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Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)


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On 2/10/2016 at 1:52 PM, bh0385 said:

What size popper snaps are those?


1) Ab - "S" snaps "poppers" (Used on the following locations: Ab to belt, Ab to Kidney right side, Cod to Posterior, Shoulder to Back plate strapping right/front) 15mm, (bag of 15 is the smallest)- http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



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4g. Ab Cod Rivet Pre-assembly


In this short section I'll be installing the Cod to Posterior strap rivet. Note: The strap will be installed and discussed a bit more when I post the "posterior rivet assembly". 


In the movie armor the strap that connects the Cod to the poster was held in place by a rivet on the cod side and 2 snaps at the posterior side. Though there no screen reference pics to be had here's what it should look like.





Measuring 1" to 1-1/2" in from the point of the cod, or close, mark location.




Using a 1/8" bit drill a hole where marked. Install rivet from the outside in. Note: This rivet does NOT get painted.




Once the strapping is ready to install place it between the armor and the washer shown here.




To be cont...

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I have a question going back to the forearms....I believe it is piece #19, the one that has 2 pre-cut lines...which one did you cut?  Was it the one that took off most of that extra material?  

Even troopers with pretty large arms are generally good with the smaller cut line.

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If it's alright with Ukswrath, I'm compiling the main information of this build into a searchable .pdf.  I figured that way someone could DL it so they're not tied to the internet when building their suit with included FAQ section including many of the side questions asked in this thread.  It also combines some elements from the Anovos guide (pictures and such).  


If you don't want it going out to anyone, that's alright....it'll just be my reference guide when building this as it will definitely help me be more familiar with the building process.


Also, another question for you.....did you remove more return edge on the pieces to make a better fit?  I notice that the return edge on some of your pieces is quite a bit less than the Anovos pre-cut lines.  On the forearms, is it the wrist or elbow side that has no return edge?

Edited by E_Palpatine
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I figured the frown would need to be touched up and extended but I've heard rumblings that the traps would need to be removed and re-applied, along with the rank on the ears. Thank you very much for your reply!


I don't believe there is anything wrong with the rank stripes on the ears.  The Anovos helmets come with one stripe in the correct place for a new recruit. :)

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To clarify the paint situation for the helmets, the frown really should be cleaned up, as Tony said earlier. As for the tube stripes (the blue ones) the question about them is whether they are too far from the face, not too close to the face. The standard is approximately a standard #2 pencil's width away from the cheeks and the ANOVOS helmets have them nearly twice that far away from the cheeks/face.

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If it's alright with Ukswrath, I'm compiling the main information of this build into a searchable .pdf.  I figured that way someone could DL it so they're not tied to the internet when building their suit with included FAQ section including many of the side questions asked in this thread.  It also combines some elements from the Anovos guide (pictures and such).  


If you don't want it going out to anyone, that's alright....it'll just be my reference guide when building this as it will definitely help me be more familiar with the building process.


Also, another question for you.....did you remove more return edge on the pieces to make a better fit?  I notice that the return edge on some of your pieces is quite a bit less than the Anovos pre-cut lines.  On the forearms, is it the wrist or elbow side that has no return edge?


Pretty awesome idea Jason. After I am finished and you've competed the PDF we'll talk.


Wrist side has no return edge, on the elbow leave a little return edge.


Wrist side correct, elbow side if you can leave it without any issues then leave it, but it's not mandatory like the wrist.


Not to derail the thread or anything, but do you think that the helmet will need re-application of decals or paint to be centurion certified?


Jury is still out to lunch but it may be more of a suggestion then mandated, still working on the details


I've heard that the blue stripes might be a little too close to the face and would be recommended that they're a little further away; as well as some paint around the edge of the frown needing to be touched up....but in it's current state it should be Centurion/EIB acceptable.  It will probably depend on your Garrison though and what their standards are.  


As Tim said, it's the opposite


Ok, so what is the fix for the stripes without ruining the finish on the helmet?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Don't make any corrections to the tube stripes yet.

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I'm fitting my forearm pieces and I'm assuming that at the wrist, a larger than 1/2 inch gap is acceptable.  At the point that I have it (around 3/4 or maybe a little more) is were it's comfortable for me to slip my hand in and out with a slight drag. yes I have already removed the return edge. 




A thigh sizing question - is there a reason why Tony angled the trimming on the left rear thigh instead of just trimming a straight line.  It looks like I am going to have to trim the thighs down - my max circumference of my thigh is 20"


Different shape legs sometimes call for different cuts. Trying to stay true to a good line is the key here. Good thing this isn't an exact science  :blink:  ;)

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I'm sorry to clog up this thread but I'm not ready to start a build thread yet and I'd rather not start a thread just for that. As Tony said he was a fan of inner strips, I figured this would be a good place to ask.


So, I'm looking at materials for inner strips and many people are advising to use "for sale" signs from Home Depot. As it turns out, Home Depot in Canada doesn't carry those. As a substitute, I found this on Amazon :




Would that work? It's made out of styrene but there's no mention of thickness...

I just used scrap strips from the initial rough cut. Plenty of material to cut cover strips. They don't have to be quite as thick on the inside. (in fact, I could argue that it's better if they're a little thinner)
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4h. Ab Button plates, Painting and Installation


In this short section I'll be painting and installing the ab button plates



Before painting, cleaned and ready.  Don't forget to remove the protective plastic before your get started. 





The paint. The ab buttons are painted as follows using these same colors or similar.


Humbro #5 Admiral Gray gloss and #14 French Blue gloss, both enamel based


Gray - http://www.humbrol.com/us-en/shop/paints/enamel-paints/5-dark-admiralty-grey-gloss-14ml-enamel-paint.html

French Blue - http://www.humbrol.com/us-en/shop/paints/enamel-paints/14-french-blue-gloss-14ml-enamel-paint.html





Using a small paint brush "CAREFULLY" (I say that due to I can't paint for junk lol) paint the buttons as shown.





Finished painting.





Assemble (glue) to ab.


By this time your ab plate should be trimmed and ready to be mounted. Painting can be done before as I've done of afterwards, it makes no difference.


Apply glue to the ab center box, raised edge. Using magnets, place them on the corners and anywhere else the plate may be raised up.


Ready to assemble




Apply glue




Apply plate




Apply glue




Apply plate. The smaller of the two didn't require magnets to secure it due to the surface was very flat. 




Let dry and finished


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3f. Calf closure Straps and Fasteners (aka bra hooks)


In this section I'll be illustrating how to create the rear calf closure strap & hook assemblies instead of using the Anovos supplied velcro. Either one is excepted at all level of approval but the Straps and hooks are the most accurate.



Here's a reference picture




I'll be using 3/4" white elastic and size 3 bra fasteners. You'll need a sewing machine and or needle and thread.

For the adventurous I have a tutorial on how to make the hooks from scratch, though not considered entirely screen accurate. 


Starting with the elastic cut six 4" sections.





Checking the fit before sewing.




Fold one end over 1" and sew in place.





Now hand sew in the fasteners to the folded side of the elastic.








After sewing




Ready to glue

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8c. Chest strap to shoulder Bell connection 


In this section I'll be illustrating how to assemble the chest elastic strap connection snaps that secure the shoulder bell connecting straps.


Here's a reference picture




After a fitment check I starting by cutting two 8" x 2" sections of white elastic. 




The Snaps I'll be using are Dritz size 10




Locate the elastic center approximately. From one side measure in 3/4" and mark. This will be the center of the female snap.




Center the female snap then sew to elastic.





Shoulder snap completed




to be cont...

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On 2/17/2016 at 12:01 PM, BDWC said:

Is it ok to use decals instead of painting. I thought I saw some vetted vendors that had these. Is the diameter critical or okay as long as the raised portion of the "button" is covered?



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ANH Stunt - 501st basic and EIB decals are ok, for Centurion they must be painted. For accuracy they are painted

Abdomen armor buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor.


On 2/17/2016 at 12:30 PM, _dockingbay94_ said:

Your post where you paint the ab buttons show you've removed the entire return edge on the ab button plates - so they must be entirely flat eh?



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For accuracy there is no return edge as seen here


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9b. Chest strap to Shoulder Bell connection (Bell side)


In this section I'll be illustrating how to install assemble the male snap used to secure the shoulder bell strap to the Chest strap.


Here a reference picture.




I'll be using one of the Anovos supplied 1" black elastic strips from the same location but removing the sew in velcro seen here.




Remove the nylon and velcro sections




Fold over one side, slightly longer than the snap width. Sew in snap





Here the flip side with it connected to the chest strap snap





to be cont...

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I posted this tip somewhere else but someone suggested I post it here also to help out other:-


Just a tip here for anyone trimming the parts to fit, I was using a metal ruler clamped to the pieces but found the ruler wouldn't always conform to the shape of the pieces very well.

The way I found worked better for me was to measure in at the top and bottom where the cover strip would be going, then use one of the cover strips themselves as a ruler as it will bend to the shape of the armor much easier than a steel ruler, clamp that, mark with a pencil, remove the cover strip and, if your confident enough, carefully cut it freehand with a knife.  :)

I did this for my build. Worked great!


One tip: If you're using pencil, you'll get lead all along the relatively rough side of the shim. Looks terrible. But turns out it sands off really easy. :)

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I have a question about the 4d. Ab & Kidney Split Rivet Pre-assembly. In this section you installed rivets in the ab and kidney. You mentioned they need to be painted. What type of paint are we supposed to use? I did not see a specific type of white paint mentioned on the supplies page. Also if we are using the supplied snaps is there a specifc type of snap setting tool we need to get? I know you are using different snaps and a specific snap fitting tool for the snaps you are using.<br><br>

Thank you for putting this thread together. As a first time builder it is very helpful.


Any white paint close to mach is fine. What I did was take a piece of scrap down to a local hardware store and have it color matched then purchased the smallest amount I could buy. I use it to touch up everything.

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Final leg assembly coming, until then here's the final Thermal Detonator assembly


10c. Thermal Detonator Assembly Final 


Installing components. Center and install face plate (control panel). Install end caps.


Add glue, attach the plate and caps, let dry





Clips. Reference pic, screen used TD. 




The Anovos supplied clips aren't very accurate but if used should be accepted at any level of application. 




I personally don't have a problem with how the Anovos clips are shaped, I actually prefer the shape over the canon style as they don't scratch my armor as bad. A matter of preference.


The problem I do have is the clip length (amount of metal) used to secure the TD to the belt. Screen Accurate clips are approximately 69mm or 2-3/4" as seen here





Anovos is approximately 60mm or 2-1/4". This make for a lot less material hanging onto your belt, not to mention it's a 1/2" from accurate.





In this situation I chose to make my own clips. 




Screen used clips are approximately 29mm or 1-18" in width. Mine will be 1-1/4" due to 1-1/18" x 1/16" thick is difficult to find here in the US for some stupid reason. The good news is the length needed is almost exactly that of canon. 


If you want to make your Anovos more screen accurate simply straighten out the center bend then taper the ends like so




Installation: Whether you use the Anovos supplied clips, make your own or buy new the following mounting instructions will technically be the same  


Place the clips so the curved end is nestled against the face plate (lower edge) and the end cap.




Mark the hole to be drilled




Mounting screws. The Anovos mounting screws provided though approveable at all levels, are not accurate. They should be pan head and slotted, not "V" shape, Philips. Those shooting for L3 I strongly encourage you to replace them with something similar to canon. I'll be using #6 x 3/8". These are slightly larger then what's seen used on the canon TD but are the correct shape.


Note: Depending on which screws you use will determine what bit to use when drilling the mounting screws. A 5/32 bit can be used for the screws I'm using or Anovos supplied. 


Note holes and drill accordingly




Install screws








And finally, the screws are to be painted black for L3. Mine are painted using semi gloss




The TD is finished and ready to install

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3g. Sniper knee, rear cover strip and calf closure elastic system installation


In this section I'll be illustrating how to install the sniper knee, rear cover strip and the elastic/hook rear calf closure.


Starting with the sniper knee plate. As mentioned and illustrated in the Pre-Assembly section, optimum placement of the sniper knee is such that the rear trailing edge follows the same contour as the shin upper return edge as seen here.


Note: It doesn't have to be perfect, just close.





Test fit prior to gluing




To make things a bit easier during assembly while sniper knee was temporarily in position, using a pencil I ever so slightly marked front cover strip just below the sniper plate. 




The following images will be the suggested gluing areas.




I found it easier when using E6000 (or CA) glue to glue the front first, let dry, then glue the sides. 


Front. Apply the glue, clamp and let dry. Make note of the sniper knee lower edge mark.




I know same ole picture, but you're getting the point right?  ;) 




After glue dries do the left and right sides.

Note: I prefer to leave the center clamp on during this next step as an added security due to the sniper knee will be getting twisted quite  bit.










I'll post some side shots later today, somehow I forgot to upload these to photobucket.



Rear cover strips

Measure and cut strips to length using the following and remaining unused strips.







One half of the cover strip will be glued to outer calf side only. The other half of the cover strip will be used to conceal the elastic & hook we'll be installing and close the gap between the two sides.  


Test fit the cover strip. Add glue to the outer calf side.


Note the object separating the two sides. I've done this to help prevent anything getting in way during this process. If you choose to use this method be sure the outer calf (you'll be gluing to) does NOT bend out of shape in the process.    


Adding glue



Adding and securing the strip. Let dry




Elastic & Hook assembly


At this point is where we will be drilling the holes for the elastic & hook assemblies.


Note: If you wish not to use velcro instead (accepted at all levels of approval btw) then measure, cut and install the velcro on the back side of the cover strip and on the opposite (inner) calf. Another note, It's rumored the Anovos supplied cover strip is wider then needed. I suggest you cut the width the same as the remaining side of cover strip (about 12mm). This should give the area a nice clean look. 


Before you get started with either, if your rear calf halves do not sit flat against one another, due to fitment, trimming or assembly, this may effect how the two halves come together and look. If you have excessive gap or shape the "hot water bath" is a excellent solution. For the record this is not a requirement. What is a requirement is that the rear calves be closed. How you choose to do that is up to you. For those that are interested my ATA rebuild thread (the "go to" link is in my signature below) has a section dedicated to calf hot water bath. 


Drilling the holes for the hooks. 


Note: From all my research I have yet to find any specifications regarding where the holes are to be placed other than there's three, one a the top, middle or lower middle, and bottom. As seen in this picture there are two sets of holes, possibly for different size legs, I'm not sure. We'll be making one set, closest to the inner cover edge. 




Measure and mark the location for the first hole 20-25mm from the upper return edge, and approximately (5mm) from the inner cover edge




The lower hole will also be around the same measurements, 20-25mm from the lower calf edge, (5mm) from the inner edge. 


Split the distance between the two for the center hole. 


Drill the holes using a 1/8" drill bit. Later if you find it difficult connecting the hook you may want to open it up a bit with the next size up bit. Just be careful, if you take too much off you run the risk of weakening the area. We know there's inconsistency with the armor thickness which directly effects it's strength.






Installing the elastic & hook assembly


The goal here is not only to close the rear calf half but also make sure the connecting hooks are hidden (as much as possible). This doesn't have to be perfect.


Test fit. Install the hook in the hole and secure it with your hand. Get an idea of what you're looking at and how it works before gluing the elastic down. Hold the elastic firmly while trying to separate the shin halves. The two sides should stay relatively close together without the hook showing from outside the cover strip. Again, this doesn't have to be perfect, close. 





After the initial check I'd determined I will need to place the end of the elastic (hook side) 1/4" away from the inner edge. Your's may differ depending on the side of your calf, how much tension there is between the two sides, etc. Mark the location of the elastic with a pencil (draw an outline). This helps greatly during assembly




The same measurements cab be used with the remaining holes unless you have an area requiring more or less tension. In that case adjust accordingly and mark that strap location specifically. 


Once your ready to install, either use spare/scrap material or other to evenly distribute the clamping force against the elastic and armor. 


Apply glue to 2"+ section of the elastic or armor, it doesn't matter. Clamp using clamps or magnets.





Let dry


Final shin images coming ... 

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so far on mine i have only run into the armor being really thin on the kidney i got about 10 parts to trim and rough trim is done at that point i do think the leg problem was mixed on mine as well but unsure and i havent had to many wonky looks from the pull maybe 1 so far but nothing that is important on looks


I believe the kidney is the only area that has the issue, and not everyone has this issue.

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Every one I've seen has been round, this thing is frustrating the hell out of me


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Here's a reference photo from the wrist side. The oval shape get worse as it nears the elbo. If you don't like the shape you can always give it a hot water bath but note, this is the asymmetrical design of the right forearm.



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Hi, Tony:


I have a quick question about the belt work, which I'm finally undertaking myself.  The difference, however, is I'm swapping the belt itself for one of Tom Kittell's belts.  I hope it's ok if I ask you a quick question. (This sort of thing would not come up in EIB/Centurion applications or non-Anovos build threads!)


My question is quick and easy, regarding the leather mounting tabs for the holster:



The upper screws definitely need to be removed, clearly.  My question is, do the longer leather tabs absolutely need to be cut?  I know you did it for 100% accuracy (which I applaud), but since the longer tabs (where the upper screw would go) are completely hidden behind the belt, do you think it would be a problem to leave them long, and of course only attach them at the bottom?  That would give me more flexibility in the future, should I decide to move the holster to another costume.  Or if I change my mind, of course, a quick snip and they're just like yours.


Oh, and while I'm at it: Is there any point to the loop-side velcro on the Anovos belt, that the holster goes through?  I'm thinking it's mostly there for desperately needed added stiffness for the holster weight, and I won't need it with the TKittell belt, but if there's some reason I SHOULD keep it, now would be good to know. ;)


And finally... is the plastic belt portion attached to the main belt with simple pop rivets, or something else?  Is there any advantage to using a different, removable method of attachment?  (Chicago screws come to mind, as I stare at two that are available for use!)


Hey Kalani good questions, here ya go


1) Holster straps - Allowing the straps to remain long is perfectly fine, though I would suggest cutting it off just below the upper hole. 

2) Velcro, I pretty certain they did that to give the area some strength and support so it wouldn't sag too bad with the blaster holstered.

3) Canvas bet to ammo belt - Pop rivets or similar


Hope this helps

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Continuing on...


9c. Shoulder Bell strap installation cont...


We left off making the elastic that attaches the bell to the shoulder elastic. In this segment we'll attach that same strap and install the lower bell elastic strap also.


In the shoulder strap assembly segment we placed the female snaps approximately 3/4" from the inside (neck side) of the 2" shoulder to back elastic. This leaves 1-1/4" gap between the same snap and the outer (shoulder) side of the elastic. 


The goal is set up the bells for a nice tight fit against your shoulders and the chest plate cover strip. Probably the #1 recommended correction at the Centurion level.






Using magnets or other position the bell to shoulder strap so that the male snap center is approximately 1" from the bell. This will create a negative (overlapping) of the two materials of 1/4" factoring in the elastic stretch. Afterwards mark the inside of the armor at the opposite end of the elastic.




Prepare for assembly and apply glue to armor.




Similar when installing the calf elastic use a piece of scrap or other to evenly distribute the pressure of the gluing surface. Apply clamping tools. Let dry. 







Installing lower elastic. In this section well be installing the lower bell elastic used to secure the lower bell to your arm, and later on I'll be illustrating how the same strap will be used to support the bicep. I'll be using the Anovos supplied elastic for this are which is roughly 3/4" wide. 


Reference picture




Starting with the Anovos supplied elastic, remove the sew in velcro. 





The elastic will be place just above the lower return edge. Center the elastic, mark the location, apply glue to the armor and secure for drying.

Note: You can choose use the entire elastic strap length or trim some off. I may have take off an 1" or so.






Finished with the bells, ready for final fitment check

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Hello Tony, i'm looking forward to the 22mm by 22mm cut out for the kidney plate.  =)    I know you're going to come up with an awesome solution!


Hey bud, according to the accuracy crew the size and shape of the Anovos 22mm notch area is correct. At this time, besides minor return edge trimming there's no plans to change it





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  • ukswrath changed the title to Uswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

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