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Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)


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Given that you used E6000 (good call!), and simple enough, I'd just take that apart and re-glue. Should be a very straightforward process. :) One day delay, not a big deal.

 

I recommend taping all clamped connections, for future gluing. It's amazing how slippery E6000 is, and it always wants to drift even clamped down. Just a couple strips of tape across the cover strip does a good job of avoiding any drift overnight.

 

Edit: Heh. Take a phone call in the middle of typing a response, and you get scooped! LOL

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In this tutorial I'll be building the ANOVOS TK armor as ANH Stunt. Though the kit appears to have all the necessary components for 501st basic approval I'll be changing a few things in hopes of

1000+ Insane! Not this is some milestone or anything but a big    to all that have either supported, contributed or benefited from this thread.   

If it's alright with Ukswrath, I'm compiling the main information of this build into a searchable .pdf.  I figured that way someone could DL it so they're not tied to the internet when building their

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Hey Tomas in the grans scheme of it all it's really not that bad however, if you're not satisfied you can try re-gluing it, this time adding painters tape to assist in holding the two sections together while it dries. Keep up the great work

Thanks, I knew it wasn't the worst thing that could have happened, but I do think I'll try it over again just to clean things up. Thanks for the encouragement!

 

Given that you used E6000 (good call!), and simple enough, I'd just take that apart and re-glue. Should be a very straightforward process. :) One day delay, not a big deal.

 

I recommend taping all clamped connections, for future gluing. It's amazing how slippery E6000 is, and it always wants to drift even clamped down. Just a couple strips of tape across the cover strip does a good job of avoiding any drift overnight.

 

Edit: Heh. Take a phone call in the middle of typing a response, and you get scooped! LOL

Interestingly enough, I actually had the pieces taped together on the back of the connection running lengthwise up the seam to help with aligning the two pieces since I'm doing this on my own. This situation was kind of the culmination of several issues I had with the right forearm. I think this time I'll try the painters tape across the top of the pieces.

Just wondering, if I do take it apart (I think I probably will) what's the best way to take it apart? I know how to clean off the excess glue, but I'm not clear on total glue removal.

And thank you both for your speedy and helpful replies!

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Thanks, I knew it wasn't the worst thing that could have happened, but I do think I'll try it over again just to clean things up. Thanks for the encouragement!

 

Interestingly enough, I actually had the pieces taped together on the back of the connection running lengthwise up the seam to help with aligning the two pieces since I'm doing this on my own. This situation was kind of the culmination of several issues I had with the right forearm. I think this time I'll try the painters tape across the top of the pieces.

Just wondering, if I do take it apart (I think I probably will) what's the best way to take it apart? I know how to clean off the excess glue, but I'm not clear on total glue removal.

And thank you both for your speedy and helpful replies!

 

I use a butter knife. Stand the forearm vertical, start the knife on on end, like a "T" handle, slide it down separating the two in seconds.

 

Oh! and wear gloves  ;)

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I found it relatively easily to simply pull them apart. Be careful initially so you don't bend the plastic and crease anything, and it takes a bit of muscle power, but once it starts it pulls apart pretty easily. At least, my shins did when I tore them apart. Same construction for the arms, so should be the same.

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Lens time. 

I mounted my lens as seen here in this reference pic. Not entirely sure of its accurate but l use the same technique in all my buckets and it works excellent.

gallery_12157_59_75873.jpg

 

 

Long story short center your lens material, firmly pres against the ear screws leaving a dimple in the material. Drill the dimpled area with the same screw size, in my case 3/16". Install lens.

 

 

I'm still looking for a good solution for the lens.  Kind of hesitant to chop the lens up and glue it to the eyes.  I was thinking of following your instructions by drilling two holes into each side of the visor.  However, I would use the existing Anovos screws that are already in the helmet.  Would this work?  What size drill bit should I use?

 

I'm also curious about using these for padding the helmet.  Any other suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/Myheartgoon-Tactical-Airsoft-Helmet-Accessories/dp/B016GTU3PK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467094450&sr=8-4&keywords=helmet+pads

Edited by Construx
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Lens time. 

I mounted my lens as seen here in this reference pic. Not entirely sure of its accurate but l use the same technique in all my buckets and it works excellent.

 

 

 

Long story short center your lens material, firmly pres against the ear screws leaving a dimple in the material. Drill the dimpled area with the same screw size, in my case 3/16". Install lens.

 

 

I'm still looking for a good solution for the lens.  Kind of hesitant to chop the lens up and glue it to the eyes.  I was thinking of following your instructions by drilling two holes into each side of the visor.  However, I would use the existing Anovos screws that are already in the helmet.  Would this work?  What size drill bit should I use?

 

I'm also curious about using these for padding the helmet.  Any other suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/Myheartgoon-Tactical-Airsoft-Helmet-Accessories/dp/B016GTU3PK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467094450&sr=8-4&keywords=helmet+pads

 

 

Hey Erik, yes you can use the existing Anovos ear screws to mount the lens however, as mentioned previously we (the FISD deployment officers) are recommending you replace the existing ear screws with ones more accurate. They should be "V" head shaped not flat head. Either way find a matching drill size, or a slightly larger bit and drill the lens material. All this info can be found starting here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=475530 

 

Hope this helps

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Hey Ukswrath!

Thanks SOOOO much for this tutorial. I've been following it each step of my build.

 

Just one question (so far). Are these the correct size 10 sew in snaps for the shoulder to front/back white elastic strap? They seem....huge.

 

2016-06-28%2009.19.17.jpg

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Hey Ukswrath!

Thanks SOOOO much for this tutorial. I've been following it each step of my build.

 

Just one question (so far). Are these the correct size 10 sew in snaps for the shoulder to front/back white elastic strap? They seem....huge.

 

2016-06-28%2009.19.17.jpg

I am not he, but those are the correct snaps.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

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I am not he, but those are the correct snaps.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

Thank you so much. Guess 3rd time is a charm. First two batches I purchased were wrong. 1st order were not sew in. 2nd order were sew in, but wrong size. All will find uses somewhere I'm sure.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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^^ I agree, they look a lot bigger in person than they do in pictures, but the size 10 are definitely the right ones.

 

I used black because they were out of the nickel ones and I was in a hurry. Black seem to work pretty well, too, so far. :)

 

20160624104706-ba20b396-la.jpg

Edited by kman
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Hey Ukswrath!

Thanks SOOOO much for this tutorial. I've been following it each step of my build.

 

Just one question (so far). Are these the correct size 10 sew in snaps for the shoulder to front/back white elastic strap? They seem....huge.

 

 

Yep

 

Are the snaps required for basic or other approval?

I'm going for basic and my advisor is telling me just to use Velcro everywhere.

 

Connecting snaps no. The posterior and right ab must have the base snaps though they don't need to be functional.

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Are the snaps required for basic or other approval?

I'm going for basic and my advisor is telling me just to use Velcro everywhere.

The Anovos Velcro is great for fitting, but the adhesive melts if you troop in serious heat. (90 degrees+)

 

So unless you live somewhere perpetually cool, I'd consider upgrading to snaps eventually. No reason you can't stick with Velcro through approval, of course, but once you start really trooping, it may cause issues.

 

As Tony said, only a few of the snaps (the ones Anovos provided, that you can see outside of the armor) are required.

Edited by kman
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My plan is to upgrade to snaps/Velcro combination after approval. It's ugly now but seemed quicker and more flexible for fitting.

My wife looked at it and said "why don't you just put Velcro across the whole surface!" Nice.

 

b7e998a2d0abd89d55a33c090383a1ac.jpg

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I have an Anovos and am using the straps right now. I, too, plan to incorporate snaps after I'm approved. Once you're fine and submit for approval start investigating into snaps. That way your prepared to switch sooner rather than later.

 

Velcro is great but it's flexible and doesn't always grab correctly, leaving more wiggle room than you want.

My plan is to upgrade to snaps/Velcro combination after approval. It's ugly now but seemed quicker and more flexible for fitting.

My wife looked at it and said "why don't you just put Velcro across the whole surface!" Nice.

 

b7e998a2d0abd89d55a33c090383a1ac.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

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Yep

 

 

Connecting snaps no. The posterior and right ab must have the base snaps though they don't need to be functional.

I was under the assumption the right ab only required the snap for Centurion approval. Is that incorrect?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I was under the assumption the right ab only required the snap for Centurion approval. Is that incorrect?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

As well as the posterior correct

 

gallery_12157_16_50082-cropb.jpg

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I was under the assumption the right ab only required the snap for Centurion approval. Is that incorrect?

Correct, but Anovos gives you the snaps, may as well use them!
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Just to be perfectly clear for the new builders, the Ab snap base is only required for Centurion and the Posterior snap bases are required for EIB and Centurion. 

 

AB

For level three certification (if applicable):

  • A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present.

Posterior

For level two certification (if applicable):

  • Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab of the Posterior Armor.
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Hey Tony, sorry if this has been covered: You're right about the TD tube length being a little long, and after fitment (with the caps) mine is about 7.75". The CRL calls for "approximately 7.5," so should I try to remove the excess pipe or do you think I'll be fine submitting with a TD that's a little on the long side?

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Hey Tony, sorry if this has been covered: You're right about the TD tube length being a little long, and after fitment (with the caps) mine is about 7.75". The CRL calls for "approximately 7.5," so should I try to remove the excess pipe or do you think I'll be fine submitting with a TD that's a little on the long side?

 

Hey Tomas, if you're interested in accuracy remove 1/4" off the tube however, if you don't care then I don't worry about it.  ;)

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Hey Tony, sorry if this has been covered: You're right about the TD tube length being a little long, and after fitment (with the caps) mine is about 7.75". The CRL calls for "approximately 7.5," so should I try to remove the excess pipe or do you think I'll be fine submitting with a TD that's a little on the long side?

As Tony said, it doesn't matter for approval, but it's a pretty simple accuracy mod and it looks MUCH more balanced if you just lop off that 1/4". (side by side pics in my build thread)
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Hey Tomas, if you're interested in accuracy remove 1/4" off the tube however, if you don't care then I don't worry about it.  ;)

 

As Tony said, it doesn't matter for approval, but it's a pretty simple accuracy mod and it looks MUCH more balanced if you just lop off that 1/4". (side by side pics in my build thread)

Well my only qualm about it was that I'm personally not well-equipped to cut any kind of pipe, but I know where I can get access to the hardware to do that. So I'll just make arrangements and get that done on a later date.

Thank you both very much! I've got to get a build thread started so I can stop just posting on your build, Tony  :laugh1:

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Well my only qualm about it was that I'm personally not well-equipped to cut any kind of pipe, but I know where I can get access to the hardware to do that. So I'll just make arrangements and get that done on a later date.

Thank you both very much! I've got to get a build thread started so I can stop just posting on your build, Tony  :laugh1:

Takes about 60 seconds with a hand saw if you go slow. ;)

 

(and the cap hides the end so it needn't be perfect!

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  • ukswrath changed the title to Uswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

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