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Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)


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CAP rivets should be used for fastening the cloth belt to the ABS belt. Same goes for the drop boxes to their straps. Also, the rivet covers present on each end of the belt should be practically lining up with the edge, and not centered like you did.

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Edited by The5thHorseman
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In this tutorial I'll be building the ANOVOS TK armor as ANH Stunt. Though the kit appears to have all the necessary components for 501st basic approval I'll be changing a few things in hopes of

1000+ Insane! Not this is some milestone or anything but a big    to all that have either supported, contributed or benefited from this thread.   

If it's alright with Ukswrath, I'm compiling the main information of this build into a searchable .pdf.  I figured that way someone could DL it so they're not tied to the internet when building their

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CAP rivets should be used for fastening the cloth belt to the ABS belt. Same goes for the drop boxes to their straps. Also, the rivet covers present on each end of the belt should be practically lining up with the edge, and not centered like you did.

vlcsna10.jpg

You can almost set your watch by the Accuracy hag!

;)

 

 

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Hey Tony,

 

Out of curiosity, out of the box, were your tube stripes correctly placed by ANOVOS?  And this question is really particular, so I apologize.  Has there been a dimension established for the tube stripes 'not to exceed'?

 

Thanks very much!

 

Yes however, they could stand to be a tad closer in my opinion.

 

The general rule is a #2 pencil width from the face, roughly 7mm. Mine are around 8mm

 

Edit: Btw in case anyone is curious, neither Sly or myself will be dragging out a ruler for this during approvals. If it's in the ball park you're good to go otherwise we'll recommend you correct it.

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Hey Tony,

 

Your belt work is amazing!  Where did you get that leather hole punch?  Does it have interchangeable heads?

Also what do you use as the base when you hammer the punch?  Is that a rubber block of some sort?

 

Thank you  ;)

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQKB72?keywords=leather%20punch&qid=1457989924&ref_=sr_1_35&sr=8-35

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Threw my thigh piece against the wall and broke a clap in the process. Before i continue my build/rage, is there anything against having a gap in the cover strips? There not sitting flush for whatever reason, theres a slight gap just large enough to stick a piece of paper in between

 

Sorry for the delay. They don't have to be perfect, flush is optimum but not the end all, if this helps. 

 

I was about to delete this post when I realized it might be helpful to others that experience this issue:

 

So I decided to take things a bit further in the fit testing.  Now, note that I have yet to receive the body suit - and I feel that might make the difference.  I did my test fit with my jeans (plus belt) on - and without the costume belt.  Once I got the constume belt on and tightened it up, the gap is now down to about 2 inches at most.  To me, that looks acceptable.  

 

Well if Centurion is your goal shims may be in order. I have a 34 in waist and there's now way without starving myself for a week will I fit in this armor gap free. There are plenty of build tutorials illustrating how to add shims to armor.  

Hope this encourages you to strive on. :jc_doublethumbup:  

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Does the rest of the grey on the helmet have to be repainted too now? You know, to match? or is it close enough?

 

No. and the frown doesn't have to be repainted, just painted correctly. The object is to remove the over spray. If you can accomplish this without effecting the rest of the frown then no worries. 

 

Again, as a reminder to everyone, at Centurion we will require the lower section frown to be painted. The area where it extends past the last tooth. We're already seeing applications where it not. Please paint the area so you're not ask you  ;)  :duim:  Many thanks from your friendly DOs.

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Tony, are you by chance saying that Humbrol #5 matches the Anovos grey, for the frown? Mine has little to no overspray, so I'm trying to figure out if I need to strip all the frown and repaint, or just add the missing bits on the end. I was planning to just strip it and repaint, but if I don't need to...

 

If there's no overspray then there's no need to repaint the entire frown however, for Centurion you will need to paint the tip of the frown as discussed above.

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On 3/17/2016 at 5:19 PM, kman said:

Yes, I understand that. It's a question of paint matching more than the requirement.

 

If you're only painting the frown tips the umbrol #5 Dark Admiralty Grey, or Testors #1138 as mentioned is extremely close to the Anovos. Neither Sly or myself will be dragging out a color swatches or ask for paint codes during approvals  ;) 

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Hey All, for you folks shooting for Centurion we highly suggest you update the ear mounting screws and thermal detonator (TD) clip mounting screws. As mentioned in this thread the ear screws should be "V" slot screws not pan head screws and the TD screws should be pan head slot screws not "V" philips.

 

Suggestion,  replace the ear "V" screws then take the left over pan head screws and use them for the TD, they're not exactly screen accurate in size but they are the correct type.

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Hello Tony, Did you have a chance to try the electrical cover plate screws for the ears. Are they accurate? I know you can get them already in white.

 

I have not tried that no. On another thread it was determined that the head size should be roughly 6.5mm across. If this is the measurement or very close I'd say your good to go.

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Hey Tony,

 

I know this takes it way back on your build, and I apologize, but all the different snaps you used (poppers, S snaps, sew in, etc) are they required for Centurion? Or just for screen accuracy?

 

Also, that little black block you use when you hammer your snaps, what is that from? I need something like that..haha.

No however there are specific snaps used on the right front Ab and Posterior that will be required to look a certain way, basically large "S" or line 24 male snap base and those don't even have to be functional. Everything else can be brackets, snaps or even velcro though I cringe when I say velcro and suspension in the same sentence.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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Heyo, I'm back after a little break in my build with an update and a new question. So... way back I was asking about thigh fit and I think I got that solved, mostly by just doing a bit more diligence in checking the fitment, where it fit on my leg, trimming more of the return edge etc. So I went ahead and cut the fronts of both thighs to fit and started assembling the pieces. 

 

Now, I've run into a new problem I'm not 100% on how to fix. Hoping someone here can help. This is a bit hard to explain, but I'll do my best.

 

For the left leg / thigh I've glued the cover strip to the outside half. Now I'm trying to fit the inside half and glue in place. I'm aligning the top of the two pieces and clamping it down. Same for the bottom. When I do get both in place I have a sizable gap near the top of the piece. To me, it looks warped.

 

The reason I think that is... If I try to glue or clamp down the gap (Magnets are strong enough to close the gap, I tried) the ends split apart - either the top or the bottom. Essentially, I can't get the top, bottom and gap all sorted at one time. 

 

So, my question is... what options do I have to fix? I was thinking two things...

1) I have a heat gun. Should I warm it up a bit and 'de-warp' it?

I'm pretty sure this would work, but I'm a little hesitant b/c I'm not sure how hot to get it and, of course I'm a bit afraid of permanently messing it up.

 

2) Glue the top and the bottom (leaving the gap open), letting that dry - then trying to inject some glue in the gap and try to clamp it down?

I'm a bit worried here because I'm afraid that fixing one issue will undue the other etc.

I guess another question I have here is... I'm using E6000 glue as recommended. It holds well, but I don't think it'll hold through the torque I'd have to put on it to close the gap (nor would it dry fast enough). Maybe if I used another ... more permanent, stronger holding glue? If so, super glue?

 

I've posted up some pictures. I'm sure those are worth way more than my ramblings. You can check them out here...

 

http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/Kazdoom/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

Thanks in advance for help or guidance.

 

Kaz

 

You need to clamp it all along the cover strip.  Loosen the top clamp, make sure the bottom edge (most important due to the ridge) is properly aligned and clamp, and clamp all along the way up, finishing at the top. 

 

When you to this, it will probably pull the "short" piece down a little bit from the top, so it won't align precisely.  (It doesn't look like it will be off by inches, more like off by 1/2" or even considerably less) That should end up being covered by the cover strip anyway, though, so it shouldn't matter, and even if not, it's no uncommon to end up taking a little off the top anyway for fitment and comfort, so you can sand it down so it's all nice and even.

Edited by kman
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Hey Tony, first time doing any sort of thing like this. So I may have some dumb questions coming in over time. Haha.

 

I've started the fitting, and just would like some input on fitment.

 

The length looks good, I don't need to fix that, and the top looks fine, but with removing the bottom return edge, I think that'd leave a sizable gap for my wrist, should i shave off towards the bottom?

Bear in mind you need to fit your hand through. Possibly wearing a glove, unless you put it on after. That tends to limit how small you can make the wrist end.

 

The return edge on the wrist end should definitely come off entirely, though. MUCH more comfortable to put on, if nothing else!

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Thanks to Tony and others for their input and work on this build. I will miss all the new input and feedback when the build is complete and there is less attention on this thread. I'm on the belt and while I don't like the flimsy Anovos belt, I have fears about all the damage I would do in pulling off the snap covers. So, I am thinking get the initial belt done and see if I get more courageous when I get to EIB and wish to go Centurion. <br><br>

That said, the Anovos belt: Why is there Velcro under the holster on the inside of the belt? <br><br>

How is the Velcro tab at the end of the belt functional?<br><br>

To me, when I put the belt on, the only Velcro I need is the two wide pieces at either end. The smaller Velcro at the very end of the belt where Tony took the material to patch the holes from the removed Chicago screws doesn't have any Velcro to stick to.<br><br>

Am I missing something on how the belt goes on?

 

My Pleasure. Velcro under the holster? I suspect to give the belt strength in that area. The section at the end? I have no idea to be honest. The belt simply wraps around your waist as you've discovered.

BTW the build has been done for a few weeks, I'm waiting for the 501st approval before posting any more pics, but I monitor the thread anyways.

 

I was wondering the same thing, and went ahead and put some Velcro on the kidney to mate with the belt Velcro. Also, the big sections of Velcro on my belt barely line up when I pull the belt tight and close it up. Like it was made for someone bigger than me. Like, they overlap too far. I thought I was pretty much the right size at 5'9" and 160lbs?

 

The front ab snaps are what hold the belt to the armor, the remainder floats on top around your waist. If your kidney and ab overlap each other on the side you may trim it more if you wish but I would double check all your measurements before doing so.

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Hi! So here is a shot of the velcro on the inside of the belt, under the holster. Some of the Chicago screws go right through the soft velcro.

<snip>

So, why this soft velcro? I was sure the velcro was in shot Tony took when he was upgrading the Anovos belt, but I didn't understand to ask until I started working on mine.

<snip>

It seems weird to me. Anyone else have this?

 

Thanks,

Jeff

Yes, everyone has that. As Tony said, the velcro under the holster is most likely reinforcement to help the belt keep a holster with a heavy blaster in it from tearing through. Some people with especially heavy blasters put a piece of hook-side velcro (the scratchy other half) on the ab plate to help keep the whole thing up.

 

If you're moving everything to a good, stiff belt like one of Rob Kittell's, it's not necessary. (unless maybe you have an obscenely heavy E11)

 

I don't think anyone truly knows why that extra bit of velcro is at the end. It doesn't seem to be needed by anything.

Edited by kman
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I should have asked this long ago, but back on Step 7C  (Thigh pre-assy) I was wondering about how you arrived at trimming the excess off of the back of the left thigh sections the way you did and not dividing the difference evenly?  My measurements are very similar, so I was about to trim my parts and then re-examined your approach:

 

 

 

Good question, it had to do with the shape of my troopers legs and wanting the two sides come together as uniform looking as possible at the top when finished.

 

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My trooper should be 501st approved anytime now so here's the final pics. He's 6'1" @ 175lbs

 

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Note: I'll be changing out the pop rivets for more accurate cap rivets after approvals and post the change. As Germain noted earlier cap rivets are more accurate. At the time of the belt assembly I didn't have any and my trooper was anxious to get in his armor and get through approvals. 

 

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Brackets are shown with the additional ABS support pads. The support pads are not screen accurate and are not required. They we're installed to help prevent chronic stress cracks in the armor due to the wearers height, which was putting a lot of strain on the mounting screw to armor connection.    

 

IMG_7836.jpgIMG_7837.jpgIMG_7838.jpgIMG_7839.jpgIMG_7840.jpg278ab266-cf25-443a-a1f7-551e775a56c8.jpg

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This concludes the build portion of this thread. The following pages are questions, comments, corrections, suggestions, general chat, etc.

Thanks for following and hope this has helped you with your build.

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Just a quick question, the return on the left shoulder bell looks to swoop forward. Is this correct

or should I switch mine?

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

That is correct, swoops forward

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Thanks for always teaching new details to us first time builders!

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

Glad to be of assistance Jim. The FISD has many talented builders, some that could even leave me standing in my tracks. THT

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I'll probably build it before then. But if we happen to meet you can point out my flaws.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

How about this, I'm not into pointing out what you did or didn't do correct. Instead I'll attempt to lead you in the right direction. When you're ready start a build thread, we'll help you get from from start to finish.

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How about this, I'm not into pointing out what you did or didn't do correct. Instead I'll attempt to lead you in the right direction. When you're ready start a build thread, we'll help you get from from start to finish.

Spoken like a true professional! I will be glad for any and all assistance I can get.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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So now that you've built the full kit, what's your review of the Anovos kits compared to others?

 

-shnar

 

Well it's definitely the thinnest material I've worked with so far, though it's not a bad kit. For the introductory price it's definitely worth it. As for the full priced version, I would choose from one of our vetted builders first. The catch here is the bells and whistles that Anovos includes which makes their kit more attractive. Without it it's just another kit. INHO

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  • ukswrath changed the title to Uswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

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