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Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)


ukswrath

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The outer piece looks "smaller" than the inner piece by maybe an inch, which makes me think I cut too much when I was sizing it. Not noticeable when I'm wearing them

 

Your fine. Obviously it won't be perfectly but then again it's not supposed to be. I wouldn't worry about it.  :duim:

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If the shim is installed so that there is no seam visible then yes Centurion is applicable however the shim needs to be applied at the back of the armor.

 

Tony- First off just an amazing post and resource that you have created here. This is my first armor build, and this reference has been priceless. Thank You! 

 

Back story: I’m following your thread diligently, however I am 6’ 7” – 250 lbs, so I’m adjusting accordingly and only going for basic approval.

 

Question: Everything is progressing with my build well. I’ve shim’ed the biceps, shins, and ab piece (extending it 2"). My last real obstacle is the thighs. I have large thighs (like 30” at the widest), and I’m just not sure on how to approach the thighs.

 

My original idea is to use a bit of a larger cover strip on the front, and they add extra room in the back. I’m just not sure how to accomplish that. Especially the backside. 

 

I was just curious if you had any advice?

 

Thanks 

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Hey BJ thanks for the kudos brother. Regarding shimming, we have a few linebackers in the legion and Walter, Haribon72 is excellent at giving advice in this area. I would shoot him a PM and get his opinion.

 

Hope this helps

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Loving this build, thanks so much for making a thread about it!! I recently got my armor from Anovos and this has been very helpful, I am almost done cutting, then on to fitting... Which i am a little nervous about, because them's serious cuts that actually matter. Then on to strapping. Again thanks a bunch!

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Loving this build, thanks so much for making a thread about it!! I recently got my armor from Anovos and this has been very helpful, I am almost done cutting, then on to fitting... Which i am a little nervous about, because them's serious cuts that actually matter. Then on to strapping. Again thanks a bunch!

 

My pleasure Andy. If you have any questions don't be afraid to ask. Besides myself there are many experienced builders that can also respond to your questions if I can't get to them in a timely manner.

 

Cheers

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Fantastic!  Great reference pics for us to follow.  This thread is so awesome!  :D

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Why is the cloth part of the Anovos belt unapprovable at Centurion?  I understand it is flimsy...but seems like if you supported it with ABS strips covered in cloth adhered to the back of the belt, you would not have that problem.  

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Why is the cloth part of the Anovos belt unapprovable at Centurion?  I understand it is flimsy...but seems like if you supported it with ABS strips covered in cloth adhered to the back of the belt, you would not have that problem.  

 

Hey Jason good question, the problem is not everyone's version of supported, corrected, acceptable enough, etc is the same. To eliminate any confusion or frustration on both sides of the approval process it was decided by the detachment staff the belt be replaced. This is only for Centurion

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1000+ Insane! Not this is some milestone or anything but a big   :jc_doublethumbup: to all that have either supported, contributed or benefited from this thread.   

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Thanks for the info...looks like I'll be hitting up Mr. Kittle for one of his belts then.  Was planning on just modding the Anovos, but looks like I'll get to play doctor.  I like what you did with the Garage Sale sign and not fully ABS pasting it.  If I happen to do a little damage (and it always looks like the middle one) I'll probably just end up doing that as a fix.  

 

I was close to #1000, 2 off..

 

I'll have to look and see what I'm going to need for screws, fasteners, etc...versus what was supplied by Anovos.  I'm trying to keep the cost down as I still have higher $$ items I need to get...but this is quickly adding up more and more.

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Thanks for the info...looks like I'll be hitting up Mr. Kittle for one of his belts then.  Was planning on just modding the Anovos, but looks like I'll get to play doctor.  I like what you did with the Garage Sale sign and not fully ABS pasting it.  If I happen to do a little damage (and it always looks like the middle one) I'll probably just end up doing that as a fix.  

 

I was close to #1000, 2 off..

 

I'll have to look and see what I'm going to need for screws, fasteners, etc...versus what was supplied by Anovos.  I'm trying to keep the cost down as I still have higher $$ items I need to get...but this is quickly adding up more and more.

 

A little bit of information regarding changing out the cloth belt. The plastic welder glue used to hold the rivet covers down is pretty strong though I notice once I put some heat to the area the glue softened up. I don't have another belt to try it with but I was going to try and give the ends rivets a hot water bath to see if this helps remove the cover without damaging. If someone wants to try it (at your own risk of course) and report back here on this thread that would be helpful.

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Since you're one of the those who looks at and approves Centurion Applications....do you have a comperehensive list of Screws, Snaps, and Rivets to use on the different parts.  What is supplied in the Anovos kit and what should be swapped out for screen accuracy?  I've been trying to piece this together, but it's proving difficult.

 

Helmet (ears):

Ab/Cod to Kidney:

Right side of Kidney:

Cod and Butt plate:

Plastic belt to Cloth:

Cloth belt to Ab plate:

 

Am I missing any more?

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Since you're one of the those who looks at and approves Centurion Applications....do you have a comperehensive list of Screws, Snaps, and Rivets to use on the different parts.  What is supplied in the Anovos kit and what should be swapped out for screen accuracy?  I've been trying to piece this together, but it's proving difficult.

 

Helmet (ears):

Ab/Cod to Kidney:

Right side of Kidney:

Cod and Butt plate:

Plastic belt to Cloth:

Cloth belt to Ab plate:

 

Am I missing any more?

 

lol... yea look at the beginning of this thread  ;)

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Ha!  I'm looking it over, making a diagram to make sense of it all.  I'll have to look at what I've got in my kit when I get home tonight.  You used S poppers when Line 24 snaps would work in their place?

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Ha!  I'm looking it over, making a diagram to make sense of it all.  I'll have to look at what I've got in my kit when I get home tonight.  You used S poppers when Line 24 snaps would work in their place?

 

Yes

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A little bit of information regarding changing out the cloth belt. The plastic welder glue used to hold the rivet covers down is pretty strong though I notice once I put some heat to the area the glue softened up. I don't have another belt to try it with but I was going to try and give the ends rivets a hot water bath to see if this helps remove the cover without damaging. If someone wants to try it (at your own risk of course) and report back here on this thread that would be helpful.

I'll agree that heat would probably be the secret. When drilling out the remaining rivet from the cover after a bit the washer and rivet would just break away from the bond. I put this down to the heat generated. There's some pictures in my build thread and one you can clearly see where the washer just lifted out.
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I am scared to death to pry the covers off. I have seen a few other build threads and it didn't go well. The middle one in particular doesn't leave lots of room to pry it off. I am currently on this part of my build and I have a Kittle belt. I am going to mess around with cutting the canvas away from the ABS and then afix the ABS to the front of the Kittle belt with industrial strength velco and/ or E6000 and see what happens. I will still attach the belt with snaps to the ab. I am taking pictures of the process and will post the results in a separate thread with a link here maybe if that is appropriate. This will not be a screen accurate way of putting the belt together so not for everyone, but in the spirit of "it doesn't show and won't affect higher levels of approval as long as it looks good" , I am willing to see how it winds up.

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I am scared to death to pry the covers off. I have seen a few other build threads and it didn't go well. The middle one in particular doesn't leave lots of room to pry it off. I am currently on this part of my build and I have a Kittle belt. I am going to mess around with cutting the canvas away from the ABS and then afix the ABS to the front of the Kittle belt with industrial strength velco and/ or E6000 and see what happens. I will still attach the belt with snaps to the ab. I am taking pictures of the process and will post the results in a separate thread with a link here maybe if that is appropriate. This will not be a screen accurate way of putting the belt together so not for everyone, but in the spirit of "it doesn't show and won't affect higher levels of approval as long as it looks good" , I am willing to see how it winds up.

 

So something that I have heard other people doing that seems like it would work well: Cut off the old belt AROUND the rivets, leaving the rivets, cover bits, and glue alone.  Cut and glue strips of ABS to the back side of the plastic belt, between the raised sections.  Drill holes in those bridges, and rivet the new TKittel belt to them.  Maybe glue the ends of the plastic belt down onto the new belt to keep it curved, but all of the strength of it will be on the bridges.

 

I haven't tried this yet, but I will be doing it on my Shadow Trooper when it shows up.

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