually started a thread about this and those are the pads I was going to order! With your post and pics you've answered my question! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEllis52421[TK] Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 (edited) Is it possible to trim the back plate shoulder pieces? They are really digging into my shoulders because the corners point down. Maybe rounding them off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited February 5, 2016 by Tk52421 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripper_L[Admin] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 @Tk52421:<br> Your shoes should be fine. Screen used books were white painted Chelsea boots and not - like the TKBoots - white leather.<br><br> For your back plate: I think you can trim down the return edge.<br> Just have a look on the gallery to compare with the original suits:<br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/59-the-rs-suit/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/59-the-rs-suit/</a> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whostaylor[TK] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Saw this earlier. It looks like the kidney & ab plate are riveted together on the left side. Is this okay for basic approval? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thumpernicus Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 (edited) the original bracket strapping system will work with the Anovos kit. I've read that the original bracket system can cause worse cracking for certain armors as opposed to others. Is there a tutorial or pics/diagrams for this "original bracket strapping system" ? Also, what makes it better than system X, Y or Z? Thanks! Edited February 6, 2016 by thumpernicus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whostaylor[TK] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Not that I've found. Just trying to make due with the lack of buttons I have left over. Ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Target92[TK] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Saw this earlier. It looks like the kidney & ab plate are riveted together on the left side. Is this okay for basic approval? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The rivets on the left are a requirement for Centurion level as long as they are 10mm from the edge, but I am still waiting to know if silver crotch split rivet is okay. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripper_L[Admin] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 @Target92: silver split rivets are ok, you will have to paint them white as mentioned before. Just have a look at the reference gallery! Is there a tutorial or pics/diagrams for this "original bracket strapping system" ? Also, what makes it better than system X, Y or Z? Thanks!The original strapping is screen accurate and works 100% fine if you do it right. Main difference to other strapping systems: the armor is not that easy disassembled. But it is very stable and easy to build. Since we have pictures from the LFL archives, we even know the exact measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 @Target92: silver split rivets are ok, you will have to paint them white as mentioned before. Just have a look at the reference gallery! The original strapping is screen accurate and works 100% fine if you do it right. Main difference to other strapping systems: the armor is not that easy disassembled. But it is very stable and easy to build. Since we have pictures from the LFL archives, we even know the exact measurements. I dunno man. Snap plates and elastic is more flexible and I think it makes it easier to adjust your TK to look good for your body type. A small minority of approved TKs use the original bracket system. I'm not sure I would recommend the original strapping system for everyone. -Eric 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripper_L[Admin] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Since you do the adjustment only once in a lifetime, I think there's no difference between brackets/elastics and snaps/elastics. But it's obvious that snaps are easier to disassemble than screws are. Maybe snaps/elastics is more flexible, i dunno.<br> I've used sort of snaps/elastics for my old armor and will do the original strapping for the new anovos kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBoz Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 @Target92: silver split rivets are ok, you will have to paint them white as mentioned before. Just have a look at the reference gallery! Although the CRL does not specifically state it, I believe the single crotch rivet should not be painted. Also, I have read that it should be brass, however many of the Centurion applications I have seen have a silver rivet in this position, so it seems to be acceptable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sylverbard[TK] Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Although the CRL does not specifically state it, I believe the single crotch rivet should not be painted. Also, I have read that it should be brass, however many of the Centurion applications I have seen have a silver rivet in this position, so it seems to be acceptable.Brass or nickle is fine. Not painted at crotch. Left side rivets painted white. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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