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ANOVOS TK (discussion forum)


ukswrath

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A big thanks to you ukswrath, I'm checking your build thread for updates multiple times a day! <br><br>

This is my first build. I've got my kit all cut out, and since I'm "ahead" of you (lol) I figure the next step was some cleanup sanding.<br><br>

I'm curious if people have had any issues with the plastic covering while sanding? I did some sanding work on the edges using a dremel and I'm finding that the plastic covering gets all chewed up so you really can't tell how your doing. Is this just me? I'm thinking that covering is gonna have to come off for the sanding process.<br><br>

Also, I'd love some tips on a proper sanding process to use. What grits of sandpaper, etc.<br><br>

Thanks in advance.

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I've had my hands on the ANOVOS Kit now.

 

Overall, quite impressed with it. Very nicely done. Good quality, durable plastic.

 

The two major things that jump out at me (with regard to the build alone) are both belt related.

 

That canvas... For your own sanity, just replace it with a belt available from one of the vendors here. The holster is really quite nice, and the fact that they mounted the screws so high up on the straps is to your benefit. The Stunt holster should be suspended about an inch below the bottom of the canvas, so with the previous holes being up higher on the straps, you can just put the holes near the bottom of a new canvas belt, and use the supplied holster. The removal of the plastic from the canvas is the wild card, as Tony mentioned previously, but to me, it looks like it can possibly be done. I wasn't trying to take apart the one I was looking at, as it doesn't belong to me. Worst case, new canvas, and new plastic belt to go along with it. I'd have mounted the drop boxes differently, but they're sufficient for use and basic approval, without question.

 

In line with the belt, is the TD. The TD was shipped unassembled - yay! - but in my opinion, the clips that come with the kit are far too short for use on a normally sized belt. If you replace the canvas, you'd be smart to replace these as well, or you seriously run the risk of losing your TD.

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A few things I'm worried about w this kit... Color, thickness, durability and longevity....

 

Difference in color and sheen (AM)

506D36FD-2D3F-4614-BF29-9C0A9236B0B8_zps

 

Double thickness...

3B8857CD-A0D2-433A-B92E-09F71E9513E7_zps

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I was on another anovos thread where there is much talk about the frown. My question is :

If we choose to leave the frown and do nothing to it, will this frown issue hinder us from reaching EIB / Centurion (granted that the rest of the armor is up to specs.)?

 

I was given this advice:

"That's a good question for Tony (ukswarth) since as one of the FISD Deployment Officers he approves EI and Centurion awards. I would head over to his build thread and ask him."

 

Am I posting this in the correct thread?

Thanks.

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Sly and myself were talking about the bucket details tonight. The frown for ANH stunt is fine with the exception it needs to be cleaned up for EIB and Centurion, Hero version is whole other topic outside of basic 501st.

 

My bucket in particular has over spray around the teeth that will need to be removed and the eyes will need to be trimmed up, too much return edge material. We also feel the the tube stripes may be too far away from the face, which I'm trying to determine the best course of action for this. 

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Sly and myself were talking about the bucket details tonight. The frown for ANH stunt is fine with the exception it needs to be cleaned up for EIB and Centurion

When you say cleaned up, are you just talking paint, or actually reshaping? Cleaning up the paint doesn't seem like a big deal, but if you are talking reshaping, it almost seems like you would be better off using a different helmet.

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After actually handling the bucket tonight, that's the same stuff I'd say, without question.

 

I'm advising anyone who asks me about the frown to take some mineral spirits to the teeth, find some Testor's 1138 (Gray) and repaint the frown. Not only is there the overspray, but the frown is darker gray than the rest of the details on the bucket and it is more matte in finish than the rest of them as well.

 

As for the tube stripes - perfectly fine for base approval - I'd say the same basic approach would work when pursuing EIB/Centurion - mineral spirits to remove them and new decals or paint them on by hand (with or without stencils depending on individual skill levels) in the right location.

 

Either way... Not too much work at all to get it to the higher levels. :D

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For the belt seeing as how the plastic button covers ARE the rivets I am considering patching up the holes and doing some slight reinforcement for the belt although it only really sags at the point where the drop boxes are hung on which, when it is attached to the ab plate, shouldn't be to bad.

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I'm very new to all this, buuuut! I started my armor yesterday. 90% all cut out. I didn't see any of the above issues. There were a couple parts that were a little melted, but they were well below the trim line.

 

Anyway.. My only concern I have (which may be me misunderstanding) is...

 

After reading through the ANH Stunt armor reference, it seems like this kit would get approved minus the left shin? Is that correct?

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I'm very new to all this, buuuut! I started my armor yesterday. 90% all cut out. I didn't see any of the above issues. There were a couple parts that were a little melted, but they were well below the trim line.

 

Anyway.. My only concern I have (which may be me misunderstanding) is...

 

After reading through the ANH Stunt armor reference, it seems like this kit would get approved minus the left shin? Is that correct?

What's wrong with the left shin?  I haven't seen anyone mention that.

 

The main thing people are concerned about is the belt and holster connection, thus far.  At least, for basic certification in the 501st.  There are a few other things that need to be changed for level 3/Centurion, but even they are not large changes.  The issue with the belt is the connection to the holster.  It's really soft material instead of the usual rigid belt, so they used 4 Chicago screws to connect the holster.  Per the 501st guidelines, you can only have 2 screws connecting, for ANH TK Stunt.  (TK Hero has 4 screws, but a slightly different helmet that would be VERY difficult to change this one into).

 

Again, I'm talking about basic certification.  There are a few other changes needed for level 3, but even that is not too significant.  Make or buy a proper belt (under $40) and you should be all set!  (It may be possible to patch the two extra holes in the belt and only use two, and then even the existing belt (floppy or not) should pass basic cert)

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What's wrong with the left shin?  I haven't seen anyone mention that.

 

The main thing people are concerned about is the belt and holster connection, thus far.  At least, for basic certification in the 501st.  There are a few other things that need to be changed for level 3/Centurion, but even they are not large changes.  The issue with the belt is the connection to the holster.  It's really soft material instead of the usual rigid belt, so they used 4 Chicago screws to connect the holster.  Per the 501st guidelines, you can only have 2 screws connecting, for ANH TK Stunt.  (TK Hero has 4 screws, but a slightly different helmet that would be VERY difficult to change this one into).

 

Again, I'm talking about basic certification.  There are a few other changes needed for level 3, but even that is not too significant.  Make or buy a proper belt (under $40) and you should be all set!  (It may be possible to patch the two extra holes in the belt and only use two, and then even the existing belt (floppy or not) should pass basic cert)

It was just me misunderstanding then. (in the reference pics, the left shin looks like a solid piece in the front instead of 2 sides put together.) 

 

As of now, I'm aiming for basic certification. 

 

I really appreciate the reply! 

 

thank you!  :smiley-sw013:

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I am planning on reinforcing the canvas by placing two ABS strips underneath the straps for the drop boxes. With my experimenting it has shown a marked improvement for the belt in regards to rigidity, furthermore as long as the strips are properly trimmed they will not be visible!

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So now we need someone to step up and supply all us Anovos buyers with ABS belt armor to replace the ones we fubar while trying to disassemble/salvage the Anovos floppy belt onto a new quality canvas belt....

Use the scrap from the armour build to reinforce...

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I received my BBB today i'm going to use the existing belt since i'm going Hero my helmet  looked fine other than the gap between the face and cap on the right side at the top of the ear i bought hero ears and bubble lenses so i plan on modding the helmet

Edited by xanthis02
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I received my BBB today i'm going to use the existing belt since i'm going Hero my helmet  looked fine other than the gap between the face and cap on the right side at the top of the ear i bought hero ears and bubble lenses so i plan on modding the helmet

Hero ears and bubble lenses are easy.  Completely re-sculpting the teeth and frown, however, is a major task.

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A couple of observations. <br><br>

1. You'll need to peel the plastic coating away from the edges when sanding.<br><br>

2. The outer shin pieces, 24 & 27 still have a little return edge at the ankle that needs to be removed even after you trim using the Anovos guide line.

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Looks like I'll be getting a new belt, then. Any belt recommendors for a tall, skinny guy?

 

Also, is there anything wrong with the plastic ammo belt, or can the Anovos plastic belt be easily attached to a different belt?

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TKittell for a new belt. The Anovos plastic belt should be fine, I have no idea how it is to remove it. Wait for Tony (ukswrath) to get to that point in his build to see how to do it!

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