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ukswrath

Uswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

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lol no problem Gmo. Well if at any point you plan on applying for the Centurion accuracy level you'll need to replace the plastic had guards with flexible versions, just a FYI. The plastic supplied by Anovos are not accurate anyways so 3/8" or so should be fine, it doesn't have to be accurate.

Right on, how about basic approval? Will the Anovos supplied work?

 

 

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Right on, how about basic approval? Will the Anovos supplied work?

 

 

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Yes, they'll be just fine  :duim:

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I have a question,

 

any possible way someone can enlarge the helmet without altering the general look or the size much ?

i feel i'm gonna have a really hard time keeping it on.

 

nose is a bit squashed on the front and eyes are too close to the glass lenses. i had all these modifications planned and have an old bike helmet that i was going to take the padding from but after i tried it on i can bearly get it in sideways and twist it on

 

did anyone do anything to fix these or is it only me with this problem ?

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I have a question,

 

any possible way someone can enlarge the helmet without altering the general look or the size much ?

i feel i'm gonna have a really hard time keeping it on.

 

nose is a bit squashed on the front and eyes are too close to the glass lenses. i had all these modifications planned and have an old bike helmet that i was going to take the padding from but after i tried it on i can bearly get it in sideways and twist it on

 

did anyone do anything to fix these or is it only me with this problem ?

Good question. The Anovos helmet like many others have their limitations. In regards to the Anovos it's not possible to gain any front to back space from what I've seen. The good news there are armor mfgs like RT-MOD that sell larger helmets, the down side is the shade of white is slightly off from the Anovos. Wish I had better news for you.

 

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I have an XXL long head and the AM 2.0 fits after I squeeze my head in. I can even wear my glasses.

The problem was that the opening was too small so I had to enlarge it. It's still tight to get on, but once on is fairly roomy.

 

 

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As someone who approves a lot of Centurion Level armor...do you prefer ab/kidney plate shims to have a return edge, or to be flat pieces?  How noticeable is it to not add in a return edge on your shims?  

 

I tossed it out on the facebook group last night, but I'm just not 100% up for more hot water bath frustration after the back plate...which looking at the piece now, may need another round of it because it seems like the straps have reverted back to a semi-original shape....

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As someone who approves a lot of Centurion Level armor...do you prefer ab/kidney plate shims to have a return edge, or to be flat pieces?  How noticeable is it to not add in a return edge on your shims?  

 

I tossed it out on the facebook group last night, but I'm just not 100% up for more hot water bath frustration after the back plate...which looking at the piece now, may need another round of it because it seems like the straps have reverted back to a semi-original shape....

 

I'm not Tony, but I'll give you my two cents:  The shims look better without a return edge, and they're WAY easier that way too.  My recommendation would be to shave off the return edges of the ab and kidney plates so they taper down to nothing when they hit the shims, but are still there towards the middle.

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As someone who approves a lot of Centurion Level armor...do you prefer ab/kidney plate shims to have a return edge, or to be flat pieces?  How noticeable is it to not add in a return edge on your shims?  

 

I tossed it out on the facebook group last night, but I'm just not 100% up for more hot water bath frustration after the back plate...which looking at the piece now, may need another round of it because it seems like the straps have reverted back to a semi-original shape....

 

It's not required to have return edge on the kidney or ab so any shims would follow the same logic.

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15c. Hovi tip mod

 

Before diving into the helmet part 2 I was asked to make a tutorial on how to replace the hovi tip screens for better accuracy. Instead of doing that let me just elaborate a bit on how it is done.

 

Note: This is not required for any levels of approval. Also, if after reading this you don't feel like making this mod you can also buy the hovi sets from a few vendors in the sales section. For the rest of you, continue reading.

 

A question about the hovi tips Tony. You mention in the thread that the modification is not required for any level of approval. One of our squad TK's with the Anovos kit told me he was required to change it for Centurion approval. I just want to make sure I'm not misunderstanding something either from him or the thread. Thanks!

 

 

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We are highly suggesting it at the Centurion level. We push the change heavily but we also state "The accuracy of your armor is ultimately up to you". In other words, taking a few minutes to go the extra mile is encouraged  ;)

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Thanks for the input. At this point...return edges may keep the overall feel, but I want it done and am looking for ease...so I may just forgo them at this point. My hope is to take them off someday anyways. <br><br><br>

Was hoping to get them installed this weekend.

Edited by E_Palpatine

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Tony, about the hot water bath for the rear shin closures.....this is how mine look right now...I'm debating between Velcro and bra hooks.  

 

TK Tom mentioned that the hooks give a bit tighter closure on the back and eliminates some of the gap...but it's not perfect.  Kman mentioned that a hot water bath isn't a bad way to go....and I'm not a huge fan of the water bath method.  

 

This is how my closures look in the back right now....more of a V than sitting flat with each other.

 

                               Left Shin                                                                         Right Shin

IMG_6938_zpsznrsyx56.jpg  IMG_6935_zpsdjq6agyh.jpg

 

If I was going to do a water bath on these....do you tape them and clamp them into shape first, then dunk for 45 seconds to 1 minute?  Or do you dunk them first, and then clamp/tape them?  I looked at part 2 of your ATA rebuild, and your section of the hot water bath using the bucket...it looks like you tied them into shape you wanted....dunked them in the bucket, and then cooled them off.

 

I've done some hot water bathing since I initially did my back plate, and have realized that if you can move the plastic in the water or bend it where you want it, keep it there, and heat it up....the plastic will actually respond more noticably; however, if you go too far one way or the other, you'll be re-bathing it to correct the mistake.  Guess I'm just looking for some clarification here if I'm going to try and get these to sit a little bit more flat.

Edited by E_Palpatine
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Hey Jason, hooks or velcro, either will work just fine. I've assembled Anovos shins using both methods.  If you go velcro I suggest you use 3M Industrial, not the Anovos supplied. Done right you won't need to hot water bath your shins. I'm not saying it will resolve all your issues, but it will definitely look cleaner.

 

As for hot water bathing, for the record, I wouldn't if you don't have to. We have quite a few Anovos Centurions that have the same calf issue. It's not a deal breaker. That said, if you still want to give them a dip then your best bet is to use painter's tape. Wrap them to the shape your trying to achieve, then dip and cool. Don't use anything that is rigid to hold them in place as it will distort the plastic.

 

Dip times 35-45 seconds, cool & repeat.

 

Hope this helps       

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Thanks for the info...nice to know that I'm not the only one with those issues.  From what I've noticed...it's worse down by the boots than it is on top, so if anything, maybe I'll give that little bit of an edge a dip.

 

I'm thinking I'll try velcro and see how it holds...if it doesn't do what I'm hoping, it'll be easier to remove and go the bra hook method.  

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Thanks for the info...nice to know that I'm not the only one with those issues. From what I've noticed...it's worse down by the boots than it is on top, so if anything, maybe I'll give that little bit of an edge a dip.

 

I'm thinking I'll try velcro and see how it holds...if it doesn't do what I'm hoping, it'll be easier to remove and go the bra hook method.

Don't know if this would work for you but I came up with this hybrid hook system.

 

e9637cc64ec64dd76298ab11bc905cee.jpg

 

I did just two holes and hooks top and bottom then added a couple of approx. 2" tabs in the middle. The tabs go on the same side as the cover strip and kind of sandwich the other side and then the hooks hold it all together. Also the middle hook is the trickiest to get attached and this eliminates that issue. In your case it would probably help straighten out that seam too. I would instead add a whole strip between the two hooks so you don't get any warping.

 

6aabf76c66d7790a063f1ac2965224f7.jpg

 

bc4eaa634087f0f0b7f0b076de36ec2c.jpg

 

This photo is from my EIB application and this is all the worse they look after moving around bit and I've been trooping this about every weekend since early June.

 

fedd856bc59b4393b19a87d9054c7d9b.jpg

 

Just an idea that I thought might help.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

Edited by MoSc0ut

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Don't know if this would work for you but I came up with this hybrid hook system.

 

I did just two holes and hooks top and bottom then added a couple of approx. 2" tabs in the middle. The tabs go on the same side as the cover strip and kind of sandwich the other side and then the hooks hold it all together. Also the middle hook is the trickiest to get attached and this eliminates that issue. In your case it would probably help straighten out that seam too. I would instead add a whole strip between the two hooks so you don't get any warping.

 

This photo is from my EIB application and this is all the worse they look after moving around bit and I've been trooping this about every weekend since early June.

 

Just an idea that I thought might help.

 

Jim - TK50899

 

Not a bad idea though I would encourage you install the center strap and remove the brass eyelets or paint them white the so it looks some what screen accurate  ;)

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Do you have a link to the Velcro you recommend? All I see is the Velcro branded stuff...I can't find anything for 3M...but I'm finding a lot of links for VELCRO branded industrial strength Velcro.

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Not a bad idea though I would encourage you install the center strap and remove the brass eyelets or paint them white the so it looks some what screen accurate ;)

Thanks for the feedback Tony! They are painted white on the outside. I added the eyelets so I don't rip out the ABS over time. I understand the reason for screen accuracy but those suits got worn a whole lot less than mine will, heck, I've probably worn mine more in the two months I've had it finished!

 

I am debating the center strap, that's why there are two tabs with a gap in the middle. As I haven't had any issues with it popping open in the center, the jury is still out for me on that. I have also been kicking around the idea of a little ABS "skim coat" over the outside of the eyelet to disguise it a little bit it may just flake off with trooping around. I think I'll use some scrap ABS and do a test of that.

 

I'm trying to blend a little of practicality in with screen accuracy. As long as it won't affect my Centurion application I'm going to make some minor adjustments for comfort and reliability. ;)

 

If I'm being totally honest, it took 16 years to finally talk my wife into letting me build a suit and I want it to last as long as possible!!

 

Cheers!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

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Do you have a link to the Velcro you recommend? All I see is the Velcro branded stuff...I can't find anything for 3M...but I'm finding a lot of links for VELCRO branded industrial strength Velcro.

 

Don't mind me I'm on crack. It's not made by 3M 

 

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-White/dp/B0006HWYJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470342956&sr=8-1&keywords=industrial+Velcro+white

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Thanks for the feedback Tony! They are painted white on the outside. I added the eyelets so I don't rip out the ABS over time. I understand the reason for screen accuracy but those suits got worn a whole lot less than mine will, heck, I've probably worn mine more in the two months I've had it finished!

 

I am debating the center strap, that's why there are two tabs with a gap in the middle. As I haven't had any issues with it popping open in the center, the jury is still out for me on that. I have also been kicking around the idea of a little ABS "skim coat" over the outside of the eyelet to disguise it a little bit it may just flake off with trooping around. I think I'll use some scrap ABS and do a test of that.

 

I'm trying to blend a little of practicality in with screen accuracy. As long as it won't affect my Centurion application I'm going to make some minor adjustments for comfort and reliability. ;)

 

If I'm being totally honest, it took 16 years to finally talk my wife into letting me build a suit and I want it to last as long as possible!!

 

Cheers!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

 

 

16 years!?  :icon_eek: Now that's determination 

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16 years!? :icon_eek: Now that's determination

Funny thing is now that I have it done she's been going to about half of the troops with me and helping out with spotting. She then commented, "We should have done this sooner, this is so fun! I thought that all the 'Star Wars people' we're just going to be a bunch of nerds, but they are just normal people who like Star Wars!" Well she was only a little wrong, we are "geeks"!! She does get sick of hearing about Star Wars ALL the time so I try to keep my Star Wars comments and stuff here and out of sight in my Garage/Workshop, but man if I don't want to build an R1 Shoretrooper so bad I can taste it!!!!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

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Funny thing is now that I have it done she's been going to about half of the troops with me and helping out with spotting. She then commented, "We should have done this sooner, this is so fun! I thought that all the 'Star Wars people' we're just going to be a bunch of nerds, but they are just normal people who like Star Wars!" Well she was only a little wrong, we are "geeks"!! She does get sick of hearing about Star Wars ALL the time so I try to keep my Star Wars comments and stuff here and out of sight in my Garage/Workshop, but man if I don't want to build an R1 Shoretrooper so bad I can taste it!!!!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

 

Awesome, thanks for sharing  :duim:

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Testers gloss white

 

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Hi ukswrath , I'm excited to say I have all my pieces trimmed. I'm not sure if I read anywhere in your build thread that you sanded anything. Is this needed? I know some of edges will be hidden under the plastic seam covers. What would you recommend for exacto knife slips as well. I only had two, but they irk me!

Thank you!

 

 

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Edited by Topszn

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