Jump to content

Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)


Recommended Posts

Assembly cont...


1d. Forearms (rear)


Once dry, remove clamps, magnets and tape (if any)


Left arm









Prepare to assemble. Measure and cut cover strip, apply glue, cover strip, clamps, magnets and tape if needed.


Unless there is something specific to discuss the assembly instruction will be pretty straight forward.










After drying. Remove clamps and magnets









As mentioned before for Centurion there can be no lower return edge. Using a knife or other remove all return edge material. Here's a basic pic of what it will look like, I'll post a few more detailed pics later.



  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assembly cont...


2d. Biceps

2e. Bicep hooks


Cover strip info




As with the forearms let's start with the front. 


Left bicep. Measure and cut cover strips. Apply glue, then clamps and magnets.





Right bicep. This will be little different. The front butt connection on the right bicep should be the only section regarding the biceps that the inner cover is 1/2" taller then the outer. Being it is the only section with this issue I'll be aligning the lower edge (elbow side) then afterwards trimming the upper corner (arm pit sit side). Other then this it's pretty straight forward.





After glue dries remove all clamping tools and inspect.












Assemble the rear.










After drying











As mentioned earlier I would be trimming down the right front inner cover to match the rear. He it is after the trimming.


Right front bicep




2e. Making and installing the hooks for the lower shoulder bell strap.

NOTE: These are NOT required at any levels of approval.


Start by cutting two strips 5/8" (15mm) wide x 2-1/2" (65mm) long from cover strip material or similar. Round corners at one end.

Note: These dimensions do no't have to be exact.





Locate and mark 1/2" from rounded end. Place two block of wood on each side of the marked location, this will concentrate the heat to a specific area. While wearing heat resistant gloves or similar, use a heat gun and heat the plastic material between the two wood blocks. 





Once heated (30 seconds or so) remove material and gently bend the softened area 45 to 90 degree. It doesn't have to be exact. The goal is to provide a hook the material can hang on to.





Place hook in desired position. Note the location of hook on the inside of the bicep.





Apply CA glue to the hook or the bicep and clamp. (I used CA glue for a quicker cure time)








Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Tony, great thread! Question, I'm a fan of inside coversrips. Are you gonna show them that also? I don't have that kit but am following to help recruits in my garrison. I believe they only give enough for the outside, right?


Hey Randy great question, no I won't sorry. Though I'm a fan also there's not enough cover strip material supplied by ANOVOS to do this. I'm trying to keep this build as accurate as possible also. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assembly cont....


3d. Shin assembly (front)

NOTE. As mentioned in the "Shin Pre assembly" section your shins may be mis-marked by Anovos. When finished your shins should resemble the following illustrated photo. Double check before assembly. 




Cover strip info (front)




As many of you may already know the front cover strip is fixed and secures both halves of the armor. The rear however is fixed to only one side, specifically the outer. This is designed so you can slip your foot in and out of the armor and yet still be able to close the armor. In this particular section we'll only be discussing the assembly of the front, the rears we'll discuss a bit later.


Starting with the either shin, measure and cut the cover strip and chamfer the corners. Note: The cover strip will run the full length of the shin. Apply glue, install strip and clamp. 






Prepare your work area for assembly






Let dry.


After clamp removal



After clamp removal




Both left and right rear. As you can see one calf half overlaps and the other is separated. I may decide to give them a hot water bath to even them out, not sure just yet. If I do I'll discuss it later.


  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Tony, how do you remove the excess E6000 glue? Just rubbing it off with your finger?


Yes. For hard to get to areas I use a piece of scrap ABS from the initial trimming.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pre-Assembly cont...


3e. Sniper Knee


In this section I'll be preparing the left shin sniper knee for installation. After the initial trimming the lower return edge will need to be removed as seen here.






Afterwards clean up the remaining edges of the sniper knee. Here's some measurements. The measurements or return edges don't have to be exact.






Test fit.


Note:If you choose to apply for Centurion we will ask the the trailing edge of the sniper knee follow the same edge contour as the shin armor itself. 







  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assembly cont....


7d. Thighs (front)


Cover strip info (front)



Note: In regards to the thighs, the cover starts at the top of the butt connection but ends just above the lower return edge as seen here. This is the same for the back also.





Right thigh. Measure butt connection area. The coverage area should be approximately the same between inner and outer sections. Inner and outer sections should be closely aligned at he upper and lower sections of the armor.





Chamfer the cover strip edges.





Apply glue to both sides, add cover strip and clamp. Tape added to keep the two sides tight against one another.






Left side. 




Measure butt connection. Cut cover strip, Apply glue, Install strip. Add tape if needed.





Let dry. Remove clamps and inspect.









To be cont...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assembly cont...


7e. Thighs (rear) 


Cover strip info




Starting with the left thigh. Secure and measure butt connection area.






Add glue and install cover strip.




Right side. This side is the tricky part. Where the butt connection comes together the angle is not cover strip mounting friendly.





I'll be using the technique where I glue the cover strip to one side first then after it dries I'll attach the other. First we need to measure for the cover strip.





Apply glue to one side (doesn't matter which). Install cover strip and clamp.





After drying




Once dried remove any excess (dried) glue from the inner cover strip area before proceeding. 


Add glue to inside cover strip.




Add clamps and tape as needed. The goal here is the not only close the gap between the two halves but also try to get the connection area as flat as possible so that the cover strip has a good amount of surface to adhere to.




After drying. Left thigh




Right thigh




Completed (left and right)


Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/7/2016 at 2:20 PM, blackyck said:

I have a question on the test fitting and measuring of the thighs. The first one fit perfect you stated and you took measurements and used those measurements for the other one. Was that just for ease and assuming both legs are the same size? Many thanks. Great reference this thread!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


"Was that just for ease and assuming both legs are the same size? " A. Both

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11. Waist belt - Accuracy modifications - 


31/1/18 - Please check the CRL for any belt requirement changes before proceeding. 


3/3/16 - The official word is the following belt modification is accepted at the EIB (L2) however, it is NOT acceptable at Centurion. The cloth portion of the belt assembly will need to be replaced for Centurion approval. Stay tuned for a tutorial on how to change out the cloth portion of the belt. More recent customers may have received their belts unassembled. It's my understanding the separate belt is still NOT accepted at L2 or above. 


At this point you can either skip the following belt modification and replace the cloth portion of the belt all together or continue on if EIB is as far as you plan on going.


1) Remove upper holster mounting screws and repair holes to fabric for ANH Stunt Centurion approval


2) Replace line 24 snaps with screen accurate "Popper" snaps. Accuracy ONLY!

Note: Replacing the preinstalled line 24 female snaps provided by ANOVOS is not necessary for approvals at any level. This is strictly an accuracy modification. 


3) Correct elastic to drop box connection then glue drop box elastic to belt for ANH Stunt. Accuracy ONLY!


Identify issues:


1) Upper holster mounts are not ANH Stunt approved (remove)




2) Replace line 24 snaps with popper snaps




3) Correct drop box connections





Making Modifications:


1a. Modifying Holster and repair cloth belt.


Remove the upper holster mount screws then trim leather above the lower mount. 





1b. Repair upper holster holes.


In this section I elected to use a section from the existing belt to avoid any fabric mismatching. At one end of the belt is a 1-1/4" x 3" section of velcro. I simply removed the velcro then cut a 1/2" x 1-1/2" swatch of fabric from the belt. Afterwards I sewed the velcro back on the belt.






Cut the swatch in two then trimmed them into 3/8" circles.




Test fit




Add fabric glue to one side.





Sandwich in between two clean hard material then place in vice or clamp. Let dry for several hours.









2a. Replacing the line 24 snaps with popper snaps. Skip ahead if you wish not to perform this update.

NOTE!!! This next portion is neither required or necessary for any reason other than accuracy. You do NOT have to do this.


Using a drill and 3/6" bit drill out the post. Use a pair of pliers or similar to hold the head of the post from behind the cloth.





Installing popper snaps. Place a sturdy item between the belt and ammo belt. Secure the item in a vice or similar.IMG_6482.jpg




Using a set (installation) tool place head (male stem) and tool underneath belt.




Install female portion of snap. Using setting anvil set snap.




3a. Correctly installing drop boxes for accuracy.


Remove drop boxes. Note: It may be possible to re-use the drop box elastic but since I didn't want to take that chance I cut them off then pulled the elastic from the drop boxes themselves.





Using 3/4" wide white elastic cut two sections 10" long.




Using a 1/8" leather tool punch a hole through both ends around 1/2" from the end.




Wrap elastic around waist belt. Place drop box at the base of the ammo belt edge. Mark drop box with a pencil.




Drill a 1/8" hole




Connect elastic to drop box via 1/8" x 1/8" pop rivet.








Glue drop box elastic to cloth belt. Align drop boxes with the end of the ammo belt (a Centurion requirement)


Apply glue in the following areas then clamp and let dry.







Belt modifications completed


  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha! I proposed using a hidden piece of the existing belt cloth to repair the upper holes when the issue first blew up. I'm glad my idea has been validated!<br><br>

Of course, I've purchased one of Rob's replacement belts anyway, so I won't be doing this, personally. ;)<br><br>

GREAT update, Tony. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not to derail the topic but... yeah.. how they're connected shouldn't stop you from Centurion as long as they sit right in the right position. 


Tony you may want to clarify to all the new folks that changing the snaps on the belt and switching how the drop boxes are attached is not a centurion requirement. But rather how they are positioned is important. 


Nothing on the inside of the armor should be counted toward Centurion approval including strapping. 




Yea I was going after the accuracy hag chimed in just couldn't get tapatalk to work correctly. Correction made. Thanks boss  :duim:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Question about the forearm fitment. I have skinny wrists and large hands. Current fitment cutting on the Anovos cut lines, leaves quite a bit of room around the wrists. Should this be trimmed down to where you can just get a bare hand through? There will still be plenty of room for gloves to fit and still leave lot's of slack (adding foam on the inside to center). Looking at it, I could trim the bottom outside edge (the part with the dimples) down about 1/2" leaving plenty of room for hands to fit through and making the distance from the return edge (from dimpled section) to the edge strip equal on both sides of the outer forearm. Or should this be removed from the inner piece leaving the distance from the dimples to the butt joint unequal, shorter width on the top outside and longer width on the bottom outside. 


Hey Kevin, I personally wouldn't trim the armor down much more than what I've cut on mine to. Taking too much off you run the risk of not being able to mount the cover strips properly, not to mention too skinny the forearms may look off compared to the rest of the armor. Using foam to take up the slack is the better of the two options. Hope this helps 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tony thanks for this build - really awesome and helpful.  Update with the belt is one I think a ton of people have been waiting on - thanks for such a great simple solution!


I have a question about fitting related to the last question.  This may be answered in final fitment so please just let me know if you will answer this in the future.


I am building this for my daughter and was planning on trimming down the circumference of the forearms.  Good to see your recommendation to just leave as close to possible as yours and insert foam if needed.  What about length of forearm, shin and thigh pieces.  Can the vertical length be shortened?  Like with the thigh I assume you couldn't trim at the bottom because the forming of the ridge would be lost.  So could you take off material at the top, just following the contour of the existing line?  Basically how do you compensate for shorter limbs?


You may be answering this in final fitment, so it may be trimming you just to after assembling the halves.  Just wanted to make sure to ask about this as I'm guessing she may need some shortening somehow...


Hey Dave thanks for the kudos brother, glad to be of help.


Shorter troopers, trimming the following areas is most common however, you can only take off so much before it's no longer 501st acceptable. Do so with care:


Forearms - upper or lower sections

Biceps - upper or lower sections

Thighs - upper section, besides cutting behind the knees

Shins - lower section, besides cutting behind the knees

Ab - upper return edge section

Chest - lower return edge section

Back - lower return edge section

Kidney - upper and lower return edge section

Posterior - upper return edge section


Hope this make sense 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10. Thermal Detonator


10a. Trimming & pre-assembly. In this section I'll prep the TD for assembly.


Initial measurements show the TD to be a bit long (7-5/8" long with the caps not installed). With the caps installed it was about 7-3/4".

Accurate TD width should be around 7-1/4" to 7-1/2" with the caps installed. Here's a reference pic of movie used TD.





Note: As much as I'd like to build the TD very close to canon specs, without replacing the control panel it won't be possible. The control panel is just under 1/2" from what's seen above in the reference pic. The face plate ended up being around 4 1/8" or 105mm after removing the return edge. No worries peeps, it's not a huge deal, my OCD will just have to take a back seat on this one. I've talked to a couple others who have the same issue, and I don't want to make everyone run out and purchase a new control panel over minor issue. It's good to go






Another minor issue was the tube length. After the initial trimming and measurements it ended up being around 1/2" too long eve with the caps off.  I elected to remove around 3/16" (4mm) from each side to square the each end (3/8" or 8mm total tube length). 





After the initially trimming the end caps ended up being around 11/16" or 18mm in width. Good to go 





Fitting the end caps. The end caps are a bit tight even if you file the tube edge down. To avoid any splitting issues with the caps I gave them a hot water bath prior to installing and final assembly. 

Note: If you don't have any experience with or don't feel comfortable with the hot water bath process then skip this step. It's not going to effect the assembly process or accuracy.


End Cap hot water bath and fitment. 

Note: This procedure requires working with boiling water. Take the necessary precautions to not burn yourself.  


Begin with sanding down the edge of the tube ends.




Bring a 1/2 quart or similar pan of water to a boil. 




Place cap in boiling water for 30 seconds





Remove cap from boiling water and gently but firmly place cap on tube end and force it all the way down. Let cool. Remove cap before proceeding to do the other side.




After fitment the total tube length is around 7 1/4"




to be cont...

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10b. Painting TD


In this section I'll prep then paint the TD using Testors 1923 Gunship gray (very close to spec)


Note: This is not an accuracy thing, just preference. If you don't want to paint your tube, skip ahead.


First off using 400 grit wet and dry sand paper, sand entire tube.





Afterwards apply enough painters tape to cover an area larger the the control panel.




Lay control panel over tape and center with tube.




Outline control panel with a pencil or other.




Using an exacto knife trim tape about 1/8" inside the trace line. This will allow the cut marks made in the process to be located under the plate at the time of gluing.




Add tape to the ends of the tube but leave it about 1/8" shorter in width then the caps themselves.






Check to ensure areas that need to be covered and areas that don't, aren't.




Paint tube. Let dry. Remove tape. Test fit components







Ready for assembly!


to be cont...

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6. Strapping


6a. Strapping Pre-assembly. In this section I'll be preparing to install the bracket strapping system as seen in the movie armor shown here. 




Bracket kit provided by Darren (aka Mr. No Stripes). The kit consists 18 brackets (15 short, 3 long), 9 elastic loops, 36 screws and 36 nuts. The 3 long brackets are for the chest plate, the short brackets are for the Ab, Back, Kidney and Posterior plates.  The Chest plate will be the last to be discussed. Until then we'll be the othes plates with the shorter brackets.


Short brackets.




Starting with the Back plate, left side. Measure out 3/4" from the inner most return edge. Locate and mark the first hole. 





Mark the hole on the opposite side of the bracket.




Now let's do the same for the right side.




Using a ruler measure the distance between the two bracket (inner) holes. Divide the distance between the two. This should put you close to dead center of the back plate itself.




Center the remaining bracket and mark the mounting holes




Back plate is ready to drill




Kidney plate (upper):


Note: The following images are inverted. Though it appears your working on the lower return edge, it is not. This is the upper return edge we are discussing.


Locate inner return edges. Divide, center back plate and mark location.




Center bracket and mark mounting holes




Confirm the back to kidney plate alignment




Continuing on with the kidney, locate and mark the left and right side bracket mounting holes in relation to the back plate mounting holes.




Kidney plate (lower):


As with the upper return edge locate and mark the bracket outer holes. In this are we are near the 22mm notch. Locate the inner return edge and mark the bracket mounting locations as needed. 


Left side




Right side










Lay kidney and posterior plates next to each as done with the back and kidney plates. Confirm the two are centered. Locate and mark the bracket mounting hole accordingly. 

Note: The outer bracket locations will differ due to the asymmetrical design of the posterior. This is normal





Ab & Chest:


Center the ab and chest plates (this doesn't have to be perfect).




Small brackets on the ab, Large bracket on chest. Center and mark center bracket mounting holes. Note the difference in width between the two bracket sizes.




On the chest return edge. Measure 1 3/4" from the outer edge, mark first bracket mounting hole. Do this on both sides.





Lay chest place next to ab plate. Center and mark ab bracket locations. Center bracket and mark bracket mounting locations.




Drilling holes:


Using a 7/64 drill bit and a block of wood or similar, drill all mounting hole locations.





After drilling






Lower kidney




Upper kidney












Note: As mention earlier in the build I'll be inserting ABS shims between the brackets and plates to strengthen the mounting locations. This is not mandatory, just my preference. BTW the abs shims are not shown yet.


Test fit screws and brackets





Ready to assemble




to be cont....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thank you for doing this detailed build!<br><br>

Question: I haven't trimmed my TD control panel at all. It's 4 1/2". I really don't see any return edge. Maybe just a little ridge on the left underside that I plan to sand off, and on the right underside there is kind of a line formed into the plastic. But from the top view it looks good without trimming. <br><br>

Can I just leave it 4 1/2"? Am I missing something?


Leave it


I am curious as to why you chose to paint the TD.  Is it just to try and get as close to screen accuracy as possible?  It seems the color of the tube is pretty good out of the box.  Is painting necessary for Centurion or is it just a personal choice?


Painting is not necessary as long as the tube color is correct and it appears the ANOVOS tube color is close enough. For me it's a matter of preference. Clean and shiny ;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tony, <br><br>

would you mind double-checking your 9/32 bit size? Seems really large. I'm thinking its 9/64 or 5/32.<br><br>



It's 7/64, I don't know where I pulled the 9/32 from. Maybe from a deep dark place we won't talk about. Thanks for the catch Daryl

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4d. Ab & Kidney Split Rivet Pre-assembly


In this section I'll be preparing the left side Ab to Kidney split rivet assembly


Here's a look at some screen used armor




Starting off with the Ab side.


Split rivet placement. Though there's been some debate as to where exactly the rivets measure from the top and bottom, the agreed distance they are from the ab to kidney side return edges is 10mm. 


In this build I'll be starting the first hole at the top of the Ab. It will be placed 20mm from the top and 10mm from the side.


20mm down from the top




10mm from the side




At the opposite side of the Ab stopping at the first return edge I measured up 10mm




10mm from the side




Measure the distance between the top and bottom locations then mark the 3rd, center location.





Now for the Kidney.

Starting with the top edge measuring down 20mm.




10mm from the side




Lower return edge measuring up around 40mm or directly across from the lower ab rivet.




Lower side 10mm




Middle 10mm




Done and ready to drill.




Using a 1/8" drill bit drill out the holes. The rivets may be a little snug (better than loose) however, if they're too tight reinsert the drill and hone it out a bit. I've found with most drill bit sets going to the next size up makes the holes a bit too big for my liking.






Test fit the rivets. You may need to pinch the tip down a bit to get them started being they come flared a bit.








Remove rivets to paint. Testers Gloss White


Nylon strapping will be installed a bit later 


To be cont...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4e. Ab Waist Belt Mount


In this section I'll be installing the male snaps for the waist belt mounting. 


I'll be using screen accurate male popper snaps to be used with the female poppers installed on the waist belt mentioned earlier in the waist belt accuracy modification section http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=465111.  The line 24 male snaps provided by ANOVOS will work just as well and are approved at all levels. The popper snaps are for accuracy only. 


Here's some screen used armor for reference.




Waist belt mount:


ANOVOS supplied instructions have you place the belt almost directly centered with the ab plate. Screen shots however show the belt off center from the ab center and instead centered with the large button plate on the ab. Sounds a bit confusing I know so here's a few screen shots. Notice how the center button of the belt is slightly off set from the ab plate itself. 





There's no right or wrong in regards to which of the two positions you choose to use. I prefer to use the position shown in the pics above instead of ANOVOS's suggested position. With that said you can either follow along with my instructions or you're more than welcome to use ANOVOS instructions listed on page 1. Either way is accepted at all levels of approval.


If you go the ANOVOS route, afterwards skip on down to "Drilling holes for male snap" and continue from there.


Note: Though this may stir some debate among the accuracy elitists don't fret, in the end we're all just spacemen looking to have some fun, right?


Another note: These measurements will work with the soft ANOVOS belt. If using a belt like Kittles you'll need to account for the stiffness and flex of the belt. 


On with it then. After replacing the waist belt line 24 snaps with poppers I double checked the snap to snap distance which measured 13-1/4".




NOTE: If you're using the ANOVOS supplied belt your measurements should be the same as mine despite the fact I changed the snaps. The measurements were the same before I replaced them. 


Use the following measurements to locate and mark the male mounting snap holes.


Left mounting hole (illustrated below)

1-3/8" from left/center return edge

1/2" from lower return edge





Right mounting hole:

1-1/4" from right/center return edge

1" from lower return edge





Afterwards use a fabric tape to measure and confirm the distance between left and right mounting locations on the ab are the same as the belt.



Drilling holes for male snap. The particular poppets I used required a 11/64 drill bit. Drill holes at the snap mounting location.

After drilling




Install male snaps:


Starting with the posts. Insert posts from the inside of the armor.






Using a strong block of wood or other, place on a firm footing ex. floor, vise, etc. Place behind male snap. If using a line 24 snap use the post tool behind the snap first.



Install male snap




Using popper setting tool to drive and secure male snap onto post. For line 24 snaps use setting tool for that type of snap. 










Test fit belt


  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4f. Ab Right side rivet assembly


In this section I'll install the Centurion required male snap found on the upper right hand side of the ab.

Note: The Centurion required snap does not need to be functional. 


From the top right corner measure 20mm vertical and 20mm horizontal from the outer most return edge (sorry for the blurry pic)




This is the same male snap used for the waist belt. Drill the rivet post hole. This time install the base post from the outside inwards.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • ukswrath changed the title to Uswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...