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First Timer and Anovos TK Kit


CommanderMax

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I introduced myself earlier today and was advised to start a build thread. I received my big brown box from Anovos yesterday and I'm excited to start my first TK (or any armor) build. I'm currently in the middle of a General Kenobi build, so I don't know how quickly this project will move along. Here are some of the completed Anovos TK helmet for those interested!

 

175bdaf7f1f1b5770d3cd5b2791d1b4b.jpg

84078c67557c0e8f1af6bb4a36ea853f.jpgd49b18b006679a1a25e4573441d13633.jpg03559358eb7278d7af83fa7a8821f297.jpg689c507ecfbf6c3db8e960e5960b1cbc.jpg80f822e5e817f4b67edee032adb1c26d.jpg

 

 

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Very interesting, it seems the airbrush overspray on the teeth resulted in a sharper line on your helmet as opposed to some others I've seen today, which show a little more "fuzzy" transition. I like yours better.

 

Also, I may be wrong about this, but aren't the interior surfaces of the mic tips ideally supposed to be white? Easily remedied.

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Very interesting, it seems the airbrush overspray on the teeth resulted in a sharper line on your helmet as opposed to some others I've seen today, which show a little more "fuzzy" transition. I like yours better.

 

Also, I may be wrong about this, but aren't the interior surfaces of the mic tips ideally supposed to be white? Easily remedied.

Yeah, I also pointed out slightly differences between this bucket and other we could see in other thread (Scott's build). The ear cups seem to have less gap between them and the helmet itself, the ear curve over the tubes appears to have a smoother line and the third screw at the bottom near the rubber is noticeable on both sides. We will have to wait until more people show their helmets to get an idea of the consistency in the anovos assembly process.

The tooth on this is definitely better sprayed.

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Hm.  Are these helmets supposed to be Stunt or Hero?  They installed flat lenses, so I guess they're supposed to be Stunt.

 

Here are some of my observations:

 

 

The traps and ears look to be done well.

 

 

I feel like there's too much plastic around the eyes, though reference photos tend to contradict that.

 

gallery_14191_25_80481.jpg

 

 

The blue stripes should be at most a pencil-width from the cheek.  These are considerably lower.

 

gallery_12157_13_2384034.jpg

 

 

 

The gray on the frown should come to a point, not end abruptly on the fourth tooth.

 

gallery_12157_36_77206.jpg

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Very interesting, it seems the airbrush overspray on the teeth resulted in a sharper line on your helmet as opposed to some others I've seen today, which show a little more "fuzzy" transition. I like yours better.

 

Also, I may be wrong about this, but aren't the interior surfaces of the mic tips ideally supposed to be white? Easily remedied.

I wonder if they refined the technique during production. Same for the ears, so as they do more they get better at it. I'd be very happy if that was my bucket.
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Thanks everybody for the positive feedback so far! There are imperfections, but Anovos made it clear in the beginning there would be. They were aiming for screen-accurate and, frustrating as that may be, for the ANH TK Stunt that means there should be imperfections. Original TK sets of armor were subcontracted out to a local kayak maker (if memory serves) and assembled by people who had no idea the mark they would be making on film history. In that sense, mass producing these and assembling them as a company more accurately reflects the original process as compared to a singular person in pursuit of perfection in their hobby. I think I would like it if left ear fit more flush against the side of the helmet, but I appreciate all of the compliments so far.

 

I believe the interior of the mic tips, behind the mesh, is white. I don't know if that photographed well.

 

The real question for me is this: is the helmet 501st approved as is, and if so, at what level? I think that sort of judgement would help first time builders with Anovos kits to really get a sense of what our builds will entail.

 

 

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Ultimately 501st approval for OT TKs is decided at the local level, with the CRLs and other resources used as tools to help in their decision making. Having said that, if *I* was a GML (Garrison Membership Liaison - the local garrison officer who makes the call) I would reject any helmet that doesn't have the frown corrected to look as it should - especially since it's so easy to do.

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And what should that frown fix be? According to some of the reference pics above, I would think you'd want a tiny gray triangle added at the corner of each side, matched to the gray of the teeth. According to a couple other reference pics above, instead maybe scraping off some of the existing gray (or painting over with white) on the last tooth to narrow it to a point?

 

EDIT: Now that I look more closely, I might add a fake tooth hole by painting a tiny black square after the last tooth hole, followed by some gray

 

It seems like the extra triangle might be the way to go, like this:

 

frown3.jpg

 

The color, according to the ANOVOS instructions, seems to be "Dark Admiral Grey", whatever that is. Does this approach seem the best way to go?

Edited by Astyanax
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I would add the gray triangle as you stated, and I would dab some white paint on the inner teeth to correct for the gray overspray - the gray paint should not touch the inner lips. Both are small things, but once you see them actually applied the difference in appearance will really stand out.

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I was also curious about the Dark Admiral Grey. It seems strangely specific for not including a brand name to go with it. And the grey triangle seems easy enough. I would be hesitant correctly the grey overspray as it is minor, difficult to match texturally to white abs. Also, if you look at screen used stunts, they are a mess!

 

 

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Edited by CommanderMax
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That is what I was hoping would be said! I know it is accurate, but I was wondering.

 

I don't know if anyway has noticed, but there is also a gap between the lens and the eyes, I think it can be adjusted, but doesn't it need to be more permanently affixed then Velcro placement (in other words, water-proof level)

 

 

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