rpglover1983 Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 (edited) --------- The link are the instructions that was just released by Anovos for their product. For someone like myself who doesn't have someone to help me. How close are these instruction for approval in the 501st? Edited March 11, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link removed no longer working 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunpug[TK] Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Interested to see how these compare not only to basic approval builds but also higher level certification builds. \m/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke S Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 (edited) http://www.anovos.com/pages/star-wars-product-instructions The link are the instructions that was just released by Anovos for their product. For someone like myself who doesn't have someone to help me. How close are these instruction for approval in the 501st? Personally? I wouldn't do anything until you see an official FISD thread pop up. Fortunately, I'm in tier 2 which is March shipping. I won't have to wait when I get mine. I wouldn't do a thing until you see what the options and restrictions are. It's easy to make mistakes that are costly. Wait for and listen to the experienced pros. Edited January 25, 2016 by Luke S 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK 2759[501st] Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Not a veteran, only built one kit so far... But my two cents: Following the directions will get you base approval for the 501st no problem. It's missing a bunch of stuff for higher level certs, but that's ok for 90% of troopers out there. The only thing I really don't like is the use of CA glue. It's going to lead to a lot of frustration for first timers, if they misalign something like the shoulder straps and have no easy way to fix it. (I know I did my shoulder straps twice, and my sniper knee at LEAST twice... and the cover strips on the back of the calves, because I put it on the wrong one... E-6000 saved my bacon plenty of times, is what I'm saying. Now, anyone who is here and wants to go that extra step will probably toss out 90% of the velcro, do it all up with snaps, put white elastic straps under the shoulders straps, add in the three rivets on the side of the ab plate, get rubber handguards, and clean up some of the paint on the helmet... But I could see completed builds over a weekend with superglue and the provided parts, which is kind of amazing. Not saying they'll be sized exactly to the person wearing it, but it'll be together and more or less troopable! Thought this was important, so copied and paste from other thread.. Easier to find now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Hi Richard,<br> There are of course some things I would do differently or source different bits and pieces but overall this is pretty straightforward and should be fine for basic 501st approval in the least. I would always suggest looking over many build threads to see how some parts fit together or common mistakes when assembling. Also, if you plan on obtaining EIB or centurion status, build your armor according to their requirements. It makes it easier down the road if you wish to apply. I think if you are looking for just basic approval, these instructions are fine. Good luck and feel free to ask myself or the community for help once you start your build. <br> I would recommend getting rare earth magnets for gluing down cover strips. Those spring clamps recommended are limited to only where they can reach but the magnets can be spaced out to provide even pressure to hold the cover strips in place after gluing <br><br> These are by far the nicest looking instructions I have seen for assembling a kit. Beautifully designed. Hats off to whoever made these. Anovos did well with the kits and providing these nicely designed instructions. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eqdizzle[TK] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Thought this was important, so copied and paste from other thread.. Easier to find now. About the CA glue thing...I built a Clone so I've used a lot of the stuff. You can freeze the parts to get them apart, fwiw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daetrin[Admin] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 I'll be printing & reading tomorrow as tonight I'm on a teeny screen. I would agree CA glue may not be the best call - perhaps they felt it would be easiest to understand by the public vs. E6000? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuskentrooper[TK] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 I'll be printing & reading tomorrow as tonight I'm on a teeny screen. I would agree CA glue may not be the best call - perhaps they felt it would be easiest to understand by the public vs. E6000? This also might be because E6000 is a particular brand. You'll notice they didn't mention "Velcro®" by name (instead it's actually "hook and loop"), and didn't say "Super Glue®" either. Is there a generic term for E6000? If not, then it may be a legal thing. That said, CA still works, just maybe not as well as brand name alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK 2759[501st] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 This also might be because E6000 is a particular brand. You'll notice they didn't mention "Velcro®" by name (instead it's actually "hook and loop"), and didn't say "Super Glue®" either. Is there a generic term for E6000? If not, then it may be a legal thing. That said, CA still works, just maybe not as well as brand name alternatives. I think what people are getting at, is that CA glue is permanent, and can't take pieces apart if one makes a mistake. whereas E6000 can be taken apart if a mistake is made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daetrin[Admin] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 I think what people are getting at, is that CA glue is permanent, and can't take pieces apart if one makes a mistake. whereas E6000 can be taken apart if a mistake is made. Well, that's not always true either. I had two applicants who used E6000 on their thighs and damaged one taking it apart to try to trim it. There is probably a safe way to do it, but it's not always evident. Hmmm...another good idea for a HOWTO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eqdizzle[TK] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 I've always used E6000 any time I'm gluing straps or fabric to hard parts and CA for plastic to plastic. The "zip kicker" is a lifesaver as well..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 I use DevCon epoxy or the ACE Hardware plastic welder. I've tried both CA and E6000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artshot Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Speaking as somebody who took multiple attempts to get a stubborn forearm lined up, E6000 all the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpglover1983 Posted January 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 Thank You for all the great tips. Hopefully will have the armor together within a couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 I'd plan for no less than six weeks, especially if you're (wisely) using E6000. I'd allow for longer if you're planning on changing out the strapping (which I would do) and/or doing some extra work to achieve EIB and Centurion. Better to take it slowly and have it look awesome a few weeks later, than to rush through it and have it looking kind of rough. You've waited this long for the kit(s) to arrive. A few more weeks won't be that bad, and besides, building is fun! Savor it, enjoy it!! With Unquestioned Loyalty - TK-51878 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vecspeed12 Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 from how it looks in someones unboxing video, i'd use e6000. looks and sounds like 2mm plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 I believe it is 1.5mm, based on UKSWRATH's build thread. He said it is very flexible, very resilient plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 This also might be because E6000 is a particular brand. You'll notice they didn't mention "Velcro®" by name (instead it's actually "hook and loop"), and didn't say "Super Glue®" either. Is there a generic term for E6000? If not, then it may be a legal thing. That said, CA still works, just maybe not as well as brand name alternatives. They recommend "Velcro" on their web page. I had wondered why they were pushing Rustolium, the worst paint to use. I guess that would explain it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Order-66[TK] Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I use DevCon epoxy or the ACE Hardware plastic welder. I've tried both CA and E6000. I like the E6000 you have plenty of time before it solidifies, and for the most part can be taken apart. Has anyone use the LOCtite epoxy? Has anyone used it for an Amour build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houndog5 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 as a first time builder, all the advice I have gotten has been for E6000. As much as I'd like to rush through and get it all done, I am also working on something I have waiting my whole life to build so I want it done right. Thanks for the help. Don 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gromitsdad[TK] Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 as a first time builder, all the advice I have gotten has been for E6000. As much as I'd like to rush through and get it all done, I am also working on something I have waiting my whole life to build so I want it done right. Thanks for the help. Don Ditto! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKZombie[TK] Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 I know the desire and want to get it done fast but if it's your first build trust what everyone says you will mistakes. You might on see them till you go to get approval or later if you're interested in going for centurion. If you use anything but e6000 you'll be screwed trying to take pieces apart. <br><br> Don't rush it enjoy the build for what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CureMode[TK] Posted March 15 Report Share Posted March 15 Does anyone have a copy of the Anovos manual - The links here no longer work - Thank You! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted March 15 Report Share Posted March 15 1 hour ago, CureMode said: Does anyone have a copy of the Anovos manual - The links here no longer work - Thank You! try this one https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0346/5761/files/SWTROOPER001-KIT_V1.pdf?18334450603693831912 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 Do make sure you validate everything here though. If I remember some of the suggested placements for things like rivets was off and caused a few troopers some headaches to repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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