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E-Ren89

Just purchased this do-it-yourself 3-D printed kit. Thoughts?

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It's not a bad attempt. The main issue I have with it are the holes in the trigger,  the charging handle channel behind the ejection port is way too wide, and the spring is way too thick. I would just get a different main receiver tube and some templates and re-make the tube and use the other parts. 

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I did and returned it... it's NOT accurate at all and very rough. Looks better in the photos. my 2 cents

Edited by cjdesign

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I have it and am working on it. It's OK for the basic look without getting into the nuances of the real prop.<br><br>

It is super light though... But probably not sturdy enough for those who troop alot. <br><br>

For me its only going to sit in my display case and maybe get used for a troop once a year.

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I have it and am working on it. It's OK for the basic look without getting into the nuances of the real prop.<br><br>

It is super light though... But probably not sturdy enough for those who troop alot. <br><br>

For me its only going to sit in my display case and maybe get used for a troop once a year.

Super light and brittle. Not as sturdy as described - Drop it once and it's dust.

Definitely not the MOST accurate blaster on the market as stated in his auction title - that's why I returned.  The seller came unglued and called me every word in the book and at one point told me the sterling plans were wrong? It's obviously his "baby" and he doesn't like criticism.

Edited by cjdesign

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I agree. Super light and brittle. Not as sturdy as described - Drop it once and it's dust.

Definitely not the MOST accurate blaster on the market as stated in his auction title - that's why I returned. The seller came unglued and called me every word in the book. :angry:

I wondered about that 100% customer feedback. Thanks for sharing that info! The seller probably got mad cause you're in the know and not just some run of the mill customer - aka "Busted by a veteran".

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Well since I already ordered it and I should have it by Monday, hopefully I will not have to return it and will be able to figure out a way to convert it to a worth keeping condition something that isn't so fragile. This is my first trooper kit I'm working on so I will eventually get a better quality blaster later down the road but I just want a prop for now and hopefully this won't be too much of a disappointment. Hell maybe I can even make a cast of it somehow. Thanks for your thoughts

Edited by E-Ren89
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You could download the same files for free on-line.

It's not bad but some points need to be resculpted, specially the grip.

The price is ok for all that stuff but you have to know that's not 100% accurate

 

 

Da Tapatalk

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The seller is using a model somebody else came up with. It is not their own design. I looked at the 3d model this seller is using and decided to start from scratch.

 

I am working on drawing accurate parts for 3d printing to use with 1.25" PVC pipe and scale 1.5" pipe to make a E-11 Blaster. I own a Sterling L2A3 parts kit I am using along with a Hengstler counter and original M38A2 scope. I designed the M38 scope to be like the ones used in the movies by removing the flat groove to allow for the light to be clipped on. I have a pair of digital calipers that I use for measurements.

 

The files are available for free with a link in this post: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31703-e-11-blaster-3d-printed-parts .

 

3d printers all print a little differently. Some parts may need to be scaled up or down to fit or will require some work to make them fit better. Some holes may have to be drilled a little larger. My Printrbot Simple 2014 tends to print holes smaller than designed. I print the main parts and then adjust the scaling of the print up or down to make the parts fit. I measure parts and alignment pins with then drill out the mating holes to fit the size of the pin. Like other kits it requires some work to make the parts fit just right.

 

3d printed parts require some work to get rid of the printing lines. You can do a lot of filling and sanding or you can use filler/primer and sanding to make them smooth.

 

I am currently working on the trigger group that would allow for a switch to be used with a sound board.

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Well since I already ordered it and I should have it by Monday, hopefully I will not have to return it and will be able to figure out a way to convert it to a worth keeping condition something that isn't so fragile. This is my first trooper kit I'm working on so I will eventually get a better quality blaster later down the road but I just want a prop for now and hopefully this won't be too much of a disappointment. Hell maybe I can even make a cast of it somehow. Thanks for your thoughts

Anything is possible to convert to suit the purpose - that's what the FISD teaches best. So nothing to worry about - ultimately it just has to meet your standard and if you want it for 501st standard you just have to modify it to the level you want.

 

There is a ton of great threads on people converting rubies E-11 blasters to suit the purpose as well as different materials to reinforce them.

 

There's also many veteran suppliers of accurate parts, templates, and as always help here.

 

Hope all goes well!

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So I just got the kit in the mail today. I am trying to think of anyway I can properly reinforce the durability I am thinking maybe coat the insides slushed with rondo? If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears. Definitely going to look for a metal spring to replace the printed one and once I get home from work to take a better look at the pieces I will figure out what else I can do to replace any parts for better quality. Going to run to Home Depot to find the proper glue and such. I have an airbrush my uncle gave me that I have not used yet so I am considering using that to paint it with<br><br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://s1.postimg.org/xyke05e2n/image.jpg'>http://s1.postimg.org/xyke05e2n/image.jpg</a>

Edited by E-Ren89

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I used this plastic tube I had laying around and inserted it into inner barrel. I don't know what the tube is from though. I put some CA glue in the barrel an slid in the tube.

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I have to measure out the sizing of these parts so hopefully I will be able to find tubes that slip right in like a glove because that sounds like a good idea

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I just finished mine.  It's an easy build but the key is sanding, sanding, sanding.  I could have spent even more time sanding and prepping the surfaces.  It looks good enough for my use, which is 99% on display and 1% for Halloween.  I also wanted a blaster that was complete with all parts needed and I liked that it came from the USA.  Youtube videos made assembly easy.  I am considering getting another kit to customize.  Should be easy enough to add lights and sound, a better spring and narrow the bolt cocking channel to a more screen accurate size.  I do realize it is large but it shows off the working parts so I'm not going to complain.  The kids love it.  Nice that it came with a display stand.  The bolt cycles, trigger works, safety switch works, ammo/power pack is removable and folding stock works.  I'll be adding plastic lenses to the scope with a custom decal found on the forums.  That should complete it and all for $150 bucks...I'm happy.

 

Below: Raw Parts for inventory.  All there!  Parts come in bags with an inventory list.  Instructions are online via Dropbox or just watch the 6 short YouTube videos.

 

DSC00195_zpszaadoaiy.jpg

 

After a few days of assembly (after the kids went to bed) and a lot of sanding, spray painting was next.  Undercoat of silver, 3 coats of black.  Weathered it a bit.

 

IMG_4306_zpsqpwkgv1g.jpg

 

Opposite Side View

 

Yes, the slot is too wide for the bolt handle and the spring is too thick.  I thought about modifying it it but just didn't...please don't tell me it isn't screen accurate...I already know.

 

IMG_4305_zps9ggpnueb.jpg

 

Top View

 

IMG_4309_zpsp4l5nzgf.jpg

 

Business end...PEW PEW!!!

 

IMG_4307_zpskudfirru.jpg

 

Hey, that's the number on my luggage!!!  (It must mean something....some kind of reference.... :)

 

IMG_4308_zpsswfatvzu.jpg

 

Folding Stock functions as advertised

 

IMG_4311_zpsbeoazuvw.jpg

 

Was it worth it?  Yes, I think so.  Is it a good blaster for trooping?  I haven't trooped so I don't really know.  It's ABS 3D printed, so I wouldn't recommend letting anyone else carry it (sorry, kid...it's against Imperial regulations to hand over my blaster) and I'd have to form the Anovos holster to fit it better.  Will it work for trooping?  My guess is yes, if you are careful with it.  It's light and comfortable to carry.  But it's not a rubber or metal gun and won't tolerate a lot of abuse.  It can be glued back quickly, so I'd be comfortable trooping with it.  I'm definitely taking it out on Halloween!  If in doubt, buy it for display and get a rubber gun or cheap toy gun for hardcore trooping.

 

I found the seller to be very pleasant.  He followed up with an email which was nice.  He's just a fan who likes to build things in 3D.  I recommend the Hero kit because it includes everything you see above in one package.  Nothing else required.

 

Where to buy?  Search E11 bkaster Hero Kit on Ebay.  Videos on YouTube are by Raymond Hebert, the seller.

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Not too bad overall, apart from the inaccuracies that have already been mentioned. The first 2 things that caught my eye, are fixable if you wish - (1) the positioning of the scope and counter as Chris mentioned above (rear foot should be vertically in line with the folding stock pivot hinge), and (2) the back half of the counter is on upside down. The button should be at the bottom

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/page-5#entry422899

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All fixed.  Good thing about this material is the ability to cut, sand and glue easily.

 

IMG_4315_zps9q4s5c7x.jpg

 

It'll still will undergo more painting and weathering but I'm happy with the results so far.  Again, not bad for $150 and a few hours work.  

 

IMG_4316_zpsckucer36.jpg

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Makes it look more 'balanced' now  :duim:

 

Interesting stand too. Never seen the rear post connect to the grip like that. Looks like it works well

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The gun looks great but that room it's in looks epic. Are those all lego ships in the background and the ceiling looks awesome too!

 

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

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Thanks Jorge.  It's still a work in progress.  I still need carpet and some trim but it's 95% done and functional.  Got the twinkling fiber optic stars and the side and ceiling "windows" are not unintentionally formed like viewports with color-changing lights.  The deal was my wife got 60% of the upstairs for scrapbooking and I got 40%.  All my stuff had to go somewhere and NOT in the main house.  That's a 100" screen for reference.  What you don't see is the LEGO room behind the bookcase that swings out.  There's over 300 Star Wars Lego sets, over 400 books and countless other items.  I blame my father for taking me to see ANH in '77 and the rest is history, as is my disposable income. I won't reveal how much it all cost because my wife doesn't "need to know".

 

IMG_3871_zps8dbmqqg3.jpg

 

IMG_3872_zpsmj8cxvdl.jpg

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Added a window to the Hengstler and a lens with crosshairs to the scope.   I call it done.

 

IMG_4362_zpsmcdmpczr.jpg

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