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ukswrath

Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

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You can remove as much return edge as you need on the forearms. It looks better with some, but if you need to remove it all to fit, that's fine. (The wrist edge needs to come off entirely, of course)

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You can remove as much return edge as you need on the forearms. It looks better with some, but if you need to remove it all to fit, that's fine. (The wrist edge needs to come off entirely, of course)

 

I have removed the wrist return edge to what I believe to be centurion standards. I'm pretty sure the wrist is fine at this point. I just don't want to take too much off the elbow and end up ruining my chances for centurion. Also, should I assemble and glue the piece before I remove the return edge I need to remove from the top or should I do that before assembly?

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I have removed the wrist return edge to what I believe to be centurion standards. I'm pretty sure the wrist is fine at this point. I just don't want to take too much off the elbow and end up ruining my chances for centurion. Also, should I assemble and glue the piece before I remove the return edge I need to remove from the top or should I do that before assembly?

 

Hey Tomas very pleased to see you on the build path  :duim: . Kalani is correct, removing the upper return edge will not effect any level of approvals. Trim as you need to, inside armor section first then the outer.

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Hey Tomas very pleased to see you on the build path  :duim: . Kalani is correct, removing the upper return edge will not effect any level of approvals. Trim as you need to, inside armor section first then the outer.

Thanks! I've been working on it whenever I can, but it's been slow going because I've been so busy with work and school (and because I'm nervous for my first build). Thanks for the info, though!

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I have removed the wrist return edge to what I believe to be centurion standards. I'm pretty sure the wrist is fine at this point. I just don't want to take too much off the elbow and end up ruining my chances for centurion. Also, should I assemble and glue the piece before I remove the return edge I need to remove from the top or should I do that before assembly?

My personal recommendation is to have the pice fully built before cutting pieces off. Once it's solid you can use a Dremel or file or whatever to reduce and smooth that elbow-side return edge until it fits you correctly.

 

If you remove the edge first, unless it's precisely the same once assembled, you'll have to tweak it anyway. And sometimes things fit slightly different when glued vs taped.

Edited by kman
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Thanks! I've been working on it whenever I can, but it's been slow going because I've been so busy with work and school (and because I'm nervous for my first build). Thanks for the info, though!

 

Our pleasure. It's not a race, so take your time if you need to.  :duim:

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My personal recommendation is to have the pice fully built before cutting pieces off. Once it's solid you can use a Dremel or file or whatever to reduce and smooth that elbow-side return edge until it fits you correctly.

 

If you remove the edge first, unless it's precisely the same once assembled, you'll have to tweak it anyway. And sometimes things fit slightly different when glued vs taped.

That's what I thought, I just wanted to make sure.

 

Our pleasure. It's not a race, so take your time if you need to.  :duim:

Yeah, I'm definitely going to be taking my time. I'd rather go slowly than make mistakes!

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9cc2c218f024dcbf4e48216fa848a474.jpg

 

I'm sorry if this has been asked already I didn't see it! But are those the same (the one that's out of stock and the one that's in stock) cuz I dont know what the difference is minus the 831 and 201 i dont know what that stands for. I'm new to all this so sorry for the noob question

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The 201 has a longer stud which you don't need. If the link I provided shows out of stock just search again for another supplier. Hope this helps

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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The 201 has a longer stud which you don't need. If the link I provided shows out of stock just search again for another supplier. Hope this helps

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Thank you for your help! I dont know why it double posted!

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Thank you for your help! I dont know why it double posted!

 

No worries  :)

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hey another question! so for internal strapping number 7! do i need both tandy and fastnap? and if so what do i need at fastnap? all 14 items that shows up? sorry for all the questions im just trying to order everything today!

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hey another question! so for internal strapping number 7! do i need both tandy and fastnap? and if so what do i need at fastnap? all 14 items that shows up? sorry for all the questions im just trying to order everything today!

 

All questions are welcome ;) . Tandy is fine, I just posted multiple options so there are choices, you don't need both. Fasnap snaps are just a higher grade of snap in my opinion but Tandy is commonly used.  

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Sorry for the delay. Totally forgot to post this. Completely optional of course

 

19. Helmet Electronics:

In this short section I'll be installing my Hovi Audio system, my Stormtrooper Hearing Assist (SHA) system and my cooling fan kit.

 

Before installing the electronics the helmet is equipped with a hard hat liner which serves two purposes, increases the space available to install components and also increases air flow around the head.

 

 

1) Install 2" velcro at the back of helmet. This area is where all the larger components will be placed.

IMG_7961.jpg

 

2) Add velcro to the back of the iComm Voice Modulation box. Install in helmet

IMG_7963.jpgIMG_7964.jpg

IMG_7965.jpg

 

3) Install amplifier

IMG_7966.jpgIMG_7968.jpgIMG_7969.jpg

 

4) Install cooling fan battery case

IMG_7970.jpgIMG_7971.jpg1af2051d-a843-4814-ab5c-d401e7474271.jpg

 

 

5) Install SHA (hearing assist) PCB and battery box with on/off switch

IMG_7979.jpgIMG_7980.jpgIMG_7982.jpg

 

 

6) Install cooling fans near the front of the helmet.

IMG_7972.jpg28d5a909-f435-4994-9259-0c9d11618261.jpgIMG_7976.jpgIMG_7975.jpgIMG_7977.jpg234f2639-3b3a-4020-b162-9867cca99c49.jpg

 

 

7) Install Hovi tips and Omni-Directional microphone.

 

7a. Remove old (Original) Hovi tips

IMG_7983.jpg

 

 

7b. Enlarge mounting holes and install harness and mounting posts.

IMG_7985.jpgIMG_7986.jpg

 

7c. Add connecting wires. Mic to iComm, iComm to amp, amp to speakers.

IMG_7988.jpg

 

Done!

 

At the time of taking these pictures the headset was worn on the troopers head, since then it has been permanently fixed to the lens screws. Also, the hearing assist pickup mics were positioned at the end of the frown with insulating tape. Since seeing mine behind the ears the trooper has requested to move his,  so no pictures for them as well.

 

Enjoy!

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Hold on... could you please go over the hard hat liner model and install?

 

Thanks.

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Hold on... could you please go over the hard hat liner model and install?

 

Thanks.

 

Do you want pictures or is verbal sufficient?

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Nope. Trooped with the guy a couple weekends back. He did have any complaints.

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Tony, what's your stance on painting the inside of the helmet black? Other than aesthetic reasons and departing from screen-used accuracy, are there any advantages? I've wondered if it really made any difference with lens transparency or glare?

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Do you want pictures or is verbal sufficient?

 

I guess verbal would be fine. I just couldn't tell what and how the white brackets were that attach it to the helmet.

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Tony, what's your stance on painting the inside of the helmet black? Other than aesthetic reasons and departing from screen-used accuracy, are there any advantages? I've wondered if it really made any difference with lens transparency or glare?

 

Not a huge fan, my opinion only. I tend to use a lot of velcro for goodies and I find they stick better when adhered directly to the plastic. Also I could be totally wrong here but most if not all are painted black, doesn't black absorb heat. I don't know I could be totally off base here. 

 

I guess verbal would be fine. I just couldn't tell what and how the white brackets were that attach it to the helmet.

 

$9 hard hat from Home Depot.

 

Install insert into helmet. Adjust strap until the insert feels comfortable but snug on your head. Remove the insert marking the location of the insert connections and the helmet mounting locations (LF = left front, RF= Right front, etc.)

 

From the lower rim of the helmet, parallel to the helmet insert mount (hump in helmet, can't miss it) cut upwards roughly 3" on each side of the mount. Then across the two cuts to form a curved rectangle roughly

1-1/2" x 3". Once all the sections have been cut remove any burrs and rough edges. Connect the mounts to the insert, test fit the assembly in the helmet ensuring the front brim of the insert is facing forward and positioned just above the upper eye return edge. Using a sharpie mark the location of the mounts. This doesn't have to be perfect. Remove assembly.

 

Install industrial strength velcro on the mounts and helmet then reinstall insert. Adjust as needed.

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I'm sorry everyone.<br>

I know this is a silly post, seeing how it's all been covered.<br>

I'm hoping someone could list out for me all the return edges that are supposed to be removed.<br>

Starting on my strapping and such real soon, but wanna make sure I haven't missed anything.<br>

Easy to have left something out, seeing how many pages this has stretched over.<br>

Thanks everyone and a big thanks to you Tony.<br>

Robert

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Wow, ok, this is a long list, so settle in. Ready?<br><br>

1. Wrist end of the forearms.<br><br>

That's it. Any other return edges you remove are completely optional, and for your comfort only.

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Wow, ok, this is a long list, so settle in. Ready?<br><br>

1. Wrist end of the forearms.<br><br>

That's it. Any other return edges you remove are completely optional, and for your comfort only.

Ha Ha!

You funny guy.

I knew I was askin for it, but I had to be sure.

Measure twice, cut once.

Thank you,

Robert

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