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TK-Jay's DisneyDoos E-11 Build


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Hey there,


While waiting on my AP armor, I thought it’d be a great idea to get this blaster build started!


I began with a Disney E-11 that I purchased from Ebay. Apparently these are going to be hard to find as time goes on because Disney has stopped selling all gun-like toys. (might have to get a few more while they are cheap)


I ordered a Doopy-Doos resin kit  for a Hasbro blaster that I plan on modifying to fit mine. Some pieces fit great, others… not so much. In the places that the Doopy kit doesn’t fit, I have also ordered some 3-D printed pieces from ShapeWays that were modeled by the FISD’s very talented CFP214 (Hi David!). The parts include the butt cap, the flash guard for the barrel, muzzle, sight, and D-ring holder.


Also, shout-out to EvilBoy for the name DisneyDoos. Let’s make this a thing!


Before we begin, I just want to say that I don’t build things like this very often, so I’m using this blaster as a kind of practice run for the real thing (Once I learn the ropes, I will be getting a full resin kit or pipe-build). That being said, I want to be able to troop with this one, and be able to let kids (and adults) hold it, so it needs to feel like a “real” firearm. Here’s hoping…


On to the build!


 Here’s a pic of what it looked like in the box:





I did not take this photo, I got it from another eBay listing. Unfortunately, I did not take any photos prior to painting, but you can check out the other disney build threads out there to get an idea. CFP214’s build thread includes measurements.


As soon as it arrived, I chopped-off the orange “muzzle,” removed the electronics, and then sanded and painted the whole blaster with flat black spray paint. I then practiced my weathering skills a bit.


Resulting in this:




I think it looks pretty neat as is, but I can't wait to get the DD kit and add all the fun bits!

Edited by TK-Jay
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Here's some more photos of the stock blaster:






So, the Doopy kit comes with the folding stock that I plan to use, so I will have to cut the old one off. The problem here is that it weakens the structure of the barrel, so I don't think I will be drilling the required barrel holes for EIB.


Another problem is getting the Hengstler counter mounted to the blaster in a way that allows me to access the battery compartment. Magnets have been suggested, but I may have another idea… we'll see.

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Doopy-Doos has arrived!


I cut off the mag in anticipation, as I knew it would need to be removed anyway. I used a box-cutter, but I wouldn't do that again. The Dremel is your friend here.







I began fitting the doopy piece on the existing mag housing by cutting away… fitting… cutting away… fitting…







It ended up fitting tightly once I notched out the resin part towards the back. I can hold the blaster sideways and it won't fall out.







Test fitting the power cylinders. It covers the seam on top nicely, but the front has a bit of a "step" to it where it meets the body.










So, the Hengstler counter has some notches that look a little weird on the Disney blaster, but I might be able to use some green stuff to rebuild the edge. Is that the best course of action or is there something else that might be better suited?



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Some more photos for you after/during painting:





I screwed up a little bit, as the raised strip on the bolt had the wrong angle. It has since been fixed. I used a piece of coated card stock to get the multi-level look. It was easy to cut, and since it is coated, may resist the elements a little better. I hope that won't make much of a difference, since it has been painted.








It still looks a bit rough, but once I start sanding everything it should look nice. I'm using Testors model paints and this particular color is "Metallic Silver." I mixed in a little flat black for the gunmetal color.


For the counter, I was experimenting with some brass accents so it looks like the metal is showing through behind the paint.





I mounted a 3-ring "L" bracket to the side with some E-6000 (forgot to take a pic before painting). 








It allows easy access to the battery compartment and "mode" switch.





I then began drilling the holes for the wires. These will attach to the back of the power cylinders. This way, the Henstler counter will always be attached to the gun. I didn't go for the "telephone wire" look, because there's not too much room, and I didn't want them to bunch up too much. Also, I had some spare wire in my attic that I could use.







Power cylinders painted:








And using the same drilling technique (using my fingers) I added wires:



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My Disney blaster is on its way, so tagged for interest!<br><br>

Curious what the go-to paint is for the main body? Did you just use fine sandpaper for the initial weathering?

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Hey Kman, thanks for watching!


For the blaster body, I started with 300 grit sandpaper and some tack-cloth.The I hit it with a brown Rust-Oleum primer that had a slightly gritty texture to it. I figured that if it naturally weathered through the other 2 layers of paint, you'd eventually get to this "rust" layer before hitting the white plastic. 


Then I sprayed some Krylon "MAXX"silver/metallic, let dry for 24 hrs, and finished it with a flat black Krylon maxx. For the scope, I sprayed the same primer, then added Krylon metallic brass (came in a short can for some reason), then the flat black.


I then sanded it all with a 600 grit paper just to add a slight matte finish, and then took my trusty Testors modeling paints (metallic silver and metallic brass) and dry-brushed some wear-and-tear on the pokey-out parts. I figured I would re-spray everything once I get the seams filled and the doopy parts attached, so I felt like I could go a little further on the weathering and not have to worry about being stuck with it. At the end of this whole process, I would like it to feel "routinely used but well cared for."


Here's the paints:




And some more of the build:


Yep, tried to cut the stock off with a boxcutter… was just as bad an idea as the first time. Got some tin snips instead.





Hacked it to bits and immediately painted it (I'll take care of the muzzle when the shapeways box gets here).







I left a bit of a flange towards the back to give the doopy stock something to grab onto when it's glued. Amazingly, the resin stock fits perfectly over it, and it leaves a nice little cavity in which I can put a metallic tube for added realism. Still debating on drilling those holes in the barrel Scott! I reckon I have until I seal it together to make a decision.




The doopy stock was quite a bit taller than the moulded one, so I had to CAREFULLY strip the entire length of the rail at a very shallow angle. I plan on getting a belt sander for my armor build, but I do not have it yet… would have been perfect for this job, but I used the boxcutter to shave it down to fit.







I used the biggest drill bit I had to make the holes on the underside. I started with an Xact-o knife, twisting it around to create a very small guide hole in the exact center. Then, I used a medium sized bit to make a bigger guide hole, and finally the correct size bit on low-ish power to get it to the final diameter.





I was thinking about what I could use as a metallic rod to go behind the holes, and on a whim, I test-fitted a regular Bic pen that I had laying in a drawer. Fit like a glove.









I painted the stock, T-tracks, scope end, (Testors flat black) and the pen body (silver metallic) because seeing all of that unfinished resin was driving me crazy.





Test fitting the new pieces… I'm also testing out a number graphic for the counter. After measuring the area, I printed the numbers onto card stock, laminated it and trimmed to fit. I used Simpixels' graphic that was kindly posted here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27587-fonts-for-counter/


They might be a bit big at the size I printed them, so I used tape instead of glue for easy removal.





Once the stock was all drilled, painted, and fitted, I noticed an annoying gap. Maybe E6K will cover it, but it dries clear. I have an idea.





Card stock again. Cut to sit inside the gap, I bent it in a "U" shape and painted the bottom part metallic silver and the top black. I re-bent the piece and then laminated it, sanded the black area, then painted it flat black. 







The silver paint on the pen barrel was scratched easily, and this piece was already going to be in there, why not make it serve double-duty as a gap filler and the metallic rod?









Finally, I turned my sights to the scope. No boxcutter this time, only Dremel.







Thankfully, the doopy lens housing fits PERFECTLY onto the disney scope, once you remove a pesky structural pin inside.









A little paint…





Putting the whole ensemble together. I attached the wires, glued the power cylinders, and mounted the scope. It's starting to look like an E-11!









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Thanks for the kind words, they are much appreciated. Your post was one of the reasons I went with this blaster over the Hasbro.


I was also noticing the lack of completed DISN-E-11's. Have they been out long? BTW, the Shapeways parts arrived so I will have some more photos up soon.


(And yes! the fit is just spot-on in most cases.)

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Again, big shoutout to CFP214 for putting his models up for all of us to use. The parts arrived safely and look great!









I ordered a butt cap, front sight, ejector port guard, D-ring holder, D-ring, and muzzle. I thought I had ordered the rear sight, but I went back and checked my order and realized that no… I totally forgot. Well, dangit. I won't be able to seal it up until I can fit the rear sight because the gun has to be taken apart in order for the little tabs to fit in correctly.





One of the biggest differences between the Hasbro and Disney blasters is the diameter of the barrel, and it's very apparent with a comparison of the two muzzles below.





Here's a comparison of the 3D printed D-ring assembly alongside their resin/metal Doopy-Doos counterparts:




The doopy part has a tiny bit of material in the middle of the housing channel. this prevents the D-ring from sliding too much to the left or the right. the 3D printed one just has a clear channel so the D-ring can slide further.


I went with that and the metal D-ring for added realism. I was thinking that it would weather "correctly" if I just put one coat of black and let it do it's thing. It is heavier, and therefore louder, so that could potentially be a problem. Has anyone glued the ring down?





Front sight. I think it looks great, but am currently trying to figure out what I'm going to use for the pin. 







Test fitting the muzzle.







Painted the inside of the channel and the hard-to-reach-once-they-are-glued parts. Don't worry, I always scrape the paint from surfaces that are going to be glued.





First coat of flat black. This material really soaks the paint, and has a fine, grainy texture. I will do a thorough sanding and spray it with the same finish combination as the body before attaching it permanently. 





Time to break out the Dremel…










Not gluing anything yet because that needs to happen after the whole thing is sealed up. Also, I apparently missed a spot!



I had some very thin metal strips laying around, so I had a thought that I would see if I could improve the rail without having to get a piece cut for me.






It would sit flatter once glued, but it needs support. That means I can either keep the chunk of plastic underneath, or trim the plastic off, and figure out how to fill that huge gap in the pipe that it would create. I guess I would use green stuff? I would also have to get a thicker piece of metal cut, as I do not have the tools to do it myself.


I should have more progress pics soon.

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Yeah, I can see how the smaller size would be an issue. Glad you're enjoying it!



Drilled the stock out a bit more, and decided to put the extra piece of material in there.





Although you can't really tell from this photo, I put in a piece of (surprise) laminated cardstock in there.





And once installed…





The green stuff got here in the mail because as far as I know, I can't get it locally. I can't start sealing the body halves together until the shapeways rear sight gets here, but I can begin to even out the bottom of the counter.







Gotta have some water so it doesn't stick to everything…





Knead it together until it is fairly uniform in color and start building up inside the gap.







I kept building up the layers with small chunks.





The back isn't pretty, but I guess that's ok.







Test fitting




Gotta wait 24 hours before I can sand flat and paint.

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I painted the front sight and used some leftover plastic to simulate the sight pin.






Done. Now all I have to do is paint and attach to the barrel.



I wanted the blaster to have some weight to it, so I filled the nooks and crannies with some run-of -the-mill Crayola modeling clay.






Overall, it feels a lot heavier, but not too hefty. I like it.



So I didn't take any photos before I added the muzzle screws, but I just went to Home Depot and found the closest match I could find to fit. I then lopped off the threaded posts using a dremel. There were lots of sparks, so I recommend doing that part outdoors.


















The shapeways piece looks great, and the nubs on the screws slot into the divots in the front of the gun. It keeps the muzzle from moving around too much while the glue dries.



I got a present in the mail!





It's a nifty little monocular for bird watching. I plan on using the lenses to make the scope look a little more realistic.





The larger of the 2 lenses is a bit smaller than the false lip on the toy scope. I'm going to try and trim out a perfect circle in the plastic and slide the entire lens housing into the scope so it fits snugly. If I screw it up (very likely), I have a spool from a roll of Scotch tape that I have seen other people on here use to finish off the rough edge.





I started by marking the center of the scope opening. I then used progressively larger drill bits to take out bigger chunks of plastic.





The largest drill bit I had was not quite big enough and I had a few cm of plastic to get rid of, so I enlisted the dremel and a cone-shaped sanding bit. You can see it in the upper right of the photo. Also, be aware that there is another support post in there that needs to be dealt with. I used the same bit to grind it as smooth as possible, so the housing can fit snugly. The hole is looking a little rough, but that can be smoothed out by using the dremel on a low speed.





This is as  far as I dared to go with the power tools so for the rest I hand-sanded the rim and kept test fitting the monocular.










It fits in there quite snugly, and could be handled without glue holding it in place (don't worry I still glued it). I think it really adds to the overall look of the blaster.







I painted the backside of the forward lens black and glued it in place. It looks ok, but it isn't quite as appealing as the rear lens.





I experimented with adding a reticle graphic to the inside, but ultimately decided against it… it was really hard to see anything in there with the tinting on the lens, and it looks pretty cool without it.




Once I get the rear sight, I can begin to glue everything together and put a final coat of paint and weathering. As always thanks for reading! 

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Looks great, gotta love those 'nocs :) BTW there's a rear sight on shapeways that fits into the same spot, but the placement is actually like 2mm from the cap, much further back. Might want to fill the hole with g.s. and find a longer rail. Fun read!

Edited by charlesnarles
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No matter how many reference photos I study, nothing beats learning new things from the people on this forum. I will see what I can do regarding the rear sight assembly, Scott. Never even noticed that before. This might change the way I deal with the entire rear section now. I thought I had ordered the rear sight with my last shapeways shipment, but I guess I just forgot. I should be getting a new one in the mail any day now… In the meantime I get to figure out how to relocate it without losing my mind.


Thanks for the kind words everyone. I'm learning a lot and having you all along for the ride makes it extra special. Cheers!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey greyfox, yeah, the shapeways pieces fit great! The butt cap was a bit tight, but after sanding it was fine. The nozzle and front sight are perfect, and the rear one is great too, but you have to relocate it a bit further back to get it closer to the proper Sterling profile. That is a bit tricky, as you will see.


I also got a blowback guard for the ejection port, but I decided not to use it, for fear of it breaking off during a troop. I ordered a D-ring, but opted to use the metal one that came with the doopy kit. In hindsight, I would have preferred the 3D printed one, as the metal one makes much more noise.

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More progress!


The Shapeways rear sight came in and it looks great.







A Scott kindly pointed out, it needs to be moved towards the rear a bit to look more like the real thing. Let's get to it!





As you can see, there's a nice little holder into which the sight fits. The actual piece has little tabs on the front and back that hold it in place… the rear tab will have to go. I was scared that the dremel would take too much away, so back to the box cutter!





I made the hole larger by cutting straight back from where the sight originally sat. Sand clean and make sure the plastic support structure in the gun is cleared away.





The hole will need to be filled with green stuff.





Green stuff! I filled the screw hole while i had it out.





While I was at it, I glued the stock onto the barrel and filled the gap where it connects to the blaster.





Some sanding will be in order once it dries.





Due to the magic of the internet, the green stuff has hardened! I sanded to match the curvature of the body, and painted.





I opted to keep the plastic support and glue the rail onto it. 







The green stuff on the stock has been sanded and painted.









Next up is a final coat of black, and then I can start weathering the blaster for the last time. Once that happens, I will spray a few clear coats over the whole thing to lock-in all the details. I will go with either a flat or satin finish, but I haven't decided quite yet… got any ideas?

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